The general colour of the surface is that of cinders. But providence, when it pleases, as I have often observed, knows how to render the most dreadful objects agreeable to the eye. The lava, in some parts, is decorated with azure, ultramarine, yellow, and orange colour specks or streaks. Large blocks of granite, owing to the vehemence and action of the fire are seen twisted and curling at their extremities, like the acanthus, or the leaves of the palm tree The volcanic matter, chilled on the rocks over which it has flowed, forms here and there, vases, chandeliers, ribbons, &c. sometimes it assumes the figures of plants or of animals, and imitates the variegated designs which constitute the beauty of an agate. I have observed on a bluishcoloured rock a swan of white lava, so well modeled that you would have sworn you saw that beautiful bird asleep, on his smooth watery bed, with his head concealed under his wing, and his long neck extended over his back like a roll of white silk.

Ad vada Meandri concinit albus olor. Here I observe again the unvarying silence which I have formerly noticed, at noon, in the forests of America, when holding my breath, I could only hear the pulsation of the arteries in my temples, and the beating of my heart. However, sudden gusts of wind, occasionally blowing from the summit of the cone to the bottom of the crater, roar within my garments, or keep whistling along my stick: I likewise hear some stones rolling, which my guide displaces with his feet while climbing amidst the ashes. A confused reverberation of the sound not unlike that produced by the vibrations of metal or of glass, prolongs the noise occasioned by the fall, and suddenly ceases. Now, compare this deadly silence to the dreadful detonations which shake these very same parts when the volcano vomits forth fire from within its entrails, and overspreads the land with darkness.

What a favourable opportunity for making reflections, truly philosophical, and, if inclined so to do, to lament over the vicissitudes of human institutions! But what are the so famous revolutions of empires, in comparicon to these convulsions of the natural system, which change the face of the earth, and ocean! Happy indeed were it if men were not employed in tormenting one another the few moments they are allowed to spend together! But Vesuvius has never laid open its abysses, not once, to devour cities, without its fury having surprised the divers nations

in tears. Which were the first signs of civilization, the first proofs of men having formerly inhabited those parts, that were discovered, so late as our time, under the extinguished ashes of the volcano? Instruments of torture, and skeletons loaded with chains! *

Times vary, and the destinies of men dis play the same inconstancy. "Life," says the Greek poet, "glides away like the wheels 66 of a chariot."

Τροχὸς ἅρματος γὰρ οἷα
Βίοτος τρέχει κυλιθείς.

Pliny lost his life for indulging the curiosity of viewing from a distance the volcano in the crater of which I am now seated very quietly! I behold the abyss smoaking all around me. Moreover, I am aware that at a few fathoms lower down, there is an abyss of fire under my feet; I reflect that the volcano might open on a sudden, and blow me up into the air with those mutilated huge blocks of marble.

What providence has brought me here? By what unforeseen event have the tempests of the American ocean driven me to the Lavinian fields? Lavinaque venit littora. I cannot forbear casting a retrograde look on the troubles of this life, in which, according to St. Augustin, " things are replete with mi

sery, and hope is void of happiness."-Rem plenam miserie, spem beatitudinis inanem.— Born on the rocks of Armorica,† the first sound that struck ny infant ear, was that of the bellowing waves; and on how many shores have I seen those same waves break, which I here meet again! Who would have told me, some years ago, that I should hear the roaring of those same waves at the tombs of Scipio and of Virgil, which flowed at my feet on the coast of England, or on the shore of Canada! My name was already known in the hut of the Indian of Florida. The hermit of Vesuvius has it now in his book. When shall I lay down my staff and travelling cloak at the gates of our family hall ?

O patria! o divum domus Ilium! How do I envy the fate of those who have never left their country, and have no adven tures to relate to any one!

CHATEAUBRIAND,

Antient Greece, he is visiting the sites of those cities and places immortalised by events of which they have been the scenes. In the mean time, he continues his correspondence with his friends; and we may expect from him letters dated at Athens, Thebes, Constantinople, the plains of Troy, &c.

TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT

OF PAPENBURG.

