Изображения страниц
PDF
EPUB

ashes, dust, dirt, and other filth," into the streets, | being a baker's house or shop in Pudding Lane, lanes, and alleys-a sure welcome to the plague, near Fish Street Hill, kept by one Farryner. as well as aggravation of its violence. These Pepys was awoke by a servant at three o'clock, evils were ordered to be immediately repaired, with the information that there was a fire in the by new paving the great streets between London city, which was sufficient to hurry him to the and Westminster, which were specified by name. window; but, thinking that the spectacle was too Every inhabitant, also, was to sweep the street trivial, and too far off to tempt him from his home, before his own house twice a-week, under a pen- he returned to bed, but was told, soon after seven alty of 38. 4d. for every case of omission. And o'clock, that the fire had already burned down as a cure for total darkness, and those deeds of 300 houses, and was now burning down all Fish darkness with which the streets of London aboun- Street by London Bridge. This was enough for ded at midnight, when the "sons of Belial" sal- the indefatigable sight-seer, who repaired to the lied out, "flown with insolence and wine," every Tower, and mounted one of its highest places, householder whose dwelling fronted the street from which he saw "the houses, at that end of was ordered to hang out candles, or lights in the bridge, all on fire, and an infinite great fire on lanterns, or otherwise, in some part of his house this and the other side the end of the bridge;" next the street, every night between Michaelmas and, on descending, he was told by the lieutenant and Lady Day, from sunset until nine o'clock in of the Tower that St. Magnus' Church, and the the evening, under penalty of 18. Here was greater part of Fish Street, were already deat best a glimmer-more perplexing, it may be, stroyed. He went down to the water-side, took than darkness itself-lasting only until the sober boat, and passed through the bridge, where the part of the community had gone to bed, and kept whole spectacle was opened to his view. The up only during the winter. Thus was London previous drought of the weather, and the abunlighted, not only at this time but for a long period dance of old lath and timber, of which the houses afterwards; and those who went abroad after the were mainly built, made the fire go onward like hour of nine, had either to grope their way in a torrent: "everybody endeavouring to remove the dark through the filth and pitfalls of the their goods, and flinging into the river, or bringstreets, or carry a flambeau, link, or lantern. ing them into lighters that lay off; poor people Thus a regeneration of London, without a pre- staying in their houses as long as till the very vious destruction, appears to have been impossi- fire touched them, and then running into boats, ble, more especially when we take into account or clambering from one pair of stairs, by the the decayed timber and lath and plaster of which water-side, to another." After waiting an hour, it was principally composed. Nothing, however, marking the rapid progress of the fire, and seeing but the commercial wealth of London, aided by that none attempted to extinguish it, all being the lately aroused enterprise of the people, could employed in saving their lives or property, Pepys have rebuilt, in so short a time, a metropolis far went up the river for Whitehall to carry the surpassing the old both in extent and grandeur. tidings to the court. On the king being adverEven only eight years after the fire, it so much tised of the danger, he sent Pepys into the city exceeded its former limits that the old state alarm with his commands to the lord-mayor to spare was excited on the occasion, and the former pro- no houses-to pull down before the fire in every hibitions upon metropolitan extension were re-direction; and, on entering the city for the purnewed. These, however, were now so little pose, the active messenger found that the fire heeded, that court and parliament were obliged had entered before him, destroying churches, to submit, more especially as the extension chiefly public buildings, and houses by wholesale, while went westward with the courtiers and aristo- the streets were crowded with people removing cracy; and in 1685 new acts of parliament were their goods in carts or upon their backs. Threadvouchsafed, erecting two new parishes, which ing his way with difficulty amidst the throng, were those of St. Anne's and St. James's, in Pepys reached Cannon Street, where he found Westminster. Bludworth, the lord-mayor, stupified and exAn event so important as the great fire of Lon-hausted; who, on receiving the royal message, don, that has no parallel in history except the burning of Rome in the reign of Nero, is too momentous to be dismissed with a passing notice. It was also a conflagration, in the strong glare of which the national character, both in its good and evil qualities, was manifested with most impressive distinctness. Its commencement was at ten o'clock on Sunday evening, the 2d of September, 1666; and its origin was humble enough,

VOL. II.

"cried like a fainting woman," and exclaimed, "Lord! what can I do? I am spent: people will not obey me. I have been pulling down houses; but the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it." The inept civic functionary also added that he must go and refresh himself, for he had been up all night. By this time it was mid-day. The houses in Thames Street being chiefly warehouses filled with pitch and tar, oil, wine, and spirits,

203

were catching fire in rapid succession; goods that had been removed to what were thought places of safety, were again being shifted to houses further off, only to require, in a short time, a further removal; and the churches themselves were filled with property, but only to serve as fuel for the advancing bonfire.

