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Sept. 14. A booby (a variety of the pelicanus sula) was caught, which differs considerably from those of this species that we had seen and have mentioned before. It measured, from the point of the bill to the end of the tail, two feet eight inches. The bill was four inches in length, serrated half way, straight, but a little bent at the tip, and of a yellowish-grey colour. The eyes, which are bright with a very lighttinctured iris, being placed at the upper part of the bill, where it is quite destitute of plumage, gives this singular fowl an aspect so vacant as at first sight to justify its name; especially as the gape of the beak extends backwards beyond the sockets of the eyes. We were much struck with the utter simplicity of this bird which we had obtained, having an opportunity of observing its manners. It had received no injury that we could discover, except the destruction of one eye, which the shot had entered; it fell the instant it was struck, and was picked up by one of the boats without difficulty. As soon as it was placed on deck the creature seemed perfectly at home, and without fear, among strangers. Though it had so recently suffered the loss of an eye, and must have been suffering from the wound, it presently laid its head upon its back, between its wings, and went to sleep as if nothing had been amiss; nay, its slumbers were so sound, that though a person put his mouth to its ear, and bawled with all his might, it did not awake. After remaining with us all night, without any attempt to escape, in the morning it was placed upon a boat at the stern of the ship, whence it might have flown off at its pleasure; it chose, however, to stay there, and began to dress and oil its feathers with the most unaffected composure, as if it had been bred and trained up among us. When we approached too near, or touched it, though it would bite sharply in self-defence, it seemed to have no notion of retreating. Afterwards, when it was thrown overboard, it coolly washed itself for a few minutes, then took wing without difficulty, and steered its course exactly towards Dog Island, which lay not far distant, and where the booby family abound.

Sept. 16. (Lord's day.) Mr. Tyerman, in the forenoon, preached a sermon peculiarly addressed to young persons, of which class our crew is principally composed, from Matt. xix. 16, &c. "What good thing shall I do that I may inherit eternal life?" &c. Mr. Jones preached in the afternoon from Isa. xxvi. 24: "Thou wilt keep

It is now nearly four months since we saw land, or (with the exception of two) any other ship than our own-any other human beings than ourselves. All this time we have been in the centre of a circle of ocean, whose circumference may be a hundred miles, under a canopy of sky, diversified by day with ever-varying clouds, and beautiful by night with those resplendent stars and planets which are seen no where to so much advantage as from the plane of the great deep. Every instant the centre of our floating circle has been changing place, while the horizon-ring has moved with it in exact agreement, and at the same invariable distance. This idea, and the image connected with it, reminds us of Him, concerning whom the ancients said, "His centre is everywhere, his circumference no where." S. lat. 16° 59′. W. long. 133°. Thermometer 77°.

A magnificent meteor was seen this evening, about eleven o'clock. Its apparent diameter was equal to that of the moon, and during its appearance the whole horizon, sea, and sky, were lighted up like mid-day. It commenced its progress from the zenith, eastward, descending with great velocity, and being visible about fourteen seconds, when it exploded into ten or twelve fragments, each of which for an instant was as bright as the planet Venus, and immediately afterwards the whole vanished.

Sept. 18. Many small white birds having been fluttering about us this morning, we judged that we must be near some land; of which, indeed, there had been other usual indications yesterday. On account of the imperfections of all our charts, the captain deems it necessary to send a boat a-head, with a light on board, in the night time, about two miles in advance, to make signals if any reefs or islands should be perceived, these seas being crowded, in some parts, with sunken rocks and coral prominences. Like a star on the face of the dark ocean, this leading torch glides on before, and prepares our way, as an assurance of safety or a warning of danger.

Sept. 19. The first green island of the west saluted our view about sunrise; and how welcome it was to our hearts, how lovely to our eyes, they only can know who have endured the captivity of months on board a narrow ship, ever floating, yet never in appearance approximating the harbour, which thought can reach in a moment, and there linger and weary itself with looking, in imagination, from the shore, for the first glimpse of the expected vessel; as though the spirit could spring to its destination at once, and wait, for days and weeks together, the slow arrival of the body. Such romantic, yet perfectly natural feelings, they must have experienced, who, like us, have traversed thousands of leagues of watery waste, with their whole desires towards the haven whither they were bound, and yet, only knowing by lapse of time that the space between them and their

destination was diminishing in proportion. The sea-birds below, and the stars above, changing according to the latitudes which we crossed, had hitherto been the chief tokens and evidences to our sight of progress on our voyage over the monotonous abyss; one horizon of water being as undistinguishable from another as two hemispheres of sky. We gazed, therefore, with unsatisfied delight on this first nameless spot of earth on the face of the Pacific, which we had discovered, and on which (so little explored as yet are these regions) probably no eye of European had ever rested before, and perhaps no human eye which could see, in its existence and productions, the being and beneficence of the Creator and Upholder of all things. This island was about five miles in length, well wooded, and indicating the climate under which it flourished by the cocoa-nut and palm-trees with which it was adorned. The land was flat, and surrounded by a coral reef, on the south-east and north-west of which the waves broke tremendously, forbidding all approach. We could perceive many of the natives running along the white shore. They were nearly naked, and seemed to look very earnestly but hesitatingly towards us, whether they should put out in their canoes, of which there were several on the margin of the beach. One carried a long staff, probably a spear, which he often brandished in his hand. We find no distinct account of this island by former voyagers.