It is sufficiently remarkable that his Majesty should have issued a state paper, being instructions to his cruizers, which has been published in the Gazette, in favour of the vessels of a town, which is not even marked on our maps of Germany, and is barely mentioned, if at all, in geographical works: we, therefore, are happy in being able to communicate a description of Papenburg, a district so favoured, yet so obscure. It is translated from the German, by a highly respected friend to our work.

This town is situated in Westphalia, on the confines of East Friesland, in the balliage of Zeppen. It is divided into two parishes: and its commerce in the Baltic is considerable.

Papenburg, within these few years, sends more ships through the Sound and the Holstein canal, than many great commercial nations. In 1796, the number amounted to 232; in the year following to 261; of which 172 passed through the sound, and 89 through the canal. Nevertheless, most geographers know it only by name, and many even doubt its existence.

Papenburg gives the title of a free baronetcy to the family of Landberg-Veelen. About 124 years ago, the country was nothing but a boundless marshy desert. Except an old dilapidated castle, and a couple of huts, there were no traces of human industry. About the year 1675, one of the noble predecessors of the present possessor, determined to convert that extensive waste into a free colony. For this purpose a navigable canal was cut from the river Ems, which is at no great distance. Many colonists soon settled on its banks; as the digging of peat, the building of ships, and the cultivation of the soil, procured them a sufficient and permanent maintenance. By degrees the canals were increased, and thus the colony has flourished to its present size and state.

The grand canal falls into the Ems by means of the Drosten sluice, which has been built in a dyke at the expence of from 20 to 22,000 Dutch guilders. All the superfluous water of the other canals flows into this and every vessel is obliged to pass through this sluice. From thence runs another canal in a S. E. direction, to the distance of

2,200 paces, to the N. extremity of the colony, and receives in its passage the Dewer, a small stream that flows

from the S. W. At the beginning of the colony a short cut about 500 feet long, runs in a similar direction; over this a bridge is built. But the great canal inclines here to the S. and runs beyond the church to the distance of 1,500 paces, and has a bridge over it. From thence it continues in a S. E. direction about 1,700 paces, where the first caissons are. Then it runs E. 1,100 paces ; then S. E. 2,300 p., where are two caissons and a bridge. Then again S. about 6,000 p. nearly to the Great Lake, which partly supplies it with water. The whole length of the grand canal is about 15,200 paces.

Houses are built on each side of the canals. They are only one story high, in the Dutch style, and generally have a respectable appearance. Besides two churches, and three schools, the present number of houses is 400, and is increasing annually. In 1784, the population, not including the clergy, amounted to 2,114 persons. The number of females exceeds that of males by 36. This perhaps is owing to many young men who go to sea, and do not return. The number of unmarried men (excepting widowers), amounts to 643; that of women (excepting widows), to 628. The entire population included 672 children, under 12 years of age. Upon the whole the births annually exceed the deaths; but there are exceptions in some years when the colony is visited by the small-pox and contagions fevers. Bilious and scarlet fevers, also, are not uncommon, but agues are very rare; a proof that the canals have drained the country very much, and diminished its pestilential evaporations. There is only one surgeon there; and an apothecary at Aschendort, about 3 miles distant.

Though every inhabitant builds as and where he chuses, yet suflicient room for a carriage road, must be left on each side of the canal. As this road is made of the earth thrown out of the canal, and as almost all commodities are conveyed by water, it is in good condition, though not the least attention is paid to it. The walk along the banks is particularly pleasant. We constantly see the peat ships passing; and the noise of axes and hammers resounds on all sides from the numerous dock-yards. The pictoresque appearance is also improved by rows of

trees.

As the welfare of the community depends on the state of the navigable canals, every colonist is bound to keep that part of a canal, which adjoins his piece of ground, clean and of a proper depth. The necessary bridges are repaired by the landlords; but any thing else erected for the convenience of individuals, must be maintained at their own expense.

