narrators were standing. At about 12 o'clock the Lorchas were as far down as Silver Island, when they also ceased firing and fled. The Tae pings did not pursue them, but after setting fire to the temples on Silver Island, returned to Ching keang and prepared to land; seeing which, the narrators made off as hard as they could in the direction of Tan yang. They said that the "barbarians" in the Portuguese Lorchas fought really well, and, before their powder was exhausted, crippled and sank great numbers of the Tae ping vessels. This was the first intercourse of the new Chinese Christians with the Catholic Christians of the West.

The lorchas retired to a point twelve miles below Chin keang, where they were joined by the above-noticed Occidental vessels bought by Intendant Woo, and manned by English and Americans. When the Hermes passed up toward Nanking three weeks afterwards, the whole squadron took the opportunity to follow her to Chin keang and Kwa chow, where they cannonaded the Tae ping positions, and made prizes of five or six unarmed junks. That was the first intercourse of the new Chinese Christians with the Protestant Christians of the West.

Before describing the Hermes' visit to Nanking, I shall give, in the ensuing chapter, an account of the circumstances which led to it, particularly of an attempt made by me to reach the rebels by way of the Grand Canal, in the course of which I had opportunities of observing the state of the country in the interior of China, there where it is thought likely to become the scene of war, and to mark how the Imperial forces moved from one position to another. On the 7th April, the inhabitants of Shanghae were as stated seeking safety in the country from the dangers of the expected attack on that city, and even the Intendant's domestics, whose means of information were good, were deserting him from fear of the advancing rebels. On the 8th, a paper began to be handed about purporting to be a copy of a proclamation issued by Lo and Hwang, two

rebel leaders, in which threats were held out against the foreigners at Shanghae. I was at the time strongly inclined to believe this a fabrication of the Imperialists or others who wished to get up an inimical feeling between foreigners and the rebels. And after we had ascertained the Christianity of the Tae pings, I had no doubt that, whether fabricated or genuine, it was purposely played into our hands to prevent friendly communication between us. Throughout the period of his attempts to obtain our aid, Intendant Woo gave not the slightest hint of the peculiar religious feature of the rebellious movement, though his own mind must have been full of it, and though he was well aware we should consider it a circumstance of much weight. We were still, at the period I speak of, practically ignorant of it. We were, indeed, totally without reliable data to guide us as to the intentions of the rebels toward foreigners. Hence we were adopting measures to defend the settlement, so as to be prepared for every contingency. But the aspect of affairs being such, it seemed to me highly necessary that some direct communication should be opened with the rebel chiefs. Without suspecting what information it was that the mandarins were withholding, I saw clearly that they were under the influence of an unusually strong spirit of mystification and reticence; and that if the rebels were actually advancing on Shanghae, we ought to have some speech with them while there was at least a chance of modifying hostile prepossessions. My offer to go myself was accepted. My wish was rather to have proceeded by the Great River, which I had formerly ascended on exploring excursions-once for some fifty or sixty milesand on which I knew I could, if necessary, constrain the boatmen to take me right up to the walls of Chin keang. On the Grand Canal I had no power to enforce my wishes, inasmuch as the boatmen could leave me at any time they pleased by wading or swimming to the bank; and the panic was so great that I had no hope that money would induce any of them to take me within a day's journey of the rebels. But Sir G.

Bonham wished me to proceed by the Canal; and there was this to be said in favour of the latter route, that if the rebels were really advancing I could wait till they came up to me, though deserted by the boatmen; while by the Great River route I should, if they advanced by way of Soo chow, miss them altogether.

I accordingly started on the evening of the 9th April for Soo chow and the Grand Canal, in my own excursion and shooting boat.

CHAPTER XVI.

EXCURSION ON THE GRAND CANAL TO OBTAIN INFORMATION RESPECTING THE REBELS.

THE reader will understand from what has been said above of the internal navigation, of the boats, and of the physical disability of height, which rendered it nearly impossible for me to pass myself as a Chinese in broad daylight on shore; that it was necessary for me to have an agent with me, of somewhat higher station and greater information than a servant, to land and do much for me that I could not do for myself. The best man I knew at that period, I had (page 196) already despatched in the direction of the rebels. But having long felt the practical value of the Chinese political maxim that the requisite for the efficient despatch of business is able men, I was careful to keep at all times a list of the ablest I could get knowledge of, and whose circumstances were such that it would be in my power to command their services. It was in the then position of affairs not to be expected that any orderly living individual would be prepared, at short notice, to start on an expedition which combined several risks; but I sent into the city for a fellow-we will call him Fang— who as a native of Teen tsin spoke excellent mandarin, had considerable literary ability, great experience of the life of Yamuns, and, lastly, that reckless indifference to possible contingencies which is often seen in the confirmed opium smoker. As I expected, he followed my messenger out. His packing was easily done: he had only to stand up and shake himself-his worldly possessions consisting of the

clothes on his back. My body servant or valet, a native of Kwang tung, agreed to go at once; and the cook also consented, after some argument and banter on my part. So far from commanding the services of any, I was careful to enumerate the various risks they would incur, and then overcame reluctance by the offer of rewards. On the present occasion the cooking was a very secondary consideration; but my cook, besides speaking intelligible mandarin, was as a native of Keangsoo a master of the local patois; he might therefore be useful as an agent, and I could not have too many strings to my bow.

The following incident illustrates a feature of Chinese character, and may at the same time teach Occidentals by what procedure they may best get Chinese servants to run risks in their behalf. A few hours before starting, when in the bustle of preparation in my sitting-room, my Kwang tung servant came in, evidently somewhat bashful and at a loss how to express himself. At length he managed to stammer through a request that I would give him a note to some one of my friends, begging that the bundle he held under his arm (and which contained such valuables as he possessed) might be forwarded to his father at Canton, in case "our affairs were unfortunate, and we did not come back." This is one of the circumlocutions which the Chinese, who avoid the use of such words as "death," employ to express loss of life. I immediately replied, "I have no time to write a note-you see how busy I am, and" (with a wave of my hand round a room littered with books, papers, &c.) " that I am leaving all my own matters in their usual confusion. But look;" I added, holding up a sealed letter, "this I leave with a friend to be sent to my brother at Ningpo in case, as you call it, we do not come back again.' Now I have told him in such case to take care to have one hundred dollars paid over to your father in Canton, in consideration of your going with me. He will consequently get far more than the value of your traps. Make the best disposition of them you can