MOUNTAINS. RIVERS AND STREAMS. Rivers and Streams.-The rivers and streams lying within the state of Vermont are very numerous, but small. They, in most cases, originate among the Green Mountains, and their courses are short and generally rapid. Connecticut river washes the whole eastern border of the state, but belongs to New Hampshire, the western margin of that stream forming the boundary line between New Hampshire and Vermont. The Connecticut receives the waters from 3,700 square miles of our territory. It receives from Ver the intervening portions are so high and steep as not to admit of roads being made over them, with the exception of that portion lying between the Lamoille and Missisco. This part of the Green Mountains presents some of the most lofty summits in the state; particularly the Nose and Chin in Mansfield, and Camel's Hump in Huntington. These, together with other important mountains and summits in the state, are exhibited in the foregoing table and cut, and will also be described in the Gazetteer, under their respective names. The sides, and, in most cases, the sum-mont, besides numerous smaller streams, mits of the mountains in Vermont, are covered with evergreens, such as spruce, hemlock and fir. On this account the French, being the first civilized people who visited this part of the world, early gave to them the name of Verd Mont, or Green Mountain; and when the inhabitants of the New Hampshire Grants assumed the powers of government, in 1777, they adopted this name, contracted by the omission of the letter d, for the name of the new state.* *This name is said to have been adopted upon the recommendation of Dr. Thomas Young-(see part 2d, page 106.) The following account of the christening of the Green Mountains, is given by the Rev. Samuel Peters in his life of the Rev. Hugh Peters, published at New York in 1807. the waters of the eleven following rivers, viz: Wantasticook, or West, Saxton's, Williams', Black, Ottaquechy, White, Ompompanoosuc, Wait's, Wells', Passumpsic, and Nulhegan. Clyde, Barton and Black river run northerly into Memphremagog lake. Missisco, Lamoille, Winooski and Poultney river and Otter creek flow westerly into lake Champlain, and the Battenkill and Hoosic westerly into Hudson river. Deerfield river runs southerly from Vermont and falls into the Connecticut in Massachusetts; and the Coatacook and Pike river head in the north part of the state and run northerly into Canada, the former uniting with Massuippi river at Lenoxville and the latter falling into the head of Missisco bay. All these streams and many smaller ones will be described in the Gazetteer under their respective names. "Verd-Mont was a name given to the Green Mountains in October, 1763, by the Rev. Dr. Peters, the first clergyman who paid a visit to the 30,000 settlers in that country, in the presence of Col. Taplin, Col. Willes, Col. Peters, Judge PeNo country in the world is better supters and many others, who were proprietors of a plied with pure and wholesome water large number of townships in that colony. The than Vermont. There are scarcely any ceremony was performed on the top of a rock farms in the state which are not well wastanding on a high mountain, then named Mount tered by springs, or brooks; and none, Pisgah because it provided to the company a clear with the exception of those upon the islsight of lake Champlain at the west, and of Con- ands in lake Champlain, which are not in necticut river at the east, and overlooked all the the vicinity of one, or more, considerable trees and hills in the vast wilderness at the north mill stream. But while Vermont is so and south. The baptism was performed in the abundantly supplied with water, there is, following manner: Priest Peters stood on the probably, no part of our country in which pinnacle of the rock, when he received a bottle of so little stagnant water is found. The spirits from Col. Taplin; then haranguing the waters of the lakes and ponds are usually company with a short history of the infant settle-clear and transparent, and nearly all the ment, and the prospect of its becoming an impreg- springs and streams are brisk and lively. nable barrier between the British colonies on the It is a common remark that the streams south and the late colonies of the French on the in this state have diminished very much north, which might be returned to their late own-in size, since the country began to be ers for the sake of governing America by the dif- cleared and settled, and it is doubtless ferent powers of Europe, he continued, 'We have here met upon the rock Etam, standing on Mount true to some extent. Many mills, which Pisgah, which makes a part of the everlasting hill, the spine of Asia, Africa and America,holding together the terrestrial ball, and dividing the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean-to dedicate and consecrate this extensive wilderness to God manifested in the flesh, and to give it a new name worthy of the Athenians and ancient Spartans,-which new name is Verd Mont, in token that her mountains and hills shall be ever green and shall never die.' He then poured out the spirits and cast the bottle upon the rock Etam." There is no doubt that the name Verd Mont had been applied to this range of mountains long previous to the above transaction, (if, indeed, it ever took place;) but we do not find that the name Verd generally known as the New Hampshire Grants, Mont, or Vermont, was ever applied to the territory previous to the declaration of the independence of the territory in January, 1777. LAKES AND PONDS. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. formerly had an abundance, have ceased | state of New York, and more than half of to receive the necessary supply of water during a considerable portion of the year; and many mill sites, which were once thought valuable, have, from the same cause, become entirely useless. One of the principal causes of this diminution of our streams is supposed to be the cutting down of the forests, which formerly threw off immense quantities of vapor into the atmosphere, which was again precipitated upon the earth in rain and snow. But it is believed that the quantity of water which annually passes off in our streams is not so much less than formerly as is generally imagined. Before the country was cleared, the whole surface of the ground was deeply covered with leaves, limbs, and logs, and the channels of all the smaller streams were much obstructed by the same. The consequence was, that, when the snows dissolved in the spring, or the rains fell in the summer, the waters were retained among the leaves, or retarded by the other obstructions, so as to pass off slowly, and the streams were kept up, nearly uniform as to size, during the whole year. But since the country has become settled, and the obstructions, which retarded the water, removed by freshets, when the snows melt or the rains fall, the waters run off from the surface of the ground quickly, the streams are raised suddenly, run rapidly, and soon subside. In consequence of the water being thus carried off more rapidly, the streams would be smaller than formerly during a considerable part of the year, even though the quantity of water be the same. It is a well known fact that the freshets in Vermont are more sudden and violent than when the country was new. The waters of the lakes, ponds and streams are universally soft, miscible with soap, and in general free from foreign substances. And the same may be said of most of the springs, particularly on the Green Mountains, and in that portion of the state lying east of these mountains. The waters of most of the springs and wells in the western part of the state are rendered hard and unsuitable for washing by the lime they hold in solution, and there are many springs which are highly impregnated with Epsom salts, and others containing iron, sulphuretted hydrogen, &c. These mineral springs will be described in another place. Lakes and Ponds. Small lakes and ponds are found in all parts of Vermont, but there are no large bodies of water which lie wholly within the state. Lake Champlain lies between this state and the it within the limits of Vermont. It extends in a straight line from south to north, 102 miles along the western boundary, from Whitehall to the 45th degree of latitude, and thence about 24 miles to St. Johns in Canada, affording an easy communication with that province and with New York. This lake is connected with Hudson river, at Albany, by a canal 64 miles in length; so that the towns ly. ing on the shores of Lake Champlain have direct communication by water with the cities of Troy, Albany, Hudson, and New York, and, by means of the great western canal, with the great western lakes. The length of this lake from south to north, measured in a straight line from one extremity to the other, and supposing it to terminate northerly at St. Johns, is 126 miles. Its width varies from one fourth of a mile to 13 miles, and the mean width is about 4 miles. This would give an area of 567 square miles, two thirds of which lie within the limits of Vermont. The waters, which this lake receives from Vermont, are drained, by rivers and other streams, from 4088 miles of its territory. Its depth is generally sufficient for the navigation of the largest vessels. It received its present name from Samuel Champlain, a French nobleman, who discovered it in the spring of 1609, and who died at Quebec in 1635, and was not drowned in its waters, as has been often said.* One of the names given to this lake by the aborigines is said to have been Caniaderi-Guarunte, signifying the mouth or door of the country. If so, it was very appropriate, as it forms the gate-way between the country on the St. Lawrence and that on the Hudson. The name of this lake in the Abenâqui tongue was Petawa-bouque, signifying alternate land and water, in allusion to the numerous islands and projecting points of land along the lake. Previous to the settlement of the country by Europeans, this lake had long been the thorough-fare between hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the scene of many a mortal conflict. And after the settlement, it continued the same in reference to the French and English colonies, and subsequently in reference to the English in Canada and the United States. In consequence of this peculiarity of its location, the name of Lake Champlain stands connected with some of the most interesting events in the annals of our country; and the transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga, and Crown Point, * See Part II, p. 2. Spafford'sGaz.of N. Y., p. 98. MEMPHREMAGOG LAKE. BAYS, SWAMPS, ISLANDS, SOIL. and Plattsburgh, and many other places, | hall. Besides these there are several united with the variety and beauty of the scenery, the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, and the unrivalled excellency of their commanders, render a tour through this lake one of the most interesting and agreeable to the enlightened traveller. A historical account of the most important transactions upon Lake Champlain, together with some account of the navigation of the lake, and partic- Swamps.