In the afternoon, Pepys returned to the city, and found the advance of the fire still steady and resistless. Cannon Street was emptied into Lombard Street, and this rich mart of goldsmiths was now to be visited in its turn. At St. Paul's Wharf he again took boat, and sailed both above and below the bridge, where he saw that the conflagration was so wide that there was no prospect of arresting it. In the streets were nothing but

they took a parting view, for the night, of the devoted city. "We saw the fire grow," he says, "and, as it grew darker, appeared more and more; and in corners and upon steeples, and between churches and houses, as far as we could see up the hill of the city, in a most horrid, malicious, bloody flame, not like the fine flame of an ordinary fire. We stayed till, it being darkish, we saw the fire as only one entire arch of fire from this to the other side the bridge, and in a bow up the hill for an arch of above a mile long. It made me weep to see it. The churches, houses, and all on fire and flaming at once; and a horrid noise the flames made, and the cracking of houses at their ruin."

While Pepys was thus noting the appearance

[ocr errors]

OLD LONDON BRIDGE, TIME OF CHARLES II.-After Hollar.

a chaos of people, horses and carts, crowding, driving, and ready to run over each other; while the river was full of lighters and boats taking in goods, a great part of which was also swimming in the water, in the hurry of such a wild removal. In his minute touches of description, he is also careful to mark that "hardly one lighter or boat in three that had the goods of a house in, but there was a pair of virginals in it." Upon the water, he also saw the king and the Duke of York issuing orders to pull down houses; but the progress of the fire was too rapid, and its rule too dominant, to be checked by these kingly behests. After a short interval, when the wind had strengthened, his cruise upon the water became more limited from the driving of the smoke, and the showers of fire-drops and fireflakes, which made a further sojourn upon the Thames both dangerous and intolerable. Thus driven from the water, Pepys and his companions landed at Bankside, and as the evening closed in

and progress of the conflagration chiefly from the river, another distinguished diarist, the accomplished Evelyn, was observing it it by land, and has given a full account of the particulars. It was not until after dinner that he went to the bank-side, in Southwark, to witness the dismal spectacle; and he saw, from that point of view, that the whole city near the water-side was in flames, and that all the houses from the bridge, all Thames Street, and upwards towards Cheapside, down to the Three Cranes, were consumed. At night he returned to the same place, and found the whole south part of the city burning from Cheapside to the Thames, and all along Cornhill, Tower Street, Fenchurch Street, Gracechurch Street, and so along to Baynard's Castle. And terrible was the close of this first day, which he has described with a breadth that Pepys could never have attempted. "The conflagration was so universal, and the people so astonished, that, from the beginning, I know not by what despondency or fate, they hardly stirred to quench it, so that there was nothing heard or seen but crying out and lamentation, running about like distracted creatures without at all attempting to save even their goods: such a strange consternation there was upon them, so as it burned both in breadth and length, the churches, public halls, exchange, hospitals, monuments, and ornaments; leaping, after a prodigious manner, from house to house

[graphic]

all past experience was useless, and all natural courage quelled and paralyzed: "all men stood amazed as spectators," says Clarendon, " only no man knowing what remedy to apply, nor the magistrates what orders to give." The first prudent suggestion had been to pull down the houses nearest the fire, by which its progress might have been stopped at once; but the selfishness of the

and street to street, at great distances one from the other; for the heat, with a long set of fair and warm weather, had even ignited the air, and prepared the materials to conceive the fire, which devoured after an incredible manner houses, furniture, and everything. . . Oh, the miserable and calamitous spectacle! such as, haply, the world had not seen since the foundation of it, nor to be outdone till the universal conflagration | owners opposed this proceeding until it was too thereof. All the sky was of a fiery aspect, like the top of a burning oven; and the light seen above forty miles round about for many nights. God grant mine eyes may never behold the like, who now saw above 10,000 houses all in one flame. The noise, and cracking, and thunder of the impetuous flames, the shrieking of women and children, the hurry of people, the fall of towers, houses, and churches, was like an hideous storm, and the air all about so hot and inflamed, that, at the best, one was not able to approach it; so that they were forced to stand still and let the flames burn on, which they did for near two miles in length and one in breadth. The clouds, also, of smoke were dismal, and reached, upon computation, near fifty miles in length. Thus I left it this afternoon burning, a resemblance of Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly called to my mind that passage, non enim hic habemus stabilem civitatem [here we have no abiding city]; the ruins resembling the picture of Troy. London was, but is no more."

It will be perceived that the greater part of the mischief was effected during the first twentyfour hours. But on the following day, the fire had got as far as the Inner Temple, while all Fleet Street, the Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, Warwick Lane, Newgate, Paul's Chain, and Watling Street were in a flame, and for the most part reduced to ashes. St. Paul's Church could not escape amidst the ruin; and it the more easily caught fire from the scaffolding with which it was surrounded, as it was about to undergo a thorough repair. The stones of this church, Evelyn tells us, "flew like grenadoes, the melting lead running down the streets in a stream, and the very pavements glowing with fiery redness, so as no horse nor man was able to tread on them, and the demolition had stopped all the passages, so that no help could be applied." And still no means appear to have been used to check the wide-wasting and continually spreading destruction. At the first, men had hurried, as we have seen, to preserve their lives and goods, each only thinking of his own safety; but when they were driven from one shelter to another, they either fled from the city leaving all behind them, or gazed in stupid apathy, and did nothing. It was no wonder, if we consider the nature of the calamity, so great, so terrible, and unprecedented, in which

|

late. At last, and when it was scarcely worth while, the remedy was used which should have been adopted at first: it was to blow up the houses with gunpowder wherever the flames were advancing, and thus to save what portion of the metropolis yet remained. This process did not commence until the afternoon of the second day, and with the buildings nearest the Tower; but although the noise of the exploding buildings, as Pepys informs us, frightened the people more than anything, its good effects were soon experienced, so that the practice became general; and such large gaps were made in every direction, as to confine the fire, while the abatement of the wind prevented it from spreading. The couflagration, after continuing to blaze, and finally to smoulder for several days, was exhausted, so that on the eighth day from the commencement Evelyn was able to note in his diary, "I went again to the ruins, for it was now no longer a city."

66

Miserable in the meantime was the condition of those whom a few hours had unhoused, and driven out in myriads. They had taken refuge in St. George's Fields, Moorfields, and as far as Highgate, and in a circle of several miles, some under miserable huts and hovels, many without a rag or any necessary utensils, bed or board, who from delicateness, riches, and easy accommodations in stately and well-furnished houses, were now reduced to extremest misery and poverty." Of these, there were 200,000 persons of all ranks and degrees, standing beside what little property they had been able to save; but though they were ready to perish with hunger, not one condescended to beg for relief" which to me," says Evelyn, "appeared a stranger sight than any I had seen."

While they occupied this miserable encampment, a rumour was suddenly raised among them that the French and Dutch, with whom we were at war, had not only landed, but were even entering the city. The thought of the horrors of war thus about to be added to those of pestilence and fire maddened the sufferers; they snatched what weapons were at hand, and could scarcely be prevented from a rush upon the burning city, and an attack upon the strangers who belonged to these countries, until soldiers and guards were sent to lead them back into the fields, and mount guard over them to prevent a

further outbreak. To feed such a multitude, it without wondering where the wealth could be also, the king and council had issued a procla- found to bear so vast a loss as was made by the mation requiring all the country round to bring fire, and so prodigious an expense as was laid daily and constantly provisions to the various out in rebuilding the city." markets established for their relief; to open all churches, chapels, schools, and other places, for the stowage of the goods they had saved; and to make every town patent to the free reception of such as exercised manual occupations.

The extent of this conflagration comprised a space of 436 acres. Its boundaries, as stated in the London Gazette, were the Temple Church, near Holborn Bridge, Pye Corner, Aldersgate, Cripplegate, near the lower end of Colman Street, at the end of Basinghall Street, by the postern at the upper end of Bishopsgate Street and Leadenhall Street, at the standard in Cornhill, at the church in Fenchurch Street, near Clothworkers' Hall in Mincing Lane, at the middle of Mark Lane, and at the Tower Dock. Within this verge were destroyed 400 streets, 13,200 dwellinghouses, eighty-nine churches, four of the city gates, the Guildhall, with many public buildings, chapels, hospitals, schools, libraries, and noble mansions. The worth of the property thus lost can scarcely be estimated at less than £10,000,000. But strange as well as gratifying to tell, amidst all this confusion and havoc, not more than six persons appear to have lost their lives, and these, too, from venturing incautiously among the ruins. The sick and the infirm were carried off in beds or upon men's shoulders, and conveyed to places of safety, whatever might befall the goods and furniture. The bills of mortality also exhibit no increase, although so many thousands were lodged in frail sheds, hovels, and gipsy tents, from Smithfield to Highgate, and obliged to dwell in these until regular houses could be built to receive them. When the first effect of this overwhelming blow had passed away, the national spirit recovered its wonted healthy energy, and the erection of a new metropolis seems to have been contemplated as calmly as if it had been only the fabrication of a new garment when the old had been worn out. Only eleven days after the commencement of the fire, and while the ruins were still smouldering, Evelyn waits upon the king with the plan of a new capital, and tells us in the same breath, that the queen was going to take the air in her Cavalier ridinghabit, horseman's coat, hat, and feather. That which would have stunned any other nation, only served to give England a fresh impulse, and even already a better London than the former could be anticipated. "To the amazement of all Europe," says Burnet, "London was, in four years' time, re-built with so much beauty and magnificence, that we, who saw it in both states, before and after the fire, cannot reflect on

