to Paul. I mean this class to include, not only children, but all who are drawn to fear God in a quiet and peaceful manner. "These often appear like lonely wanderers, passing for melancholy people in the blithesome world; but their laughter is not before men, and they have sweet sunny hours little recked of. "Look at the map, road No. 2. 'Pharisaical security.' I am found of them that sought me not,' Isa. lxv. 1. Ah! this hot, bitter, burning zeal; this pharisaical security of heart is the worst, the most dangerous of all. I shudder at it; for this road goes straight by the cross. The cross is a small and contemptible object to travellers who hurry on this way. They are hot with running, and driving, and working, and fighting, and doing God service, as they think; too proud and restless to dream of such a thing as lying down at the foot of the cross.' Had it been some great thing that had been required of them, they would have done it.Ay! and some of them are doing great things in their own estimation; for they are not without zeal and courage. Their lives are in their hands, and they will die for the shadow and the name of religion, while they know nothing of its substance and power. "This is the worst path, the most dangerous, the most hopeless. He says so whose word is truth. 6 Verily I say unto you, That the publicans and the harlots go into the kingdom of God before you,' Matt. xxi. 31. 6 "Yet some come this way. 'I was found of them that sought me not.' They run furiously, and would pass by the cross; but Jesus stops them ere they pass. Paul came this way: he was running by with great speed, but one called to him out of heaven, Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me?' Oh, what voice is that which melts his heart, and takes his false strength away? What voice is that which makes him lie so low and humble in the dust? It is a voice from the crucified Redeemer. 'I am Jesus of Nazareth, whom thou persecutest,' Acts xxii. 8. Yes, hard and dangerous and hopeless as it seems, some come even this way on their road to glory. "Look at the map once more, at the road No. 3. A plunging in the ditch.' 'Neither do I condemn thee: go, and sin no more,' John viii. 11. I am to call the righteous, but sinners to repentance,' Matt. ix. 13. not come Many, very many come this way; they walk uprightly as they deem, in an even path for some time, when suddenly being overcome by temptation, drawn aside by some besetting sin, they break forth into some glaring immorality. Then is the ground taken from under their feet. Then do they plunge in the ditch, and their own clothes abhor them. Then are there terrors, and earthquakes, and gaspings in the soul! And, oh glorious signs! this is often the time of dawning mercy. "These poor, terrified, self-condemned, stand afar off from others. They dare not company with the holy. What is the house of God to them? What is the blessed book to them? There is a throbbing in the conscience, a shunning and trembling in the heart, a hiding of the face. They are not so much as worthy to lift up their eyes toward heaven; but beat upon the breast, saying, 'God, be merciful to me a sinner!' Luke xviii. 13. "Little reck they where they are! These are at the foot of the cross, though they see it not. Their eyes are holden for a season, 'that they should not know Him.' "But they shall know him presently. He will bear with their cries a little longer, for he loves them; then he will show them his side and his hands, and they will cry out, My Lord, and my God!' John xx. 28. "The adulterous woman came this way; Mary Magdalene came this way; the dying thief came this way. Oh, dark, and miry, and terrible as the road is, a goodly company come this way. "And now let me be comforted in the matter of those I love; so that they are coming to God and going to glory, what does it matter which way ? What is that to me? And that they are coming, I will hope because I ask not their salvation of myself. He has put the cry into my heart who hath said, ́ ́ Ask, and it shall be given you,' Matt. vii. 7. "I do not often pray peradventurously for any body and every body. I would if I had leisure. I would if it were not for this ceaseless and mighty yearning for the safety of those I love. I pray for those whom God brings into my heart, and allows me to bring before him when I pray. I bring them to the foot of the cross, and my prayer is, Father, glorify thyself in them, that they also may glorify thee.'” ENGLISH HISTORY. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE SIX TEENTH CENTURY: WITH MISCELLANE soverayne will arise, warm his shirte by the fyre, and se ye have a fote shete made in this manner: fyrst, set a chayre OUS PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO THAT by the fyre, with a cuyshen under his PERIOD. DRESS. A considerable number of pictures remain, which were executed during the seventeenth century, representing the costume of that period. The above engraving is from an old picture representing sir Thomas More and his children; it gives a good idea of a respectable family in the reign of Henry VIII. In the middle are sir John More in his robes as a judge; and his son, sir Thomas More, as chancellor. On one side are two females standing, Elizabeth, daughter of sir Thomas, and her companion, Margaret Gige. Behind is the youthful wife of sir John. On the other side is Alice, the wife of sir Thomas; before her are Cecilia and Margaret, daughters of sir Thomas; John More, a youth, standing by the side of his father; the figure next him is Paterson, the fool or jester kept by sir Thomas, afterwards given, by him, to the lord Mayors of London. Various articles of furniture, books, a clock, and a viol, are represented. The articles of dress, worn by persons of rank, are described in the directions given to a chamberlain, "how to dress his sovereign," at the commencement of this period. "At morne, when your fete, then sprede a shete over the chayre, and se there be redy a kerchife and combe; then warme his petycote, his doublet, and his stomachere; and then put on his hosen, and his shone or slyppers, then stryke up his hosen mannerly, and tye them up; then lace his doublet, hole by hole, and laye the necke clothe, and kimbe his heed; then look ye have a basyn and an ewer with warme water and a towell, washe his hands; then knele upon your knee, and aske your soverayne what robe he will were, and put it upon him; then do his gyrdell about him, and take your leve mannerly." The obsequious chamberlain was then to go to the church or chapel, and make "the soverayne's closet" ready; then to the chamber, and make the bed; to beat the feather bed, "but loke ye waste no feders." process of putting to bed was similar, but of course reversed, and concluded with driving out the "dogge or catte." Such was the process with Henry VII. and Henry VIII. The The following anecdote, from Camden, shows what ridiculous fashions were often in vogue, and the increasing desire of the middle classes to imitate their superiors. Sir Philip Calthrop bought on a time The frame for making stockings was invented in 1599, by William Lee, of St. John's College, Cambridge, and was a curious specimen of mechanism at that period. as much fine French tawny cloth as never would wear cloth stockings again. should make him a gown, and sent it to Knitted worsted stockings were also the taylor's to be made. John Drakes, esteemed. The dress of Mary Stuart, a shoemaker, of Norwich, coming to at her execution, is described: she the said taylor's, and seeing the knight's wore blue worsted stockings, with silver gown cloth lying there, liking it well, clocks; a head dress of fine lawn, edged caused the taylor to buy him as much of with bone lace, a mantle of black satin, the same cloth, and price, to the same faced with sable; her pourpoint was of intent; and farther bade him to make it | black figured satin; a bodice of crimson of the same fashion, that the knight satin, and a skirt of crimson velvet. would have his made of. Not long after, the knight coming to the taylor's to take measure of his gown, perceiving the like cloth lying there, asked of the taylor whose it was. Quoth the taylor, "It is John Drakes' the shoemaker, who will have it made of the self-same fashion that yours is made of." "Well," said the knight, "in good time be it! I will," said he, "have mine made as full of cuts as thy shears can make it." "It shall be done," said the taylor; whereupon, because the time drew near, he made haste to finish both garments. John Drakes had no time to go to the taylor's till Christmas-day, for serving of customers, when he had hoped to have worn his gown; perceiving the same to be full of cuts, he began to swear at the taylor for making his gown after that sort, "I have done nothing," quoth the taylor, "but that you bid me; for as sir Philip Calthrop's garment is, even so have I made yours. "By my latchet, or shoe tie," quoth John Drakes, "I will never wear gentleman's fashion again!" Laws were frequently passed to check excess in apparel. Only the higher classes of laymen were permitted to wear coats or gowns of costly materials, but a gown of some sort was worn by all engaged in civil occupations, unless of the lowest classes. The forms of the gowns varied, and they were often richly ornamented with gold, pearls, jewels, and lace. Furs were much valued ; also the feathers of birds, frequently the whole skin. Henry VII. paid 17. 4s. for an "estryche" (ostrich) skin for a stomacher, whether for himself or his queen does not appear. The hose assumed the form of trowsers, usually tight about the leg. Silk hose or stockings are mentioned as early as the reign of Henry VIII., but they were scarce articles even twenty years later, when a pair of knit silk hose was presented to the queen by her silk woman, in the third year of her reign. It was considered an article of value, and she is said to have declared roundly, that she The female costume then, as in other days, was still more fantastic than the garb of men; the representations are numerous, and must be familiar to the reader. Stubbes describes the gowns: "Some with sleeves hanging down to the skirts, trailing on the ground, and cast over the shoulder like cow-tails; some with sleeves much shorter, cut up the arm, drawn out with sundry colours, and pointed with silk ribbons." The upper articles of female dress were usually of costly materials; velvet, satin, cloth of gold, and embroidered