its own.

ume inscribed upon it, not a lance or sword without a history of In that collection of iron, England's past glories were told over and over again and yet we were compelled to walk past them without a chance of even looking at some articles and with only a cursory glance at others, which left no impression on the mind except of disgust with the authorities. This is what the tourist gets for his trouble in visiting London Tower.

The next morning was Sunday and our amiable and accomplished friend Mrs. Priaulx, who was the follower of the strange man, who has been styled the Plato of Christianity, Swedenborg, not only invited, but insisted upon our taking a seat in her carriage and going to King's Cross to hear a sermon from Dr. Bayley.Reaching about 10 o'clock the new Jerusalem church, we found it, architecturally, comfortable and commodious. At the East end, beneath the table of mosaic law stands an Altar bearing the sacramental elements, in front of which, to the right and left towers, a brace of imposing pulpits. In looking over the books in Mrs. Priaulx's pew, we found that the new Jerusalem musical arrangements include anthems as well as hymns. This was an agreeable surprise. As the congregation began to assemble, we discovered that the Swedenborgians are by no means a sombre sect, for the lover and his lass were ubiquitous and there was a pleasing absence of the elongated visage. After awhile the fine toned and well played organ piped up, and then from the vestry emerged two figures-one of them Dr. Bayley-the other an assisting high priest of Emanuel Swedenborg. They wore Geneva gowns of pure white, which exhibited in front a plentitude of waistcoat and watch chain. The two white figures ascended the two lofty pulpits. Now commenced the services, which were conducted with irritating slowness; but in mercy this tardy process is relieved by some capital singing. The professional element, one is glad to think, has received the sanction of Swedenborg and his disciples, and we imagine it forms quite as much an attraction as the two gentlemen in the snowy gowns, or the doctrines of Emanuel himself. Of the service as such little need be said. The ritual bears a strong family resemblance to that of the Morovians. The sermon was dull and the subsequent Eucharist was all the most zealous Protestant could desire. The vagaries and visions of the founder of this phase of religion seemed to be judiciously kept in the background, and there was, indeed, little to offend the susceptibilities of the most rigorously orthodox. One of the pastors invited the working men to a meeting in the week in order that a passage in St. Mathew might be explained by a layman in the light of the prophet Swedenborg, but as no workmen were visible to the naked eye in the church, we were not seriously alarmed for

the spiritual safety of the proletariat. Altogether the service was exceedingly pleasant, especially for those who are fond of good music and some parade. More amused than edified by what we had seen, we returned to Cavendish Square and enjoyed a good dinner and long chit chat with our friends.

The following morning we re-entered upon the prosaic duties of our town life at that period.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE ANGLO-NORMAN ISLE OF GUERNSEY,

England affords so many objects of interest worthy of description that a work of the nature of this might easily be made very voluminous. This we do not desire, nor probably the reader. We shall, therefore, close these reminiscences with a concluding chapter, in order to give some very rambling reminiscences of the Island of Guernsey, where annually, for years, we spent much time.

It

This pretty little island lies in a favored archipelago in the bay of Lamanche, or the bay of Mount St. Michel, as the English call it, about 85 miles from and S. E. of Weymouth, on the north west coast of France, at the extremity of Cherbourg point. It is a favorite resort of half pay officers and others of limited income, for the necessaries of life are cheap and the luxuries untaxed. is also much frequented by delicate persons who require a mild winter climate. The gulf stream after leaving America crosses the ocean and expends itself on the shores of Western Europe, to which cause may be attributed the genial climate of the southern counties of England and the Channel Islands. The vast body of tepid water of the gulf stream causes also rapid evaporation and the fogs which hang over this part of the world and which envelope Guernsey with their warm breath, create upon the rocks in the midst of the sea a flora, which the most beautiful islands of the Adriatic and Mediterranean might well envy. The Aloes and

the Camelia spring up in the open air and the Passion flower entwines itself around the largest trees.

In London we formed the acquaintance of several Guernseymen and on reaching St. Peter-port were most cordially welcomed, received, indeed, with that warmth and true politeness which come from the heart. By Col. James Priaulx, of Montville, one of Her Majesty's aid de camps, we were introduced to the Lieutenant Governor, General C. Rochforth Scott, and Sir Stafford Carey, the Bailiff, or Chief Justice of the Court of Com mon Pleas. With both we were much pleased, the General uniting to the qualities of the old soldier the accomplishments of the man of letters,* and the Bailiff, who is a graduate of Oxford and former professor of law in the University of London, adding to a profound knowledge of his profession, elegant scholarship and extensive attainments in several branches of learning. Stafford was a tall, strongly built, erect, handsome man of about 65-with dignified, but affable manners and bearing-moreover, a man enjoying that valuable gift, a presence which is said to have carried more men to fortune than intellect. Subsequently a warm friendship grew up between Sir Stafford and the writer, and he takes a sorrowful pleasure in saying of him here, years after his death, that a more noble, honorable, upright man and judge never lived.

