ΤΟ

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL OF RIPON.

MY LORD,

Your Lordship was Secretary of State for the Colonies when the Expedition, of which the following is the Narrative, was organized; and to your good offices, and liberal subscription in its favour, the success of the project was at that time mainly due. I have ventured, in consequence, to dedicate to you the volume; and am most happy in being thus enabled to express some part of the sincere respect with which I have the honour to be,

My Lord,

Your Lordship's most obedient

and very humble servant,

GEORGE BACK.

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER,

CONTENTS.

Page 9

-

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England.-Arrival at Montreal.-Preparations for the

Expedition.-Fire at the Hotel.-Departure from La Chine.-The St.

Lawrence. The Ottawa.-Lake Huron.-The Sault de Ste. Marie.-

Arrival at Fort William.-Distribution of the Loadings.-The Moun-

tain Fall.-Lac de la Pluie.-Arrival at Fort Alexander.-Magnetic

Observations.-Arrival of Governor Simpson, and Arrangements made

by him.-Arrival at Norway House.-Difficulty of procuring men for

the Service.-Departure from Norway House,

CHAPTER II.

29

Commencement of the Expedition.-Interview with Mr. Charles.-Wind-

bound by a Land Gale.-A Receipt for the Cure of "Blue Devils."-

Description of a Voyageur's Tent.-A Land Storm.-The Grand Rapid.

-Advance of Cultivation.-Arrival at Cumberland House.-Departure

of the Bateaux under Mr. King.-Embark in a Canoe.-Working of

the Boats in the Rapids.-Isle à la Crosse.-Buffalo Lake.-A Squall.

-A Skunk.-Portage la Loche.-Effect of the Scenery.-Interview

with Mr. Stewart and Mr. A. M'Leod.-The latter volunteers to ac-

company the Expedition.-Arrive at Fort Chipewyan.-Information as

to the supposed Route by the Fond du Lac.-Journey resumed.—Salt

River. Sketch of a Party of Indians.-Description of the Salt Springs.-

Indian Encampment.-Information of the Natives as to the Rivers

Thlew-ee-choh and Teh-lon.-Arrival at Fort Resolution,

CHAPTER III.

52

Inquiries and Embarrassments about the Route.-Preparations for Depar-

ture.-Embark in search of the Thlew-ee-choh.-Indian Encampment

and Indian Politeness.-Point of Honour among Indian Hunters.-De-

scription of the Country through which the Route lay.-A small Iceberg

seen.-A Bear Hunt.-Indian Inconsistency.-Description of the Coast

Line.-Point Keith and Christie's Bay.-Eastern Extremity of Great

Slave Lake.-Discovery of the River supposed to lead towards the

Thlew-ee-choh.-Preparations to ascend it.
71

CHAPTER IV.

Difficult and toilsome Ascent of Hoar Frost River.-Striking Scenery

along its Course.-Illness of the Interpreter.-Encampment upon Cook's

Lake.-Ascent of another small River full of Rapids.-Desertion of

Two Indians.-Perplexity of the Guide as to the Proper Course, and

Attempt to desert. Succession of Streams and Lakes.-Indian Account

of the The-lew or Teh-lon.-Clinton-Colden, Aylmer, and Sussex

Lakes.-Discovery of the Thlew-ee-choh,

CHAPTER V.

Digression concerning Hearne's Route,

CHAPTER VI.

92

115

Continue our Progress.-Rocks on the Thlew-ee-choh.-Island of singular

Appearance.-Musk-Ox Lake.-Conjectures on the Course of the

Thiew-ee-choh.-Icy River.-Appearance of two Indians.-Maufelly

permitted to visit his Wife.-Consummate Skill of De Charlôit.—

Dwarf Pines.-Story of the Rat and the Beaver.-Unfitness of the

Trees for Planks.-Artillery Lake.-Force of the Rapids.-Accident in

our Passage.-Leave the Ah-hel-dessy.-A Bear Killed.-Ridiculous

Story.-March Resumed.-Desolate Scenery.-A Deer shot.-Tor-

mented by Sand-flies.-Anecdote of Sir John Franklin.-Meeting with

Mr. M‘Leod, by an unexpected Route,
124

CHAPTER VII.

Le grand jeune Homme."-Trade with the Indians.-Sunday.-Mr.

