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PREFACE.

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POSTSCRIPT.

I TAKE the opportunity of a new edition of my Journal to correct a few errors. At page 107 I have stated that the majority of the shells which were embedded with the extinct mammals at Punta Alta, in Bahia Blanca, were still living species. These shells have since been examined (see 'Geological Observations in South America,' p. 83) by M. Alcide d'Orbigny, and he pronounces them all to be recent. M. Aug. Bravard has lately described, in a Spanish work ('Observaciones Geologicas,' 1857), this district, and he believes that the bones of the extinct mammals were washed out of the underlying Pampean deposit, and subsequently became embedded with the still existing shells; but I am not convinced by his remarks. M. Bravard believes that the whole enormous Pampean deposit is a sub-aërial formation, like sand-dunes: this seems to me to be an untenable doctrine.

At page 455 I give a list of the birds inhabiting the Galapagos Archipelago. The progress of research has shown that some of these birds, which were then thought to be confined to the islands, occur on the American continent. The eminent ornithologist, Mr. Sclater, informs me that this is the case with the Strix punctatissima and Pyrocephalus nanus; and probably with the Otus galapagoensis and Zenaida galapagoensis: so that the number of endemic birds is reduced to twenty-three, or probably to twentyone. Mr. Sclater thinks that one or two of these endemic forms should be ranked rather as varieties than species, which always seemed to me probable.

The snake mentioned at page 458, as being, on the authority of M. Bibron, the same with a Chilian species, is stated by Dr. Günter (Zoolog. Soc., Jan. 24th, 1859) to be a peculiar species, not known to inhabit any other country.

Feb. 1st, 1860.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Porto Praya-Ribeira Grande-Atmospheric Dust with Infusoria-
Habits of a Sea-slug and Cuttle-fish-St. Paul's Rocks, non-
volcanic-Singular incrustations-Insects the first Colonists of
Islands-Fernando Noronha-Bahia-Burnished Rocks-Habits
of a Diodon-Pelagic Confervæ and Infusoria-Causes of dis-
coloured Sea

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CHAPTER II.

Rio de Janeiro-Excursion north of Cape Frio-Great Evaporation
-Slavery-Botofogo Bay-Terrestrial Planaria-Clouds on the
Corcovado-Heavy Rain-Musical Frogs-Phosphorescent Insects
-Elater, springing powers of-Blue Haze-Noise made by a
Butterfly-Entomology--Ants-Wasps killing a Spider-Para-
sitical Spider-Artifices of an Epeira-Gregarious Spider-Spider
with an unsymmetrical Web

CHAPTER III.

Monte Video-Maldonado-Excursion to R. Polanco-Lazo and
Bolas-Partridges-Absence of Trees-Deer-Capybara, or River
Hog-Tucutuco - Molothrus, cuckoo-like habits-Tyrant Fly-
catcher-Mocking-bird-Carrion Hawks-Tubes formed by Light-
ning-House struck.

CHAPTER IV.

Rio Negro-Estancias attacked by the Indians-Salt Lakes-Flam-
ingoes-R. Negro to R. Colorado-Sacred Tree-Patagonian Hare
-Indian Families-General Rosas-Proceed to Bahia Blanca-
Sand Dunes Negro Lieutenant-Bahia Blanca-Saline Incrus-
tations-Punta Alta-Zorillo .

CHAPTER V.

Bahia Blanca-Geology-Numerous gigantic extinct Quadrupeds-
Recent Extinction-Longevity of Species-Large Animals do not
require a luxuriant Vegetation-Southern Africa-Siberian Fossils
-Two Species of Ostrich-Habits of Oven-bird-Armadilloes-
-Venomous Snake, Toad, Lizard-Hybernation of Animals-
Habits of Sea-Pen-Indian Wars and Massacres-Arrow-head-
Antiquarian Relic

CHAPTER VI.

Set out for Buenos Ayres-Rio Sauce-Sierra Ventana-Third
Posta-Driving Horses-Bolas-Partridges and Foxes-Features
of the Country-Long-legged Plover -Teru-tero- Hailstorm-
Natural Enclosures in the Sierra Tapalguen-Flesh of Puma-
Meat Diet-Guardia del Monte-Effects of Cattle on the Vege-
tation Cardoon-Buenos Ayres-Coral where Cattle are
slaughtered

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134

CHAPTER VII.

Excursion to St. Fé-Thistle-Beds-Habits of the Bizcacha-Little
Owl-Saline Streams-Level Plains-Mastodon-St. Fé-Change
in Landscape Geology-Tooth of extinct Horse-Relation of
the Fossil and recent Quadrupeds of North and South America—
Effects of a great Drought-Parana-Habits of the Jaguar-
Scissor-beak-King-fisher, Parrot, and Scissor-tail-Revolution—
Buenos Ayres-State of Government.

CHAPTER VIII.

