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SECTION VIII.

JOURNEY CONTINUED.

Or all the spots that surround Geneva, the inn kept by M. Degion is perhaps one of the finest. The gardens combine every thing that is delightful; the sweetest flowers, the most delicious fruits, and the richest scenery are here intermingled. The road from Geneva to the little village of Secheron, in which it stands, presents one continued scene or rural beauty, where the botanist will find ample scope for exercising his genius and his taste. The Genevans excel in music; they have their balls and card assemblies, and on a Sunday the public walks recall to the English traveller the splendour displayed in Kensington Gardens.

Dr. Walker and his pupil having retraced their steps in a northern direction, till they came to Aubonne; they traversed a beautiful country, and upon arriving at the pretty village of Cossonee, they spent one day there. Mont Blanc is seen from this neighbourhood rising from an amphitheatre of hill in Savoy, and in the distance three glaciers lift their towering heads above the surrounding Alps, viz. the Mont d'Or in Italy; the Jungfrau, or Virgin's Horn; and Wetterhorn, or the Stormy Peak; which divide Berne from La Valais.

"I suppose, Sir," said the landlord of the little inn at which they stopped, "you visited those mountains?" "No," replied the Doctor, we did not."

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"Then, perhaps" replied the inn-keeper, " you have not seen as grand a sight as any in Switzerland. The Wetterhorn is covered with perpetual snow many hundred feet deep; and its enormous sides abound in glaciers, and about half way up, there are two most enormous chasms that are formed in a valley of ice, about four miles in circumference. Near four hundred feet beyond them rushes a torrent of water, issuing from a huge glacier. The top of Wetterhorn has, I believe, never been ascended, nor that of the Jungfranhorn, which is in its neighbourhood. There is a mountain directly under the Wetterhorn, called Scheidek, on which are placed two cottages, both destined for the purpose of making cheese. These cottages are called challeys, and

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contain only two rooms: one is allotted to the family, the other to the cows. At each of these cottages there are a hundred cows."

"Is it not surprising that they should find provender for so many cows in such a neighbourhood?" said Edward.

"You must have observed, Sir," replied the man, "that vegetation is particularly luxuriant in the valleys, and even round the foot of the steepest mountains whose tops are covered with snow in this country. The way of making the cheese is this: when the milk is turned, a man puts his arm into the copper, and with a wand breaks the curd; he then draws up the cloth. In this manner a cheese of a hundred pounds weight is taken up; and when it has lain three or four days in the vat, they rub it with salt."

From Cossonee they proceeded to Oraes, and from thence to Yverdun, which commands a fine prospect of the lake of Neufchatel. This place was built originally by the Romans; and medals of Augustus and Julian the Apostate, are found in its neighbourhood. There are medicinal baths a short distance from the town, to which many of the principal families from Berne resort in the summer months.

Switzerland is subject to violent storms of hail, which destroy in a few hours the hopes of the farmer and the peasant. The most promising vintage and harvest are often completely cut off. The houses are unroofed by the violence of the wind; and the whole country laid desolate. The fruit trees are sometimes so much injured, that they will not bear for three or four years afterwards. The natives have a curious way of preserving fruit for the winter. They cut it in slices and dry it in the sun, it is then put into wooden cases, and in this state it can be preserved for twenty years. By pouring a little warm water over it, it becomes as fresh as when it was gathered. From Yverdun they had a most delightful journey to Neufchatel, through a number of pleasant villages. That of Colombier, in which the houses are all white, with little gilt balconies projecting from the centre, filled with flowers, is particularly attractive. Each house stands in a garden and the middle of the town has a splendid view of Mount Jura, and commands the whole of the lake, it being placed upon a peninsula, which stretches itself into the calm blue water. The Jura Mountains are here cultivated as high as human footsteps can attain. Travelling in this part of Switzerland is particularly agreeable, for the roads are good, and so broad