Sept. 20. Early this morning land was again announced from the mast-head, as being under our larboard-bow. It proved to be Resolution Island, discovered by Captain Cook, and named after his ship. It is small, and not ascertained to be inhabited. Doubtful Island, first seen by M. de Bougainville, next presented itself; it is of considerable extent: we observed smoke rising in various places from among the trees as we passed, at the distance of seven miles in the evening. Our hearts yearned over the benighted people of these sequestered tracts, unvisited by the dayspring from on high, while in low accents-lost amidst the murmur of the waves, except to that ear with which the spirit listens to the still soft wailings of humanity, wherever they are uttered-we seemed to hear the forlorn inhabitants saying, "No man careth for our souls!" In the name of the Society that sent us, in the name of the Lord, whom we serve, our hearts responded, "God be merciful unto you, and bless you, that his name may be known throughout your islands, and his saving health experienced by all the dwellers upon earth."

Sept. 21. Having lain to for the night (being now in the maze of the Dangerous Archipelago), at day-light land was again discovered; and as no name was found for it, nor its existence traced in the charts, we called it Tuscan Island, from our vessel. It lies S. lat. 17° 22'. W. long. 143 20'. In the afternoon, the captain sailed towards the shore in one of the boats, and hailed the natives, who were assembled to gaze at the strange spectacle of an European ship on their lone waters. Several of them came off in their little canoes, two of them ventured, though

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timidly, into his boat. He gave them some trifling matters, and they presented him with two large pearl oysters in return.

Sept. 22. To another undescribed island, which we passed to-day, we gave the name of Birnie, in honour of the worthy owner of that ship in which we were enjoying a free passage to the scene of our appointment.

Sept. 23. We passed the curious series of islets, linked together, on which captain Cook conferred the appropriate appellation of Chain Island. The young Tahitian (as we have been wont to suppose him), Robert, who came out with us, viewing this group with remarkable emotion, was asked the reason; when he informed us that his father and mother resided there; also that he himself was born there, though he had lived a long time in Tahiti.

Sept. 24. About one o'clock P.M., our captain discerned the loom of Tahiti over the larboard-bow. This was a dark black shade indicating its site; and as we were advancing at the rate of nine knots an hour, we hoped to anchor in Matavai Bay by sunset. But the wind, which had blown hard all day, increased so much in violence towards evening that we were reluctantly compelled to stand off from the land, and lay to for the night; the atmosphere, moreover, being very hazy, and frequent heavy showers descending.

Sept. 25. Tahiti, "the desire of our eyes," came upon us at sunrise, in all its grandeur and loveliness: more grand in the height of its mountains, and more lovely in the luxuriance of its valleys, than our imaginations had ever pictured it from the descriptions of former visitors and Missionaries. We had before us, in exquisitely undulated outline, the two peninsulas of which Tahiti consists; the whole rendered more striking by the shadowy obscurity which clouds of different hues and density cast over it. In a few hours, as we drew nearer, the beautiful region unveiled itself in all its enchanting variety of hills and plains, woods and waters: hills green up to their peaks, twice the height of Snowdon; plains spaciously opening from between the high lands towards the shore, where the dwellings of the population were thickly sprinkled, under the shade of scattered trees; woods of gigantic growth and tropical ramification, so different from British forest-scenery; and water bursting in brilliant cascades from the rocky eminences, then winding in rivulets through the valleys to the sea.

About eleven o'clock in the forenoon the first canoe came off towards us, for which the captain hove to. This small piece of excavated bread-fruit tree, balanced by an outrigger (that is, a piece of purau wood, lashed to the ends of two smaller pieces, which project from the sides of the vessel), amused us by the simplicity of its construction, and the dexterity with which it was managed by the two natives who occupied it; though, the sea being rather rough, we were inexperienced enough in their tactics to feel considerable apprehension for their safety. They proved to be a chief of a neigh

tatooed, and in all respects seem an inferior caste of savages. We could not find that they either profess any form of idolatry, or have any idea of a Supreme Being. They are now learning the Tahitian dialect, both to speak and to read it; they regularly attend public worship; and should any of them be made rightly acquainted with the gospel, they may become teachers of it to their countrymen when they shall be returned to their homes. As by the agency of storms population had been carried to remote islands of these seas in ages past, so, in the wisdom of Divine Providence, storms have been occasionally made instrumental in extending the knowledge of the gospel, by casting heathen barks upon coasts already evangelised, as well as by diverting European Missionaries or Gentile converts from their course on temporary voyages, and detaining them on barbarous shores, where, in the sequel, they have planted churches of Christ.

