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Bead.

their Ave-Marias and Pater-nofters; and the like Beads, ufage is found among the dervises and other religious throughout the Eait, as well Mahometan as Heathen. The ancient Druids appear alfo to have had their beads, many of which are ftill found; at least, if the conjecture of an ingenious author may be admitted, who takes thofe antique glass globules, having a snake painted round them, and called adder-beads, or fnakebuttons, to have been the beads of our ancient Druids. See ANGUIS.

Beachy different fizes and figures, externally of a dark reddifh brown, fomewhat like myrrh; internally it is clear, and not unlike to glue; to the taste it is flightly bitterifh and pungent; its odour is very agreeable. If held in the mouth, it foon becomes foft and tenacious, fticking to the teeth. Laid on a red-hot iron, it readily catches flame, and burns with a crackling noise, and in proportion to its goodness it is more or lefs fragrant. Near half of its fubftance diffolves either in water or in fpirit of wine; but the tincture made with fpirit is fomewhat ftronger, and by much more agreeable. Vinegar, or verjuice, diffolves it wholly. The fimple gum is a better medicine than any preparation from it. It is one of the weakest of the deobftruent gums, but it is used as a pectoral and an emmena. gogue.

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BEACHY-HEAD, a promontory on the coaft of Suffex, between Haftings and Shoreham, where the French defeated the English and Dutch fleet in 1690. BEACON, a fignal for the better fecuring the kingdom from foreign invafions. See SIGNAL.

On certain eminent places of the country are placed long poles erect, whereon are faftened pitch-barrels to be fired by night, and smoke made by day, to give notice in a few hours to the whole kingdom of an approaching invafion. These are commonly called beacons; whence alfo comes beaconage.We find beacons familiarly in ufe among the primitive Britons and Western Highlanders. The befieged capital of one of our northern ifles in the third century actually lighted up a fire upon a tower; and Fingal inftantly knew "the green flame edged with fmoke" to be a token of attack and diftrefs*. And there are to this day feveral cairns or heaps of ftones upon the heights along the coafts of the Harries, on which the inhabitants ufed to burn heath as a fignal of an approaching enemy. BEACONS are alfo marks and figns erected on the coafts, for guiding and preferving veffels at fea, by night as well as by day.

The erection of beacons, light-houfes, and fea-marks, is a branch of the royal prerogative. The king hath the exclufive power, by commiffion under his great feal, to cause them to be erected in fit and convenient places, as well upon the lands of the fubject as upon the demefnes of the crown: which power is ufually vefted by letters patent in the office of lord high admiral. And by ftatute 8 Eliz. c. 13. the corporation of the trinityhoufe are impowered to fet up any beacons or feamarks wherever they fhall think them neceffary; and if the owner of the land or any other perfon fhall deftroy them, or shall take down any fteeple, tree, or other known fea-mark, he fhall forfeit 100l. or, in cafe of inability to pay it, fhall be ipfo facto outlawed.

BEACONAGE, money paid towards the maintenance of a beacon. See BEACON.-The word is derived from the Saxon beacnian, to nod, or fhow by a fign; hence alfo the word beckon.

BEACONSFIELD, a town of Buckinghamshire in England, feated on a hill in the road between London and Oxford. It has feveral good inns, though not above 100 houfes. W. Long. o. 25. N. Lat. 51. 36.

BEAD, a small globule or ball used in necklaces; and made of different materials, as pearl, fteel, garnet, coral, diamond, amber, cryftal, paftes, glafs, &c.The Romanists make great ufe of beads in rehearsing

BEADS are alfo ufed in fpeaking of thofe glafs globules vended to the favages on the coaft of Africa; thus denominated, because they are ftrung together for the convenience of traffic.

The common black glass of which beads are made for necklaces, &c. is coloured with manganefe only: one part of manganefe is fufficient to give a black colour to near twenty of glass.

BEAD, in architecture, a round moulding, commonly made upon the edge of a piece of stuff, in the Corinthian and Roman orders, cut or carved in fhort embossments, like beads in necklaces.

BEAD-Makers, called by the French paternoftriers, are thofe employed in the making, ftringing, and felling of beads. At Paris there are three companies of paternoftriers, or bead-makers; one who make them of glafs or cryftal; another in wood and horn; and the third in amber, coral, jet, &c.