The digging of peat, the trade connected with it, and the cultivation of the soil, con

F +

stitute the principal part of their commerce. Whoever chuses to take one or more parcels of the heath, must apply to the Bailiffs. Each piece of ground contains 2,000 square rods. After four free years, during which the colonist digs half the canal that belongs to his allotment of ground (the other half must be dug by the opposite colonist), he pays the following duties to the proprietors: for each day's work, that is to say, for every twelve loads of white peat, 16 Dutch sti

vers.

For each day's work of black peat 32 Dutch stivers. But he is allowed a piece of 10 rods in breadth, near the canal, for a road, garden, and court; for the peat dug out of which, he pays no duty.

When the peat is dug out, the land levelled, and rendered capable of cultivation, for the pasturage of cach cow 24 stivers is annually paid. But if the soil is more adapted for corn, cach virdup sown pays the value of a virdup of corn; this is about 2 or 24 guilders.

For a piece of ground, for a house or garden, containing 2000 square rods ; 48 stivers. For a half, 24 stivers. For a quarter, 12 sti

vers.

Besides these private grounds, Papenburg has likewise a common field; for every horse here pastured the owner pays 3 guilders 4 stivers; for a foal 12 stivers; for a cow 48 stivers; and for a heifer, 24 stivers.

Each piece pays a dollar to the priest, and must do two days' manual labour, or one day's horse labour for him.

Besides 100 merchant ships, of which the largest are 130 lasts burden, there are about 70 peat vessels, which carry that commodity to East Friesland, Yeverland, Bremen, Hamburg, the Northern coasts of the Batavian republic, &c. Wherever there is an opportunity, they bring back road-stuff, clay, and manure. A piece of ground thus prepared, whether the stratum of peat is taken off it or not, is capable of bearing corn, vegetables, fruit-trees, &c. Rye, Barley, Buck-wheat, and potatoes, are extensively cultivated. The soil is also well adapted for pasturage; and beautiful fields and meadows of red and white clover, and other good feed for cattle are every where met with. The milk is only used for butter, as cheese, which is much esteemed, is imported from East Friesland.

Papenburg reckons nineteen ship-yards; in which about 60 ships are annually built, most of which are from the Dutch. All new ships, the largest carrying from 120 to 130 lasts, are constructed on the banks of the canals. The oakwood for building comes from the diocese of Münster; the deals are imported from Norway, and the East sea. Foreign captains who wish to build a vessel,

agree for the price according to the cubic measure of the ship, which amounts to 9 or 9 Dutch stivers. The cubic foot of oak, costs from 18 to 20 stivers; masts, &c. are not included. If the vessel is not finished at the time appointed, the builder is bound to pay the captain a ducat for every day over.

Each yard employs from 12 to 15 carpenters, who are chiefly East Frieslanders. Their pay is a Dutch guilder per diem, and three rations of gin. The saw-mills, erected in 1791, are particularly convenient. There are a great many rope-makers, and one sail-maker; the canvas which he uses is Dutch.

Papenburg contains two distilleries, and numerous ale-houses; these brew their own beer. There are four lime-kilns. The turf ships, bring back lime from the islands of East Friesland. There are also two windmills for the use of the colony.

One great advantage attending this place, is, that no handicraft is subject to the least controul. All kinds of industry are protected; and the merchant, mechanic, and manufacturer have no duties to pay.

There are three schools containing nearly 450 scholars, who are educated in the catholic religion, which is the established one.

Information among the common people is not to be expected in Papenburg; and the physiognomy of its inhabitants often betrays their ignorance. The female countenance is coarse and inanimate, and the figure of the women is short and thick. Their dress is frightful; high caps in the shape of an egg, jackets of coarse dark red baize, black stockings, stump shoes, with small buckles; old fashioned car-rings of any metal, a cross on the breast, with a thick coral necklace, constitute their costume the smoke, that constantly fills the houses, and want of cleanliness give them the appearance of gip

sies.

.

The men are much superior. Their features are pleasant, and less harsh. Probably this proceeds from their acquiring some polish during their voyages. Their figure is manly and athletic.

