was not completed until the reign of Philip IV. It has only afforded a receptacle to three sovereigns of the house of Bourbon; the young king Louis I. who ascended the throne in 1724, and died the same year; Queen Amelia, consort of Charles III. and Charles III. himself.

From the Escurial they proceeded to St. Ildefonso, which was built by Philip V. who brought with him from France the magnificent taste of his grandfather Louis XIV. The gardens of St. Ildefonso, are upon the plan of those of Versailles, and are adorned with exquisitely beautiful fountains. That of Andromeda is very fine; but the most remarkable is certainly that dedicated to the God of the Ocean, who is surrounded by his marine court. His attitude, his menacing air, and the direction of his trident, shew that he is imposing silence on the boisterous waves; and the calm which reigns on the water, the tranquillity produced in the air by the triple wall of verdure with which he is surrounded, announce that he has not issued his mandate in vain.

There are some other fountains which well merit the attention of the curious; such is the fountain of Latona, whose limpid streams, some perpendicular, others crossing in every direction, issue from the hoarse throats of the peasants of Lycia, half transformed into frogs, and are discharged in such abundance that the statue of the goddess is concealed from view by one vast mantle of liquid crystal. Of this description also is Diana bathing, surrounded by her nymphs: in the twinkling of an eye the whole chaste assemblage is concealed beneath the water; you imagine that you hear the shrieking of the aquatic birds, and the roaring of the lions, who vomit forth by a hundred channels, this transitory deluge. Such is, lastly, the fountain of Fame; it is formed of a single jet d'eau, which rising 132 feet, displays to the distance of several leagues, the efforts of art to subdue nature, and falls in gentle dew upon the astonished spectators.

The state apartments of St. Ildefonso resemble those of all other palaces. Costly furniture, paintings, and statues, adorn its stately walls.

St. Ildefonso is upwards of twenty-eight leagues from Madrid, and one half of the road leading to the capital, which begins at Guadarama, lies through a thick cluster of ragged and barren mountains, which however are highly valued by sportsmen.

In the district of St. Ildefonso, stands the Carthusian monastery of Paular, one of the most wealthy convents in Spain, and celebrated for its wool; it is situated in a delightful valley, irrigated by a large rivulet, which gently glides through groves and vast meadows, at the foot and on the opposite side of those steep mountains which overlook the palace of St. Ildefonso. This stream drives a paper-mill, the noise of which, is the only sound that interrupts the solemn tranquillity of the beautiful scene.

Dr. Walker on his return to the capital staid but one day, and

passing through Guadalaxara, they at length arrived the second day after their departure from Madrid at Saragossa.

Saragossa is said to have been built by the Phoenicians," said the Doctor, as they entered the city; "observe, Edward, the houses are from three to six stories high, and the public buildings very magnificent: the streets are long, broad, and well paved. Here is an university too, a court of inquisition, 17' large churches, and 14 monasteries.

EDWARD." There is a court of inquisition every where, I think; but Saragossa has erected for itself a more lasting edifice of fame, than that which is founded upon its magnificent buildings of any kind.”

"True," replied his friend. "In the year 1809, Saragossa was attacked by the French, and sustained one of the most memorabe sieges recorded in the annals of war. Under the command of Palafox, soldiers, priests, ladies, and children, all united and fought in its defence. The bravery of the females, especially the heroines Augustina, Renita, and Monulla Sancho, will long reflect honour on Saragossa. These noble women employed themselves in bringing provisions to the weary soldiers, serving at the guns, or fighting with muskets. The last fell in the hottest of the fire; Benita headed a corps of ladies, and after rendering many important services, rapidly died of a broken heart, on hearing that her daughter had been shot. Augustina, after the surrender, eluded the vigilance of the centinel, and fled to the patriots, and finally to the English fleet, which was then lying before Cadiz."

They staid but a short time in Saragossa; and directing their course eastward, they passed through Lerieza and Cervera, and at length arrived at Barcelona.

Of all the people of Spain, the Catalonians are perhaps the most industrious and enterprising.

The port of Barcelona exports silk stuffs, middling cloths, cottons, chintzes, wines and brandy, all the production of the country; and to know what share the Catalonians have in this trade, it is sufficient to say, that in 1782, of 628 vessels which entered Barcelona, 317 were Spanish.

Many prohibited goods, however, are smuggled into this port, particularly salt fish, for which England receives nearly three millions of piastres annually.

"A remarkable circumstance this," said the Doctor, "in the history of commerce, that a nation of heretics should supply a Catholic kingdom with an eatable which they alone know how to prepare for the taste of the consumers, take from their coasts the salt with which the fish are cured, and catch those fish near the same island of Newfoundland of which they made the discovery. It would seem as if this dependence was an irrevocable decree of fate; for the attempts made to substitute fish caught on the coasts of Biscay and the Asturias have been in vain, and only

served to prove that laws, policy, interest itself, disappear before the caprice of taste.

"And now, Edward, we must, I think, take leave of our Spanish friends; and as I hear there is a vessel bound for Marseilles, which will sail to-morrow, I intend going by that to Nice, and so on to Turin,

CHAPTER XVII.

TRAVELS IN ITALY.

SECTION I.

THE SOUTH-EAST OF FRANCE.

OUR travellers had a most agreeable sail, and arrived at Marseilles early in the morning, but did not go on shore till mid-day. Marseilles was founded by a colony of Greeks. It is an ancient and flourishing port, at the head of a gulf, in which are several islands. For variety of dress and language it has been called Europe in miniature. The environs are beautified by about 5000 country residences of the opulent citizens.

Here our travellers were tempted to remain some little time, during which they joined a French family, to whom they had letters of introduction, that were going to Aix, their usual place of residence.

