PURSUITS OF ARCHITECTURAL INNO- At the entrance into the North aile of VATION, No XCIX. (Continued from p. 524.) (1790.) JOURNEYING on, I paid a vifit to and contains, in the interior, many valuable examples of Saxon architecture, and of the fucceeding flyle, wherein the Pointed Arch manner is brought for ward with much fuccefs. Taking a South exterior view of the building, I found the parts not fo exuberant as ufual on the Yorkshire fabricks; ftill there is much for ftudy. The gateway entering to the South fide of the church, is to be regarded as an object of much importance, and as furch, no doubt, it will ever be confidered. The arch-way is pointed, and fupported by columns; on each fide buttreffes. Above are two conjoined Pointed windows, which have the happieft effect. On each fide, and above thefe windows,. are fmall niches, with flatues. Within the arch-way are two more arch-ways. At Aldborough, near Boroughbridge, much fatisfaction is derived from the fight of the Roman altars and pavements, which are there fo carefully preferved, and, I may fay, almoft adored. If I had thus fpoken of one of our antient Chriflian altars, as being in fuch good fecurity, and fo much bowed down to, furely I had finned; or, at least, thofe who had worshiped them would have finned. con RIPPON Collegiate Church. However the date of the foundation (circa Will. I.) conveys the mind back to fo remote a period, the exte rior decorations feem much later. The towers, forming part of the Weft front, from having been carried up no higher than the roof, reminded me how our Weftminfier Abbey Church appeared, previous to the deformed " geftions" run up by Sir Chriftopher Wren, as we now witnefs. Viewing this Church on the South Eaft, from the variety of breaks, the diverfity of forms in buttreffes, windows, battlements, turrets, &c. every thing takes a picturefque turn. In the South aile of the nave is a plain tomb*; on the end of the flab is an horizontal bafforelievo, a decoration peculiar to this memorial; and prefents a lion in a foreft, where is a kneeling figure, whom the royal animal feems to reverence. * Engraved in "Antient Architecture." the choir, is a beautiful and highlywrought tione pulpit, the form an octagon, each cant filled with compart ments and tracery. What is Gingular, there is no bafe or ftem to the pulpit, the octagon body refting on the pave meut. St. Wilfred's chapel, or "Needle," being the chief attraction of the building to excite the admiration and wonder of firangers, I fhall enter into its particular detail. First, let me obferve, this kind of Church attraction is rather general; as the "whispering gal lery," Gloucetter cathedral; Galilee, Durham cathedral; Edward Confeffor's and Henry VII's chapels, Westminster; lanthern, Ely cathedral: counter-arches in the great tower, Wells cathedral ; the martyrdom, Canterbury cathedral; fpire, Salisbury cathedral, &c. &c. To return to Rippon mintter. On the South fide, and within the great cluf ter of columns of the centre tower, be ing without the Choir, fteps defcend, full Eaft, into an avenue two feet ten inches wide, which, for about ten feet, turns to the North, then turns again to the Eaft for twenty-fix feet; at the end of this part is a fmall opening looking into a receptacle for bones. On the left is the entrance into the Chapel, which chapel is placed directly in the centre of the foundation of the great tower. Di menfions of the Chapel, eleven feet two inches by feven feet nine inches, in height nine feet. The defign is entirely plain, with a femicircular arched head, or cieling, from Welt to Eaft. the South fide a fmall opening com municating with the receptacle for bones, as above. At the Eaft end are remains of an altar, with a holy water niche, on the left fide; and above a ftopped-up window, once receiving light, as being, probably, at the Eaftern extremity of the crypt of the original fabrick. On the North fide is a small opening, one foot wide, called the "needle" Further Weftward, on this fide, is another holy water niche. the Weft fide is a door-way into an avenue, running firft Northward twelve feet, and then, turning, rous to the Eaft fixteen feet. Here is a flight of fteps likewife, which afcends into a fmall chamber on the right hand of the porch of the choir. The fteps and avenue from the nave I take to have been for the ufe of