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“Why, muckle weel,” replied the Highlander. “But when the Swede was telling o' his cataract, Colin could have told him o' the falls of Glomma, in the heights Glen Elcknig, in Rosshire, as a match for his fall at Gottenberg, I think he ca'd it; 'tis sae surrounded by rocks and woods, that scarce ken it, unless ye be quite near to it; and its very grand, I do assure ye.”
DR. WALKER." You should have told us of this fall, Colio, when we were in Scotland; we would have seen it.”
On the following morning, our travellers took a survey of the city of Stockholm, which stands in a singular situation between an inlet of the Baltic, and the lake Mælar. It occupies seven small rocky islands, and the scenery is truly singular and romantic. Most of the houses are of stune, or brick covered with stucco; except in the suburbs, where they are composed of wood, painted red; and this is indeed the material most commonly applied to the construction of dwelling houses in Sweden. The city was founded by Earl Bir. ger, regent of the kingdom about the middle of the thirteenth century. Besides the palace, Stockholm contains a castle, an arsenal, and several academies: its manufactures are not numerous, and its population may be estimated at about 80,000.
Edward was particularly struck by the dull uniformity of the Swedish dress. “ Are the people obliged to wear this unbecoming dress ?" said he, to his tutor. " Why, gentle and simple are all dressed in the same style, only that I
perceive the superior orders wear clothes of a finer texture.”
DR. WALKER.-" Is not that the case everywhere. But here it is more observed, because black is the prevailing colour.
In the year 1777, a national dress was established, for the purpose of suppressing luxury in that article. The men, as you see, wear a close coat, very wide under cloaths, strings in their shoes, a girdle, a round hat, and a cloak ,and the usual colour is black. The women also wear a black robe, with puffed gauze sleeves, and coloured sash and ribbon. There is also a particular uniform for gala days, when the men appear in blue sattin, lined with white, and ornamented with lace: and then the ladies sport white sattin dresses, adorned with coloured ribbons. But still these gay
, est assemblies present a monotonous coup d'oeil, compared to the gay variety presented in a London ball-room.”
Upon returning to their inn, they were quite ready for their clinner, which was served in great profusion; previous to which, they were presented with bread and butter, and a small glass of brandy.
“ As a citizen of the world, Edward,” said the Doctor,
you are not to express surprize at any custom, however singular, you may meet with : put your lips to the glass : when at Rome, you may be presented with ice, instead of brandy, as a luxury: both these customs arise from the same cause, the temperature of the different climates. We will, after dinner, visit the arsenal, where, I understand, the cloaths which Charles the Twelfth wore at the time he was killed, are preserved with great care."
EDWARD.-" I believe there are many doubts, Sir, respecting the author of his death; are there not ?"
Dr. WALKER.-"So many, that the affair has never been satisfactorily determined. Indeed the enquiries at the time the fatal'affair took place, were few; and the prince of Hesse, his brother-in-law, appears to have been very luke. warm in ascertaining the cause or causes of the death of so near a relative. All passed without noise or tumult.”
Upon examining the cloaths attentively, which were exhibited to them, they perceived that the hat is torn about an inch square, in that part which covered the temple; the right
, hand glove, which is of soft leather, is covered with blood, and at that part where the handle or hilt of his sword lay; the belt is likewise bloody: he therefore must have put his hand to his head, previously to grasping his sword, for he was wounded in the temple alone. His coat was a common blue regimental one, such as every soldier wore; and round his waist was the broad buff leather belt, in which he hung his sword.
JOURNEY TO UPSAL.,
“ Now then for Upsal," said Dr. Walker; " for there appears nothing peculiarly interesting in Stockholm." And accordingly our travellers recommenced their journey.
Through a long avenue of stately firs, the view of Upsal, the ancient metropolis of Sweden, opened upon our travellers, with its royal palace towering above the other edifices. The city itself, which has a very noble appearance on its approach, is neat rather than elegant, and contains fewer wooden houses than most other towns in that kingdom. The scenery along the gulph of Bothnia to Sundswall is beautiful, and varied between the wooded borders of the sea and the inland lakes. Beyond Sundswall the country becomes somewhat alpine, and our travellers were enchanted with the vary.-ing beauties of the landscape: they had never travelled with more amusement; words could give no idea of the changeful scenery; hills, mountains, valleys, forests, lakes, islands, rocks, rivers, cataracts; in short, every feature of nature that the poet or painter can picture to his imagination, or wish to delineate.
