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The ancient Thessalonica is about ten miles in circumference, the inhabitants are chiefly Greek Christians and Jews, each of whom has thirty places of public worship. It has a great trade, particularly in silk. Here are many superb mosques which formerly were Christian churches: that of St. Demetrius is particularly rich, it contains many pillars of porphyry, jasper, and other costly materials. At this place they were regaled with sea perch; and off this coast they observed that the fish were sometimes driven into large nets and thus caught.

As they wandered one evening through the streets of the city, they observed near one-of the principal bazaars several coffee rooms, whither many Turks were bending their heavy steps. Many of these persons appeared to have their necks awry, and were in other respects distorted to a certain degree.

"Dear Sir," exclaimed Edward, "how very shocking it is to see so many persons distorted, what can be the reason of it?"

DR. WALKER." The inordinate use of opium. One of the most valuable medicines we have. It is the dried juice of the seed-vessels of the white poppy, when they are about half grown."

On the following day as they were strolling in the environs of the town they heard the tones of wailing and lamentation. The sounds drew nearer, and slowly advancing they saw a funeral procession. A number of Greek women with their hair dishevelled, weeping bitterly and mournfully, strewing roses, and sprinkling a bier with perfumed water, slowly passed them. The deceased was an unmarried woman: she was dressed in her best attire, and crowned with a chaplet of flowers. The women who attended appeared sinking under the weight of their affliction; indeed many of them upon these melancholy occasions refuse all sustenance till they are absolutely compelled to take it. A funeral feast concluded the mournful ceremony.

"I think," said Dr. Walker, as they returned home, "that it is high time we should prepare for visiting Mount Athos, we do intend it, and therefore let us make arrangements for this great undertaking."

Having obtained letters from a Greek monk of Salonichi, to the abbots of the different convents, our travellers hired guides, and they proceeded across an immense plain, till they came to a Turkish burial ground. In its neighbourhood is one very large barrow or tumulus, and several smaller ones. There are many such in different parts of Greece, and Turkey. Upon arriving at the beautiful village of Basilika, consisting of detached houses placed in the midst of vineyards and gardens, they stopped and passed the night in a pleasant cottage, and the next day continued their journey by passing through Gallitze a complete Grecian village; here they procured Albanian guides and guards, and continuing their route through forests of oak, they at length entered a country which recalled to their imagination the rich scenery of an English park,

SECTION VIII.

ALBANIA.

In the neighbourhood of Nisvoro where they next halted, are silver mines, which are still worked. They were fortunate in meeting with a company of pilgrims who were journeying to the holy mountains, all well armed, in order to resist the attacks of robbers who infest this part of the country. The dress of the Albanian women reminded our travellers of the highland lassies, for except the difference in the head dress, their costume is similar. Upon reaching the isthmus which joins the holy mountain to the continent, their guides told them they would see no more women, as females of every description were forbidden to approach the hallowed spot.

"Nay," said one of their guides, “you will not even see a cow or a ewe, for nothing female will exist upon Athos, that is as the monks say."

"Do they drive away all the birds too?" said Edward smiling, "I think that is past their ability."

"Problakas, this narrow spot," observed Dr. Walker, “which is but twenty-five yards across, was cut through hy Xerxes, to admit his gallies."

And now they soon approached the monastery of Chiliantari, where they were hospitably received by the hugoumenos or abbot, who appeared to be a man possessing much intelligence. The country surrounding Chiliantari is ornamented with vineyards, corn fields, and gardens, where the song of the nightingale is heard during the day as well as the night. By the rules of the monastic institution of Mount Athos, the different convents are required to grant hospitality to all strangers of whatever denomination, country, or rank, who may visit the holy mountain: our travellers experienced this hospitality, through the whole of their tour, in its utmost extent, for upon their offering to the caloyer (a lay brother only) who had attended upon them, a remuneration for his trouble, he decidedly refused it. travelling caloyers, however, are not famous for disinterestedness; they are indeed a great tax upon the monasteries, for they are numerous and poor, and frequently intrude long upon the hos pitality of the poor monks.

The

The oath of the monks on Mount Athos, is solemn and simple: it requires an absolute renunciation of the world and all its social ties. As they continued their journey from one monastery to another, (there are twenty in all) they sometimes traversed the most beautiful and well cultivated country; while at others their road ran along the edge of a barren precipice beet

ling over the sca. The situation of the monastery of Simopetra, which stands on a perpendicular rock, is by far the most ro mantic in the peninsula. From a gallery which surrounds it externally, and which our travellers entered when the vast concave of heaven was thickly studded with stars, the scene is awful indeed. The moon rose majestically in the east, and as her broad and glowing disk gradually ascended, the tops of the rocks and thick forests which skirted their base, assumed a silvery hue; while the summit of Athos, which towered considerably above them, covered with snow, presented a most subline and imposing effect. The magic of this scene affected the whole party.

Scarcely a breath agitated the leaves, no noise disturbed the awful repose, save the sweet voice of the nightingale, and the gentle dashing of the waves, as their silvery tops rolled over with measured pace, and laved the foot of the rock. Now and then the splashing of an oar was also heard as a pirate boat skimmed lightly over the glittering deep.

“Oh what a lovely scene," said Antonio, "I could almost wish to become a caloyer.”

"And when the wind blows, and the tempest rages," replied the Doctor," when the rolling thunder reverberates from rock to rock; when the lightnings blast those stately oaks, and the spray of the foaming deep dashes over their towering heads, how should you like to be a caloyer then?”