the laity, while the other fleps and avenue from the choir for that of the prielis, &c. The finall On On opening, opening, otherwife the needle, is in view from the latter fteps, and appears to have had no other ule than for thofe who, wauting room in the Chapel, might from that fpot behold the ceremonies at the Altar however, fuch firong hold has Tradition taken here, that I was informed fome very fingular trials had been gone through in this needle. Its profeffed ufe is this; a female being fufpected of unchaftity is drawn into the opening; if he cannot pafs, unhappy is the hour; if the comes through, 'all is well. We make no account for different-fized perfons; the "needle" has its virtues. In proof of all this, I was witness to an ordeal of this kind. While I was making my fketches, fome traveller, from farthest North, came to wonder at the gloomy fcene (I working by candle-light), and my patience in enduring the lengthened hours in fo dreary a cell. After they had liliened with the utmoft furprife to the marvels of the Chapel, one of the gentlemen of the party led a young lady to the ominous" needle," and entreated her to try the touchftone of female honour. After fome preparatory excufes, the blufhing fair put her head into the opening (her friend being in the Choir avenue, on the other fide the opening, in order to affift her efforts); then her body, at laft the literally forced her whole perfon through theneedle," to the inexpreffible joy of him who propofed the trial, and to the great mirth of the by-ftanders. So much for Saint Wilfred's "needle !" In a Chapel under the Chapter-house are depofited many carved boffes, once belonging to the groins of fome deftroyed building. A king feated; holy perfonage feated; bishop feated; king and a biflop feated; holy perfonage relieving a diftreffed perfon; dito bringing ditto to the entrance of a church; a bishop; the Angel driving Adam and Eve from Paradife; Angel faluting the Virgin. Among the carvings to the feats of the Choir, is a Syren with a mirror, a Centaur with a fhield, fupporting an elephant, which carries on its back a cattle full of armed men. There is a very curious bugle-horn belonging to the Corporation; on the belt, to which the horn is fufpended, are many arms and devices in filver, appertaining to the profeffions of thofe who have been Mayors; many dates occur, from 1570 to 1790. GENT. MAG. July, 1806. FOUNTAINS ABBEY. Founded 1132 This magnificent pile, although havocked down to mere ruins, prefeives the whole of the monafiical arrangements, probably more fo than in any other antient religiouseftablishment among us. The Abbey is fituated near a line of rocks, from whence the ftone for building was taken, the North fide of the church ranging with the quarries. On the South fide of the Abbey, and over which many of the edifices are con ftructed, runs the river Skell. Plan. On the Weft, and at fome diflance from the main structure, is the Porter's Lodge, Infirmary, Mill-bridge (mill deftroyed), Eleemofynary, or place for alms (two large erections), a fecond bridge. Edifice built on arches (through which the river runs), where the poorwas fed. Ambulatory, or double cloifter, fianding to the Welt, and raifed on the South fide of the church (where all the monaftic building lie). Över is the Dormitory. The length of the Am-, bulatory (divided into two ailes by a range of columns) is immenfe, nearly taking up as much face as the length of the Church itself. The Coifiers, on the Eaft fide of which is the Chapter-houfe, various lodging-rooms, &c. On the South fide the kitchen, feuliery, refectory, locutorium, &e. To the Eastward of thefe buildings is a third bridge. The Church gives the nave and fide ailes; North tranfept with chapels: over the North extremity of this tranfept rifes the great tower (uncommon fituation); South tranfept with chapels. Choir, and Lady Chapel, which Chapel lies, in its extreme length, North and South, in manner like the Chapel of the Nine Altars, Durham Cathedral. Length of the Church three hundred and fifty-one feet. Views. The Weft front of the Church is ráther of a fimp e caft; a centre door-way, and over it the great Welt window. But what gives intereft to the fcene is, the prodigious line in continuation with the front of the Church, of the Ambulatory, and Dor mitory over it. On the left of the Church