[77] CHAPTER VI. ARCHEOLOGICAL AND ANTIQUARIAN. DIVISION I.-ECCLESIASTICAL. DIVISION II.-MISCELLANEOUS BUILDINGS, &C. DIVISION III.—ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETIES AND MUSEUMS. The In our desire to render all possible as-ed by an explosion of gunpowder, in sistance to the stranger in London, whose 1649, and replaced by a barbarous and tastes may be of an antiquarian or ar- most unsightly steeple. The brasses chæological character, we are necessarily are numerous and of high interest, one compelled, by the very general character represents William Thynne, the editor of this work, to abstain from lengthened of the first edition of Chaucer. and minute detail. But in pointing cover of the font is a good specimen of out the objects most worthy of note, antique wood carving. From its prox we shall endeavour briefly to notice imity to the Tower of London, this their leading features, leaving it to the church has been a receptacle for the discretion of the visitor to make him- bodies of many of the decapitated state self further acquainted with such of the prisoners, including Archbishop Laud, objects as may afford him more than Bishop Fisher, Surrey, the noble poet, usual interest. &c., &c. ALLHALLOWS STAINING, Mark-lane. DIVISION I.-ECCLESIASTICAL. -The body of this church was reThe class of London Churches which built in 1762, but the tower is unin this portion of the work comes under questionably very ancient, supposed our immediate notice, includes only temp. Henry III. To get a view of the such as have escaped destruction by the tower, it is necessary to go through a great fire of 1666, which in number is court (Star-alley) leading from Markvery limited; for it will be remembered lane to Fenchurch-street. Tradition that of the ninety-seven churches with- says that Queen Elizabeth performed in the walls, at the time of the fire, no here her first devotions, after her reless than eighty-four were consumed, lease from the Tower. thirty-four of which were not rebuilt. ST. ANDREW'S UNDERSHAFT, corner But numerous as the old city churches of St. Mary Axe, Leadenhall-street, were, comparatively few among them nearly opposite the India House; is of possessed much architectural merit ; the Perpendicular style, 15th century, and of those still standing we may say, and has a fine east window, containing that their chief features of interest con- portraits of King Edward VI. and four sist in their antiquity. The churches subsequent sovereigns. Here are some of the metropolis will be found most good frescoes. The monuments are very easily accessible on Saturday mornings, noticeable; among others, one to John during the time of cleaning and dust- Stow, the author of the well-known ing the pews. Survey of London, a work of inesti ALLHALLOWS BARKING, Tower-street, mable value to the antiquarian. The near Tower Hill.-Formerly part of the monument is in terra-cotta, and has possessions of the convent at Barking, evidently originally been a likeness. in Essex, hence its distinctive title. The He is represented sitting at a table, structure is Gothic, with the ex-with a pen in his hand, and a book ception of some Norman pillars in the before him. Stow died in great po nave. The original tower was destroy-verty, April 5th, 1605, aged about 80 years. The tomb was erected at the but there is little otherwise interesting expense of his widow. Peter Mot-about the building. teaux, the translator of Don Quixote, CHAPEL OF ST. ETHELREDA, Elylies buried here. It is named Under-place, Holborn-hill. — Here formerly shaft, from a high shaft or may-pole stood the house or palace of the that was placed before the south door, Bishops of Ely, with its spacious garreaching above the steeple, eventually dens and vineyards; near the northburnt by a mob, excited by a preacher end is the Chapel of St. Ethelreda, all holding forth at Paul's Cross. This that remains of this once extensive pile. church is well worthy of a visit. It contains a fine decorated window. ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT, There are many historical associations West Smithfield.-The choir of the connected with this place; the names church of the Priory of St. Bartholo- of Bishops Kirkeby, William de Luda, mew. In style it is chiefly Norman, but John de Hotham, Thomas de Arundel, additions made by Prior Bolton are &c.; and in later times, those of John Perpendicular. Here are several monu- of Gaunt, Radclyff, Earl of Sussex, Earl ments, but the most interesting is the of Warwick, Sir Christopher Hatton, Gothic tomb of Rahere, the first Prior, &c. and a large monument to Sir Walter ST. GILES, Cripplegate, was extenMildmay, founder of Emanuel College, sively repaired in 1545, and has since Cambridge. In point of real interest, received various unimportant alterathis church is one of the most impor- tions. The tower, although antiquated, tant in our list. is anything but beautiful. The old Here S1. BARTHOLOMEW THE LESS is clock continues, four times in twelve within the precincts of the Hospital of hours, to chime forth its psalm tunes, St. Bartholomew, Smithfield. The for the edification of the parishioners. body of the church was rebuilt in 1823, Here was buried Milton the poet; also and contains little that can interest the Fox the martyrologist. Oliver Cromantiquary, except two brasses, and a well was married at this church. few other monuments belonging to the ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. old church. The tower is old. are several monuments which should DUTCH CHURCH, Austin Friars.