shape art can devise, for ornamental purposes. There are many fine seats in this neighbourhood, but our travellers had no time for their inspection. They stopped indeed at Ilam to view its romantic gardens, in which two rivers rise, from the bottom of the mountain called Thorpe Cloud. The one called the Manifold, which runs under ground seven miles. Chaff thrown in at Wetton rises here; it boils up like a vast spring, and soon afterwards falls into the Dove. From Ilam they proceeded to Dove Dale, a narrow winding glen, among a variety of rocks, through which the river Dove takes its irriguous course for about two miles. It is bounded in a very romantic manner by hills, rocks, and hanging woods, forming altogether a most lovely picture. This river, which in summer represents a crystal mirror, res flecting the wild beauties of its romantic banks, assumes, in winter, that of a rapid stream, whose course, interrupted by fragments of the fallen rocks, is beautifully diversified by cascades, which though not stupendous enough to lay any claims to the sublime, are yet extremely beautiful. Passing through Ashborne, Ulcester, and Kiddleton, they left the Derwent on the right, which from the accession of the waters from the Peak Hills, assumed a most formidable appearance, and its roar was heard at a considerable distance. They at length arrived at Quarn, or Quarendon, where is a famous chalybeate spring, and from thence advancing due north, they began to view the dismal mountains of the Peak, although still at some distance. At Wirksworth they slept, and the next day arrived at Matlock, seated upon the edge of the Derwent. The environs of this beautiful spot form a winding vale of about three miles through which the river runs. The Derwent is extremely varied, both as to breadth and force; in some places it is broad, clear, and smooth, in others it breaks upon the rocks, and forms innumerable cascades, whose light foam falls like showers of mist upon the admiring spectator. Our travellers crossed the river at the turnpike, and took the winding path up the rock, which led to a luxurient range of fields at the top, when turning to the left they reached the point called Hag Rock. From this spot they had a perpendicular view down a vast precipice to the river, which here forms a fine sheet of water fringed with wood on the opposite side; it falls twice over the rocks, and the beauty of the scenery receives additional effect from the roar of the falling waters. To describe minutely the lovely and wildly beautiful country which surrounds Matlock, would encroach too much upon the limits of this work, it is sufficient to say, that few places excel it, but we cannot omit the mention of three caverns which lie to the west and north-west of this romantic place, that most particularly interesting is called Cumberland Cavern, the entrance to which is partly artificial, to afford a greater facility to the curious traveller, who has to descend fifty-four steps, when the cavern opens in solitary grandeur. Huge masses of stone are piled on each other, with tremendous carelessness, evidently produced by some violent concussion, though at an unknown period. "With what regularity is the cieling formed," said the Doctor, as they passed through a long and wide passage, the roof of which is bespangled by spars of various description. From above, from beneath, and from the sides, the rays of the light are reflected in every direction. The next apartment is composed of rocks heaped on rocks, in terrible array, while the adjoining chamber presents the appearance of a rocky country, in which the snow has been drifted. Near the extremities of the cavern are to be seen fishes petrified, and fixed in the several strata which form the surrounding recess. Several of these have their backs jutting out of the side of the earth, as if they had been petrified in the act of swimming. Upon arriving at Buxton, " These baths," said Dr. Walker, 66 were eminent in. the time of the Romans, and are mentioned by Lucan. This is confirmed by the high road called the Roman Bath-gate, close by St. Ann's Well, where L am told we may still see the ruins of the old bath, its dimensions and length. The plaister is red and hard as brick; and appears as if it were burnt, exactly resembling tiles. The water of Buxton is sulphureous and saline, yet not fœtid but very palatable, because the sulphur is not united with any vitriolic particles, or but very few saline; it does not tinge silver. "The great curiosity attached to St. Anne's Well, is that, within five feet of it a cold spring rushes out. Mary, Queen. of Scots, wrote a distich of Julius Cæsar, with a little alteration, on a square of glass at this place, which is still shewn.” Buxton, whose fame thy Baths shall ever tell, The environs of Buxton abound in romantic sights, among the most striking of which is the dale called Lover's Leap, on account of a vast precipice which forms one side of a narrow chasm, and from the summit of which a love-lorn female is said to have precipitated herself. Each side of this beautiful dale is bounded by elevated rocks, the proximity of which is such, that for a considerable space there is scarcely passage for the bubbling current of the Wye. Several of these rocks are bare, while others are partially ornamented by rich spots of vegetation. At the southern extremity the scene assumes a milder character. A rude bridge, a mountainous path, and a busy mill, with other rural objects, form a striking contrast to that presented by a lofty rock, called Swallow Tor, which soaring over a mass of wood, has the river at its base, foaming and roaring over broken masses of lime-stone. Poole's Hole, lying about a mile to the westward of Buxton, was the next place our travellers visited. This vast cavern receives its name, according to tradition, from an outlaw, of the name of Poole, who found an asylum within its wonderful recess. The entrance