About three miles from Dundee waterfide we pass by the old caftle of Leuchars, formerly in the poffeffion of the earls of Southefk, but forfeited in 1715; afterwards purchased by the York-buildings Company; and now the property of the Honourable Robert Lindsay. We foon enter the village of Leuchars. The neat and comfortable appearance that many of the houses exhibit is truly pleasing, and is a proof of the rifing industry and civilization of its inhabitants. A little farther on we cross the river Eden over a bridge of confiderable antiquity, confisting of fix arches *. Here the river is feen to fwell into a bay, which joins the bay of St. Andrews a little to the east. About a mile beyond this, the ancient city of St. Andrews comes into the range of the wide extended prospect; as we approach which, the mind is impreffed with an affemblage of forrowful ideas, in contemplating the filence and gloom that feem to reign amid the ruins, ftill venerable and vast, as feen extending along the fea fhore. "The city of St. Andrews, when it had loft its "archiepifcopal pre-eminence, gradually decayed: one of its "streets is now loft: in those that remain, there is the filence “ and folitude of inactive indigence and gloomy depopula❝tion t."

St. Andrews, in former ages, was no lefs diftinguished as the great emporium of the eaft coaft of Scotland, than for its confe quence in religious establishments, and its univerfity. Before the reformation of religion, it was deemed the principal refort. of merchants and traders from every part of the commercial

* Built by Henry Wardlaw, bishop of St. Andrews. He died in. 1440. See Keith's Catalogue, and Martin's State of the See of St. Andrews.

f Johnfon's Journey to the Weftern Ifles.

world

world with which Scotland had the leaft intercourfe.

Two or

three hundred veffels, it is faid, were wont to frequent the harbour and there was an annual fair held here (fimilar to those which still exist in Germany, Holland, and other parts of the continent), which lafted for weeks: but fo great is the falling off in this respect fince the Reformation, as appears by the tax-roll of the royal boroughs, that though in the year 1556 the taxes paid by the city of St. Andrews amounted to 410l., those in the year 1695 did not exceed 70l. From ancient records it appears also, that there were a hundred and fifty-three brewers and fifty-three bakers at one time conftantly employed here: at prefent, however, not a third of the number of brewers, nor one fifth part of the bakers are to be found in the town and its neighbourhood *.

Much of the wealth and confequence of St. Andrews was owing to the religious establishments which in remote periods were founded and gradually enlarged, multiplied, and endowed in this corner of our island. All our hiftorians agree †, that foon after the Scots and Picts were converted to the Chriftian faith, Mucrofs, afterwards named Kilrymont, or Kilreule ‡, now St. ANDREWS, became a place of confiderable resort, from the fame of its fanctity, and peculiar felicity in being poffeffed of

*See Stat. Acc. vol. xiii. p. 191. Douglas's Defcrip. of the Eaft Coaft of Scot!. P. 19.

+ Hect. Boeth. lib. vi. fol. 108. Leflie, lib. iii. Ufher, Camden, Spottifwood, Sibbald, &c.

キ

"The place then was a forell of wild boars (fays Martine), and was called in the

country language Mucrofs, i. e. a Land of Boars; from muc, a fow, and ross, a

"land or ifland." Vide Martine's Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ. Morifon's St. Andrews, 1747. p. 17.

certain relics, faid to have confifted of "the arm-bone, three fingers of the right hand, a tooth, and one of the lids of the apostle's (St. Andrew's) knee." Hence the apostle St. Andrew became the tutelar faint of the Scots and Picts; the legend refpecting which circumftance is much to the following purport. About the year 370, St. Regulus, a monk of Patræ, a city of Achaia, was warned in a vifion to emigrate to "a region towards the weft, fituate in the utmoft parts of the world," and to carry along with him as co-partners in his perilous journey a priest, two deacons*, eight hermits, and three devout virgins, together with the relics which he had ftolen from the shrine in which they were kept. And after a voyage of much " toyle "and hazard they fell into the Germane ocean, where they were "long toft with grievous tempefts, till, at laft, by force of a "ftorme the ship was driven into the bay, near the place "where St. Andrews now ftands, and there fplit afunder on "the rocks; but Regulus and his companie were all brought "fafe to shoare, having nothing left them but the relicks, which "they were careful above all things to preserve." Soon after the arrival of this holy man and his companions, Herguftus, king of the Picts, heard of the fame and fanctity of their lives, and, "when he beheld the gravitie and pietie of the

men, and the forme of their service, was fo taken therewith "that he settled a constant abode for them on the fame place,