-These are hardly of suffiularly of the steamboats which have been cient importance to deserve a separate nobuilt upon it, will be found in part second, tice. Though considerably numerous, and a much more minute description of they are, in general, of small extent, and, the lake under its name in part third. in many cases, have been, or may be Memphremagog lake is situated on the drained and converted into excellent north line of the state, and about midway lands. They are most common in the between lake Champlain and Connecticut northern and northeastern parts of the river. It extends from south to north, state. In the county of Essex are several and is nearly parallel with lake Cham- unsettled townships, which are said to be plain. It is 30 miles long, and the aver- made up of hills and mountains with age width about two miles. One third swamps lying between them, which renpart of this lake lies in Vermont; the oth-der them to a great extent incapable of er two thirds in Canada. The name of settlement. There is a considerable tract this lake in the Abenâqui tongue was of swampy land at the south end of MemMem-plow-bouque, signifying a large ex-phremagog lake, and another in Highgate panse of water. This, together with numerous small lakes and ponds, which lie wholly within the state, will be described in part third, either under their names, or in the account of the towns in which they are situated. There is abundant evidence that most of our lakes and ponds were formerly much more extensive than they are at present, and that they have been diminished, both by the deposit of earthy matter brought in by the streams, and by the deepening of the channels at their outlets; and there is also sufficient proof of the former existence of many ponds in this state, which have long since become dry land by the operation of the same causes. Several of these will be pointed out in the descriptions of the rivers in part third, particularly in the description of Winooski river, Barton river, &c. smaller bays lying along the east shore of Lake Champlain, and a considerable bay at the south end of Lake Memphremagog, called South bay. Most of these bays will be more particularly described under their names in part third, and also some of the most important bays lying along the west shore of Lake Champlain, and belonging to New York. Bays.-The shores of Lake Champlain are indented by numerous bays, most of which are small and of little con about the mouth of Missisco river. When the country was new, there were many stagnant coves along the margin and among the islands of Lake Champlain, which, during the hotter parts of the summer, generated intermittent and bilious fevers. But, since the clearing of the country, these have been, to a considerable extent, filled up, and, with the causes which produced them, those disorders have nearly disappeared. Islands. The principal islands belonging to Vermont, are South Hero, North Hero, and La Motte. South Hero, called also Grand Island, is 13 miles long, and is divided into two townships, by the name of South Hero and Grand Isle. North Hero is about 11 miles long, but very narrow, and constitutes a township bearing the same name as the island. Isle la Motte lies westward of North Hero, and constitutes a township by the same name. A more particular account of these islands, and also a description of Juniper island and several others lying in Lake Champlain, will be found under their names in part third. sequence. Missisco bay is the largest of these, and belongs principally to Vermont, lying between the townships of Alburgh and Highgate, and extending some distance into Canada. The other bays of Soil and Productions.-The soil of most consequence, lying along the east Vermont is generally a rich loam, but vashore of the lake and belonging to Ver-ries considerably according to the nature mont, are M'Quam bay in Swanton, Belamaqueen bay lying between St. Albans and Georgia, Mallets bay in Colchester, Burlington bay between Appletree point and Red Rocks point, Shelburne bay between Red Rocks point and Pottier's * Intervalo. This word has not yet found a place point, Button bay in Ferrisburgh, and in our dictionaries, and there has been much earping about it by Dr. Dwight, Mr. Kendall, and other East bay between Westhaven and White-travellers and critics. But we use it, notwithstand and compositions of the rocks in the dif ferent parts of the state. Bordering our lakes, ponds, and rivers, are considerable tracts of rich and beautiful intervale* 1 SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. MEDICINAL SPRINGS. the farmer who is saving and industrious seldom fails of having his barn filled with fodder for his horses, cattle and sheep, his granary with corn, wheat, rye, oats, peas and beans, and his cellar with potatoes, apples, and other esculent vegetables. A sufficient quantity of grain for the supply of the inhabitants might easily be raised in all parts of the state, yet the greater part of the lands are better adapt and mountains, which are not arable on account of their steepness, or rocks, afford the best of pasturage for cattle and sheep. Of the fruits, nuts, berries, &c., which grow in Vermont, both wild and cultivated, a more particular account will be given in a subsequent chapter on the botany of the state. lands, which consist of a dark, deep and ing, because it will express our meaning more briefly the shore of Lake Champlain, in the counties of Addison and Rutland, the waters generally are impregnated with Epsom salts, (sulphate of magnesia). Some of the springs are so highly charged with these salts, in the dryer parts of the year, that a pail full of the water will produce a pound of the salts. They have been manufactured, for medicinal purposes, in some quantities, and, did the price