at Lauffen, the Rhine falls in a tremendous cataract, from a rock said to be seventy feet high, and ninety paces in breadth. By the bye, at Schaufhausen there is also a very singular and beautiful bridge, which was built in the middle of the last century, by a common carpenter, called Ulric Grubenham. The rapidity of the Rhine had carried away several stone bridges built upon arches of the strongest construction. This man undertook to throw a single arch, of wood only, across the river, although it is three hundred feet wide. The magistrates insisted he should make it of two arches, and desired he would rest them upon the middle pier of the old bridge; the self-taught architect obeyed apparently, but he so constructed his wonderful arch, that it does not rest in the least upon the pier. A man of the slightest weight can feel this bridge tremble under him as he walks; but the heaviest waggons pass over it in safety, though the bridge appears almost to crack under the pressure. This wonderful piece of architecture is an astonishing example of the power of natural abilities; but it is not without a parallel. I remember when I was in South Wales, I was struck by a remarkable bridge over the Taaf, about twelve miles north of Caerphily in Glamorganshire. It consists of one arch, the segment of a circle; the chord is 140 feet; the key-stone, from the spring of the arch is 34 feet high. The architect was William Edward, who was living in the year 1773. He was a methodist preacher. Had the remains of such an arch been discovered among the ruins of Greece or Rome, what pains would be taken to discover the architect; whilst honest William Edward, if living, which is not very probable, remains unnoticed among his native mountains."

They continued their journey in a northern direction till they reached Rostat, from whence they continued their route to Philipsburg, which was captured by the Dauphin, eldest son of Louis XIV. Heidelburg was the next town which arrested their attention. It is situated in a hollow, on the banks of the Neckar, the country round it is exceedingly fertile, through which runs a fine chain of hills. The elec toral palace is seated on an eminence, which conmands the town, and a view of the valley below: the castle is, however, unfortunately commanded by a superior height, from whence the town was bombarded, by the ambitious Louis XIV. who laid this beautiful country desolate. Manheim shared the same fate; and as our travellers passed through this town

certain reflections arose in their minds, which redounded but little to the honour of Louis le Grand, or even to conquerors in general. The country, as they approached Mentz, became hilly and irregular, and the fine sloping banks which border the Rhine, displayed the rich luxuriance of the blushing vine. Every spot of ground is here highly cultivated, and the best Rhenish wines are made in this part of the country. The number of ecclesiastics which are met in the streets of Mentz at first astonished Edward. "You forget," said the Doctor, "this place belongs to the elector of Mentz, who is always an ecclesiastic of high rank; his court, therefore, is mostly composed of the clergy. He has soldiers indeed, but their appearance is not very military." In the neighbourhood of Mentz, the celebrated wine called hock is made. From Mentz they crossed an amazing long bridge, formed of a moveable platform, placed upon fifty-six lighters, two or three of which draw out with ease by means of ropes and pullies, to open a passage for vessels ascending or descending the Rhine. Having crossed this curious bridge, they entered Cassel; the residence of the landgrave of Hesse-Cassel, is situated on the river Fulda. The new parts are regular and handsome, the others are chiefly in the ancient style. It has fine gardens, a college, an academy of painting and sculpture, and a literary society, which has been chiefly occupied with the history and antiquities of Germany, particularly of Hesse. This city has many manufactures, and a great trade. Here they dined, and then resumed their journey, and after passing four miles of open country, they entered an avenue of walnut, apple, and pear trees, loaded with fruit, to which they were told by their postillion they might help themselves. After passing over a draw-bridge, and through a large gateway, they entered the city of Frankfort, which presented scenes more congenial to British feelings than those they had left at Mentz. Here all was hurry and bustle, caused by preparation for one of the annual fairs. The next morning the bootcleaner entered their chamber, at six o'clock, followed by the chambermaid, with a composition of frankincense and other gums, made up in a pyramidal form, and about an inch high; pastilles, in short, which she lighted, and placed upon their candlesticks, to perfume their room.

The number of Jews in Frankfort is prodigious; although they are subject to many severe restrictions. They live in

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one street, which has no thoroughfare, and the entrance is at night fast closed by a great iron gate. No jew is allowed to appear in the streets after a certain hour, and they are compelled to remain cooped up in this small place till the morning. Edward was extremely delighted with some excellent singing, which was executed by a set of boys and girls several days successively, opposite to the house next to the inn where they resided: "Do you not know," said the Doctor, that when a person of any consequence dies in Frankfort, these persons are employed to sing an hour every day till the corpse is interred." As the Doctor spoke, the funeral procession commanced, and the choiristers followed the hearse, chaunting a funeral hymn as they went along. Edward attended them, and returned home quite enchanted with the solemn vocal music which formed part of the funeral service. 1.

Dr. Walker had a letter of introduction to a German nobleman, and remained some time in this town. He attended their public assemblages, at which tea and cards form the entertainment. Society is here divided into two classes, noblesse and bourgeois, and these different ranks never mix with each other; many of the bourgeois are persons of the first respectability; but they lack that airy distinction of rank, and are therefore indiscriminately classed as bourgeois. Our travellers, however, were hospitably entertained by some of these worthy citizens. Among the winter amusements of this place, traineau parties are conspicuous. A traineau is a machine made in any fanciful figure, such as a swan, a deer, according to the fancy of the owner; this rests on a sledge, which is drawn by two horses, gaudily ornamented. Sometimes twenty or thirty traineaus will start at once, with servants on horseback, bearing torches. This amusement is common in many parts of Switzerland, as well as Germany.

From Frankfort they again directed their steps towards the Rhine; and after a pleasant journey, they arrived at Coblentz, where the Moselle falls into that river. Here they staid but one day, being anxious to reach Cologne. The course of the Rhine, from Mentz to Cologne, is romantic to a great degree. The river runs through wild rocks, crowned with majestic woods, and skirted with fertile vineyards. The beauty of this scenery drew forth expressions of admiration from our travellers, not excepting Colin, who declared he longed much to conclude their travels, that he might have

the pleasure of telling all he had seen to Jean, whom he had left behind.

"And who is Jean," enquired the Doctor; "I did not know you were married, Colin?" The Highlander shook his head, "Its like I will be, when I get hame.-Jean did na like me to quit her, and I didn't ken how much I lov'd her till I left her; but I think I hear the carriage-yes, there it is"—and he hurried out of the room, as if ashamed of his feelings.

"Colin appears a little home sick, I think," said the Doctor, "when we get to Holland he shall return to Scotland if he wishes it; I should be sorry to take him with us, if he really longs for his native glens."

Cologne is a large commercial city, seated on the west bank of the Rhine, by means of which it carries on a brisk trade with Holland and Germany. It is built in the form of a crescent, and is fortified in the ancient manner. On the opposite banks of the Rhine is the village of Dortz, where is a flying bridge of boats, which will admit 1500 persons, besides horses, and even carriages to pass at the same time. Rubens was a native of Cologne. They embarked in a passage boat for Dusseldorf. As they approached this place, the stream of the Rhine became more rapid, and the coun try less mountainous.

"Edward," said the Doctor," as the former pointed out the distant mountains of Germany, did you ever hear of the wonderful spectre of the Broken? It is an atmospheric deception of the most singular kind. When I was in Germany many years ago, I heard of this curious phenomenon,. and resolved, if possible, to witness it. After ascending, in vain, the mountain several days, I at length was gratified. It was very early in the morning, and upon looking to the south west, I perceived a huge gigantic figure approaching towards me. As I stood quite still, lest the delusion should vanish, I perceived the figure to halt likewise. Having gazed at it for some time, I suddenly put my hand to my head, in order to save my hat, which a violent gust of wind threatened to carry away to my great surprise the figure did the same; upon observing this, I put myself in various attitudes, and which were precisely imitated by the spectre. A traveller pas-sing by at some little distance, I hailed him, and pointing to the spectre, behold, two stood before us. I could but smile at the singularity of the appearance of these two gigantic figures.

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The traveller's shadow, or reflection, stood the picture of astonishment and terror, while mine, assumed I must confess, bordered on that of the ludicrous, for I laughed heartily. My companion turning round, and discovering that one of the spectres resembled me, pray, Sir," said he, " may ask if that terrified looking gentleman is the counterpart of me." "Just so," I replied, upon which he turned to make a bow, and as the spectre returned his salute, the spectre vanished. Sometimes this phenomenon was weaker, and sometimes stronger; but the outline was always well formed. A phenomenon of the same kind was witnessed at Wiltonhall, in Cumberland, against the mountain of Souter Fell. A farmer and his servant, sitting at the door, saw the figure of a man with a dog, pursuing some horses along the side of Souter, a place so steep, that a horse could scarcely travel quietly on it. They all appeared to run with incredible swiftness, till they came to the end of the Fell. The following morning they ascended the mountain to seek for the body of the man whom they supposed must have fallen a sacrifice to his temerity. They were exceedingly surprised not to find any trace whatever, even of a horse's foot in the turf. Now as the imitative powers of the Broken, prove that the clouds do sometimes act as mirrors, it is not very improbable, that the man, dog and horses, seen at Souter Fell, were the reflection of such a person and animals from an opposite moun→ tain. By a particular operation of the sun's rays upon the vapour or the clouds, which flitted by the mountain, as in the case of the Fata Morgana, this delusion was no doubt produced."

"We have lost the vineyards, Sir," said Edward, as he pointed to the flat country they were traversing. "Yes," replied the Doctor, "the vine is not cultivated further north than Cologne."

~ than their journey aatein from Frankfort to Coblentz. It lay sometimes through beautiful corn and pasture fields; sometimes through vineyards, orchards, and picturesque villages; while on the surrounding eminences, magnificent castles, and religious louses enriched the scene; behind this luxuriant country, te vast forest of Landeswald formed a sombre back ground.