are the picturesque rocks, and on the right the monaitic erections. There are four or five door-ways into the Ambulatory; and under the Southern extremity of this place, built on arches, runs the river. The fall of water at this point being great, a fine cal cafcade is produced, at once to delight the eye, and roufe the mind from profound meditation; which might other wife, in fo fequeftered a spot, feel too great a portion of languor, and depreffion of fpirits. Memory has me in her toils, toils fometimes of filken texture (joyous), at others of iron web (terrific); but now the durance takes a ferious turn. A prefumptive heir of thefe facred mounds ufed to tell me, previous to my vifits to their hallowed walls, that in the Ambulatory against the fifth column from the North, he had marked out his grave! His health declining rapidly made him intent on this. He died! Perhaps fome friend may inform us if the melancholy choice was complied with? The Eaft front of the Church has every particular in defign to charm, and elevate the imagination, when fraught with holy purposes. In the centre the large Eaft window, taking the width and height of the whole Choir: to the right and left two flories of windows, and between each buttreffes, &c. &c. The furrounding fcenery again becomes impreffive, where woods, ftreams, cafcades, and rocks, from their natural commixture of effects, throw out the artificial creation of afpiring forms, which, to the first glauce of the diftant eye on this point of the works, might feem all vifion, and all celeftial! (Are thefe feufations alone referved for me? no; many others, no doubt, are raptured; but few reveal their thoughts, I fear.) At the South end of our Lady's Chapel, a pleafing feene is prefented, as the work of the Eaft front is turned, or carried on in continuation. Amidt fome gaps in the wall the great Tower is feen. Standing in the Nave, and looking to the Eaft end of the building, an awful example of man's fanatical rage is every where made manifeft. In the foreground, to the right and left, fragments of the Nave; in the middle dillance, parts of the tranfepts, the remnants of the arches and ailes of the Choir; and in the extreme diftance the great Eaft window, waiting fome fudden fhock, to meet the fate its once attached glories have already fuffered! Had I not on the like occafions given way to rage and many a threatening vengeance (ah! who heeds me?) I here might rend the hearts of fellowlabourers in the fields of Antiquity, with keen and bitter invectives against thofe who have been concerned in the deftruction of fo much proof of art and beauteous workmanship; but each conflicting paffion cools, and all is calm again! The Refectory befpeaks much grandeur; the end, or higher part of the room, is to the South, where, and on the fides, Eaft and Wet, are lofty windows: connected with the windows on the latter fide is a beautiful gallery for the minstrels, as we prefume to term it; if at any hour of pious feftival it was held good to call in the aid of Divine Harmony, How diftrefling it is to reflect, that the whole of this prodigious series of edifices, excepting the Ambulatory, is ungroined and unroofed; and that particular portion of the walls that hath fuffered the greatest devaftation is in the Choir; wanton barbarity and favage ignorance having left the other elevations lefs miferable and lefs defiled. Upon confulting the mode of the Architecture throughout, I find an uniformity of flyle, not ufual in fo vaft an affemblage of edifices, every where prevailing, and agreeing well with the date of foundation. Loftinefs of idea in the general elevations, fim. plicity of features in the decorations, and a correct and chafte tafte, governing the whole of the works; works yet proclaiming the fublimity of Foun tians Abbey, JERVAUX ABBEY, Hard is thy deftiny indeed, havocked down to unintelligible mafles of ruins, barely difcriminating where the Abbot lodged, where the brethren took their pittances, where they paced in pious contemplation, where they ftudied, or where they inclined to foft repofe: and that facred fpot where fongs of praise were wont to find Heaven's mercy, tptally done away, without veftige, or any traditional pointed-out fite, to aid the exploring eye of him who defires to perpetuate fuch memorials, I attempted at fomething like a ge neral plan, or a