Excursion to Colonia del Sacramiento-Value of an Estancia-
Cattle, how counted-Singular Breed of Oxen-Perforated
Pebbles-Shepherd-Dogs-Horses broken-in, Gauchos Riding-
Character of Inhabitants-Rio Plata-Flocks of Butterflies-
Aeronaut Spiders-Phosphorescence of the Sea-Port Desire-
Guanaco-Port St. Julian-Geology of Patagonia-Fossil gigantic
Animal-Types of Organization constant-Change in the Zoology
of America-Causes of Extinction

CHAPTER IX.

Santa Cruz-Expedition up the River-Indians-Immense Streams
of Basaltic Lava-Fragments not transported by the River-
Excavation of the Valley-Condor, habits of-Cordillera-Erratic
Boulders of great size-Indian Relics-Return to the Ship-Falk-
land Islands-Wild Horses, Cattle, Rabbits-Wolf-like Fox-Fire
made of Bones-Manner of hunting Wild Cattle-Geology—
Streams of Stones-Scenes of Violence-Penguin-Gecse-Eggs
of Doris-Compound Animals .

CHAPTER X.

Tierra del Fuego, first arrival-Good Success Bay-An Account of
the Fuegians on board-Interview with the Savages-Scenery of
the Forests-Cape Horn-Wigwam Cove-Miserable Condition
of the Savages-Famines - Cannibals - Matricide-Religious
Feelings-Great Gale-Beagle Channel-Ponsonby Sound-Build
Wigwams and settle the Fuegians-Bifurcation of the Beagle
Channel-Glaciers-Return to the Ship-Second Visit in the
Ship to the Settlement-Equality of Condition amongst the
Natives.

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176

217

249

CHAPTER XI.

Strait of Magellan-Port Famine-Ascent of Mount Tarn-Forests
- Edible Fungus - Zoology- Great Sea-weed-Leave Tierra
del Fuego-Climate-Fruit Trees and Productions of the Southern
Coasts- Height of Snow-line on the Cordillera - Descent of
Glaciers to the Sea-Icebergs formed-Transportal of Boulders-
Climate and Productions of the Antarctic Islands-Preservation of
Frozen Carcases-Recapitulation

281

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

Valparaiso-Excursion to the Foot of the Andes-Structure of the
Land-Ascend the Bell of Quillota-Shattered Masses of Green-
stone-Immense Valleys-Mines-State of Miners-Santiago-
Hot-baths of Cauquenes-Gold-mines - Grinding-mills - Per-
forated Stones-Habits of the Puma-El Turco and Tapacolo-
Humming-birds

CHAPTER XIII.

Chiloe-General Aspect--Boat Excursion-Native Indians-Castro
-Tame Fox-Ascend San Pedro-Chonos Archipelago-Penin-
sula of Tres Montes-Granitic Range-Boat-wrecked Sailors-
Low's Harbour-Wild Potato-Formation of Peat-Myopotamus,
Otter and Mice-Cheucau and Barking-bird-Opetiorhynchus-
Singular Character of Ornithology-Petrels

CHAPTER XIV.

San Carlos, Chiloe-Osorno in eruption, contemporaneously with
Aconcagua and Coseguina-Ride to Cucao-Impenetrable Forests-
Valdivia-Indians-Earthquake-Concepcion-Great Earthquake
-Rocks fissured-Appearance of the former Towns-The Sea
black and boiling-Direction of the Vibrations-Stones twisted
round-Great Wave-Permanent Elevation of the Land-Area of
volcanic Phenomena-The Connexion between the elevatory and
eruptive Forces-Cause of Earthquakes-Slow Elevation of Moun-
tain-chains

CHAPTER XV.

Valparaiso-Portillo Pass-Sagacity of Mules-Mountain Torrents
-Mines, how discovered-Proofs of the gradual Elevation of the
Cordillera-Effect of Snow on Rocks-Geological Structure of the
two main Ranges-Their distinct Origin and Upheaval-Great
Subsidence-Red Snow-Winds-Pinnacles of Snow-Dry and
clear Atmosphere-Electricity-Pampas-Zoology of the opposite
Sides of the Andes-Locusts-Great Bugs-Mendoza-Uspallata
Pass-Silicified Trees buried as they grew-Incas Bridge-Badness
of the Passes exaggerated-Cumbre-Casuchas-Valparaiso.

CHAPTER XVI.

Coast-road to Coquimbo-Great Loads carried by the Miners—
Coquimbo-Earthquake-Step-formed Terraces-Absence of recent
Deposits-Contemporaneousness of the Tertiary Formations
Excursion up the Valley-Road to Guasco-Deserts-Valley of
Copiapó-Rain and Earthquakes-Hydrophobia-The Despoblado
-Indian Ruins-Probable Change of Climate-River-bed arched
by an Earthquake-Cold Gales of Wind-Noises from a Hill-
Iquique-Salt Alluvium-Nitrate of Soda-Lima-Unhealthy
Country-Ruins of Callao, overthrown by an Earthquake-Recent
Subsidence-Elevated Shells on San Lorenzo, their Decomposition
Plain with embedded Shells and Fragments of Pottery-Antiquity
of the Indian Race.

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