-be seen. The tombs of Penderell, who Originally the church of the Augustine saved King Charles in the oak, and of Friars, whose house was founded here Chapman, the translator of Homer, in 1243. Stow speaks of it as having a placed there by Inigo Jones, are of "fine spired steeple." It was granted peculiar interest. See also Chapter VII. by Edward VI. to the Dutch nation ST. HELEN'S, Bishopsgate-street, is in London, to be their preaching-place, very old, but the masonry is plain and and is used by them at present. Stow flat; the proportions of the building, also tells us that part of the church, however, are such as to give a pleasing while in the possession of Lord Win-effect, the roof being low, makes the chester, was not only denuded of its width of the aisle appear greater. The monuments, but desecrated by being monuments in this church are numeconverted into stables. The interior rous, and of great interest. There is of the church is worth seeing; it one of Sir John Crosby and his wife; contains some very good decorated also Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir William windows. Judd, Lord Mayor in 1551, &c. &c. ST. ETHELBURGA, Bishopsgate-street. LAMBETH CHURCH, dedicated to St. -This church is, we believe, the small- Mary, adjoins the Archiepiscopal Palace. est in the City; it certainly gives name As a building it possesses little of an to the smallest parish in London. Some architectural character to recommend parts of the stone-work are very old, it to notice, but it is now being exten The sively repaired. We advise an inspec-subsequent history is very interesting; tion of the monuments and tombs, vide Cuningham's Hand-book. should the state of the building be such monuments and tablets in the church as to render them available to the visi- are numerous; amongst them one to tor. Besides some old brasses, there Caxton the printer; and also to Sir are a few antique monuments; also a Walter Raleigh. marble slab to Elias Ashmole, founder ST. MARTIN'S OUTWICH, situated at of the Ashmolean Museum; also some the junction of Threadneedle-street and more modern, but of high interest. In Bishopsgate-street, is a modern buildthe churchyard is the tomb of John ing, but we mention it here to point Tradescant, the collector of antiquities. out some objects of antiquity it conIn the south-east window, middle aisle, tains. Two recumbent figures in stone of is a full-length portrait of the pedlar, the founders, John Oteswich and wife; his pack, staff, and dog-the same who tomb of Hugh Pemberton; some old gave Pedlar's Acre to the parish, on brasses, &c.; some old armorial bearcondition that the portraits of him and ings are retained in the chancel window. his dog be perpetually preserved in SAINT MARY-LE-Bow, Cheapside, painted glass in a window in the church. being the work of Sir C. Wren, should Bishops Tunstall and Thirleby, who not be noticed here, but for its fine old died state prisoners (temp. Eliz.) in the Norman crypt. The arches of the old adjoining palace, were buried there. church were used by Sir Christopher ST. LUKE'S, Chelsea. An ancient to support his superstructure. structure of brick and stone; the tower crypt being now used as a vault, is not is more modern than the other parts easily accessible to the public. Stow of the building. Here are several in- says, this was the first church built in teresting tablets and monuments. The the City on arches of stone (temp. most conspicuous is that of Sir Thomas William I.), hence called Le Bow; as More. The church is near the station Stratford Bridge, the first built on of the City steam-boats; hence easily arches, is called Stratford-le-Bow. The accessible to the London visitor. Court of Arches was formerly held in ST. MARGARET's, Westminster.