POULTRY LESSONS

I. IMPROVING THE QUALITY OF POULTRY

JAMES E. RICE

We should aim to retain purity of breed and vigor of our stock, and to have high-grade market quality in our poultry and eggs. By so doing,

A flock of miscellaneous colors and types such as is often found on the average farm. Cockerels of this sort are of no value as breeders and are poor ornaments

the profits may be greatly increased and the losses reduced because the selling value of the product will be increased. We shall also get more pleasure and satisfaction out of

our occupation because we shall take pride in the improvement made.

The

difference in price between poultry and eggs that are attractive and those that are unattractive is enough to warrant great care in breeding for improved quality.

Some of the reasons why pure-bred poultry is more desirable than common stock are: 1. Pure-bred fowls lay eggs that are more uniform in size, shape, color, and texture of shell. Uniform eggs sell for a higher price. 2. They are more likely to breed true, that is, the chickens will grow up to be like their parents. 3. They are more uniform in shape and size of body and in color of skin and shanks, therefore more attractive and more profitable when placed on sale. 4. They are more attractive as a flock, because they are similar in appearance. It is worth while to keep poultry that

furnish a larger income because eggs for hatching and stock for breeding can be sold at prices considerably higher than for market pur6. They are poses. more satisfactory, because, other things being equal, they may be expected to give better results in feeding, hatching, and rearing, due to the fact that

Note the beauty

they are more nearly alike as to rate of growth, size, temperament, activity, and the like.

What can we do to improve our poultry?-Any boy or girl who is old enough to take care of chickens can improve the quality of poultry in two ways: First, by keeping only pure-bred stock and by selecting, mating, and taking proper care of them; second, by selecting and using only the right kind of eggs for hatching. Both of these things should be done, but either one alone will be likely to result in sufficient improvement to warrant the effort of doing it. We should keep a pure breed instead of common mongrel fowls. This is within the reach of all. It is neither difficult nor expensive to secure in any neighborhood a few pure-bred fowls or their eggs. With these a small start can be made. Each year more and more pure-bred chickens can be reared to take the place of the common fowls until all the flock are pure-bred.

Find out for yourself, by trying, whether it will pay better to have a pure breed of poultry. Remember, however, that not all pure-bred fowls are good fowls. Whether we have pure-bred or mongrel stock they must be strong, vigorous, and healthy.

II. SELECTING AND KEEPING EGGS FOR HATCHING

JAMES E. RICE

One of the easiest ways to increase the money-earning value of poultry is to improve the quality of their eggs. The best customers usually are willing to pay a higher price for eggs of superior quality. Frequently this difference in price is as high as five to ten cents a dozen. Each hen in a good flock should lay on the average ten to eleven dozen eggs a year. If the eggs are of such quality that they will sell for even two cents more a dozen than ordinary eggs, this would mean a net difference of about twentyfive cents a hen in a year. This extra price is nearly all clear profit, due to the uniformity in size, shape, and color of the eggs.

The eggs that bring the highest price will depend somewhat on the market (see Lesson XI). We must first find out what kind of eggs will bring the highest price and pay the largest profit in our market, and then produce that kind only.

There are several things that we can do which will help to improve the selling quality of the eggs:

1. We should keep a pure breed of poultry that will lay eggs as nearly as possible the right size, shape, and color to meet the requirements of our market. Such fowls cost little, if any, more to keep than fowls that lay an inferior quality of eggs.

2. Only those eggs should be used for hatching that are of best market. type as to size, color, and texture. Pure-bred fowls will be likely to lay eggs similar to the eggs from which they were hatched. In other words,

the kind of eggs we select for hatching will determine the kind of eggs that will be laid by the chickens that are hatched from the eggs.

When eggs from the same variety of fowls are compared, the size of an egg apparently determines to a considerable extent the size of the chicken that will hatch from it. Therefore, if we wish to have chickens of good size we must set good-sized eggs. Hence, we see that there are at least two good reasons why all the eggs that are selected for hatching should be full size, perfect in shape, and of the right color and texture. Eggs for hatching should weigh at exceed two and one-half ounces each.

least two ounces and should not They should be perfect in shape so that they will pack well in the shipping case, that is, so that they will

Groups of eggs showing the various sizes and shapes that are obtained from almost any flock. All the eggs in the same row were laid by one hen. Note that the eggs laid by one hen have a characteristic shape. Only uniformly shaped eggs should be marked as first class

fill the compartments without danger of breakage from top or side pressure. They should be uniform in color, that is, each egg should be of one color and the right color over its entire surface, and all the eggs should be of the same color. The two colors that are most in demand are pure white and pure brown. There are many degrees of white and of brown in eggs, which will be seen only when the eggs are carefully examined in a good light.