of the article make it an object, they might be made here to almost any extent. said to resemble the Harrow-Gate waters in England, and those of Ballcastle and Castlemain in Ireland. These waters are found to be efficacious in scrofulous and many other cutaneous complaints, and the springs at Newbury, Tunbridge, Hardwick, &c., have been much resorted to by valetudinarians in their vicinity. Of medicinal springs on the west side of the Green Mountains, those of Clarendon and Alburgh have acquired the greatest notoriety. It is now about 16 years since the springs at Clarendon began to be known beyond their immediate neighborhood. Since that time their reputation has been annually extending, and the number of visiters increasing, till they have at length become a place of considerable resort for the afflicted from various CLARENDON SPRINGS. CLARENDON AND PLYMOUTH CAVES. parts of the country. They are situated in a | of the year, and water stands in the lowpicturesque and beautiful region, 7 miles est parts of it at all seasons.* southwest from Rutland, and have, in The Plymouth caves are situated at the their immediate vicinity, good accommo- base of a considerable mountain, on the dations for 500 visiters. The waters are southwest side of Black river, and about found to be highly efficacious in affections 50 rods from that stream. They are exof the liver, dispepsia, urinary and all cu-cavations among the lime rock, which taneous complaints, rheumatism, invete- have evidently been made by running rate sore eyes, and many others, and they water. The principal cave was discovpromise fair to go on increasing in noto-ered about the first of July, 1818, and on riety and usefulness. These waters differ the 10th of that month was thoroughly in their composition from any heretofore explored by the Author, who furnished known, but resemble most nearly the the first description of it, which was German Spa water. For their curative published shortly after in the Vermont properties they are believed to be indebted Journal at Windsor. The passage into wholly to the gases they contain. They this cavern is nearly perpendicular, have been analyzed by Mr. Augustus A. about the size of a common well, and Hayes, of Roxbury, Mass., with the fol- 10 feet in depth. This leads into the first lowing results. One gallon, or 235 cubic room which is of an oval form, 30 feet inches of the water contained, long, 20 wide, and its greatest height about 15 feet. It appears as if partly filled up with loose stones, which had been thrown in at the mouth of the cave. From this to the second room is a broad Carbonic acid gas Carbonate of Lime 46.16 cubic inch. 2.74 grs. Sulphate of Magnesia One hundred cubic inches of the gas which was evolved from the water, con sisted of sloping passage. This room is a little more than half as large as the first. The bottom of it is the lowest part of the cave, being about 25 feet below the surface of the ground, and is composed principally of loose sand, while the bottoms of all the other rooms are chiefly rocks and stones. The passage into the third room is 4 feet wide and 5 high, and the room is 14 feet long, 8 wide, and 7 high. The fourth room is 30 feet long, 12 wide, and 18 high, and the rocks, which form the sides, in Carbonic acid gas 0.05 cubic inches. 1.50 Oxygen gas Nitrogen gas 98.45 The Alburgh springs do not differ materially from the springs at Newbury, Tunbridge, and other places in the northeastern part of the state, owing their med-cline towards each other and meet at the icinal properties principally to the sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which they con tain. ous. top like the ridge of a house. The fifth room, very much resembling an oven in shape, is 10 feet long, 7 wide, and 4 high, Caves. There are no caves in Vermont and the passage into it from the third which will bear comparison with some of room is barely sufficient to admit a person the caverns found in other parts of the to crawl in. At the top of this room is a world, and yet we have several, which conical hole, 10 inches across at the base are deserving the attention of the curi- and extending 2 feet into the rock. From Those at Clarendon, Plymouth and the north side of the second room are two Danby are the most interesting. The openings leading to the sixth and seventh, Clarendon cave is situated on the south-which are connected together, and each easterly side of a mountain in the westerly part of that town. The descent into it is through a passage 2 feet in diameter and 31 feet in length, and which makes an angle of 35 or 40 with the horizon. It then opens into a room 20 feet long, 12 wide, and 18 or 20 feet high. The floor, sides and roof of this room are all of solid rock, but very rough and uneven. From the north part of this room is a passage about 3 feet in diameter and 24 feet in length, but very rough and irregular, which leads to another room 20 feet wide, 30 feet long and 18 feet high. This room, being situated much lower than the first, is usually filled with water in the spring about 15 feet long, 7 wide, and 5 high. From the seventh room is a narrow passage which extends northerly 15 or 16 feet into the rocks, and there appears to terminate. When discovered, the roof and sides of this cavern were beautifully ornamented with stalactites, and the bottom with corresponding stalagmites, but most of these have been rudely broken off and carried away by the numerous visiters. The temperature, both in winter and summer, varies little from 444°, which is about the mean temperature of the climate of Vermont in that latitude. A few * Williams' History of Vermont, vol. I, p. 29. |