Sir

Such was the beauty of the island as we looked upon it from the deck of the Weymouth steamer which took us to St. Peterport that we lost no time on our arrival in viewing Castle Cornet, the fort, the docks, the light houses, the columns and statues—all the objects of interest in and about St. Peter Port and then in visiting the bays, inlets and commons, going entirely round the island and through the interior to the Parish churches situated near the centre of each parish, and surrounded by a small cluster of houses, stopping to talk to the peasants, entering their houses and examining their farm buildings, their farms, their stock, etc., and returned to the town 'so much delighted that we pronounced. the island a garden, a veritable earthly paradise, where a few weeks before, the fields had been laden with rich harvests and the orchards covered with fruit.

Let us now plunge, without regard to order, after the advice of Horace, into the midst of what we have to say.

Within a few days after our arrival we dined at Haviland Hall, the Governor's residence, and at Candie, that of Sir Stafford Carey, meeting at both places representatives from the leading

*Gen'l Scott is author of a learned work entitled "Rambles in Egypt and Candia." He was an ensign in the British army in 1812 and present at the battle of New Orleans in 1815.

families of the island. This was during the winter, and the winter is the gay season in Guernsey, and if the entertainments are on a smaller scale than those of London, Paris and New York, they are none the less agreeable.

The resources of the island in the way of society are by no means inconsiderable. The native society is quite large and is reinforced by the Garrison officers and their families, and there are always in the island detachments of Royal Engineers, artillery and infantry. The stranger population, composed of those to whom we have referred, is never less than 3,000, many being English families, who have adopted it as a permanent residence, and there are alway's many yatchmen and other pleasure seekers who come here at every season, but more particularly in summer. As all are people of leisure, there is no business but pleasure, and Guernsey is a decidedly gay and festive spot, a little, though a very little, Paris. The usual vices and follies of the great world prevail, but probably in a less degree than in larger communities. However this may be, we shall not declaim against them in bitter or indeed, in any terms, as the Guernsey devotees of fashion are no worse, if no better, than others-than modern society in general -against which it is not our purpose to tilt the lance. As to the customs of good society, it is sufficient to say that they are similar to those which prevail in London and New York rather than in Paris, only slightly modified by ancient isl and customs. The people are, in a general way, very much like other peopleas fond of dancing as the French, of music as the Italians, and of eating as the English. This brings us to remark that as in England and Guernsey, the dinner is the main institution of society, and as it differs a little in the way it is prepared and served from our American dinner, it will not tire our readers if we say a word about it. In the first place, it may be truly said of them that they are exceedingly good and enjoyable and always select as to company. And the company invited must not arrive too soon or too late, but strictly at the hour invited. They are never crowded, and are spiced with the conversation of educated people-experienced and traveled ladies and gentlemen, and men of talent for talking, if such can be secured, which makes them highly grati fying to the mind and senses. It is customary to dine at five o'clock, but dinner parties rarely occur before half past six and sometimes as late as half past eight o'clock. The place of distinction at the table is the seat at the greatest distance from the door at which the food is brought in, and to the right of the lady of the house. This post is usually assigned to the person of highest rank, or stranger guest, but great eminence in talents sets aside distinctions. These rise superior to rules. All the rest take their

places promiscuously, unless, as is often the case, the names of the guests on cards are placed at the seat they are intended to occupy. A servant does the carving for the company. The dinner begins with a light soup; this is followed by fish, potatoes and salad; then follow the entrees, then the roast, then the game, then the pastries and puddings, then cheese, and last the fruits and nuts. With the fish, sauterne and sherry are served, then champagne, hock and claret, and the dinner ends with port, claret and sherry, liqueurs and coffee. No healths are drunk by anybody present. Occasionally, however, a foreigner's health is proposed, when he is expected to make a few remarks. After the ices and dessert have gone round, the ladies retire, when everything is removed but the wine and nuts, over which the gentlemen converse until nine or ten o'clock, when the gentlemen join the ladies in the drawing rooms where such guests as have been invited to an "evening" are assembled, and where whist, music and dancing conclude the entertainment. There is a homely old proverb applicable to these Guernsey dinners-"one may go further and fare worse."

Let us indulge in a few more details. To the after dinner receptions, or "evenings," the lady of the house invites the company. and these parties are usually large and the company somewhat promiscuous, often including, if not all, much the greater part of the hostess' acquaintances-consequently like the garrison and other balls, they are crowded and there is no small amount of cramming, squeezing and struggling, especially around the supper table. These suppers are, by the way, always good, consisting of fowls, game, &c., all kinds of made dishes, including one peculiar to the island, and called pickled ormers.* It is a shell fish, something similar to the oyster, only when cooked in Guernsey, by an ancient chef de cuisine, much better. Everything is washed down with sherry, claret and champagne. Dancing is always going on somewhere, but little else is visible to the on-looker than a writhing mass of humanity. Even in winter, in this mild climate, the heat on these occasions is oppressive, notwithstanding the pains taken to secure good ventilation, and the rapid passing round of ices. Conspicuous at these balls, are, of course, the subalterns in the army and under graduates fresh from the universities, the latter 'painfully neat,' as Hood says, and known among the Lilies of Guernsey, notwithstanding their irresistible garments, as "featherless bipeds." These gallants, who are always at a premium at dances, now and again feather their nests by marrying the island belles, who are generally heiresses and always pretty. *The shells of the ormer are converted into work-boxes and pretty toys of one kind or another.