The texture of the egg shell should be smooth, hard, and free from transparent spots when examined with a tester. Eggs having defective shells are not so likely to hatch well or to produce strong chickens.

Eggs for hatching should be kept in a moist, cool place not over 50° to 60°, and for not more than a week or ten days if it can be avoided. They should be turned every day or two, and should be kept covered so as to prevent too rapid evaporation.

Selecting eggs for hatching is interesting and useful work for any boy or girl to do. It will also prove profitable work. How many will do it and do it well?

III. HATCHING THE EGGS

CLARA M. NIXON

Every one who has tried to set and care for a hen so that a good brood of healthy chickens will hatch, knows that it is no slight task. We need education for this as well as for other lines of work. Let us see what we can learn in the following lesson:

The hen. You will probably have the hen all ready to receive the eggs when they arrive. She should be of moderate size. If too heavy, she may break the eggs; if too small, she can cover a few only. She should be quiet and peaceable, a hen that may be handled without being frightened, and one that is likely to pay strict attention to business.

Do not trust the hen with valuable eggs until you are sure she intends to sit. It will be better to give her two or three other eggs (china eggs will do) and let her sit on these for two or three days. She will probably be more contented on the nest she has chosen for herself, if it be a suitable

one.

In case you must change the hen to another place, go quietly after dark, lift her gently, and put her on the nest that has been prepared. Give her two or three eggs, one at a time, and let her place them under her breast as best pleases her. If she clucks contentedly, and snuggles the eggs cozily under her feathers, she will usually sit on this nest. It is best, however, to put a crate or well ventilated box over the nest. The top should be high enough not to disturb her while sitting, but not high enough to allow her to stand comfortably. If she sits quietly for two or three days, she will probably stay, and

you may give her the eggs. Keep the crate over her for a few days longer, allowing her to get off the nest every day for exercise, food, and water, but have her go back in a reasonable time.

The nest.- Have the nest comfortable, clean, and free from lice. It should be large enough for the hen to change her position on the nest and to turn her eggs, but not so large that the eggs will move out of the warm hollow under her breast. First, place some earth in the bottom of the box, then enough bright

Sitting hens should be separated from the rest of the flock and placed in some quiet, cool retreat

clean hay to make a good nest; the hen will fix the curve of the nest to suit herself. She feels safer in a somewhat dark, secluded place, and it is best to humor her.

Care of the hen.- The hen has undertaken a very confining task, which will last three weeks. This is a long time. For twenty-one days and nights the patient hen must stay in almost the same position. If you do not think this is tiresome, watch her when she first comes off the nest. She can scarcely stand. The least we can do is to have things as well prepared for her comfort as we can. Plenty of whole grain (corn and wheat are best), clean, fresh water, grit, and a dust bath should be placed where she can reach them, and she should be allowed to exercise every day if she wishes. Be sure to dust a little insect powder into her feathers occasionally. This is a wise precaution, even if you do not find any lice. In case she should break an egg, clean up the nest as well as you can, and wash off the badly smeared eggs in lukewarm water. They will not be likely to hatch if not cleaned.

If the hen seems irritable when the eggs begin to hatch, the oldest chickens may be taken from the nest as soon as they try to get from under the hen, wrapped in a piece of flannel, and kept in a warm place until the others are out. This will keep the hen more quiet, and she will not be likely to kill the younger chickens in the nest, or to leave the nest before the remaining eggs are hatched. If the hen is quiet, it is best not to disturb her while the eggs are hatching. The nest box must be deep enough to prevent the chickens from jumping out.

With careful attention to the instruction given, you should have good success with the eggs.

IV. BROODING AND CARE OF THE CHICKENS

CLARA M. NIXON

When the eggs are hatched, as they should be by the end of the twentyfirst day, take the hen and chickens from the nest and put them in the coop you have prepared for them.

The coop. The coop should be large enough so that the hen can move about, and high enough so that she will not strike her head. If it has no floor, set the coop on a platform of boards. This will help to keep out the rats and weasels, as well as to keep the coop dry. The separate floor is more easily cleaned and dried. The coop should be slatted in front, but closed on the other sides; it should have a roof that will keep out the rain. It should face the south and be placed on clean land on which no chickens have recently been reared. This is a precaution against disease. Everything should be clean, thoroughly disinfected with a coat of whitewash, and kept dry. Dampness is fatal to young chickens.