In the progress of our walk along the beach we came to the house of Upuparu, the chief who had engaged Mr. Tyerman to be his tayo, or friend. He is related to the royal family, and is, moreover, secretary to the Tahitian Missionary Society. When we entered, he and his wife, a young woman about seventeen years of age, and several of his attendants-the chiefs always having a number of such in their train -immediately seated themselves cross-legged on the floor. The house was about a hundred and twenty feet in length, having one side separated from the other, and partitioned into small bed-rooms for the use of the family. The remaining half formed an open court from end to end. Many of the neighbours having flocked in after us to gratify their curiosity by looking at the visitors, seated themselves without ceremony, as though they were at home. At our request, Upuparu's attendants fetched their New Testaments, out of which they read sundry portions, verse by verse, alternately, with fluency and emphasis; answering also with great readiness such questions arising out of the context as Mr. Nott put to them. We addressed a few sentences to them through the latter, as our interpreter, on the great love of God, manifested towards them in sending the gospel of his Son to their islands. A dish of popoi, a preparation of bananas, mixed with cocoa-nut water, something like pudding, was now handed to us, in clean cocoa-shells. Though a favourite kind of food here, we did not much relish it, having yet to learn to like the luxuries of the South Seas.

We afterwards prolonged our ramble nearly two miles towards the extremity of the district of Matavai, accompanied by groups of natives, who joined us from time to time, eager to have the pleasure of carrying our umbrellas, or doing any kind office in their power. Being thirsty, we requested some pape-haari, or cocoa-nut water, whereupon two or three of them ran to the nearest trees, which they climbed with surprising facility, by clasping the stems with their arms, and pressing their naked feet against the bark; and thus these tall and branchless stems

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were apparently ascended with almost as much ease as they walked on level ground. Presently several fine nuts were brought to us, the husks of which the men tore off with their teeth; then, having punctured one end of the shell, we were each presented with a draught of this most delicious beverage for appeasing thirst in a tropical climate. On our return we passed through a rich grove of orange, lime, tamarind, and other fruit-trees, planted five-and-twenty years ago by the first missionaries, and now in their prime. Here stood the house which they built after their landing, and occupied for some time, while they were sowing in tears the precious seed of the word, apparently on the barren and unimprovable rock alone: that structure was afterwards burnt during one of the frequent wars, and no other has been since reared on its site.

you!

All the remainder of the day Mr. Nott's dwelling was thronged by the natives, who came to see and welcome us with their national salutation-Ia-ora-na-every blessing be upon Without hesitation, and in the most affable manner, many came in and seated themselves cross-legged upon the floor, while others stood at the door, or peeped through the window at us. This, it seems, is the custom of the country, and considered no way obtrusive. We asked them to sing one of their hymns, which they did very harmoniously, to a tune familiar to our ears. When they had gratified their curiosity, and not less manifested their good will, they quietly went away, one by one, others in succession supplying their places till evening.

Most of the men wore no other dress than a piece of native cloth wound about the loins, and passed between the legs. Some had a loose mantle of the same thrown over their shoulders; and a few were more closely covered with an upper garment called a tibuta, which is a length of similar stuff, with a hole cut in the middle, through which the head appears, while the two ends hang down before and behind as low as the mid-leg, the sides being loose and open.

The women were clad much

in the same style with a girdle sufficiently broad to serve for a petticoat, a shawl-like cloth gracefully gathered round the shoulders, and in general a bonnet, made after the English fashion, of platted grass.

Mr. Nott, among other curiosities, showed us a manuscript copy of the translated Gospel of St. Luke, executed by King Pomare in a very neat, small hand.* It was from this copy that the first edition of that Evangelist was printed. Mr. Nott stated that he had been greatly aided by Pomare in making that version, the king being better acquainted with the Tahitian language, and its capabilities, than most of his subjects. This is probably an unparalleled instance, of a prince-and that no mean one, for he had the power of life and death, and

* This royal transcript of the Evangelist's work was presented to the British and Foreign Bible Society by Mr. Bennet, in the year 1830, after his return to England.