BEAD-Proof, a term used by our distillers to express that fort of proof of the ftandard ftrength of fpirituous liquors, which confifts in their having, when fhaken in a phial, or poured from on high into a glass, a crown of bubbles, which stand on the furface fome time after. This is cfteemed a proof that the spirit confifts of equal parts of rectified fpirits and phlegm. This is a fallacious rule as to the degree of ftrength in the goods; becaufe any thing that will increase the tenacity of the fpirit, will give it this proof, though it be under the due ftrength. Our malt-diftillers fpoil the greater part of their goods, by leaving too much of the ftinking oil of the malt in their spirit, in order to give it this proof when somewhat under the standard ftrength. But this is a great deceit on the purchasers of malt spirits, as they have them by this means not only weaker than they ought to be, but ftinking with an oil that they are not eafily cleared of afterwards. On the other hand, the dealers in brandy, who usually have the art of fophifticating it to a great nicety, are in the right when they buy it by the strongest bread-proof, as the grand mark of the beft; for being a proof of the brandy containing a large quantity of its oil, it is, at the fame time, a token of its high flavour, and of its being capable of bearing a very large addition of the common fpirits of our own produce, without betraying their flavour, or losing its own. We value the French brandy for the quantity of this effential oil of the grape which it contains; and that with good reason, as it is with us principally used for drinking as an agreeably flavoured cordial: but the French themselves, when they want it for any curious purposes, are as careful in the rectifications of it, and take as much pains to clear it from this oil, as we do to free our malt fpirit from that naufeous and fetid oil which it originally contains.

BEAD-Roll, among Papifts, a lift of fuch perfons, for the reft of whofe fouls they are obliged to repeat a cerM 2

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Beam.

their beads.

BEAD-Tree. See MELIA.

Bean.

Beadle tain number of prayers, which they count by means of fupport the principal rafters of the roof, and into which Beam the feet of thefe rafters are framed. No building has lefs than two of these beams, viz. one at each end; and into thefe the girders of the garret roof are alfo framed. The proportion of beams in or near London, are fixed by ftatute, as follows: a beam 15 feet long, must be 7 inches on one fide its fquare, and 5 on the other; if it be 16 feet long, one fide muft be 8 inches, the other 6, and fo proportionably to their lengths. In the country, where wood is more plenty, they ufually make their beams ftronger.

BEADLE, (from the Saxon bydel, a meffenger), a crier or meffenger of a court, who cites perfons to appear and anfwer. Called alfo a fummoner or apparitor. Beadle is alfo an officer at an univerfity, whofe chief business is to walk before the masters with a mace, at all public proceffions.-There are alfo church-beatles, whofe office is well known.

BEAGLES, a small fort of hounds or hunting dogs. Beagles are of divers kinds; as the fouthern beagle, fomething lefs and fhorter, but thicker, than the deepmouthed hound; the fleet northern or cat beagle, fmaller, and of a finer fhape than the fouthern, and a harder runner. From the two, by croffing the trains, is bred a third fort held preferable to either. To thefe may be added a ftill fmaller fort of beagles, fcarce bigger than lap-dogs, which make pretty diverfion in hunting the coney, or even fmall hare in dry weather; but otherwife unferviceable, by reafon of their fize.

BEAK, the bill or nib of a bird. See ORNITHO

LOGY.

BEAK, or Beak-head, of a fhip, that part without the fhip, before the fore-castle, which is faftened to the ftem, and is fupported by the main knec.

The beak, called by the Greeks Conov, by the Latins roftrum, was an important part in the ancient ships of war, which were hence denominated naves roftrate. The beak was made of wood; but fortified with brafs, and faftened to the prow, ferving to annoy the enemies veffels. Its invention is attributed to Pifæus an Italian. The first beaks were made long and high; but after wards a Corinthian, named Arifto, contrived to make them fhort and strong, and placed fo low, as to pierce the enemies veffels under water. By the help of thefe great havock was made by the Syracufians in the Athenian fleet.

BEAKED, in heraldry, a term used to exprefs the beak or bill of a bird. When the beak and legs of a fowl are of a different tincture from the body, we fay beaked and membered of fuch a tincture.

BEALE (Mary), particularly diftinguished by her fkill in painting, was the daughter of Mr Craddock, minifter of Waltham upon Thames, and learned the rudiments of her art from Sir Peter Lely. She painted in oil, water-colours, and crayons, and had much bufinefs; her portraits were in the Italian style, which fhe acquired by copying pictures and drawings from Sir Peter Lely's and the royal collections. Her mafter, fays Mr Walpole, was fuppofed to have had a tender attachment to her; but as he was reserved in communicating to her all the refources of his pencil, it probably was a gallant rather than a fuccefsful one. Dr Woodfall wrote feveral pieces to her honour, under the name of Belefia. Mrs Beale died in Pall-mall, on the 28th of Dec. 1697, aged 65. Her paintings have much nature, but the colouring is ftiff and heavy.

BEALT, BEALTH, or Builth, a town of Brecknockshire in South Wales, pleafantly feated on the river Wye. It confifts of about 100 houfes, whofe inhabitants have a trade in ftockings. W. Long. 4. 10. N. Lat. 52.4.

BEAM, in architecture, the largeft piece of wood in a building, which lies cross the walls, and ferves to

BEAMS of a Ship are the great main cross-timbers which hold the fides of the fhip from falling together, and which also support the decks and orlops: the main beam is next the main-maft, and from it they are reckoned by firft, fecond, third beam, &c. the greatest beam of all is called the midship beam.

BEAM-Compass, an inftrument confitting of a fquare wooden or brafs beam, having fliding fockets, that carry feel or pencil points; they are used for defcribing large circles, where the common compaffes are ufelefs. BEAM-Bird, or Petty-chaps. See MOTACILLA.

BEAM alfo denotes the lath, or iron, of a pair of fcales; fometimes the whole apparatus for weighing of goods is fo called: Thus we fay, it weighs fo much at the king's beam.

BEAM of a Plough, that in which all the parts of the plough-tail are fixed. See AGRICULTURE, n° 83.

&c.

BEAM, or Roller, among weavers, a long and thick wooden cylinder, placed lengthwife on the back-part of the loom of those who work with a fhuttle. That cylinder, on which the stuff is rolled as it is weaved, is alfo called the beam or roller, and is placed on the forepart of the loom.

BEAMINSTER, a town of Dorfetfhire in England, feated on the river Bert, in W. Long. 2. 50. N. Lat. 52.

45.

BEAN, in botany. See VICIA.

The ancients made ufe of beans in gathering the votes of the people, and for the election of magiAtrates. A white bean fignified abfolution, and a black one condemnation. Beans had a mysterious use in the lemuralia and parentalia; where the mafter of the family, after washing, was to throw a fort of black beans over his head, ftill repeating the words, "I redeem myfelf and family by thefe beans." Ovid* gives • Faft. lib.5. a lively defeription of the whole ceremony in verfe.- v. 435• Abftinence from beans was enjoined by Pythagoras, one of whofe fymbols is, xvxov azobai, abftine a fabis. The Egyptian priefts held it a crime to look at beans, judging the very fight unclean. The flamen dialis was not permitted even to mention the name. The precept of Pythagoras has been variously interpreted: fome understand it of forbearing to meddle in trials and verdicts, which were then by throwing beans into an urn: others, building on the equivoque of the word xxμ, which equally fignifies a bean and a human tefticle, explain it by abstaining from venery. Clemens Alexan drinus grounds the abftinence from beans on this, that they render women barren; which is confirmed by Theophraftus, who extends the effect even to plants. Cicero fuggets another reafon for this abftinence, viz. that beans are great enemies to tranquillity of mind. For a reafon of this kind it is, that Amphiaraus is faid

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Bear.

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[ Beans to have abflained from beans, even before Pythagoras, that he might enjoy a clearer divination by dreams. BEANS, as food for horfes. See FARRIERY, § i. 6. BEAN-Caper. See ZYGOPHYLLUM. BEAN-Cod, a fmall fifhing veffel, or pilot-boat, common on the fea-coafts and in the rivers of Portugal. It is extremely fharp forward, having its ftem bent inward above into a great curve: the ftem is alfo plated on the fore-fide with iron, into which a number of bolts are driven, to fortify it, and refit the ftroke of another veffel, which may fall athwart-haufe. It is commonly navigated with a large lateen fail, which extends over the whole length of the deck, and is accordingly well fitted to ply to windward.

BEAN-Flour, called by the Romans lomentum, was of fome repute among the ancient ladies as a cofmetic, wherewith to finooth the fkin, and take away wrinkles.

BEAN-Fly, in natural hiftory, the name given by authors to a very beautiful fly, of a pale purple colour, frequently found on bean-flowers. It is produced from the worm or maggot called by authors mida. BEAN-Goofe, in ornithology. See ANAS. See PHASEOLUS. Kidney-BEAN.

Malacca-BEANS, or Anacardia, the fruit of a tree growing in Malabar and other parts of the Eaft Indies, fuppofed by fome to be the AVICENNIA tomentofa; by others, the BONTIA germinans. The fruit is of a fhining black colour, of the fhape of a heart flattened, about an inch long, terminating at one end in an obtufe point, and adhering by the other to a wrinkled ftalk: it contains within two fhells a kernel of a fweetish tafte: betwixt the fhells is lodged a thick and acrid juice.

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medy againft cold diforders, efpecially rheumatisms.
It is now much ufed in dreffing ladies and gentlemens

The medicinal virtues of anacardia have been great-
ly difputed. Many have attributed to them the facul-
ty of comforting the brain and nerves, fortifying the
memory, and quickening the intellect and hence a
confection made from them has been dignified with the
title of confectis fapientum; others think it better de-
ferves the name of confectio ftultorum, and mention in-
ftances of its continued ufe having rendered people ma-
niacal. But the kernel of anacardium is not different
in quality from that of almonds. The ill effects attri-
buted to this fruit belong only to the juice contained
betwixt the kernels, whofe acrimony is fo great, that
it is faid to be employed by the Indians as a cauftic.
This juice is recommended externally for tetters, freckles,
and other cutaneous deformities; which it removes
only by exculcerating or excoriating the part, fo that
a new fkin comes underneath.

BEAR, in zoology. See URSUS.
See PHOCA.
Sea-BEAR.

BEAR, in aftronomy. See URSA.

Order of the BEAR was a military order in Switzer-
land, erected by the Emperor Frederick II. in 1213,
by way of acknowledgment for the fervice the Swifs
had done him, and in favour of the abbey of St Gaul.
To the collar of the order hung a medal, on which was
represented a bear raised on an eminence of earth..

BEAR'S-Breech, in botany. See ACANTHUS.
BEAR'S Flesh was much efteemed by the ancients:
even at this day, the paw of a bear falted and smoked
is ferved up at the table of princes.

Bask's Greafe, was formerly esteemed a fovereign re

hair.

BEAR'S Skin makes a fur in great esteem, and on
In fome coun-
which depends a confiderable article of commerce, being
ufed in houfings, on coach-boxes, &c.
tries, clothes are made of it, more efpecially bags
wherein to keep the feet warm in fevere colds. Of the
fkins of hears cubs are made gloves, muffs, and the like.

BEARALSTON, a poor town of Devonshire,
which, however, is a borough by prefcription, and
fends two members to parliament.

BEARD, the hair growing on the chin and adjacent parts of the face, chiefly of adults and males. Various have been the ceremonies and customs of moft The Tartars, out of nations in regard of the beard. a religious principle, waged a long and bloody war with the Perfians, declaring them infidels, merely becaufe they would not cut their whiskers after the rite of Tartary: and we find, that a confiderable branch of the religion of the ancients confifted in the management of their beard. The Greeks wore their beards till the time of Alexander the Great; that prince having ordered the Macedonians to be fhaved, for fear it. fhould give a handle to their enemies. According to. Pliny, the Romans did not begin to fhave till the year of Rome 454, when P. Ticinius brought over a ftock of barbers from Sicily.-Perfons of quality had their children fhaved the first time by others of the fame or greater quality, who, by this means, became godfather or adoptive father of the children. Anciently, indeed, a perfon became god-father of the child by barely touching his beard: thus hiftorians relate, that one of the articles of the treaty between Alaric and dif Clovis was, that Alaric fhould touch the beard of Clovis to become his god-father.

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As to ecclefiaftics, the difcipline has been ferent on the article of beards: fometimes they have been enjoined to wear them, from a notion of too much effeminacy in fhaving, and that a long beard was more fuitable to the ecclefiaftical gravity; and fometimes again they were forbid it, as imagining pride to lurk beneath a venerable beard. The Greek and Roman churches have been long together by the ears about their beards: fince the time of their feparation, the Romanifts feem to have given more into the practice of fhaving, by way of oppofition to the Greeks; and have even made fome exprefs conftitutions de radendis barbis.. The Greeks, on the contrary, espouse very zealously the caufe of long beards, and are extremely fcandalized at the beardless images of faints in the Roman churches. By the ftatues of fome monafteries it appears, that the lay-monks were to let their beards grow, and the priests among them to fhave; and that the beards of all that were received into the monafteries, were blessed with a. great deal of ceremony. There are fill extant the prayers used in the folemnity of confecrating the beard: to God, when an ecclefiaftic was fhaven.

Le Comte obferves, that the Chinese affect long beards extravagantly; but nature has balked them, and only given them very little ones, which, however, they cultivate with infinite care: the Europeans are ftrangely envied by them on this account, and efteemed the greatest men in the world. Chryfoftom obferves, that. gether the kings of Perfia had their beards wove or matted to-

Bear

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Beard. gether with gold-thread; and fome of the first kings of France had their beards knotted and buttoned with gold.

Among the Turks, it is more infamous for any one to have his beard cut off, than among us to be publicly whipt or branded with a hot iron. There are abundance in that country, who would prefer death to this kind of punishment. The Arabs make the preservation of their beards a capital point of religion, because Mahomet never cut his. Hence the razor is never drawn over the Grand Signior's face. The Perfians, who clip them, and fhave above the jaw, are reputed heretics. It is likewife a mark of authority and liberty among them, as well as among the Turks. They who ferve in the feraglio, have their beards fhaven, as a fign of their fervitude. They do not suffer it to grow till the fultan has fet them at liberty, which is bestowed as a reward upon them, and is always accompanied with fome employment.

The most celebrated ancient writers, and feveral modern ones, have fpoken honourably of the fine beards of antiquity. Homer fpeaks highly of the white beard of Neftor and that of old king Priam. Virgil describes Mezentius's to us, which was fo thick and long as to cover all his breaft; Chryfippus praises the noble beard of Timothy, a famous player on the flute. Pliny the younger tells us of the white beard of Euphrates, a Syrian philofopher; and he takes pleafure in relating the refpect mixed with fear with which it infpired the people. Plutarch speaks of the long white beard of an old Laconian, who, being afked why he let it grow fo, replied, 'Tis that, feeing continually my white beard, I may do nothing unworthy of its whitenefs. Strabo relates, that the Indian philofophers, the Gymnofophifts, were particularly attentive to make the length of their beards contribute to captivate the veneration of the people. Diodorus, after him, gives a very particular and circumftantial hiftory of the beards of the Indians. Juvenal does not forget that of Antilochus the fon of Neftor. Fenelon, in defcribing a pricft of Apollo in all his magnificence, tells us, that he had a white beard down to his girdle. But Per fius feems to outdo all these anthors: this poet was fo convinced that a beard was the symbol of wisdom, that he thought he could not beftow a greater encomium on the divine Socrates, than by calling him the bearded mafter, Magifirum barbatum.

To touch any one's beard, or cut off a bit of it, Beard. was, among the firft French, the most facred pledge of protection and confidence. For a long time all letters that came from the fovereign had, for greater fanction, three hairs of his beard in the feal. There is ftill in being a charter of 1121, which concludes with the following words: Quod ut ratum et stabile perfeveret in pofterum, præfentis fcripto figilli mei robur appofui cum tribus pilis barba mea.

Several great men have honoured themselves with the furname of Bearded. The Emperor Conftantine is diftinguifhed by the epithet of Pogonate, which fignifies the Bearded. In the time of the Crufades, we find there was a Geffrey the Bearded: Baldwin IV. Earl of Flanders, was furnamed Handsome-beard; and, in the illuftrious houfe of Montmorenci, there was a famous Bouchard, who took a pride in the furname of Bearded: he was always the declared enemy of the monks, without doubt, because of their being fhaved.

In the tenth century, we find, that King Robert (of France) the rival of Charles the Simple, was not more famous for his exploits than for his long white beard. In order that it might be more confpicuous to the foldiers when he was in the field, he used to let it hang down outfide his cuirafs: this venerable fight encouraged the troops in battle, and ferved to rally them when they were defeated.

A celebrated painter in Germany, called John Mayo, had fuch a large beard that he was nicknamed John the Bearded: it was fo long that he wore it fastened to his girdle; and though he was a very tall man, it would hang upon the ground when he stood upright. He took the greatest care of this extraordinary beard fometimes he would untie it before the Emperor Charles V. who took great pleasure to see the wind make it fly againft the faces of the lords of his court.

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In England, the famous chancellor Thomas More, one of the greatest men of his time, being on the point of falling a victim to court intrigues, was able, when on the fatal fcaffold, to procure refpect to his beard in prefence of all the people, and faved it, as one may fay, from the fatal ftroke which he could not escape himfelf. When he had laid his head on the block, he perceived that his beard was likely to be hurt by the axe of the executioner; on which he took it away, faying, My beard has not been guilty of treason; it would be an injuftice to punish it.

While the Gauls were under their fovereignty, But let us turn our eyes to a more flattering none but the nobles and Chriftian priests were per- object, and admire the beard of the belt of kings, the mitted to wear long beards. The Franks having ever precious beard of the great Henry IV. of France, made themfelves matters of Gaul, affumed the fame which diffufed over the countenance of that prince a authority as the Romans: the bondsmen were ex- majestic fweetnefs and amiable opennefs, a beard ever prefsly ordered to fhave their chins; and this law dear to pofterity, and which fhould ferve as a model continued in force until the entire abolishment of fer- for that of every great king; as the beard of his ilvitude in France. So likewife, in the time of the firft luftrious minifter fhould for that of every minifter. race of kings, a long beard was a fign of nobility and But what dependence is there to be put on the stabifreedom. The kings, as being the higheft nobles lity of the things of this world? By an event, as fatal in their kingdom, were emulous likewife to have the as unforeseen, the beard, which was arrived at its highest largeft beard: Eginard, fecretary to Charlemain, degree of glory, all of a fudden loft its favour, and was fpeaking of the laft kings of the first race, fays, they at length entirely profcribed. The unexpected death came to the affemblies in the Field of Mars in a car- of Henry the Great, and the youth of his fucceffor, riage drawn by oxen, and fat on the throne with their were the fole caufe of it. hair dishevelled, and a very long beard, crine profuso, barba fubmiffa, folio refiderent, et fpeciem dominantis effingerent.

Louis XIII. mounted the throne of his glorious ancestors without a beard. Every one concluded immediately, that the courtiers, feeing their young king

Beard. with a fmooth chin, would look upon their own as too rough. The conjecture proved right; for they prefently reduced their beards to whiskers, and a small tuft of hair under the nether lip.

The people at firft would not follow this dangerous example. The Duke of Sully never would adopt this effeminate cuftom. This man, great both as a general and a minister, was likewife fo in his retirement: he had the courage to keep his long beard, and to appear with it at the court of Louis XIII. where he was called to give his advice in an affair of importance. The young crop-bearded courtiers laughed at the fight of his grave look and old-fashioned phiz. The duke, nettled at the affront put on his fine beard, faid to the king, "Sir, when your father, of glorious memory, did me the honour to confult me on his great and important affairs, the first thing he did was to fend away all the buffoons and stage-dancers of his court."

The Czar Peter, who had fo many claims to the furname of Great, feems to have been but little worthy of it on this occafion. He had the boldness to lay a tax on the beards of his fubjects. He ordered that the noblemen and gentlemen, tradefmen and artifans (the priests and peasants excepted), fhould pay 100 rubles to be able to retain their beards; that the lower clafs of people fhould pay a copeck for the fame liberty; and he established clerks at the gates of the different towns to collect thefe duties. Such a new and fingular impoft troubled the vaft empire of Ruffia. Both religion and manners were thought in danger. Complaints were heard from all parts; they even went fo far as to write libels against the fovereign; but he was inflexible, and at that time powerful. Even the fatal fcenes of St Bartholomew were renewed againft these unfortunate beards, and the moft unlawful violences were publicly exercifed. The razor and fciffars were every where made ufe of. A great number, to avoid thefe cruel extremities, obeyed with reluctant fighs. Some of them carefully preferved the fad trimmings of their chins: and, in order to be never feparated from these dear locks, ordered that they should be placed with them in their coffins.

