MAGNIFICENT ENTERTAINMENT-A CHINESE BRIDE. on foot and half on wing, till they reach a board laid upon the water, along which they waddle, as orderly as soldiers of the line, into the boat. They are kept for their eggs, and to supply the Canton market. Another boat attracted our attention-a small, low one, painted white; about which the fishes, being frightened by the agitation of the waters, and not understanding trap, or probably not distinguishing the snare by reason of its light colouring, leap into it, and are thus caught in considerable numbers. Nov. 26. In company with several gentlemen of the factory, we dined with Houqua, an eminent Hong merchant, at his house on the other side of the water. He lives in Chinese magnificence, and the entertainment was of the most sumptuous kind. The whole house and premises were brilliantly illuminated with lamps. The decorations of the rooms, and the style of the furniture, were splendid and curious, but absolutely undescribable otherwise than in the general terms-that everything was according to the perfection of Chinese taste. The dinner, which lasted nearly four hours, consisted of between thirty and forty courses, including all the luxuries of the clime and the season, served upon China table-ware of the richest patterns. To attempt a description here would be hopeless, for everything was so thoroughly national, that to be understood would require more knowledge of the manners of this singular people than many of our countrymen possess, and certainly much more than we could have learned without seeing, hearing, and tasting for ourselves. Before each guest was placed a pair of chop-sticks and a silver spoon, with a plate resembling a saucer, and an embossed silver cup to serve for a wine-glass. The first course consisted of various sweetmeats, to which every one helped himself from the dishes which were placed down the middle of the table. Presently the wine (prepared from rice, and not unpleasant to the taste) was poured warm from a silver vessel like a teapot into the wine-cups before us. In pledging healths this cup is held between both hands; the parties then, exchanging courteous looks and bows, drink it off, and each turns the inside of the cup towards the other, to show that the whole has been fairly drunk, it being deemed a great incivility to leave any liquor at the bottom. More substantial provisions, in basins and tureens, were next set upon the table, every one choosing for himself from the nameless and bewildering diversity of soups and made dishes, composed of fish, beef, mutton, fowls, ducks, geese, quails, pigeons, pigeons' eggs, turtle, &c. &c., all in a stewed form, for the most part very palatable, and not pungently seasoned. A salt-cellar, and a saucer of soy, before each person, enabled him to heighten the flavour of the food to his own taste. Towards the conclusion, besides a second course of sweetmeats, basins of boiled rice, quite dry, were set before all the company, with cups of tea; the tea, as usual, being prepared in each cup, with hot water poured upon the leaves, and without either cream or sugar. The cloth was then removed, and the table covered with 219 a profusion of the most delicious fruits. These were accompanied by Madeira wine, which was drunk, like every other beverage here, out of cups of the most delicate and exquisitely beautiful porcelain. out. The greatest rarity, however, after this feast, was the sight of a Chinese bride. The son of our host having been married a few days before, we were honoured (according to the usage of the country during the honey-moon) with permission to look at his wife, as she stood at the door of her apartment, while we were passing The lady was surrounded by several old women, who held tapers and lamps above and about her, that we might have a more complete view of her figure and attire. She was a young person (perhaps seventeen years of age), of middle stature, with very agreeable features and a light complexion, though she seemed to us to have used paint. She wore a scarlet robe, superbly trimmed with gold, which completely covered her from the shoulders to the ground. The sleeves were very full, and along the bottom ran a beautiful fringe of small bells. Her headdress sparkled with jewels, and was most elegantly beaded with rows of pearls, encircling it it like a coronet; from the front of which a brilliant angular ornament hung over her forehead and between her eyebrows. She stood in a modest and graceful attitude, having her eyes fixed on the floor, though she occasionally raised them, with a glance of timid curiosity, towards the spectators. Her hands, joined together, but folded in her robe, she lifted several times towards her face, and then lowered them very slowly. Her attendants, presuming that the guests would be gratified with a peep at that consummation of Chinese beauty, the lady's feet, raised the hem of the mantle from hers for a moment