extend in a long line to below San Nicolas; hence it more resembles a sea-coast than that of a fresh-water river. It is a great drawback to the scenery of the Parana that, from the soft nature of its banks, the water is very muddy. The Uruguay, flowing through a granitic country, is much clearer; and where the two channels unite, at the head of the Plata, the waters may for a long distance be distinguished by their black and red colours. In the evening, the wind being not quite fair, as usual we immediately moored; and the next day, as it blew rather freshly, though with a favouring current, the master was much too indolent to think of starting. At Bajada he was described to me as "hombre muy aflicto " -a man always miserable to get on; but certainly he bore all delays with admirable resignation. He was an old Spaniard, and had been many years in this country. He professed a great liking to the English, but stoutly maintained that the Battle of Trafalgar was merely won by the Spanish captains having been all bought over; and that the only really gallant action on either side was performed by the Spanish admiral. It struck me as rather characteristic that this man should prefer his countrymen being thought the worst of traitors rather than unskilful and cowardly.

18th and 19th.-We continued slowly to sail down the noble stream; the current helped us but little. We met, during our descent, very few vessels. One of the best gifts of nature, in so grand a channel of communication, seems here wilfully thrown away-a river in which ships might navigate from a temperate country, as surprisingly abundant in certain productions as destitute of others, to another possessing a tropical climate, and a soil which, according to the best of judges, M. Bonpland, is perhaps unequalled in fertility in any part of the world. How different would

have been the aspect of this river if English colonists had by good fortune first sailed up the Plata! What noble towns would now have occupied its shores! Till the death of

Francia, the Dictator of Paraguay, these two countries must remain distinct, as if placed on opposite sides of the globe. And when the old bloody-minded tyrant is gone to his long account, Paraguay will be torn by revolutions, violent in proportion to the previous unnatural calm. That country will have to learn, like every other South American state, that a republic cannot succeed till it contains a certain body of men imbued with the principles of justice and honour.

October 20th.-Being arrived at the mouth of the Parana, and as I was very anxious to reach Buenos Ayres, I went on shore at Las Conchas with the intention of riding there. Upon landing I found, to my great surprise, that I was to a certain degree a prisoner. A violent revolution having broken out, all the ports were laid under an embargo. I could not return to my vessel; and as for going by land to the city, it was out of the question. After a long conversation with the commandant, I obtained permission to go the next day to General Rolor, who commanded a division of the rebels on this side the capital. In the morning I rode to the encampment. The general, officers, and soldiers all appeared, and I believe really were, great villains. The general, the very evening before he left the city, voluntarily went to the governor, and with his hand to his heart pledged his word of honour that he at least would remain faithful to the last. The general told me that the city was in a state of close blockade, and that all he could do was to give me a passport to the commander-in-chief of the rebels at Quilmes. We had therefore to take a great sweep round the city, and it was with much difficulty that we procured horses. My reception at the encampment was quite civil, but I was told it was impossible that I could be allowed to enter the city. I was very anxious about this, as I anticipated the Beagle's departure from the Rio Plata earlier than it took place. Having mentioned, however, General Rosas' obliging kindness to me when at the Colorado, magic itself could not have

I

altered circumstances quicker than did this conversation. was instantly told that though they could not give me a passport, if I chose to leave my guide and horses I might pass their sentinels. I was too glad to accept of this, and an officer was sent with me to give directions that I should not be stopped at the bridge. The road for the space of a league was quite deserted. I met one party of soldiers, who were satisfied by gravely looking at an old passport; and at length I was not a little pleased to find myself within the city.

This revolution was supported by scarcely any pretext of grievances; but in a state which, in the course of nine months (from February to October, 1820), underwent fifteen changes in its government-each governor, according to the constitution, being elected for three years-it would be very unreasonable to ask for pretexts. In this case, a party of men, who, being attached to Rosas, were disgusted with the governor Balcarce, to the number of seventy left the city, and with the cry of Rosas the whole country took arms. The city was then blockaded, no provisions, cattle, or horses were allowed to enter; besides this, there was only a little skirmishing and a few men daily killed. The outside party well knew that by stopping the supply of meat they would certainly be victorious. General Rosas could not have known of this rising; but it appears to be quite consonant with the plans of his party. A year ago he was elected governor, but he refused it unless the Sala would also confer on him extraor

dinary powers. This was refused, and since then his party have shown that no other governor can keep his place. The warfare on both sides was avowedly protracted till it was possible to hear from Rosas. A note arrived a few days after I left Buenos Ayres, which stated that the general disapproved of peace having been broken, but that he thought the outside party had justice on their side. On the bare reception of this, the governor, ministers, and part of the military, to the number of some hundreds, fled from the city.

men.

CHANGE OF GOVERNMENT.

175

The rebels entered, elected a new governor, and were paid for their services to the number of five thousand five hundred From these proceedings it was clear that Rosas ultimately would become the dictator. To the term king the people in this, as in other republics, have a particular dislike. Since leaving South America we have heard that Rosas has been elected with powers and for a time altogether opposed to the constitutional principles of the republic.

CHAPTER VIII.

BANDA ORIENTAL AND PATAGONIA.

Excursion to Colonia del Sacramiento-Value of an estancia-Cattle, how counted-Singular breed of oxen-Perforated pebbles-Shepherd-dogs -Horses broken-in, Gauchos riding-Character of inhabitants-Rio Plata-Flocks of butterflies-Aeronaut spiders-Phosphorescence of the sea-Port Desire-Guanaco-Port St. Julian-Geology of PatagoniaFossil gigantic animal-Types of organization constant-Change in the zoology of America-Causes of extinction.

HAVING been delayed for nearly a fortnight in the city, I was glad to escape on board a packet bound for Monte Video. A town in a state of blockade must always be a disagreeable place of residence; in this case, moreover, there were constant apprehensions from robbers within. The sentinels were the worst of all; for, from their office and from having arms in their hands, they robbed with a degree of authority which other men could not imitate.

Our passage was a very long and tedious one. The Plata looks like a noble estuary on the map, but is in truth a poor affair. A wide expanse of muddy water has neither grandeur nor beauty. At one time of the day the two shores, both of which are extremely low, could just be distinguished from the deck. On arriving at Monte Video I found that the Beagle would not sail for some time, so I prepared for a short excursion in this part of Banda Oriental. Everything which I have said about the country near Maldonado is applicable to Monte Video; but the land, with the one excep