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now necessarily refused admittance within the walls, and remained at the gates, not knowing where to seek safety.

25th. The Arabs attacked the Mulos, and we could hear and see the fire. St. George and merry England! I was as badly off as Ivanhoe, and had no lovely Rebecca to answer my question, "How speeds the fight?" 26th. The Arabs were repulsed yesterday, and continued their march on Argos. Oh for an English vessel! fettered feet are the worst of ills. Colonel Fabvier went out on a reconnoisance.

27th. The Turkish cavalry rode under the very walls of the town, and captured some camels. A party of about thirty Greeks, chiefly Bulgarians, went out excellently mounted, Kalergi, who was responsible for my appearance, joining them: 1 accompanied him. Taking the lead, with four others, we fell in with a party of about fifty Mamelukes; but, fearing we were supported, as we debouched from behind a hill, they did not charge us; and, after exchanging a few pistol-shots, they retired. On returning, we fell in with our main body, who were also skirmishing with a strong party. My horse was a fine Arab, but very unmanageable. Charging alone, and presenting my pistol, which missed fire, and wheeling à la Turque, he turned restive; which being perceived, the Turks singled me out, and their shots whizzed right and left: some Greeks then coming up, I got off. I strove to the utmost, to make the Greeks form and charge in a body, but in vain; and the Turks charging, drove us back. I turned on one who had advanced before the rest, and who checked his horse till joined by his comrades; and then, being left quite alone, I reined back in my turn, and followed the others. It is impossible to effect any thing with men who will neither follow nor support you. We had only three horses wounded, and no men. It was a pretty sight enough, and the whole town was on the ramparts looking on. On entering the town I found that a massacre of the few remaining prisoners was going on. One poor fellow, who was in the service of a Greek captain, was dragged along the streets just under my windows, followed by a young Cretan soldier; who, on overtaking him, buried his ataghan in his body. The Turk, he said, had exulted at the sight of his countrymen carrying their victories to the walls of Napoli.

20th. The Turks had, to all appearances, evacuated the plain, after setting fire to the town of Argos and the surrounding villages. Our party of cavalry the next day taking the field to reconnoitre, I again joined them, and we advanced towards Argos. Being now well mounted in the plain which opened towards Corinth, I deeply regretted I was prevented, by my parole to Kalergi, from attempting to regain the cave; but I could not break that pledge. Three only of our party rode into Argos with me; and we galloped through the smoking ruins, uncertain whether some detachment of the enemy might not remain there. I recollect a Greek, who had attached himself to me, rode immediately to two different houses, one of which I remembered having been quartered in once with Ulysses. He told me they belonged to him. They were the best in the town, and both were left unpillaged. Ibrahim Pacha, I have heard, had a party in the garrison of Napoli, and expected the gates to be treacherously opened to him. This fellow, it would seem, must have had some understanding with the Pacha. The Turks had all retired on Tripolizza, and we rode back again to Napoli without any encounters.

29th. Captain Hamilton arrived last night in his pinnace, and had a long interview with the Government. The Cambrian came into the bay in the morning; a yacht of Mr. Penley's in company with her. I requested Kalergi to mention that I proposed going on board the frigate to speak to Captain Hamilton: which he did to Mavrocordato, who answered, my affair would be settled the next day. In the evening, Mr. Mason, Mr. Emerson, and one or two other Englishmen, arrived from Hydra, where they had witnessed a horrible massacre of a hundred and fifty Turkish prisoners; and Mr. Emerson and Mr. Tenant resolved on leaving Greece, and afterwards went on board the Cambrian.

30th. "What villainy! Doctor Tyndall has been detained at Corinth, and not allowed to go to the cave." Finding these words noted in my journal, I went to Mavrocordato's house, resolved on seeing him at least. He was not there. He was with the President, and I could not gain access to him. I went instantly on board the Cambrian, no longer considering myself bound by any promise, where they acted with such barefaced treachery. My interview with Captain Hamilton was satisfactory. He talked of sending a surgeon from the ship to Trelawney, if he could possibly arrange it.