or two. They were of the most diminutive kind, and reduced to a mere point at the toe. Her shoes, like the rest of her bridal apparel, were scarlet, embroidered with gold. In justice to the poor creature, during this torturing exhibition (as we imagine it must have been to her), her demeanour was natural and becoming; and once or twice something like half a smile, for an instant, showed that she was not entirely unconscious of the admiration which her appearance excited, nor much dipleased by it. CHAPTER XLII. Another Hong Merchant's Hospitality-Dancing-Taking leave of a Friend-Marriage Procession-Smugglers of Opium-Christmas Day-Deputation return to Singapore-Clanship and Inhumanity of the Chinese-Deputation proceed to Malacca-Description of that Town -Extraordinary Tree-Pepper-plantations-Schools in Malacca-Chinese Fopperies-Proficiency of Native Scholars-Foundation of a Chapel laid-Tomb of Dr. Milne-Process of Extracting Toddy-Landcrabs, Frogs, and Alligators-Arrival at Pinang-Sabbath ExercisesFantastic Marriage Procession-Popish Mission College -Singular Paintings-A [deposed King-The Great Tree-Monkeys and Birds-Sensitive Plant-Dress and Habitations of the Malays-Personal Habits-Musical Cricket-Ingenious Spider. 1825. Nov. 28. We dined with Chinqua, another Hong merchant. All the English gentlemen 220 DANCING-CLANSHIP AND INHUMANITY OF THE CHINESE. out of twelve, ten were smugglers of opium; which being contraband, the left-handed traders in it have lately been so discreet in choosing lucky days for sailing, as well as for landing their cargoes, that of this drug, in spite of "the preventive service," quantities to the value of between nine and ten millions of dollars have been imported within twelve months. Dec. 24. After a favourable voyage we reached Singapore, and landed to spend Christmas. at Canton, with most of the captains and principal officers of the ships at Whampoa, had been invited, so that the company amounted to nearly a hundred persons. The feast was more than all that the heart of a Chinese could desire, for it was in the English style, and therefore the best that he could offer to his outlandish guests. A sing-song, or drama, had been prepared in front of the dinner-table, and a distinguished company of actors, from Nanquin, performed what to us was an unintelligible medley of dia- Dec. 25. Mr. Tyerman preached from Luke logues, songs, feats of strength, tumbling, and ii. 10, 11, on the birth of our Saviour, to about other muscular exercises, accompanied by the in- thirty Europeans, merchants and military. Not to cessant din of jarring, jingling, and discordant one in a million of the uncounted population of music, which required Chinese ears to relish, China, further India, and the beautiful islands of and which ours could with difficulty endure. the most magnificent archipelago in the world, We retired at nine o'clock in the evening, but have the "good tidings of great joy, which shall the play and the feast were expected to con- be unto all people," been declared with any tinue till two or three the next morning. It is more effect than the whistling of the wind, or singular that the Chinese have nothing among the gurgling of the water, at the moment, prothem that resembles dancing, ancient, and nearly duced on beings who have ears, but not to hear universal, as this practice is among other nations, the things that belong to their peace. Of by far savage and civilized. One reason may be the the greater bulk it must be confessed, in plain jealous separation of the sexes, and the privacy truth, that they have never yet had any better in which the women are kept. Perhaps the opportunity of hearing "that Christ Jesus came outrageous fashion of maiming the female foot into the world to save sinners" than their dead may have been an invention of the men to in- ancestors in their graves, or the unborn of a capacitate their wives and daughters for this century to come. Yet the false prophet has amusement. We are told that there is not even kindreds, and tribes, and peoples, and tongues, a word in the language of this people which throughout the east, the willing and resolute technically signifies dancing. dupes of his imposture. It is surprising what multitudes of devotees make the pilgrimage to Mecca from the remotest regions beyond the Ganges. Not less than eight hundred of these are said to pass annually by Singapore, in Arabian vessels. They are represented to be proud, supercilious, and infatuated beyond measure with the notion of personal merit in undertaking this achievement, and acquired sanctity when they have performed it. Dec. 4. Being prepared for our departure, we took leave of Sir James Urmston, the governor, from whom we have experienced many acts of kindness, and the gentlemen of the English factory, to whom we also acknowledge ourselves to have been greatly indebted during our stay here, especially Mr. Majoribanks, Dr. Pearson, Mr. Toon, