7. Thus is accomplished the crossing which, later, serves to separate the woof threads. The proper number of threads obtained, they are tied at various intervals, a strip of bark is passed each side of the cross at a-shown more distinctly at a', Fig. 5'-to keep the threads from uncrossing, and the loop at 2, shown in Fig. 2', is well wound to keep the threads of each series distinct. The pegs are then drawn, and the operator has a single bundle of threads with a loop at each end. The loop of each thread at 5 is then passed through the ōsha, so that the latter will be between the crossing a' and the longer portion of the threads. The yōdosini is next passed through the loop 5, and serves to keep the threads in position, as well as a straining stick by which the warp may be kept at proper tension. At a distance of four or five feet from the ōsha, the ādate is secured to the threads and passed through a looped string fastened to some firm object. By means of a string passing around the body, and secured to each end of the yōdosini, the operator, who sits upon the floor, can easily regulate the tension of the threads by bringing all strain upon the adate. The gamasa is placed within a few inches of the ōsha, but between it and the cross of the threads; its only use is to properly separate the upper and lower series of threads, to permit the action of the ǎhonishi. The bekofune occupies a position near the gămasa, about one-half way between it and the yōdosini. Small twine is then passed over it and looped under each warp thread of the lower series, thus forming a simple means. of bringing either series of threads to the top, and varying the cross of the warp to correspond with the movement of the ahonishi. The position of parts will be readily understood from an inspection of Plate 11.1

The size of the cloth is quite variable, since the Ainos seidom count and have no means of accurate measurement. Thus if in stretching the warp threads the operator obtains more than enough to fill the loom, the extra ones are dropped out and the cloth will have a maximum width of 13.5 inches. If, however, not enough threads were taken to fill the loom, no more are added. The usual length of the cloth is six and a-half times the 1 EXPLANATION OF PLATE III.-I. Gamasa. 2. Ösha. 3. Bekofune. Yodosini. 5. Adate. 6. Position of operator. a' Cross of A. Pattern for front skirt of coat. B. Pattern for collar.

Plate II. for cuff.

4.

threads a'

C. Pattern

length of the expanded arms, and as this latter will average five feet, we find the total length of cloth approximating thirty-two feet in round numbers.

After the thread has been prepared, such a piece of cloth can be made in from three to four days, according to the skill of the operator, who is always a woman.

The color of the finished fabric is always that of the bark from which it is made, though uniformity is rare, owing to discoloration of the threads during preparation. If made from Õhiyo, the color is usually brown, with slight inclination to red, while that made from the Akădamo is invariably of a bright tan color.

As an article of clothing, for which use alone it appears to be utilized, the Aino cloth has several good qualities. It is very coarse in texture, as would be expected from the nature of the material, but it possesses great strength and wears out slowly; while its meshes are so close, and the threads so compact, that it is completely proof against ordinary rains, on which account the Japanese make great use of it for rain coats.

The Ainos make yet another kind of cloth out of fiber obtained from a species of Urtica. This, however, is only made in small quantities, since its use is restricted to burial purposes.

The garments are made in the most simple manner, the breadths being cut without any bias. Nearly all are ornamented with some simple figure, either blue or white, though red and green are not unfrequently used. Plate III will show some of the most characteristic patterns, which were copied from the dress of a chief's wife, and are very good representations of the more elaborate forms.

In addition to the buskins the only garment worn is a coat reaching somewhat below the knees, and fastened at the waist by a girdle. Upon this one garment the women often lavish all their skill in decorating, and thus the coats of chiefs-more especially their wives and children-not. unfrequently make a great display of gaudy trimming. The ornamentation, however, often lacks greatly in symmetry, as can be seen by the figures.

ENGLISH BIRDS COMPARED WITH AMERICAN.

BY H. D. MINOT.

FROM April 22d to September 9, 1879, except for a fortnight

in Scotland, I was in England, passing through all but two of her forty counties, and in many of them staying long enough to study their natural history attentively. Unfortunately, however, there were so many other objects of absorbing interest, that I did not become so familiar with the birds as would have been pleasant, and I often was obliged to slight their most attractive invitations.

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To compare English birds with ours, I have no hesitation in saying that they are less abundant; but, on the other hand, in spite of extensive wild lands, their companionship is more readily obtained, and the naturalist need not seek for birds so often as he must here; for the respect and consideration shown them there, give some of them, at times, almost a social ease with man. They are not free, of course, from school-boys and human enemies of other kinds (especially are the song-birds persecuted by professional bird-catchers); but the public at large are more reasonable in their instincts and customs than the free and thoughtless American, who must fire his gun whenever he gets a chance, regardless of all true interests concerned. This I can illustrate from my journal and recollections. To the unforewarned there is a curious disappointment in traversing the great English forests," so called, where trees are an unimpressive or absent feature; but, for my disappointment in the "New Forest," I was compensated by my pleasure in Ringwood, a delightful little village of Hampshire, on one of the rivers Avon, near the South coast. There, on one of those rare and pale moonlight evenings, which in England last summer were almost legendary, as I stood on the village-bridge, looking over the broad meadows, I was surprised to find both moorhens and wild mallard nesting undisturbed, within not many rods, and making themselves quite public. The home-naturalist of the place told me that in former years a few of their eggs might have been taken, but that he believed they were never shot there in their breeding-season. Among a people notorious for their love of sport, this sensible respect for law and nature is of the highest value. From this single circumstance we might judge too favorably; but there is

other evidence of a better public spirit in some respects than we can boast; such evidence as the tameness in spring of the common partridge and of the ring dove, and the abundance of the latter after centuries of civilization.

These wild pigeons, though heavier than ours, have a more than correspondingly slower flight; and it is curious to observe how heavy the English atmosphere seems to British birds, and how general it makes this difference in speed. At least, I do not think that I was misled by his larger size into noting that the European swift was much less quick and dashing than his American cousin; and I am sure that the grouse which I was allowed to put up on the moors, could never test the sportsman's skill in rapidity of action so well as any of our game-birds proper. These moors in Derbyshire, by the way, were the only place in England where I met with mosquitoes, though later in the summer-season, while out doors, I was sometimes as much bothered by flies as in our own woods. There is, however, a comparative want both of cheerful and of annoying insect-life. I may here add of England that, though, to be sure, last summer's weather was peculiarly unfortunate, I generally found the walking bad, and the air neither exhilarating nor soothing. The equable temperature certainly gives ease to out-door life; but freedom from enervating heat was offset by subjection to depressing wet.

Though I wish to avoid the worst fault of a critic, that of fault-finding and depreciation, I believe I may justly say that as the birds of England are inferior to those of New England in variety, so are they, on the whole, in coloring and in song. Her kingfisher may be as tropical in brilliancy as our hummingbird; her thrushes, swallows and finches as pretty as any other of their tribes; but with the exquisite and delicate beauty of our woodwarblers, and with the splendor of our tanagers, orioles and starlings, she has almost nothing among her familiar friends to comparc. Then, among her song-birds, of whom I heard nearly all, she has none corresponding, as musicians, to our hermit thrush, house wren, water warbler, solitary vireo, song sparrow, or rosebreasted grosbeak; yet all these, and many kindred that I might associate with them here, are good singers. To all her song birds (that I have heard), on the contrary, except two or three, we have singers corresponding, and to all absolutely, I may say without prejudice, equals or superiors, as well as I can judge.