The Papenburgers are much attached to their native place. The annual extension of agriculture, the constant increase of houses, and of inhabitants, with a flourishing commicrce, engage the attention of the colonists, and every period of absence presents them with something new on their return. Each shrub, bush, and tree, planted by himself, or by his ancestors, becomes interesting. For nothing engages us more than the work of our own hands; nothing flatters us more than to be creators. We never hear a colonist mention his residence without enthusiasm.

There are no poisonous serpents here, nor in the neighbourhood, except the coluber berus;

but in the distant high woodlands we meet with the coluber natrix, and the anguis fragilis. The lacerta agilis, and vulgaris, are very common. Among, the birds we see the caprimulgus Europeus. Besides the erica vulgaris, and tetralis, the common heath plants grow there; such as the drosera rotundifolia and longifolia, some vaccinia, &c. The soil of the heath is sandy. The trees, branches, and roots found in and under the strata of peat, are very remarkable. They are of different qualities, and have been buried earlier or later. As many of the roots still remain in their natural positions in the compact sand-stratum, it is a proof that the spot contained trees, and some of them very large, before the formation of peas; and we perceive by many of the roots, that the stems had shot above ground. Violent storms blew them down; as is generally the case in large forests. But as they remained in their places, it is a proof that the neighbourhood at that time was very thinly populated, or that there was a superabundance of wood. The trees are mostly oaks and nadel holz; the alders and birches are of later origin; they have grown on the moor, and afterwards sunk into

it.

Trees in peat and in coal-pits, prove a similar origin. Have not coals frequently a stratum of sandstone under them? Perhaps some centuries hence excellent coals may be found where we now dig peat; and loaded ships now sail over coal-pits in the N. sea, on the N. side of the German islands. Thus mountains change into water, and the sea changes into mountains; perpetual vicissitude yet continued existence appears to operate in the heart of the earth, as among plants and animals; but certainly to a much greater

extent.

From the journal of Messrs. Scetzen and Heinemeyer.

braries in other towns, and endeavoured, to the utmost of his power to make reading an object of desire to the public, by studying and anticipating the general, as well as the individual taste. He traded in books, as a rich English or Dutch merchant does, in the produce of all countries: with intelligence, speculation, and foresight. Formerly, not above 600 copies of Moscow newspapers were sold: Mr. Novikow enriched their contents; to their political information, he added several other departments, and, at length, accompanied them gratis, with a work, which he denominated, the Juvenile Seminary (Dietskoe Utchilishtze) the novelty of subjects, and variety of matters comprised in this appendage, notwithstanding the boyish translation of some pieces, greatly pleased the public. The number of subscribers increased yearly, and in ten years, amounted to 4000. Since the year 1797, the gazettes became important to Russia, by containing the imperial decrees and political intelligence; at present, the sale of Moscow papers amounts to 8000 copies, which though inconsiderable for so extensive a metropolis, is ample, when compared to what it was formerly. In fact, there is scarcely any country, where the number of the inquisitive has increased with such rapidity. It is true, that there are still many gentlemen, in good circumstances, who do not take in the newspapers; but, then a number of merchants and tradesmen delight in perusing them. The poorest among the people subscribe to a reading; and, even those who can neither read nor write, are desirous of knowing how matters go in foreign countries. An acquaintance of mine, seeing several pastry-cooks assembled together, and listening with great attention to the description of an engagement between the French and the Austrians, found, on inquiry, that five of them joined in subscribing for the paper, and that, four not being able to read, the remaining one made out the intelligence as well as he could, and the rest listened to him.