work, are enumerated in the descriptions of dress in the higher ranks; the middle classes wore gowns of woollen, often costing from 10s. to 14s. the yard, with such ornaments on their heads and necks as they could afford. The women usually wore caps or coifs, sometimes a sort of bonnet; the variety of form was endless. The coverings for the head, worn by men, were also various; to encourage the cappers, who were home manufacturers, a law was passed, in 1571, ordering that all persons, above six years of age, under the degree of nobility, should wear caps of wool, knit and dressed in England, under a penalty of four groats. False hair began to be worn towards the close of the sixteenth century; so that it was dangerous for children, with fine locks, to wander into lonely places. The addition was by tying in false locks, rather than by periwigs. The queen of Henry VII., as early as 1494, paid for frontlets 31. 13s. 4d. The barber of that monarch was paid 27. 12s. for shaving the king from the 25th day of March to June 25th. Farmers and countrymen wore clothes of russet cloth or leather; the citizens were dressed much as the children of Christ's hospital, in London, now are attired: yellow stockings or hose were common. oaths, and unseemly conduct, were subject to fines. Proceeding to the close of this period, we find, that in the reign of queen Eli farthingale, or large round petticoat, became common. The ruff led to the invention of starch, which was severely censured by some of the writers of the day. The use of it was first taught by a Flemish woman, named Plasse, who came to London in 1564, and taught the art, charging each scholar four or five pounds for instruction; the starch was then made by the starcher herself, and was frequently coloured red, blue, or purple. The kirtle was a sort of under gown, the skirt of the upper robe being drawn to each side. Serving men often wore liveries of the colours adopted by their masters, if persons of rank; but blue was the colour usually worn by men servants. The jackets of the London firemen and water-zabeth, the ruff, the stomacher, and the men, preserve the costume of this period: badges, with armorial bearings, or some device assumed by noble families, were commonly worn on the sleeve. The number of retainers, or serving men, was very great. The Tudor princes limited the number by severe laws, to break down this remnant of feudal customs, and lessen the mass of idle, useless followers, ready at all times to insult or injure any one who displeased their master. Lord Burgley, who may be considered as an economist, and having a well-regulated family, had a hundred servants. But, at that period, in addi̟tion to the common servants, and to young persons who were in the family to receive instruction, rather than as servants; it was usual for retainers to grow grey, and to be kept till they died in their services. Fidelity was thus encouraged. Shakspeare has well described one of these retainers, but rather as a specimen of a past age, than as common in his own day. The aged Adam offers the son five hundred crowns, saved in his father's service, and declares, That fashion which causes the bond between master and servant to be dissolved continually, is indeed a bad one. It proceeds from covetousness that thinks to save, and from pride that refuses to obey; with selfish desire for indulgence, that shrinks from needful services, if out of the common course; but in the result, the master spends more, and the servant has to endure more, than if mutual forbearance, and due consideration, were not too often forgotten by both. The injunctions of holy writ, on this subject, are very clear and strong; and are for the welfare of both classes. Servants are exhorted to obedience, not with eye service; masters are to forbear threatening, and to do that which is just and equal. Harrington's orders for household servants, in 1566 and 1592, show earnest desire to preserve decorum in a numerous family, and this, at a time when the manners were far less polished than at the present day. Absence from prayer, Under all the finery which appeared in the garb of both sexes, too often, there was only a scanty supply of dirty body linen, though these articles were frequently made of costly materials. Stubbes describes men's shirts of cambric and lawn, wrought with needlework, the meanest costing a crown, but sometimes as much as ten pounds. A lady's shift is described, in a ballad, as one half of fine holland, the other of needlework. On new year's day, 1530, the lady Elizabeth presented her brother, prince Edward, with 66 a shyrte of cam'yke, of her own woorkynge." In 1577, the earl of Essex, then a student at Cambridge, paid Mrs. Croxton, in Cheapside, 40s. for four shirts, at 10s. a piece; and 10s. for six handkerchiefs. Also, for a broad riding hat, 8s. Handkerchiefs were often wrought with silk and gold. It is needless to say, that such linen seldom visited the wash tub, or the running stream, then resorted to for cleansing linen. The variety of articles of dress, worn even by children, is shown by a letter from lady Brien, who had the care of the princess Elizabeth, upon the death of her mother. The governess applies, "that she may have som rayment; for she hath neither gown nor kertel, nor petecot, nor no manner of linnin for smokes, nor cerchefes, nor sleves, nor rayls, nor body-stychets, nor handcerchers, nor mofelers, nor begins." The last article was a close cap worn by children. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, the male dress became more inelegant. Large trunk hose, long waisted doublets, with short cloaks and ruffs, are seen in the pictures of those times. The doublets were sometimes quilted or stuffed with five or six pounds of wool; the breeches were also stuffed, and so large, that the seats of the parliament house being found too narrow for the new fashion, others of greater width were fixed. The cloaks were of all lengths and colours, and for general use, took the place of gowns; they were often of costly materials, lined and bordered with fur. The anecdote of Raleigh's attracting the notice of queen Elizabeth, by spreading his new plush cloak over a dirty puddle, that she might step upon it, is well known. The covering for the head varied from the flat cap of the citizen to hats rising in a peak or sharp point, a foot or more above the head. The best hats, felted of beaver, came from abroad, and cost 20s. or 30s. each. They were ornamented with feathers and embroidery, and even with gold bands of "massie goldsmiths' work." The hair was worn in divers fashions, "sometimes polled, sometimes curled, or suffered to grow at length, like women's lockes, many times cut off above or under the ears, round as by a woodden dish." The variety of beards was great, some shaven from the chin, not a few cut short, some made round, like a rubbing brush; others with a peak, or now and then suffered to grow long, "the barbers being grown to be so cunning in this behalf as the tailors." The armour, worn by nobles and the military, was chiefly plate armour, often elegant in form and workmanship. Henry VII. paid for garnishing a sallett, or head piece, 381. 1s. 4d. As the use of firearms prevailed, armour was less trusted to. The clergy wore their official costume. The higher orders, in the days of Popery, like Wolsey, indulged themselves in splendid apparel, often in addition to their sacerdotal robes. The latter were costly: the father of queen Catherine Parr left to the abbey of Clairvaux, the vast sum of 1,6007., equal to 20,000%. at the present day, to buy copes and vestments." After the Reformation, these fine trappings nearly disappeared. Queen Elizabeth enforced the use of the surplice, or white robe, in the public services; but in common life, the clergy were required to wear black gowns, "befitting scholars.' Physicians and lawyers wore their dress made full, and of a grave character. They usually walked with canes or staves. Swords or daggers were worn by all ranks of laymen, excepting the lower orders. The serving man, when attending his master abroad, frequently 66 . | carried a short sword, and a small round shield or buckler. Street frays were common, and whatever weapons were at hand were used, both for attack and defence. Even the apprentices had their bats or clubs ready. When attending their masters or mistresses at night, they usually carried lanthorns; the nobility were attended, at night, by torch bearers. The variety of jewellery, worn by men and women, was very great; the forms were often elegant, haly wrought and expensive. The lists of articles, presented to queen Elizabeth by her courtiers, contain many articles of this description. Three may be inserted, selected almost at hazard. In 1582, “a juell being a shipp of golde, garnished with six faire dyamondes, and other small dyamondes and rubyes; the sayles spredd abrode, with a word enamuled on them." "A juell of golde, being a catte and myce playing with her, garnished with smale dyamondes and perle." "A flower of golde, garnished with sparckes of diamonds, rubyes, ophales, with an agathe of her majestis' phisnamy (portrait) and a perle pendante, with devices painted in it." These articles were carefully delivered to the officers whose duty it was to take charge of them. Rings, chains, and other ornaments, were prized by all ranks. The beaus, as well as the belles, of Elizabeth's reign, wore jewels, or ribands in their ears. and During the “twelve nights' reign” of the lady Jane Grey, she had the crown jewels delivered to her: these, and other valuables, she was afterwards required to give up. Mary seems to have looked very sharply after them; for sundry articles not being forthcoming, the lord treasurer had to apply for her majesty's gracious acquittance of what were deficient. Some are very singular to appear in a list of royal possessions, little piece of a broken ring of gold,” "Four old halfpence of silver," "xvi.d. two farthings and two halfpence," "A pair of twichers of silver," "Two shaving clothes, and fourteen pair of gloves of divers sorts." Jane had previously given up coin to the value of 541l. 13s. 2d. A Shoes varied in shape and material. In the reign of Mary, square toes were fashionable; an act, however, was passed to limit the width of the toes to six inches. Expensive buckles, and roses on the shoes, were introduced. Boots and spurs were often worn by men, when not on horseback. Shoes were com |