King arrives, with two Bateaux.-Performed a Surgical Operation.-

Discomforts of an Indian Canoe.-Conduct of the Party.-Erection of

new Dwelling.-Arrival of Indians.-Their Policy.-Aged Indian Wo-

man.-Starving Visiters.-Case of Revenge for Inhospitality.-The

Thlew-ee-choh described.-Observatory.-Strange Appearance of the

Aurora. Pouring in of the Indians.-Superstitious Fancies.-Shortness

of Food.-Domiciled in the new Building, named Fort Reliance.-Sup-

plies again fail.-Akaitcho.-Discharge of De Charlôit and Two Iro-

quois; also, of La Charité.-Gloom of the Indians.-Story of a young

Hunter.-Breach of Indian Law.-Death of the old Woman.-Christ-

mas-day. Short Allowance.-Experiments.-Excessive Cold.-Arri-

val of Mr. M'Leod.-Barbarous Atrocity.-Revolting Story of an In-

dian,

144

CHAPTER VIII.

Exemplary Conduct of Akaitcho.-Mr. M'Leod and his Family leave us.

-Arrival of Maufelly. Supply of Deer-flesh.-Misunderstanding be-

tween Akaitcho and the Interpreter.-Preparation for building Two

Boats. Mr. M'Leod's ill Success.-Strange Conduct of Two Indians.

-Supply of Food.-Distressing Condition of Mr. M'Leod.-Return of

Mr. King's Party.-News from York Factory.-Uncertain Fate of Au-

gustus.-Presence of Two Ravens.-Ravens shot by an Iroquois.-

News from England.-Discharge of Three Men.-Alteration of Plans.

-Appearance of Birds.-Adventures by Mr. King.-Arrival of Mr.

M'Leod.-Anxiety about Williamson.-Sultry Weather.-Melancholy

Fate of Augustus,

CHAPTER IX.

179

Reflections.-Halt for the Night.-March resumed.-Obstacles encoun-

tered. The Boats finished.-Eastern Shore of Artillery Lake.-Pursue

the Track of Mr. M'Leod. Two Deer Shot.-Stunted Pines.-En-

campment.-Difficnlty in tracing our Route.-News from Mr. M'Leod.

-A Snow Storm.-Fires Lighted on the Hills.-Accident to Peter

Taylor.-Deviate from our Course.-Accident to James Spence.-Bois-

terous Weather.-Plunder of a Cache.-Find the runaway Guides.-

The Ice Unsafe. Enter upon Lake Aylmer.-A dense Fog.-Sand-

hill Bay. Judicial Investigation.-Animals.-Musk-ox Rapid. Join

Mr. McLeod.-Survey of the River.-Indians return with the Fommi-

can.-Stock of Provisions.-An Indian Belle.-A Reindeer Hunt, 198

CHAPTER X.

Instructions to Mr. M'Leod upon our Separation.-Meet with Akaitcho.

His Lodge.-Imminent Danger to the Boat-Akaitcho's friendly Cau-

tion.-Embarkation.-Heavy Storms.-Our Crew.-Geological Fea-

tures of the Country.-Obstructions from the Ice.-Perils from a Series

of Rapids.-Plunder of a Bag of Pemmican.-Obstacles on our Pass-

age. Boisterous Weather.-Deer Hunting.—Observations.-Deviation

of the River.-Desolate Scenery.-Detained by the Ice.-Cascades.—

Land-Marks.-Contraction of the River.-Baillie's River.-Flocks of

Geese.-Tact Requisite in Command.-Precipitous Rocks.-A Fox.-

Esquimaux Marks.-Bullen River.-A Storm.-Lake Pelly.-Conjec-

tures of an Indian.-Encampment.-View of the Country.-Further

Obstructions.-Observations.-Lake Garry,

CHAPTER XI.

236

Gigantic Boulders.-Danger from the Rapids.-Course of the River.—

Lake Macdougall.-Hazardous Passage.-Sinclair's Falls.-Northerly

Bend of the River.-Mount Meadowbank.-Altitude of the Rocks.-

The Trap Formation.-M'Kay's Peak.-Lake Franklin.-Extrication

from Peril.-Sluggishness of the Compass.-Esquimaux.-Portrait of

a Female.-Victoria Headland.-Mouth of the Thlew-ec-choh.-Cock-