July 1. Friday. I find I have accused Mavrocordato wrongfully, in charging him with detaining Tyndall. I received a note from him to-day; wherein it appears he had been detained by contrary winds, and surprised by a party of Turks; having lost his baggage, and being without money, Tyndall gave up going, and went to the island of Cerigo, where my servant, whom I had sent with him, left him and returned to me. So there is no chance of my getting a surgeon here for Trelawney; nor can I get back to the cave, having given my parole not to leave Napoli without leave of the Government; nor could I, indeed, have marched, for my horse had wounded me in the foot at Argos, which rendered me completely lame-though that alone would not have prevented my making the attempt. Finding a soldier going to Roumelia that I could rely on, I wrote Trelawney a hasty note. The Rose sloop of war, commanded by the Hon. Captain Abbot, was to sail the next day for Zante; and I asked for a passage in her, which was accorded me, Mavrocordato telling Captain Hamilton they only wished me to leave the country; which, indeed, I had resolved on doing:-but with the full determination of seizing the first opportunity to return from the Ionian Islands, and rejoin Trelawney, I took leave of Col. Fabvier, whom I left suffering from a severe attack of fever; and I well remember, though unhappily I have been induced to neglect, his admonition, not to publish any thing about Greece; for telling the truth is an unpopular mode of writing: but be it a merit or a demerit, I lay claim to have undeviatingly adhered to it; and what I am now scribbling I do most unwillingly, and worse than Falstaff," by compulsion," though of my own creating.

On going on board, and being again welcomed among my countrymen, the change appeared indeed delightful. It gave me a perfect attack du maladie du pays, to see so many English faces around me, while every thing looked so thoroughly comfortable; and at night I felt quite awed at lying down on the snow-white sheets in the hammock prepared for me, having been so long a stranger to such luxury. On describing Trelawney's wounds to Dr. Porteus, surgeon of the Rose, he pronounced his death would either take place soon after I last left him, or, had he survived to the present time, he would be no longer in such imminent danger; and that the ball remaining without being immediately extracted, would not be of material consequence. The, die then was either cast, or there was no immediate fear for his life. Our first lieutenant, Mr. Gregory, was an intimate friend of Whitcombe and his family, and I gave the most favourable colouring I possibly could to the transaction, which I had not time, indeed, thoroughly to investigate, for I was then inclined to think Whitcombe had not himself fired at Trelawney. After a pleasant sail, we made Zante on the 9th of July, where, taking leave of my kind friends on board, as Captain Abbot was to proceed immediately to Corfu, I again entered the Lazzaretto off Zante, where, three years before, I had, when reduced to the last extremity by a severe fever, nearly finished my career. Captain Maclean and Dr. Porteus, with their usual attention and urbanity, called to make every offer for my accommodation. I wrote to Sir Frederic Adam to request his interference in behalf of Trelawney and Whitcombe, as being two Englishmen; and determined to wait the result.

12th. The resident, Sir Charles Sutton, called with Captain Maclean they had heard from Sir Frederick, who replied he could not officially inter

fere, though he had no objection to any vessel that happened to be near the spot, extricating them. My best plan then will be to apply again to Captain Hamilton. A French merchant of Zante, who had just come from the Turkish camp, and was with me in quarantine, said there was an English doctor whom he expected over from Prevesa, who would, he had no doubt, engage to go to the cave; and as the Turkish fleet, blockading Missolonghi now occupied the Gulf of Lepanto, it was the only remaining chance, unless one of our vessels would undertake to go.

13th. Mr. Manly Power of the 85th, who had been on a cruise with Captain Hamilton, came into quarantine, which made our time pass as pleasantly as a state of forced confinement could allow. Having come to Zante on board a ship of war, the days we passed at sea were counted, and we had only nine days captivity to endure.