as to admit three carriages abreast, while on every side objects, either of beauty or grandeur, arrest the attention. The town of Neufchatel is seated in the midst of vineyards, meadows, and woods. Mont Blanc still crowns the south-eastern horizon, while to the west the Jura forms the boundary of sight. The people of Neufchatel are fond of balls and parties, which are upon the same plan as those of Berne. The minister has the power of compelling those who have committed any fault which comes under his jurisdiction, to appear before the whole congregation, and to pay a fine according to the offence: no respect is paid on these occasions either to sex or rank. The merchants of this town are very wealthy; the taxes are moderate, and the government democratic. This canton is extremely populous, and it contains plenty of game and wild fowl. The Jura, about Geneva, abounds in sloping declivities, and affords the most delightful pasturage for cattle: in the vicinity of Soleure it produces a great variety of stones of different forms, hexagonal and pentagonal, the polish of which is so uncommon, as to be supposed the work of art. Others are marked with petrified fish. This mountain contains also mines of lead and iron; and about Neufchatel they present the most magnificent and picturesque scenery. Our travellers continuing their journey in a northern direction, arrived at the pretty village of St. Blaise, and from thence crossing a small river which joins the Lakes of Neufchatel and Bienne, they took up their quarters at Cerlier, from whence they had an extensive view of the lake of Bienne and the island of Rousseau. Having hired a little boat to take them to this island, they soon reached the spot where Rousseau retired in the year 1765, when he was driven from Paris. There is but one house in the island, and that was formerly a convent; it was erected in the third century by a monk of Belmont. His successors, however, becoming very depraved, and being accused of the murder of Duke William of Payerne and his son, they were expelled.

In a small apartment of this solitary house, which was occupied by Rousseau, the names. of innumerable visitors are engraved, and many poetic effusions adorn the simple walls. The furniture is still preserved which he used, the table, chairs, and the little bed he slept on; the old-fashioned counterpane, and the looking-glass over which he used to throw a towel, all remain, and are shewn with profound veneration to every visitor. At a short distance is another

island, on which there is but one tree, which he used to compare to himself.

Having wandered for some time in this enchanting spot they reluctantly took leave of it, and returned to Ceslier. Upon arriving at Bienne, they did but stay just to refresh themselves, and from thence proceeded to the celebrated Pierre Pertius, through which a road is broken, sixty six feet long, and thirty high. Above the arch a Roman inscription, although much defaced, is still visible; but what remains is sufficient to prove that it was cut by a chief of the Helvetic colony. As this arch is overhung with wood, it has the appearance of a gloomy cavern, as it is approached. They now entered the canton of Saleure, and having passed through the capital, which presents no object particularly interesting, they were surprised at the sight of a wooden bridge over the Aar, four miles north of the town of Saleure. It is three hundred and seventy two feet long. A small river which joins the Aar, produces a great curiosity, namely, red craw fish, and they are sometimes served up as boiled in a deep dish to strangers, in order to astonish them.

On the road from Saleure to Basle, the rocks are adorned with many Roman ruins, overhung with ivy, that at Walburg is particularly fine. It is placed on a prodigious rock of a conical form, overhung with wood, composed of dark and beautiful firs, whose tops are often lost in the clouds. The few towers which remain are covered with ivy. This part of the Jura abounds in gold, silver and copper, and different kinds of mineral waters.

Basle is situated on the Rhine; it is one of the most considerable towns in Switzerland, and carries on a considerable manufacture in ribbons. Hans Holbein was a native of this place, and Erasmus died here, and was buried in its cathedral. Erasmus resided in Basle for some time, and it was from thence that he wrote to Pace, Dean of St. Paul's, that letter in which he said "he had no inclination to die for the sake of truth. 66. Every man," said he, "hath not the courage requisite to make a martyr; and I am afraid if I were put to the trial, I should imitate St. Peter." He was at first a warm advocate for the Reformation; but he afterwards became its violent opposer. The police of Basle is extremely strict. No dancing is allowed among the peasantry on Sunday, and all card parties separate at ten o'clock. Every individual, without any exception, is obliged to send his chil

dren to be examined twice a week by the clergyman of the parish, until they are ten years old, and then once a week till they receive the communion. At Easter and Whitsuntide, this ceremony generally takes place, when the girls, with their hair nicely plaited under neat white caps, frills round their necks, and little blue jackets, assemble with their parents, who are dressed in black at this solemn ceremony. The boys have their hair turned back, and their cloaths are made remarkably neat and plain.

CHAPTER XIV.

BANKS OF THE RHINE.

SECTION I.

JOURNEY ALONG THE RHINE.

DR. Walker and his pupil quitted Switzerland with regret. Upon crossing the Rhine, on their road to Freyburg, Dr. 'Walker asked Edward if he could describe the course of that noble river. "I will try what I can do, Sir," replied his pupil, and he began as follows.

"The Rhine has three sources in the country of the Grisons, which rise at the distance of some miles from each other, and are distinguished by the names of anterior, middle, and hinder Rhine; they unite not far distant from a place called Dessanti: from thence it runs in a north-east direction, till it reaches the Lake of Constance, impetuously rushing through its still waters, and issuing at Slerkborn. From the Lake it takes many meandering forms, and at length arrives at Basle. Its course then assumes a northern direction along the eastern borders of Alsace, till it receives the Maine a little below Frankfort, then proceeding northwestward, it enters the Netherlands, and falls into the German Ocean."

DR. WALKER." About a league from Schaufhausen,

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