"Oh," said Antonio, who had listened with thrilling awe as the Doctor painted the scene; "I think I should like to see such a scene as you have described, beyond any other upon earth."

"Well, then," said Edward, "we will leave you behind, and seek another Antonio; who much as he may admire the sublimity of the scenes of nature, admires more the superiority of intellectual pleasures, and those social ties which bind man to man."

There was a degree of reproof in this speech, which rather astonished the Doctor, and wounded Antonio.

"You have shewn by this speech," replied Dr. Walker, " that you are deficient at least in the milk of human kindness, the strongest tic which binds man to man. Antonio is not going to leave us, nor did I hear him say as much."

The tears rushed to Antonio's eyes, and the colour flushed Edward's cheeks, and then again forsook them.

66

"Mr. Montague!" exclaimed Antonio, approaching him timidly. In an instant they were in each other's arms, and Dr. Walker said no more upon the subject. The next morning they again entered the gallery. Here their eyes commanded a vast expanse of the Egean Sea; distinguished clearly numerous islands that were scattered over its smooth surface; surveyed the Gulf of Athos, and returning back to the wooded regions of

the mountain, beheld the deepened dell, above which boldly rose to a tremendous height the craggy precipice on which this building was raised.

Having taken an affectionate leave of the Abbot of Simopetra, they descended the craggy rock which nearly occupied them an hour, they embarked in a boat of the monastery, and passing the convent of St. Gregoria, they landed at that of Dionysio; and from thence proceeded on to St. Ann's. The picturesque effect of this convent is considerably heightened by a foaming torrent, which issuing from the mountains, tumbles from rock to rock, sometimes partially hidden by gloomy woods, until at length, in one sheet of foam, it mixes with the Gulf of Athos.

From St. Ann's they proceeded on foot to the convent of St. Laura, from whence they directed their steps to the capital of the peninsula; and after traversing the greatest variety of scenery that can be imagined, they at length arrived at Chariess in the centre of the peninsula, The appearance of this town is singular; it is situated on the side of a natural amphitheatre, clothed with the richest verdure, and highly cultivated. The meadows in its vicinity are so luxurious, as to be cut three times in a year. The vineyards and filberd gardens which surround it, are cultivated with peculiar care, and watered much in the same way as those in France, viz. by irrigation. It contains a few shops; but here were no women, no infants to amuse, and the Turkish Aga himself is doomed to a life of celibacy during his residence in the holy mountain.

They hired mules at Chariess to convey them over the fine Alpine country which they were now to traverse. The snowy top of Mount Athos appeared towering above the surrounding rocks in majestic grandeur. The convent of Batopaida is embosomed in woods, and surrounded by gardens and meadows.

"Why this is a fortress, not a convent," said Edward, as they approached the castellated building. "Look, Sir, at those lofty walls and towers; those cannon, and that huge iron gate."

His surprise was encreased when this gate was opened, for it led them into a long and winding passage, in which were two brass cannon, and after passing through three more gates, secured by bolts and bars, they were at length admitted within the sacred precincts of the monastery. The Hegoumenos received them politely. This is one of the principal of the convents of the Holy Mountain; it is a large irregular building, overlooking the sea. One large church, and twenty six smaller ones are attached to it, and it accommodates two hundred and fifty friars and priests, besides a vast number of pilgrims.

"What building is that?" enquired Edward of the Greek Caloyer, who was accompanying them as a guide in the environs

of the convent.

"It was an academy where the Greek language was taught,”

replied the Caloyer; "but owing to the deficiency of the funds to support the institution, it has been shut up for some time."

"This Caloyer led them to a small building, which made them shudder when he opened the door, for it contained the sculls of all the monks who had died in the `convent. These monks are forbidden meat, except upon occasions of extreme necessity. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; they must not eat either eggs, oil, or fish. Having traversed this interesting region, and satisfied their curiosity, as to the nature of the institutions of the twenty convents, and of the people which inhabit the holy mountain, they began to think of resuming their journey.

SECTION IX.

LEMNOS ADRIANOPLE-CONSTANTINOPLE.

FORTUNATELY a vessel having just dropped anchor from Lemnos, which upon enquiry they found could accommodate them and convey them to that island, when the master had unloaded his little stores, they took a friendly leave of the superior of the convent of Batopaida, and once more embarked. The clearness of the water as they approached Lemnos, drew their joint attentions; they could distinguish several marine productions, which were at the bottom of the sea; and here they saw the process of gathering sponge. Several little boats, containing each two men, the one with a cruet of oil, the other holding a pike or sharp prong, went out together. The oil was for the same purpose as that used in fishing, and they saw several large pieces of sponge drawn up by the men, who tore it from the rocks with their pikes, as well as several sorts of fish, such as the red and grey mullet, the sparus, the shad, and a kind of scorpion fish. They were regaled in this island with a variety of melons. Lemnos has lost all its former splendour; it formerly boasted of a wonderful labyrinth, of which not the slightest trace now remains. Exorcism is still practised by the Greek priests on the shores of the Archipelago and the islands; not only human beings, but animals of almost every kind, are supposed to be subject to the influence of baneful spells, sorcery, and witchcraft; and in one of their liturgies there is a prayer for counteracting a malicious glance on silk-worms when they are spinning. A priest, with a censer, and a vessel of holy water, was performing this ceremony on a new built cottage, which stood near the sea side, upon the arrival of our travellers in Lemnos.

After our travellers had ascended Mount Pelias, the highest in

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