Example, more powerful than authority, produced in Spain what it had not been able to bring about in Ruffia without great difficulty. Philip V. afcended the throne with a shaved chin. The courtiers imitated the prince, and the people, in turn, the courtiers. However, though this revolution was brought about without violence and by degrees, it caufed much lamentation and murmuring; the gravity of the Spaniards loft by the change. The favourite custom of a nation can never be altered without incurring difpleasure. They have this old faying in Spain: Defde que no hay barba, no hay mas alma. "Since we have loft our beards, we have loft our fouls."

Among the European nations that have been moft curious in beards and whiskers, we muft diftinguish Spain. This grave romantic nation has always regarded the beard as the ornament which fhould be moft prized; and the Spaniards have often made the lofs of honour confift in that of their whiskers. The Portu guefe, whose national character is much the fame, are not the leaft behind them in that refpect. In the reign of Catherine Queen of Portugal, the brave John de

Cuftro had just taken in India the caftle of Diu: victorious, but in want of every thing, he found himfelf obliged to ask the inhabitants of Goa to lend him a thousand pistoles for the maintenance of his fleet; and, as a fecurity for that fum, he fent them one of his whifkers, telling them, "All the gold in the world cannot equal the value of this natural ornament of my valour; and I depofite it in your hands as a security for the money.' The whole town was penetrated with this heroifm, and every one interested himself about this invaluable whifker: even the women were defirous to give marks of their zeal for fo brave a man: feveral fold their bracelets to increase the fum afked for; and the inhabitants of Goa fent him immediately both the money and his whisker. A number of other examples of this kind might be produced, which do as much honour to whiskers as to the good faith of thofe days.

In Louis XIII.'s reign, whiskers attained the highest degree of favour, at the expence of the expiring beards. beards. In thofe days of gallantry, not yet empoifoned by wit, they became the favourite occupation of lovers. A fine black whisker, elegantly turned up, was a very powerful mark of dignity with the fair fex. Whiskers were ftill in fashion in the beginning of Louis XIV.'s reign. This king, and all the great men of his reign, took a pride in wearing them. They were the ornament of Turenne, Condé, Colbert, Corneille, Moliere, &c. It was then no uncommon thing for a favourite lover to have his whiskers turned up, combed, and pomatumed, by his miftrefs; and, for this purpofe, a man of fashion took care to be always provided with every little neceffary article, especially whisker-wax. It was highly flattering to a lady to have it in her power to praife the beauty of her lover's whifkers; which, far from being difgufting, gave his perfon an air of vivacity: feveral even thought them an incitement to love. It feems the levity of the French. made them undergo feveral changes both in form and name: there were Spanish, Turkish, guard-dagger, &c. whifkers; in fhort, royal ones, which were the last worn: their smallness proclaimed their approaching fall.

Confecration of the BEARD was a ceremony among the Roman youth, who, when they were fhaved the firft time, kept a day of rejoicing, and were particu larly careful to put the hair of their beard into a filver or gold box, and make an offering of it to fome god,. particularly to Jupiter Capitolinua, as was done by Nero, according to Suetonius.

Killing the BEARD. The Turkish wives kifs their hufbands beards, and children their fathers, as often as they come to falute them. The men kifs one another's beards reciprocally on both fides, when they faluté in the streets, or come off from any journey..

The Fashion of the BEARD has varied in different ages and countries; fome cultivating and entertaining one part of it, fome another. Thus the Hebrews wear a beard on their chin; but not on the upper-lip or cheeks. Mofes forbids them to cut off entirely the angle or extremity of their beard; that is, to manage it after the Egyptian fashion, who left, only a little tuft of beard at the extremity of their chin; whereas the Jews to this day fuffer a little fillet of hair to grow from the lower end of their ears to their chins, where,

as

Beard.

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