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At the period of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, some distinguished families settled in Jersey; and in recent years the Associations Law has been the cause of an influx of Religious.

The market-square in which Peirson fought is the centre of gravity of St. Helier. Around it are the parish church, the public library, the court-house, the prison, and the chambers of the principal officials. It is singular that both Jersey and Guernsey should be well equipped with libraries, though the Jersey Library, founded in 1736, by the Rev. Philip Falle, the historian, is only available for the purposes of reference. In an adjoining street is the admirable museum of the Société Jersiaise, which also has a library. The town does not contain many features of particular interest. There are a French quarter and an Irish quarter, which are not very satisfactory, but, taking into account the respective sizes of the towns, St. Helier compares favourably with St. Peter Port in its amount of squalor and dirt. Similarly the higher parts of the town consist of substantial residences occupied by people of culture and leisure.

In recent years the historical instinct of the islanders has been fostered by the admirable work of the Société Jersiaise in preserving ancient ruins, caring for the antiquities in their museum, and publishing in well-edited and printed volumes the records of the island. Chief of the historic features is Mont d'Orgueil Castle, standing forth conspicuously on the eastern side of the island near the village of Gorey which is the centre of the oyster fishery. Some parts of the Castle are undoubtedly very old, dating back it may even be to Roman times.

times. From its battlemented tower may be seen on a clear day the distant shores of Normandy and the cathedral spire of Coutances, of which diocese the island was formerly a part. The untidy appearance of the Castle suggests that its principal use now is as a resort for picnicparties. Its primary claim to recollection is that William Prynne was imprisoned within its walls and commemorated his confinement in a poem.' On June 28th, 1907, the Castle

1 Mount Orgueil, or Divine and Profitable Meditations. By William Prynne, late exile and close prisoner in the seyd castle.

was handed over by the English Government to the care of the States of Jersey.

The eastern side of the island from Mont d'Orgueil Castle and the whole of the south to St. Brelade is low and beautiful; stretches of sand line the coast, with an occasional break of rocks here and there which adds variety for those who are vigorous enough to enjoy it in a ramble along the shore at low tide. For the convenience of the traveller who desires to proceed in a more leisurely manner a railway runs from St. Helier to Corbière Lighthouse, the western extremity of the south side. From that direction it is, perhaps, best to approach St. Brelade's Bay-a most charming spot. As we descend the hill by a winding road which is not much more than a country lane, the Church of St. Brelade, standing in God's acre, with the quaint old Fisherman's Chapel at its side, comes into view with the beautiful bay stretching away in the background. A pitched battle was fought in St. Brelade's Bay between the Royalists and the invading Parliamentarians, when the latter were victorious and, it is said, used the church as a stable for their horses. Large sums, raised by rates, have been spent upon most of the churches in the island, but the restoration of St. Brelade has been effected by voluntary contributions amounting to several thousands of pounds. Opinions may differ as to the treatment of the fabric, but it must be admitted generally that the whole has been effected with loving care in a devotional spirit.

The Church of St. Brelade, in common with other parish churches of the island, was at one period cruciform in character. Formerly the seats were arranged so as to face the altar, which stood in the centre of the church. Among the archaeological treasures of the church are a double piscina, and the font, which is made of two blocks of granite from the island of Chausey ' rudely chamfered: it disappeared from the


· The Chausey Islands lie about twenty-eight miles from Jersey. They are broken masses of granite, and now have very few inhabitants. The pale blue granite, very hard, tough and durable, is not only used in the neighbourhood and at Granville and St. Malo but is carried into the interior of France.

church during the Commonwealth troubles, and was found in some furze bushes about sixty years ago. The restoration included not only the thorough examination of the interior, but also the underpinning of the external walls. In the Fisherman's Chapel, dating from the twelfth century, may be seen still on the walls paintings which are of considerable antiquity. Provision is made for the visitor to be shewn this fabric, and it is to be regretted that some similar arrangement has not been made in respect to St. Apolline's Chapel, in Guernsey, which was consecrated about 1392.