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his will was law in all cases throughout his dominions-devoting time and talents to the slow and painful labour of translating the sacred Scriptures, and copying out the work for the press with his own hand, that he might be the means of bestowing upon his people the greatest earthly boon which God has bestowed upon man. The Gospel of St. Luke was indeed the first volume ever printed in any language of the South Sea Islands, except a small spelling-book, necessary to prepare the way for it by teaching the natives to read their own tongue.

Sept. 27. We all sailed to Pape ete, Wilks's Harbour, in the Tuscan, where our property was landed, and lodged on the premises of Mr. Crook, at that station. This day we had the satisfaction to meet several of the Missionaries, with their partners and children, namely, Mr. and Mrs. Ellis, and their family, from Huahine; Mr. and Mrs. Williams, and their infant, from Raiatea; also Messrs. Bourne and Darling, from Bunaauia. A meeting being specially appointed for the purpose of receiving the deputation, and the persons accompanying us, we delivered our official credentials, and declared, each in a few words, our joy and gratitude on having, by the blessing of God, arrived safely at the scene of their labours, after our long voyage. The brethren then passed a resolution, recording their pleasure in beholding us as the representatives of the Society at home; also expressing their hope that beneficial effects, to the cause of the gospel here, would be the result of our embassy. They passed another resolution of cordial thanks to the directors, for the very seasonable and valuable supplies, &c., which had been sent out to them through us. We soon felt ourselves truly happy and at home among these pious and devoted servants of the Lord, who, possessing a remarkable diversity of gifts and dispositions, appear to us well qualified to promote the cause of the gospel in this new and interesting field.

Mr. and Mrs. Crook have nine children; yet the comfort of their habitation, the order in it in-doors, and the behaviour of every member of their family, reflect the highest credit on their prudence and economy. We have here had a good opportunity of remarking how much the skill and ingenuity of Missionaries are called into exercise, to supply the lack of many European conveniences and accommodations. But though we had perceived much admirable foresight in managing affairs during the day, we still wondered where and how we were all to be lodged for the night. Without any bustle, and seemingly with little difficulty on the part of Mrs. Crook, sufficiently commodious berths were found for every one of usthirty-two persons, young and old; and a peaceful night followed a gladsome day.

Sept. 28. We went on board the Tuscan again this morning, for some packages which we wished to be conveyed to Matavai. In setting out, we were delayed some time, while the natives who were to accompany us to the

latter place collected their provision of cocoanuts and bread-fruit for the Sabbath, as they were not to return hither till Monday. This (our Friday) was their Saturday, and it is the universal practice of all the Christian natives of these islands to prepare their Sunday's food on the last day of the week Not a fire is lighted, neither flesh nor fruit is baked, not a tree is climbed, nor a canoe seen on the water, nor a journey by land performed, on God's holy day; religion-religion alone-is the business and delight of these simple-minded people on the Sabbath.

The men having laid in their stores, we proceeded, in Mr. Ellis's boat, on our little cruise along the coast. Where we could see the bottom of the water, the ground was covered with the most beautiful corals, of different colours, and singularly diversified forms; sometimes rising so near to the surface that our keel grazed upon their crests; then again we sailed over depths unfathomable to the eye. Towards evening we landed safely at Mr. Nott's, in Matavai Bay.

Sept. 30. On Friday night we retired to rest, but waked not till Sunday morning, though: the interval allowed for sleep had not been longer than usual! This was the consequence of a miscalculation by Captain James Wilson, and the first Missionaries who settled here. Coming from the east, and keeping up the reckoning with which they set out, they gained a day, instead of dropping one, not bearing in mind that as London comes under the meridian ten hours earlier than Tahiti, which is 150o of longitude to the west, the day, at the latter place, is proportionably later. Some inconvenience has been suffered from this mistake, since the intercourse with Europeans has become more frequent than formerly here; but not so much as to induce the Missionaries to correct it, at the hazard of occasioning worse confusion in the minds of a people to whom it would probably be difficult to make the change intelligible.

This has been to us, at Matavai, a Sabbath of peculiar enjoyment and sanctity. At sunrise, we went to the chapel on the beach, near Mr. Nott's house-a neat structure, having bamboo walls, thatched with palm-leaves, furnished with benches made of bread-fruit-tree planks, and capable of holding about four hundred persons. It is now used only as a school and prayer-meeting house. On our arrival, we found the place filled with natives, of both sexes, and various ages. They were all kneeling, while one of them was offering up prayer in the most fervent and devout manner. Scarcely a head was lifted up when we entered, and stepped as softly as might be to a place near the person who was officiating at the time. When he had finished his address to the Deity, he gave out a hymn, which was sung with much animation by the people. He then read a portion of St. John's Gospel, many of those who were present producing their Testaments, and following his voice with their eyes on the words of the book. Another prayer was then offered