There was a captain of a Tribacalo, an adventurous fellow, whom, if I determined on going up the Gulf, I could engage; and I wrote to Captain Maclean, to ask, as I had now left the Greek service, if I was not entitled to a passport, as a trusty, loyal, and well-beloved subject of Great Britain. To redeem my losses, I purposed commencing trader, and forthwith to hire a good ship to go up the Gulf of Lepanto, there to freight what goods might prove most advantageous; for which voyage I requested a passport to pass unmolested through the sublime Sultan's dominions. Captain Maclean answered, he did not think the colonel would feel himself at liberty to give me a passport for those parts; for, as I was so well-known a character, I could not pass without being recognized; but that he would speak to Captain Hamilton, who was then outside the bay, about the cave affair. I also wrote to Colonel Napier, who was known to Trelawney, to request his influence. The most effectual means of accomplishing my object to aid Trelawney, was certainly to get an English vessel to undertake his rescue, though not so perilous and dashing a manner of effecting it, as if, at all hazards, I attempted to accomplish it by myself; but success was too uncertain not to determine me, in common prudence, to wait first the event of what Captain Hamilton might determine to do.

The 21st was the day of our emancipation from quarantine, and, accepting Captain Maclean's offer to take up my quarters with him, I once more entered into civilized society, after so long a period passed in adventurous life. I exchanged my gay Albanian for the demure Franc dress. On the 3d of August, I learnt last, that the Sparrowhawk had gone for Trelawney, and Major Bacon, who had visited the cave soon after I had left it, accompanied them; there was then no longer a doubt of their succeeding. When British tars put their hand to a work, one is sure that what man can do will be done. I was now requested to accompany Captain Demetrius Miaoulis on his mission to England, and I willingly embraced the opportunity of returning so advantageously; and on the 15th, leaving Zante again, to cross over to the Morea, as the admiral's brig Cimone was then lying off Clarenza,—on the 16th we sailed for England, and arrived on the 3d of October at Portsmouth. On Mr. Emerson's and Mr. Tenant's arrival in England, I learnt of Trelawney's safe arrival at Cephalonia. They had been with him on board the Cambrian. Whitcombe is now with Goura, in high favour. I know not whether he finds, like Marmion, that in the hour of battle, "sinful heart makes feeble hand."

1

EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF AN ARCHITECT.

No. II.-Pompeii and Herculaneum.

May 19.-I am almost afraid to grumble at the annoyances I have met with in obtaining permission to draw at Pompeii, Portici, and the Museum in Naples; for I may be told to look at home and say if the facilities are greater, or rather if the obstructions are less, for a student there, than here. Bad is the best, but this is intolerable. Every person wishing to study at either of these places, must first wait on the ambassador of his own nation, and request him to write to an officer of the King's household, who in process of time orders permissions to be sent by the director of the Museum. I can hardly guess how it may be for those who are neglected by their national protector, since we have trouble enough, and lose an immensity of time, and yet receive the kindest and most immediate attention from the representative of our sovereign here. On the 5th instant, Mr. Hamilton first wrote to the Marchese Ruffo for me, and it was not till the afternoon of this day, that got my permissions, having been all the time prohibited the making a single line in the Museum, which contains the beautiful marbles and bronzes taken out of Herculaneum. On the receipt of them (my companion had procured his before my return from Sicily) we left Naples for Pompeii; and at five o'clock this evening reached the Taverna del Lapillo, which is on the high road to Salerno, and only separated from the ruins behind it by the mound of ashes and cinders which serves it for a barrier. Here another trouble presented itself—the only bed-room in the house was occupied by a French student, so that we thought we must find lodgings at Torre dell' Annunziata, two miles off: however, the hayloft presented itself to our view; we had it immediately cleared out, swept, and furnished; and without farther ado, took possession. Fleas we have, of course, in abundance; but we should have had a good stock of them anywhere else, and the difference cannot be much. The room is about seventeen feet by nine; it has one window with cross-wood bars and a shutter on the inside; there is a doorway, but no door; it is a loft, and we reach it from the room below by a maimed ladder. That room, which is the vestibule to our apartinent, is at the same time the bed-room of the young ladies of the host's family, and the residence of a pig. After having settled this great affair, we presented our permissions at the gate of Pompeii, and took a general view of that singular place before sunset, at which time they close the gates.

