observant of their flight, and in a letter, written to the late Dr. J. B. Holder, expressed his astonishment that these birds could circle about, moving up and down, covering great distances without apparently vibrating the wings.

While the condors live upon carrion, they often attack young animals; hence the natives trained their dogs to dash out and bark as they approached.

The Indians caught them in an ingenious way: they surrounded a dead animal with a fence of sharp sticks, and when the condor became gorged with food, rushed in on horseback and shut the enclosure before the bird could escape. Another method witnessed by Darwin consisted in creeping up to where the birds roosted and dropping a noose over their heads while they were asleep.

In March, 1833, the party arrived at East Falkland Island, in Berkeley Sound, where wild-cattle hunting formed one of the exciting incidents. Many hard and fatiguing rides were taken, on one of which Darwin states that his horse fell no less than six times, and frequently all the animals ridden by the party were floundering in the mud. In Berkeley Sound Darwin found a curious geological feature, nothing less than a river of stones, the valley being made up of rocks thrown together in the wildest manner possible and apparently flowing down to the sea. The width of the stream varied from a few hundred feet to a mile, and was of unknown depth, water being distinctly heard trickling far below the surface. In one valley south of Berkeley Sound one of these stone rivers was seen, where for a quarter

Natives of Tierra del Fuego.

79

of a mile the observer crossed without stepping from the rocks, some of which were so large that protection from the rain was found beneath them. The native inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego were looked for with interest, and the first view of them was had at the Bay of Good Success, a group appearing on the shore waving their tattered garments at the voyagers. These were the popularly called giants, as the natives of the land were supposed to be much larger than any others, and are so to a certain extent. A boat was sent ashore and communication held with them. They were fine lusty fellows fully six feet in height, and giants when compared to the natives previously seen. They were of a dirty copper color, and, though the climate was rigorous, clothed in a simple guanaco skin thrown over the shoulders.

Darwin presented an old man with some slight gift, at which he patted the donor's breast, uttering a sound like that of calling chickens, then bared his breast for a return of what was considered a courtesy. Darwin noticed that they were skilful mimics, as every action of his, even a yawn, was repeated, and, more remarkable yet, they repeated the words and sentences spoken to them with exactness.

The visit to these people had a significance, as aboard the Beagle were several Fuegians, who had been taken to England on a previous trip to be educated and civilised,—a philanthropic act of Captain Fitz-Roy, who was now bringing them back with a missionary, who proposed to live with their people and undertake the work of elevating them to a

higher plane. The result was that the educated natives were robbed of all their property by their relatives, and when visited some years later were found to have lapsed again into savages.

At Beagle Inlet Darwin had an adventure with a glacier. Wishing to examine it the boat was hauled upon the beach, and the masses of ice watched as they fell away. Finally a large berg became detached and fell with a thundering crash, sending an immense wave in upon the beach. Darwin and party rushed for the boats to save them if possible, reaching them just as the wave came crashing in, knocking one of the men over and lifting their boat high in air, fortunately doing no damage, as they were over one hundred miles from the Beagle.

At Cape Gregory some fine types of the giant natives were seen, though Darwin says they appeared larger than they really were from their style of dress. They averaged six feet in height, some of the men being taller, and as Darwin describes them as being the tallest people he met on the entire voyage around the world, they may be considered the tribal giants of the human race.

In referring to them he says: "I believe, in this extreme part of South America, man exists in a lower state of improvement than in any part of the world. The South Sea Islanders of the two races inhabiting the Pacific are comparatively civilised. The Esquimau, in his subterranean hut, enjoys some of the comforts of life, and in his canoe, when fully equipped, manifests much skill. Some of the tribes of Southern Africa, prowling about in search