The north, north-east, and north-west sides differ entirely from the remainder of the island of Jersey. The large open bays are replaced by steep cliffs, caverns and a broken coastline. Along this it is practically impossible to walk, but the road so follows above the shore that a good view can be obtained of the several bays-in particular may be mentioned Bouley Bay and Rozel Bay—and a descent may be made to the beach, where the massive rocks rise upon either side like stalwart guardians of the sheltered nook. The island throughout is well wooded and in many parts corresponds more closely to typical English rural scenery than either of the other islands. Fruitful orchards, the produce of which makes excellent cider, intermingle with large fields of tomatoes, which are grown in the open instead of under glass as in Guernsey. Potatoes in their season occupy the ground, and are the reason for a large influx of Frenchmen. Scattered here and there is green pasture-land, providing food for the gentle, closely tethered Jersey cows which rival the breeds of Alderney and Guernsey in richness of milk and sweetness of flesh. Farmhouses and cottages bear over the doorway the quaint device of two hearts symbolizing the union of the first two occupants, whose initials are given, with the date when they entered into the holy estate of matrimony. The larger houses have their carefully laid-out gardens, while the

· Particulars of the restoration between the years 1895 and 1900 were communicated to the Société Jersiaise by the Rector, the Rev.J. A. Balleine, and have been published in separate form. Details of the restoration of St. Saviour's Church have also been printed in the Proceedings of the Society.


smaller are sure to possess a plot of tall Jersey cabbages suitable only for the food of animals, and to either the greenhouse is considered to be an indispensable adjunct.

So far, then, as natural beauty is concerned, Sark possesses the chief attraction for a holiday, and Jersey combines other interests with charming scenery only one degree less beautiful, while a few days may be spent pleasantly in Guernsey on the way to either. But a Churchman planning a holiday may be expected to take into consideration more than the adequate provision of crcature comforts, or even the opportunities for the cultivation of the higher emotions afforded by reposeful and beautiful surroundings.

One of our Bishops is reported to have described recently with gentle satire the expectation of the average English tourist to find 'sung Mattins at eleven' provided for him in his own language, wherever he is, even at the top of the Alps. And as an Australian friend has reminded us with some bitterness, in speaking of the English colonist, he assumes as a rule that the provision of the Church's ministrations will be made by some mysterious means without cost to himself. Visitors to Sark have not been unmindful of their obligations to support the ministry, but the Englishman who is unable to take part in a service in French will find himself at a disadvantage there. The church is a modern erection, small and unbeautiful, very different from the ancient churches of Jersey and Guernsey. In Guernsey opportunities for public worship, both on Sundays and week-days, and for the weekly reception of the Holy Communion, will be found in St. Peter Port and in some of the country parishes, and the same can be said, with additional reason, of the town of St. Helier and the island of Jersey. In St. Peter Port, it should be added, Sunday is maintained as a day of restthe cessation of the electric trams particularly being noticeable. For the Churchman seeking a combination of Church privileges with beautiful scenery, St. Brelade's Bay is almost an ideal choice.

Within recent years there has been a wonderful awakening of Church life in both islands. The Canons require that the Dean of Jersey shall hold a Visitation every two years. This had not been done for a considerable period until the Dean made his inquiries through the twelve ancient parishes last year, with due regard to the varying circumstances of each, but determined to stimulate Church life. In the States an enactment has been passed to abolish the sale of pews, whereby people who had no other interest in the church were able to realize substantial sums from this proprietary right. Under the new law the ownership may pass by descent, but may not be transferred for any monetary consideration.

Yet whatever reforms may be effected, the Church cannot occupy its rightful place in the life of the people, until it enjoys at least the same measure of spiritual autonomy as, shall we say, the Isle of Man. The Church of the islands would retain its connexion with the See of Canterbury just as the civil Government retains its allegiance to the Crown, but it needs a complete system of government just as much as the State. A parallel in civil affairs to the present system of Church government would be afforded if the Officer Commanding at Aldershot were to attempt also to fill the offices of Lieutenant-Governor of Jersey and Lieutenant-Governor of Guernsey. There are all the features, including many that are unsatisfactory, which are familiar in English Church life. For example, Mattins is the chief service of the day, whereas there would seem to be no reason why, especially in Guernsey, a choral celebration of the Holy Eucharist at 9 or 9.30 A.M. should not become the people's own service. The religious life of the islands has had a chequered

At one time they were attached to the See of Coutances. Then for a period in the sixteenth century the predominating religious influence was Presbyterian, but that was absorbed by the Church of England, so that dissent was unknown. There was nothing about the Church to wound the susceptibilities of the Presbyterian islanders, since it came to them in the form of a non-episcopal body. Although nominally attached to the See of Winchester, no Bishop of the English Church is believed to have visited the


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