flight recovery of the monaftic pile, but with little fuccefs. I began my lines on the Weti, by the fide of the road leading to Middleham. On the right and left, heaps of ruins; fuppofe here was the great gate-way: advancing, came to ruins; fuppofe the Refectory, running Eaft and Weft 116 feet in length. On the right, or South of thefe relics, many males of edifices; perhaps the Abbot's lodgings, the monaftic offices, &c. Willing to try at an elevation, I here and there particularized fome door-ways, half buried arches in the walls; many windows alfo came under my obfervation, but in fuch a mutilated condition, that I was at laft compelled to give up my furvey, having made not the moft diftant trace of the Church. So I left Jervaux, little informed, but much mortified at man's propenfity to wage eternal war against monaftic remains. MIDDLEHAM. In the centre of the town is the bafe of a double crofs. A large oblong flight of fteps fupports two plain pedettals, once, no doubt, conftituting the lower parts of two croffes. On the pedeftals at prefent are placed a large ftone bafon, and a couchant lion. Admitting thefe pedestals, bafon, and lion, to be original, it will be allowed this is an uncommon defign. From this fpot, looking directly over the houfes, the upper lines of the towers of the Cattle appear. The whole fcene was fullen, dreary, and as a place deserted and forlorn! It was even fo. : The Cattle date 1190. The whole of the works are in ruins. Plan, an oblong fquare, taking in a pace about 216 feet, by 165 feet. At the three angles of the outer walls are fquare towers; at the fourth ditto, a circular tower. Within thele walls are numerous attached chambers and offices. From thefe buildings to the extenfive pile or keep occupying the centre of the Caffle runs an area about 25 feet in breadth, making an ambulatory of four fides, excepting the South-eaft angle, where thefe chambers communicate with the keep. The Keep is di-, vided into two parts or chambers, nearly 100 feet in length, one of them in breadth 26 feet, the other 19 feet. The front of the Caftle next the town bears North, where in the tower at the North eat angle (fquare) is the gate of entrance, with a double divifion of groined arches. On the East fide of the keep is a grand afcent of many feps, communicating with a circular faircafe at the South-east angle, which gave admittance to the feveral floors. There are veftiges of an infinity of staircafes for the external wall attached buildings.-Elevations. The North front is the most entire, and gives the defign as fimple in the diftribution of parts, but of strength mighty, the walls being in many places, particularly of the keep, from 10 to 15 feet thick. It is to be wondered at, that the gate of entrance fhould be on the angle of the walls. Eaft front nearly destroyed. South front rather perfect, as is the Welt front. In the Ambulatory are huge maffes of walls, which have fallen down, and lying in every direction. In the North-welt angle is one of thefe maffes, a cube of at leaft 20 feet, ftanding abfolutely on a point, it having taken an oblique pofition when thrown down. It is not to be doubted thefe devaftations were the effect of gunpowder, hy mining, &c. From this mafs remaining, united in its feveral particles as one compact body, and from many prodigious parts of hanging walls, bearing themfelves in the air in tremendous fort; we have ftill to admire the extraordinary skill of our old mafons, and to hold in con, tempt the defpicable efforts of modern men of this art, who cannot poffibly make two ftones remain together, without the affiftance of iron cramps, &c. The decorations of windows, &c. on the exterior fronts, are for the moft part advanced little beyond loopholes, and are in the Tudor ftyle; but the windows to the Keep exhibit great dimenfions, and evince the authenti city of date, 1190. The two chambers on the second flory of this principal range muft have been fuperlatively grand. In conclufion, the whole of the Cafile, taken in a comparative way, is totally unlike any I have yet vifited. In the very of Wenley Church (near Middleham) is a curious basso relievo, 1 foot 4 inches, by 9 inches. In the four corners left by the fides of the crofs are birds and dragons: at the bottom the word DONERID. The work is Saxon. In the chancel, a fine brafs of a priest (perfect), the