Having letters of introduction to a gentleman, who had a large property in the iron mines, he gave them a most friendly reception, and begged they would make his house their home, during their stay at Upsal. Dr. Walker accepted his offer with thanks, and they had thus an opportunity of observing the manners of the people. The Swedish character varies materially in the different provinces. The Scandian is cheerful and hospitable, the Smalander is humble, mild, and submissive; placed amidst barren rocks, and uncultivated wilds, he is easily satisfied, and grateful for the smallest rewards that may be offered for his services. The Ostrogoth resembles the soil on which he is placed, which presents the most pleasing pictures. The Finlander is most laborious, and capable of enduring great hardships; but is somewhat obstinate. The Dalecarlians are bold, independent, and enduring. Such are the principal features of the Swedish character.
Having procured an open carriage, our travellers proposed starting at nine o'clock, for the mines of Dannemora. Upon
Tooking out of their wiodow, they saw Colin very busy fastening the horses in the usual Swedish style, with ropes to the carriage: upon entering the room, he protested, that he wished much they had brought harness with them; for he thought "in gude truth they'd a' be killed, for the ropes were muckle awkward gear.”
“ Never mind, Colin,” replied the Doctor, “ the horses, though small, are like your own Shetland ponies, strong; and the roads, though narrow, are good: sv I dare say we shall do very well.”
They travelled in a neat little waggon quite new, without springs, in shape like a shoe placed upon wheels, with the beel foremost, the toe being the receptacle for beds, provisions, and baggage. In any country but Sweden, such a vehicle would not promise much comfort or convenience ; but there, from the excellence of the roads, and the consequent facility of travelling, our travellers found it one of the most convenient in which they had ever been engaged. Ini this manner they proceeded through Upsal; and arriving in a small village about nine o'clock in the evening, they were obliged to wait for post- horses, although their Swedish ser. vant had been sent on before to procure them.
The village consisted of three or four filthy looking wooden huts, into which, from apprehensions of the same disgusting dirtiness that they had met with in former receptacles of the same kind, they did not choose to enter, but preferred sitting without, on their luggage. At length they asked for something to eat. To their great surprize, they were immediately conducted into a peat small room, having the floor strewed with juniper, according to the custom of the country; a table stood covered with a white damask cloth, garnished with napkins, silver handled knives and forks, silver spoons, and various other implements of luxury. Here they were regaled with soup, cutlets, and a variety of very delicate viands, beginning and ending their repast with French brandy; and they left the house, wondering much at the moderate recompense demanded by their civil host, but especially at the unexpected cleanliness of their accommodations, and the extraordinary sumptuousness of their fare.
If the sovereigns of Europe were to be designated each by some title characteristic of the nature of their dominions, we might call the Swedish monarch, Lord of the woods ; because, in surveying his territories, he might travel over a
great part of his kingdom from sun-rise until sun-set, and find no other subjects than the trees of his forests. The population is every where small, because the whole country is covered with wood.
Having sent on a messenger to procure horses, they at length set off. The fields being divided by a wooden paling, travelling through this country could not present that domestic sort of scenery, which is produced by close hedgerow elms, which meet the eye on every side in England. Colin pointed to the pales wiih disgust; but every now and then, as the road wound through the defiles of the mountains, his countenance brightened, as his native wilds arose to his imagination ; and once he sighed and hummed the thrill. ing air of “ Lochaber no more.” Why, Colin,” said the Doctor, “ I am afraid you wish yourself at home.” Colin shook his head, but made no other answer; he appeared indeed to be absorbed in the recollection of home, and his master did not repeat his question.
THE SIINES OF SWEDEN.
As they drew near the immediate neighbourhood of Donamora, the road became more level, and at length almost assumed the appearance of a plain. Having refreshed them. selves at one of the villages in its vicinity, they procured a. guide, and at length drew near the enormous mountainous mine of Donamora. It is in depth eighty fathoms, and it occupies a considerable extent of territory: its ore is conveyed to the surface of the earth, through several pits or openings made for that purpose, by means of casks fixed to large cables, which are put in motion by horses. The workmen, standing on the edges of these casks, and, clasping the cables, descend and ascend with the greatest composure. Edward asked, rather anxiously, “if they were to descend in that style." “ Why I fear," replied the Doctor, “our heads would grow a little giddy by such a manœuvre, and therefore we shall perhaps be accommodated with a station within the bucket. Do you observe that enormous wheel,