-Al- this church; hence derives its name. though there are parts of this building See also Chapter VII. The decidedly old, yet it is not remarkable ST. MARY-LE-SAVOY, Strand, was for any architectural merit. It, how- the chapel, and is all that remains of the ever, contains, in the chancel over the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, in the altar, the finest stained glass window in Savoy. It is rather a plain but subLondon. The three middle compart-stantial Perpendicular building; on each ments represent the crucifixion, with an side are six pointed windows, in the Tudor angel wafting the soul of the good thief style. A window at the north end has to Paradise, and the devil, as a dragon, been filled up. The ceiling is richly carrying the soul of the wicked thief to panelled with quartrefoils, and has an a place of punishment. In the six upper elegant appearance. The church concompartments are angels holding the tains several notable monuments and cross, sponge, crown of thorns, the brasses, some very old. hammer, and the rod and nails; also ST. OLAVE'S, Hart Street, at the top representations of Arthur, son of Henry of Seething-lane, contains several inteVII.; Catherine of Arragon; a figure resting tablets and monuments; among of St. George, and St. Catherine. This the latter, one to the wife of Samuel window was a present from the magis- Pepys. Allusion is frequently made to trates of Dort, in Holland, to Henry the this church in Pepys' Diary. Seventh, and was intended by that king ST. PAUL'S (CRYPT AT). See Chap. for his chapel within the Abbey. Its ter V. ST. SAVIOUR'S, Southwark, (church Sunday mornings at eleven o'clock, and of the Priory of St. Mary Overies,) evenings at three o'clock, near London Bridge, is one of the finest specimens of Early English in London. The choir and Lady Chapel, which have been recently restored, are part of the old church of the priory. Here are several good monuments; one to Gower the poet (1402). WESTMINSTER ABBEY. See Chap. V. DIVISION II.-MISCELLANEOUS Having briefly spoken of the old churches most worthy of note, we now mention a few buildings of other deSTEPNEY CHURCH.--A large Gothic scriptions, perhaps of equal interest to structure of the early part of the 13th the antiquary. century, consisting of a chancel and BARTHOLOMEW CLOSE, Smithfield.— nave, and two aisles, separated by clus- At the entrance from West Smithfield tered columns and pointed arches. is an Early English arch, part of the TEMPLE CHURCH, Fleet-street.-old Priory of St. Bartholomew. In This most interesting building may this Close lived for a time John Milton, justly be said to unite with genuine an- the poet. Benjamin Franklin worked tiquity an architectural beauty of the here as a journeyman printer; here very highest order. It is within the also Le Sueur, the sculptor, modelled precincts of what is called "the Tem- his statue of Charles I., at Charingple," and was originally the church of cross. the Knights Templars. The round BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHOUT.— church at the west end of the choir is The house of Sir Paul Pindar, a mermore ancient than the choir itself; the chant of great eminence and tact, No. former, which is Norman in style, was 169, is worthy of a visit. It is now a built anno 1185; the latter is Early public-house, sign of the Paul Pindar's English, of date about 1240. The ef- Head. Some of the rooms are very anfect of recent restorations has been to tique, but the exterior of the building preserve in their original beauty both is generally most admired. choir and vestibule, but with increased CANONBURY TOWER, Islington.effect from the decorations. In the Built of brick, probably by Sir John choir the nave is divided from the aisles Spencer; is 58 feet high, and 17 feet by four stately marble columns on each square. It is all that remains of the side. The windows are uniform and manorial house rebuilt by Bolton, the elegant. The altar fittings very beauti- last prior of St. Bartholomew, His ful. The arabesque roof and tessellated rebus (the bolt-in-tun), some stuccoed pavement, thickly charged with heraldic ceilings of the sixteenth century, and bearings, add to the general effect of two antique oak chimney-pieces, may be the whole. The organ is fully described seen in two of the houses in Canonin another part of this work. The bury-place. round church, or vestibule, possssses CARPENTERS' HALL, London-wall. many architectural beauties, especially -There were four frescoes discovered the arcade formed by the arches of the here in 1845, all bearing allusion to the upper story intersecting each other. craft of carpenters. The first repreHere are two sepulchral groups of effi-sents God ordering Moses to build the gies, supposed to represent the Knights ark. The second, a group of figures Templars, they lay cross-legged, and with a regal personage enthroned, reare armed cap-à-pie in mail, with sur-sembling Henry VIII. It is intended coat and Norman shield. We com- to represent King Josias ordering the mend this church to the visitor, as one money collected in the temple to be deof the best sights the metropolis affords. livered to the carpenters for repairing Full cathedral service is performed on the building. The third exhibits Joseph |