Allusion has already been made to the promptitude with which the difficulty of repairing the calamity was encountered. The metropolis of a great nation, which is commonly the growth of ages, was to be erected at once; the myriads who were unsheltered, were to be furnished with homes, where not merely safety, but comfort could be enjoyed. Palaces and churches, marts and warehouses, behoved to start from the wide waste and ruin with more than the rapidity of a summer's harvest, and the mercantile enterprise and political action of the nation to go onward without stop or check. But there was more than one brave spirit in the country that could meet and surmount the trial. We have seen how speedily Evelyn came forward with his plan of a new London; but prompt as he was, he had been anticipated by Sir Christopher Wren, now appointed surveyor-general, and principal architect for rebuilding the whole city. Receiving the royal order to that effect, he surveyed with great toil and peril the plain of dust and ashes which the conflagration had left, and mapped out the streets which were to be laid upon it. He thus "designed a plan or model of a new city, in which the deformity and inconveniences of the old town were remedied, by the enlarging the streets and lanes, and carrying them as near parallel to one another as might be; avoiding, if compatible with greater conveniences, all acute angles; by seating all the parochial churches conspicuous and insular; by forming the most public places into large piazzas, the centre of (six or eight ways; by uniting the halls of the twelve chief companies into one regular square annexed to Guildhall; by making a quay on the whole bank of the river, from Blackfriars' to the Tower."1 From the same authority we learn, that the streets "were to be of three magnitudes; the three principal leading straight through the city, and one or two cross streets to be at least ninety feet wide; others sixty feet; and lanes about thirty feet, excluding all narrow, dark alleys without thoroughfares and courts."

Such were the principal outlines of the plan by which the new city was to be "the most magnificent, as well as commodious for health and trade, of any upon earth." And such it doubtless would have been if the site had been a virgin soil—an unclaimed territory. But every inch of that lava surface was not only of value, but also private property; and every man of the dispossessed was clamouring for his own allotment of ground, upon which he might again set

1 Wren's Parentalia.

up his shop, warehouse, or dwelling, let the general plan of the new city be what it might. As such a claim could not be refused, a court of judicature had been appointed to ascertain each owner's locality; and so well had this difficult task been discharged, as to give universal satisfaction. And now that each man could identify his own, Sir Christopher found that every man's hand was more or less against him. "The practicability of this scheme," says the author of the Parentalia, in speaking of the plan of his father, the architect," without loss to any man, or infringement of any property, was at that time demonstrated, and all material objections fully weighed and answered. The only, and, as it

[blocks in formation]

happened, insurmountable difficulty remaining, was the obstinate averseness of great part of the citizens to alter their old properties, and to recede from building their houses again on the old ground and foundations; as also the distrust in many, and unwillingness to give up their properties, though for a time only, into the hands of public trustees or commissioners, till they might be dispensed to them again, with more advantage to themselves than otherwise was possible to be effected." And what mortal skill could have surmounted such difficulties? Where every shopkeeper and householder was standing doggedly and immoveably upon his ground, the straight, comely lines of Sir Christopher's new chart were

[graphic]
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

1. St. Paul's.

2. Royal Exchange.

3. Guildhall.

4. Bank.

5. East India Hous.

6. Custom House.

7 Navy Office.

8. Victualling Office.

9. Monument.

10. Christ's Hospital.

11. Ely House.

12. Exeter Change.

13. Bedford House.

14. Somerset House.

15. The Savoy.

16. Northumberland House.

17. Montague House.

18. Southampton House.

19. Cleveland House. 20. St. James's Palace

obliged to wind into many a devious deflection, like rivulets through a rocky soil. Nothing but the Thames itself was allowed to find its onward, proper, because resistless course. As it was, however, more convenience, more health and safety, and a far greater amount of magnificence,

21. Burlington House, 22. Whitehall.

23. Westminster Abbey.

24. Westminster Hall.
25. Charing Cross.
26. Newgate.

27. The Fleet.

28. The Marshalsea 29. The King's Bench.

a. James's Square. b. Golding Square. c. King Square.

d. Leicester Fields.

e. Red Lyon Square. f. Lincoln's Inn Fields.

g. Covent Garden.

h. Smithfield.

i. Charter house Square.

especially in the public buildings, was secured for the new capital than had been found in the old. These advantages will at once be perceptible by referring to the illustrations we have given of ancient public edifices, and especially to the accompanying plan of London restored,

« ПредыдущаяПродолжить »