is low and contracted, and the passage narrow; by degrees, however, it becomes wider, and at length opens into a lofty cavern, from the roof of which are suspended stalactites, or transparent crystals, formed by the constant dropping of water laden with calcareous matter. These petrefactions rise also from the floor, and are then called stalagmites; these are also produced by the droppings from the roof. The most remarkable of these masses of stalactites, is that called Mary, Queen of Scot's pillar, from a tradition that while that unfortunate Queen was dwelling at Chatsworth, she paid a visit to these subterraneous regions, but penetrated no farther than to this very spot, although the cave extends nearly three hundred feet beyond it. "We must see the Devil's Hole, and the lately discovered crystallized cavern," said the Doctor, as they quitted Poole's Hole," and then we really must make the best of our way into Cheshire, for we have made so long a stay in this neighbourhood, we shall not be in time to cross the Irish channel at a seasonable time of the year." The Devil's Hole, lies in the vicinity of Castleton, and is approached by a path on the side of a clear rivulet, which issues from it, leading to the fissure or separation of the rock, at the extremity of which the cavern is situated. It would be difficult to imagine a scene more magnificent than that which presents itself to a visitor at the entrance of the cavern. On each side the huge grey rocks, rise almost perpendicularly to the height of nearly three hundred feet. A vast canopy of rock forms the mouth of this tremendous excavation, assuming the form of a depressed arch, which extends one hundred and twenty feet in breadth, forty-two in height, and about ninety in receding depth. At their first entrance into this extraordinary cavern, our travellers uttered an exclamation of surprize, at perceiving a number of twine makers, who have taken up their residence and established a manufactory within its gloomy recess. After proceeding about ninety feet, the roof becomes lower, and a gentle descent conducted them by a detached rock to the interior entrance, where they bade adieu to the cheerful light of day, and pursued their researches by torch light. After continuing along a narrow passage, so low that they were frequently obliged to stoop, they arrived at a spacious opening called the Bell House, where a small lake presents itself, on which appeared An empty boat, that slowly to the shore Advanc'd, without the aid of sail, but not of oar. And here it needed some little encouragement to induce the strangers to enter "this bark supine," for the overhanging rock reaches within twenty inches of the water. The light of the torches which was considerably dimmed by the va pours of the stream, gave a ghastly hue to their countenances, and as Edward stood by the lake gazing on its clear though dusky waters, he exclaimed," this is indeed an awful place, see Sir, how like a group of spectres we look, as reflected in these dark waters!" "Gloomy as is this scene," replied the Doctor, " your observation has conjured up one of the sweetest scenes in Paradise Lost; guess it Edward." "Oh, there needs no ghost to tell us what scene you allude to, Sir," said the youth, "it is that where Eve sees herself for the first time reflected in the lake." DR.WALKER.-"Just so ; but our guides appear impatient. Let us cross this Stygian lake, and further explore the wonders of the cavern.' Having safely landed on the opposite shore, they entered a spacious vacuity of immense depth, length, and breadth; it is indeed so extensive, that neither its roof or sides can be seen by persons standing in the middle of it. At the further extremity, the stream which flows through the whole of this cavern, opens into a second lake, which terminates near that point called Roger Rain's House, from the constant dropping of water, and beyond this is the chancel. Here the rocks, broken into wild and irregular forms, and covered with stalactal or petrified incrustations, present a scene of rude magnificence. Scarcely had our travellers expressed their surprize at the grandeur with which they were surrounded, when a choir of voices burst upon them, and the Doctor involuntarily exclaimed, "Where should this music be! i' th' air, or the earth." "'Tis like enchantment," said Edward, as the voices echoed through the cavern, now soft, now loud, till at length their pleasing song, though rude, gradually ceased, and silence for a time added its awful effect to the already imposing scene. The guide having pointed out, as the vocal performers, eight or ten women and children, ranged purposely in a hollow of the rock, about fifty feet above the floor, they followed him to the Devil's Cellar, and the Half Way House, neither of which present any object of importance, till they came to that part of the cavern called Great Tom of Lincoln, from its resemblance to a bell. From hence the cavern gradually becomes so narrow as only to admit a passage for the stream. The guide having put a small quantity of gunpowder into a fissure of the rock, the effect produced by the explosion when it was ignited, was that of loud and repeated peals of thunder, rolling majestically along the sides and roof of the cavern. As our travellers retraced their steps, and approached the entrance of this subterraneous place of wonders, their admiration was wonderfully excited by observing the dawn of day-light as it gradually illumined the deep recesses of the cavern; the extraordinary beauty of this scene may be imagined, but cannot be described. The entire length of this cavern is 2250 feet, and its depth, from the surface of the Peak mountain, 600 feet. "The scene we have just witnessed, certainly partakes of the sublime," said Dr. Walker, "that we are about to visit, is, I understand, classed as more belonging to the beautiful," The crystallized cavern is near Bradwell, and has been |