20. Before breakfast we went over the excavated parts of the city, with the map and guide-book, to inform ourselves of the various parts, before we began to draw. The ordinary entrance is by the Forum Nundinarium, or market-place, commonly called the soldiers' quarters, in the immediate vicinity of which are the Temple of Hercules, with its peribolus, the two Theatres, the Schools, the Temple of Isis, and the Temple of Esculapius. From this cluster, streets are excavated, leading to the Forum, which is surrounded and partially occupied by public buildings. The south end of it is formed by three buildings, probably offices of Government; on the west are the Basilica, the Temple of Venus, and remains, not completely excavated, of public granaries; on the north is the Temple of Jupiter; and on the east the newly-discovered ruin called the Pantheon, the Court of Justice, the Temple of Mercury, and the Portico of Eumachia. Passing out of the Forum, between the Temple of Jupiter and the Pantheon, a short street leads to the Temple of Fortune, from the front of which, by taking a westerly course, you pass the house of Pansa, and get into the principal street leading through the gate towards Herculaneum, and the street of the tombs, leaving to the right and left a large mass of houses and shops which have

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been completely excavated. The Amphitheatre stands alone in the extreme south-east angle of the city.

Pompeii, one of the cities of Campania, on the shores of the gulph of the crater, has acquired posthumous celebrity, which its rank alone could never have procured for it. It existed, comparatively unknown, with a variety of fortune, from its foundation by Hercules, till sixty-three years after Christ, when it was greatly injured by an earthquake. From the effects of this it was fast recovering, when a shower of ashes from Vesuvius, during an eruption in the year 79, almost entirely buried it: one small fragment, like a floating buoy over a foundered wreck, indicated where Pompeii lay. Now and then, during the lapse of more than sixteen centuries, the wonder of a peasant would be excited, by the striking of his mattock against some portion of the skeleton below; but it was not till the year 1748 that the attention of the learned was sufficiently drawn to it, to have regular excavations commenced. Once begun, however, operations have gradually advanced, and well repaid the trouble by the discovery of a Roman city in its pristine state. A more satisfactory mode could not have been devised of letting us into the knowledge of the manners and customs of the ancient masters of the world. Its forum, basilica, temples, theatres, amphitheatre, markets, mansions, shops, and manufactories, are now restored to the light, some more, and others less perfect. It is probable that those of the inhabitants who escaped (certainly a very great majority) excavated after the eruption had ceased, and took away many of their valuables, and in so doing destroyed a great deal by breaking up the roofs, of which, by the way, there are no vestiges in the place. Later eruptions brought the whole to a level, and made the city be completely lost for many ages. Grape vines still trail in rich festoons from poplar to poplar over by far the greatest part of the buried town, and like flowers in the hands of a corpse, look smilingly with death by their

side.

The Bourbon rulers of Naples, from the commencement, carried on the excavations with but little spirit, and it was not till the French became its masters that the place was seriously attended to. Little or nothing again was done, from the time they left, till very lately; now the work proceeds gradually, and every day brings to light something new and valuable. Excavations in several parts of the city bear the names of certain great people, for it is a mode they have of doing honour to any royal or otherwise distinguished visitor, by having a new place opened before them, that they may have the gratification of seeing the articles found as they were when the city foundered; generally the result is a comparative blank, but I believe that some of the most valuable discoveries have been made by these fortuitous hits.

The style of architecture throughout Pompeii is far from being first-rate; and there is an air of littleness in all, that perhaps strikes me the more forcibly, having just returned from Pæstum, where the mind is filled with the grandeur and sublimity of the Temple of Neptune; after that, the prettiness of Pompeii has not the charm it might otherwise possess. The sculptured stuccoes and paintings display a fine taste and an elegant imagination; but they were for the most part the work of Greek artists. The architecture of the buildings, both public and private, is generally in very bad taste, and decidedly Roman; there is much more merit in the general arrangements than in the detail, though good parts are to be found both in the city and among the tombs in the Sepulchral Way beyond the walls. I was much struck with a bas-relief on one of the Sarcophagi in that part, as containing the most beautiful allegory imaginable :-a vessel has finished her voyage; the passenger seated in the stern relinquishes the helm; the attendant genii are

The wall of the larger theatre was never completely covered.

By the chance finding of a bronze figure.

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