Bishop Keith fays, "DAMIANUS a prefbyter, GELASIUs and Cubaculus two deacons." Martine calls one of thefe deacons Jubaculus. Perhaps it is an error of transcription. Indeed it is faid the MS. copies of Martine's Reliq. Divi Andr. differ very confiderably. This may account for fome feeming inaccuracies in Keith's quotations, p. 1. Introduc. The copy which he used is that in the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh.

" and

" and took order for their entertainment."

The pious king of

the Picts having thus granted an establishment to this colony of Christians, a cell and a chapel in honour of their leader were built, and on this occafion the name of this port was changed from Mucross to Kilrule or Kilrymont. But after the expulsion of the Picts by Kenneth III, the metropolitan church formerly established at Abernethie, the capital of the Pictish dominions, was thence tranflated to Kilrymont, at which time the church thus tranflated was called St. Andrews; and the city, which on this occafion was newly peopled by a colony of Scots under the protection of Fiffus Duffus, a distinguished leader, to whom Kenneth affigned the province of Pichlandia, now called Fife, taking its name from the metropolitan church St. Andrews, retains it to this day*. Hence, from the relicks of St. Andrew the apoftle being brought by St. Regulus to this ancient city, the former became the tutelar Saint of the Scots, who ftill celebrate his feftival on the 30th November wherever they are difperfed over the habitable globe.

Among the dignitaries who founded and endowed the religious houses belonging to the See of St. Andrews, several of our Scotish writers, particularly Fordun, Wintoun, Balfour, Innis, Spottiswood, Sibbald, Martine, Ruddiman, and Keith, mention fome archbishops and other churchmen who make a confiderable figure in the civil as well as ecclefiaftical history of Scotland.

In the earlier ages of the Scotish church, the Culdees were the electors of the bishops; but after the order of Culdees was

* Martine's Reliq. Divi Andr. Sibbald's Hift. of Fife; Keith's Catalogue; and Stat. Acc. vol. xiii.

fuppreffed, A. D. 1298, the chapters confifted of priors, monks, and canons, and the privilege of electing belonged to them de fu et jure. It continued thus till the fuppreffion of religious houses at the Reformation, after which the archbishop of St. Andrews was elected by eight bishops of his province (as by Act of Parl. A. D. 1617.); and the election continued in this way till the abolition of epifcopacy in Scotland, A. D. 1689*. The bishops of St. Andrews, prior to the erection of the fee into an archiepifcopal diocese, were dignified by the title Epifcopi Scotorum maximi, but were afterwards created Archiepifcopi, et Archipatres, &c. The archbishop of York, however, claimed a precedency over the Scotish church, which, in the year 1471, Pope Sixtus IV. fet afide, when the archbishop of St. Andrews was created Primate and Metropolitan of all Scotland; and this was farther confirmed by Pope Innocent VIII. in his bull of erection †. But foon after the erection of St. Andrews into an archbishopric, the fee of Glasgow obtained a bull from Pope Alexander VI. in order to be erected into an archiepifcopal diocefe; and the king and the estates of parliament confenting and confirming this measure (A. D. 1488.), a keen contest arose between the archbishops and the clergy of each diocese, which terminated in favour' of St. Andrew; fo far at leaft, that while Glasgow was allowed all the honours of metropolitical dignity, St. Andrews should have the actual and full provincial authority, in a manner fimilar to the ancient bishops of Nicodemia and Nice, York and Canterbury. The bishops of St. Andrews were early invefted with legatine powers; and the archbishops were defigned legati nati, and sometimes legati a latere. All abbies and priories