splendid race of Indians; and eight or ten girls and women whom I saw bathing, were so beautiful, that, gentleman as I profess to be, I could not turn my head and look the other way; poor Actæon, cruel Diana! I thought, as I impatiently gave old Monterey the spur and dashed on to overtake my party.

The Tomochi runs through miles of sandstone worn into cliffs and fissures, some most picturesque, and by their eccentric forms exciting our admiration at every turn. The beautiful eddies and deep holes in this clear river gave us hopes of fish; but we saw none, except a few very little trout and "suckers." In seven miles we crossed and re-crossed this stream twenty-two times, and at four o'clock camped on its banks in "a bottom" of pines and sparse grass. I saw a Steller's jay and a new fox squirrel; a magnificent black hawk flew over us, but out of shot.

At the foot of some long hills we came to a plain a few miles in width, where we looked in vain for wood enough to make our fires, but finding none, rode on. Our customary shower was later than usual this day, but when it did come it was with a vengeance; neither poncho nor blanket was of any avail in keeping off the rain, driven by the hurricane which accompanied it, and its conclusion was a hail-storm of such force and violence that it drove our mules at full gallop, packs and all, over the plain, seeking for shelter. In vain we tried to guide or check them; it was a regular stampede, but in half an hour, the sun again was seen through the mists and dark clouds of the west, and we came to a halt in one of the magnificent lonely valleys of the Cordilleras.

That half the world should starve for want of land, even poor land, and that more than France, England, and all the densely populated part of Europe could cultivate, here in this beautiful country, feeds perhaps only a deer to every thousand acres, is to be lamented.

Fourth of July! daylight, calm, misty, and silent, stole on our

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morning watch and seemed a time for thanksgiving, such as the day called forth. The sun threw its red light over all we saw to the west, but was hidden by the eastern range of mountains we had passed, till, mastering at an effort as it seemed, the highest ridge which shut out its warmth from us, it burst forth in all its splendour.

Down at the bottom of my saddle-bags rolled in a pockethandkerchief was a flag given me by Hamilton Boden, and by the time the haze was gone, it floated in the morning breeze, from the top of the highest tree near our camp; nature was all in a smile, the delicate clouds of morning, sent their shadows to add brilliancy to the light on hill and dale and distant mountain, and birds sang all around us; some of us slept or basked in indolence, some started off with rifle or shot gun, for large or small game, and others who had suffered most from our last night's shower looked to their goods; wet saddle-bags were emptied, blankets spread to receive their contents, guns and pistols loitered over, as their owners cleaned and reloaded them; all was indolence; and a luxury of rest reigned so completely over our whole camp, that I, for the first time, unpacked my lead pencils and paper, and made the sketch I now give you of our "Fourth of July camp." Nature's creatures could not but say, thank God we are allowed to live, and to enjoy all these beauties, wonders and mercies.

Wild cattle were abundant in large herds on the hill sides, in sight, and noon saw our camp in possession of a fine two-year-old heifer, shot by Rhoades; steaks broiled and fried, ribs roasted, and brains stewed in the skull, just sprinkled with salt and a pinch of black pepper, are delicacies, under such circumstances, unequalled by the cuisine of even the palace. A few minutes after this dainty meal, Lieutenant Browning, Simson, Henry Mallory, and myself, were invited by mess No. 1 (Haven, Sloat, Hinckley and Valentine,) to their tent, and saw there a lump of sugar, a very small lump of citric acid, (not stolen, from the medicine chest,) and a

bottle of brandy. No little party of eight, ever toasted more heartily, "The day we celebrate;" more solemnly "The immortal Washington;" or became more poetic than we, as we looked out on the luxuriant and picturesque hills before us.

When evening came, No. 4 sang some beautiful choruses from operas, kindred tastes brought the men together; as night lent its solemn quiet, and when, as the moon glided its ordained course, "Old Hundred" was sung, the situation was so wild, and man's soul so prepared for worship, that the most solemn feelings of reverence and adoration were felt on this lone prairie, as we gave thanks for the blessings this day had given to half the world.

The duty of our camp, like that of a ship at sea, is done by all in turn; watches of two hours instead of four being the only change, so we each stood guard two hours earlier every succeeding watch; my guard to-night was from two till four. After calling the relief of the guard on duty and the roll of the one dismissed, all is quiet--not a sound disturbs the silent scene; the mules and horses staked out a few feet from our line, are at rest; crossing from guard to guard through the camp by your sleeping companions as they lie on their blankets, the pale moon with its marked shadows, gives almost the semblance of death, and looking up at the grand solemnity of these incomparably glorious skies, without a cloud to interrupt their vastness, if man has a soul, then it wakes within him, and in the rapture of his feelings of romance and astonishment at the effect produced on him, he laments the want of Bryant's poetic truth to describe them; the fatigues of his journey are almost forgotten, as the morning star, from behind the rugged outline of our horizon unexpectedly, like a meteor, rises to become more delicate and attractive as it ascends, till day-light fairly breaking, the cry of "rouse out, muster, four o'clock," breaks the trance one is inclined to fall into, and the bustle of camp, and labour of another long day of travel begins.