The Russian trade in books, is certainly not equal to that of Germany, France, or England; but what may not time produce, if its progressive increase continues unimpeded? In most provincial towns there are now libraries established: every fair exhibits with other goods, the riches of literature; and on these occasions the Russian women generally furnish themselves with a good stock of books. Traders, or pedlars, formerly travelled from place to place with rings, and ribbons; now they take an assortment of literature; and, though few of them can read, they relate, by way of recommendation, the contents of their romances and comedies, in a manner peculiar to themselves; simple, eccentric and amusing. I know several country gentlemen whose incomes may not exceed 500 roubles per annum :

Not

The reader may wish to know what sort of books are in the greatest demand? I put this question to many of the booksellers, and they replied without hesitation: "romances," this, however, need not excite our wonder. Romance is a species of composition, that is commonly interesting to the greater part of the public; it occupies the mind, and engages the heart, by exhibiting a picture of the world, and of men, like ourselves, in critical and interesting situations, and by describng the most common, but the most powerful passion of love, in its various effects. every one can fancy himself the hero of history; but every one has loved, or wishes to love, and, therefore, in the hero of a romance, speaking the language of his own heart, he traces himself. One tale possesses something to direct a reader's hope; another excites pleasing recollection. In this species of literature, we have more translations than original productions; consequently, foreign authors engross all the glory. Kotzebue is in great vogue; and, as the booksellers of Paris demanded, at one time, Persian letters from all writers, so the Russians, from every translator, and even authors, demand Kotzebue ! nothing but Kotzebue! Romance, fable, tale, good or bad, it matters not, provided the title bears the name of the great Kotzebue.

I do not know what others think, but, as for myself, I am glad, if the people do but read. Romances above mediocrity, or below it, even if destitute of talent, tend, in some measure, to promote civilization. He, who is charmed with Nicanor, the unfortunate gentleman, is one degree lower than the author, on the scale of liberal and mental improvement, and, whatever may be the ideas and expressions of such a work, he will, undoubtedly, learn something from them.

Every pleasing lecture has, more or less, infuence on the understanding, because without this, the heart could not feel, nor imagination conceive. In the very worst romances, or novels, (morals apart) there is a certain degree of logic and rhetoric: he, who has read them, will be able to speak better, and with more connection, than an illiterate boor who never opened a book in his life. Besides, modern romances abound in various kinds of

* A romance by Emon, in the Grecian hero style, which, notwithstanding the slight manner in which it is mentioned here, as a remance, does considerable credit to the Rus-sian literature.-- A Russian original romance of no great merit.

knowledge. An author, to fill up several volumes, is obliged to have recourse to all methods and almost all sciences: now he describes some American island, exhausting Busching; now he explains the nature of plants, and vegetables, consulting Bomare; so that a reader forms some acquaintance not only with geography, but with natural history. I am persuaded that in certain German novels, the new planet, Piazzi, will be more circumstantially described, than in the Petersburgh news-paper. They do not altogether judge rightly, who think romances have a natural tendency to corrupt morals: many of them lead to some moral result. True, the characters are often vicious, even while attractive; but, in what consists that attraction? in some good qualities, with which the author endeavours to colour or abate the blackness of others. What is the kind of romance that pleases most? not excess of guilt, or outrageous violation of moral feeling; but in general affecting appeals to sensibility: tears shed by readers usually flow from sympathy with the good, and tend to nourish that sympathy. The rugged and stubborn soul receives not the gentle impression of affection; nor can it feel interested in the fate of tenderness. Bad men will not read romances. Can an egotist, or the base slave of avarice, fancy himself to be the generous captivating hero of romance? No; he cares not for others. Undoubtedly, romances tend to render the heart and imagination, romantic; but what harm ensues? so much the better for the inhabitants of the iey iron-north. The causes of those evils, of which we hear general complaints, certainly, are not romantic hearts; but those hardened ones which are directly opposite. A romantic heart afflicts itself more than others; doats on its own afflictions, and will not abandon them for all the sottish enjoyments of an egotist. On the whole, it is well that our public reads; although the subjects which it prefers be romances.

[From the "Messenger of Europe:" published at Moscow.]

We shall add a remark or two on the foregoing article. First, the interest attendant on the revolution now spreading in Europe, by exciting universal curiosity, has directed the attention of even the unlearned to the means of gratifying that passion; for such we may safely call it. In consequence, literature has been eager. ly sought after, where formerly its attractions were unknown; and this must eventually contribute to diffuse a knowledge and love of letters throughout no inconsiderable part of the world.

Secondly, the perusal of fictitions narrations, not infrequently issues in a taste for superior productions of literas