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Aix," observed Dr. Walker to his pupil," was founded by the Romans, and it has yet, I understand, the remains of a triumphal arch, erected by Marius, to commemorate his victory over the Ambrons and Teutones, in which two hundred thousand men were slain."

They were charmed with the beauty of this place, and lingered some time in its environs, in order to enjoy the lovely scenery which met their view on every side. Aix has a public walk, a mile in length, 120 yards in breadth, and shaded by four rows of trees; at each extremity is a cold fountain, and two hot ones in the middle. It has also extensive manufactories of linen and woollen cloths, and trades in the products of the adjoining parts, viz. in olives, oil, brandy, silk, raisins, figs and prunes.

Having returned to Marseilles, they hired a boat to carry them to Toulon, one of the most celebrated sea ports in France. It is divided into two parts, the old and new town. The latter owes

its foundation to Louis the 14th. A spacious oblong square, adorned with trees, and serving as a delightful promenade, em bellishes the new town; it has three harbours; and along that called the Merchant's Port, extends a noble quay, and the townhouse, which are protected by two moles. The new haven owes its construction to Vauban, the celebrated engineer of the reign of Louis the 14th. In the front of this haven stands the ropehouse, built wholly of free-stone, 620 feet in length, containing three arched walks, and above these there is a place where the hemp is prepared. The gallies are now kept in a basin at this place, and Edward's indignation was excited at seeing the slaves chained to the oar under a burning sun.

"You should recollect," observed the Doctor, "that many of these men might possibly have been condemned to death by the laws, and their present punishment is an amelioration of the sentence."

This port was taken by the English and Spaniards, during the late war, but with infinite loss, and finally but little profit; for they were soon obliged to abandon it, and 4000 of the inhabitants, who had joined the invaders, were shot by order of General Fréron; and Buonaparte was appointed to see the sentence carried into execution.

"Pray let us take a peep at Frejus," said Edward, "for however insignificant it may appear in itself, Buonaparte has immortalised it by his daring and romantic return to France in the year 1814."

"Have you yet to learn," replied the Doctor," that Frejus is in itself a place of interest; nor did it need Buonaparte's presence to give it renown. It was the Forum Julii of the Romans, and had then a sea-port, which is now a mile and a half distant from it. And we shall then have the pleasure of inspecting an aqueduct, an amphitheatre, statues and inscriptions innumerable, the magnificent remains of its former splendour. The south of France contains many precious relics of antiquity. At Nismes, capital of the department of Gard, there is a public fountain, a mausoleum, and a magnificent amphitheatre, built by the Romans; but the Maison Quarrée, is a temple of the Corinthian order, of the most exquisite taste, erected by the inhabitants of Nismes, in the year 754, to the memory of Caius and Lucius, sons of Agrippa, and grandsons of Augustus *."

EDWARD." Are there not some Roman remains at Montpelier, Sir?"

An Italian artist upon seeing some parts of this Maison Carrée mended by a French mason, exclaimed with indignation, "What do I see? the hat of Harlequin placed on the head of Augustus!" Cardinal Alberoni was so astonished at its beauty, that he said, it deserved a covering of gold to preserve it from injury.

DR. WALKER.-." No."

"Montpellier, is rich and beautiful; it has long been in public estimation: for what is of more importance to mankind than even Roman antiquities, I mean its school of medicine and its botanic garden: the garden was the first of the kind established in Europe. The air is exceedingly salubrious, and a great number of invalids come hither to recover their health. It trades in silks, blankets, cotton goods, hides and liquors.

"To-morrow, we shall, I hope, reach Nice, and then adieu to France for a time."

From Frejus they started early the next morning, and they had again a peep at the arcades of an aqueduct, and some ruins which appear to have been temples. The arches of this aqueduct are small and low, without either grace or ornament, and seem to have been calculated for mere utility. Having passed these ruins, they shortly began to ascend the steep mountain of Estrelles, which is eight miles over. This mountain was formerly infested by banditti; but it is now tolerably free from the depredations of those gentry. The road which, though good, runs in many parts along the edge of a precipice, creates fears of another kind in timid minds, which are needless; and our travellers enjoyed the romantic beauty of the scenery extremely. Amidst the dark pines which cover the surrounding rocks, the cherry laurel displayed its shining foliage and brilliant fruit. In the middle of this mountain is the post-house, presenting the most chilling aspect; but what was the surprise of Edward upon strolling round the inn, when upon turning suddenly to the south, he discovered orange trees richly loaded with fruit, and a garden filled with fine vegetables; while on the north side of the house an eternal winter appeared to reign! Their journey in the afternoon was peculiarly pleasing; for on one side of the hill is a natural plantation of beautiful evergreens: pines, firs, laurel, cypress, sweet myrtle, tamarisc, box and juniper; these, interspersed with marjorum, sweet thyme, lavender and sage, at once enchant the sight and regale the smell. On the right hand the land shot up into agreeable cones, forming long vistas, through which our travellers caught fine views of the Mediterranean, which washes the foot of the rock; while in a valley between two of the mountains glided a purling stream, whose soft murmurs threw a soothing charm around. They slept that night at Cannes, and on the following day they arrived at Antibes; from thence crossing the river Loup, they reached the village St. Laurent. Their road now lay along the sca-shore, which was covered with white polished pebbles; and on their left sweet olives and myrtles as large as our white-thorn bushes, adorned the road. From Antibes, where they next stopped, and where they passed the Var, (the ancient boundary of France,) the road is far from disagreeable, and they entered Nice in high spirits, anticipating the pleasure they had to come in their journey through Italy.