robes much embroidered: the hands are croffed and fupport a chalice. COVERHAM ABBEY. Another ruin! Plan: Gateway, fome remnants of the monaftic buildings on the South fide of the church, which church is on a fmall fcale; about 117 feet from Eaft to Weft. In the elevation thefe ruins fhew the gateway; the arch circular; clusters of columns on one fide the nave with pointed arches; and of the tranfepts and choir little more than foundation walls walls exift. The monaftic offices Mr. URBAN, July 5. THE following very interefing Codicil to the Will of that great, glorious, and ever-to-be-lamented hero, Lord Nelfon, which was proved this day in the Prerogative Court, explains the unmanly and implacable vengeance with which Buonaparte purfues the Queen of Naples. To the friendly offices of that unfortunate Princefs, obtained by Lady Hamilton, Lord Nelfon, in his laft moments, has declared, by his Will, that his country is indebted for the glorious victory of Aboukir, and the confequent defeat and flight of Buonaparte. Yours, &c. NAUTICUS. October 21, 1805, then in fight of the Combined Fleets of France and Spain, diftant about ten miles. Whereas the eminent fervices of Emma Hamilton, widow of the Right Hon. Sir William Hamilton, have been of the very greateft fervice to our King and Country, to my knowledge, without her receiving any reward from either our King or Country: first, that the obtained the King of Spain's Jetter in 1796 to his brother the King of Naples, acquainting him of his intention to declare war again Eng land; from which letter the Miniftry fent out orders to then Sir John Jervis, to ftrike a firoke, if opportunity offered, againft either the arfenals of Spain or her fleets; that neither of thefe was done is not the fault of Lady Hamilton; the opportunity might have been offered. Secondly, the British feet under my command could never have returned the fcond time to Egypt, had not Lady Hamilton's influence with the Queen of Naples, caufed letters to be wrote to the Governor of Syracufe, that he was to encourage the Het being fupplied with every thing, * Engraved in Gough's "Sepulchral Monuments." fhould they put into any port in Sicily, We put into Syracufe, and received every fupply; went to Egypt, and deftroyed the French fleet!-Could I have rewarded thefe fervices, I would not now call upon my Country; but as that has not been in my power, I leave Emma Lady Hamilton, therefore, a legacy to my King and Country, that they will give her an ample provifion to maintain her rank in life. I alfo leave to the beneficence of my country my adopted daughter Horafia Nelfon Thompfon, and I defire the will ufe in future the name of Nelfon only; these are the only favours I afk of my King and Country at this moment, when I am going to fight their battle. May God blefs my King and Country, and all thofe I hold dear! My relations it is needlefs to mention; they will, of course, be amply provided for. NELSON and BRONTE. Wit. Henry Blackwood. T. M. Hardy,” Mr. URBAN, July 7: E VERY occurrence relating to the character of our illuftrious Hero. is valuable and interefting; and I prefent to you the following extract of a letter from the Father of Lord Nelfon to an intimate friend, the Rev. Brian Allot, as an affecting fpecimen of parental regard. It is dated in October 1798, in anfwer to a congratulatory Epistle on the glorious Battle of the Nile. Yours, &c. F. FARLEY. Sir, My great and good fon went into the world without fortune, but with a heart replete with every moral and religious virtue; thefe have been his compa's to fleer by, and it has pleafed God to be his fhield in the day of battle, and to give fuccefs to his withes to be of fervice to his country. His country feems fenfible of his fervices; but thould he ever meet with ingratitude his fears will plead his caufe: for at the fiege of Bast a he lost an eye; at Teneriffe an arm; on the memora ble 14th of February he received a fevere blow on his body, which he fill feels; and now a wound in his head, After all this, you must believe his bloom of countenance must be faded ; but the fpirit beareth up yet as vigorous as ever. On the 29th of September he completed his 40th year; cheerful, generous, and good, fearing no evil, becaufe he has done none, an honour to my grey hairs, which, with every mark of old age, creep fall upon me.' LET 1 |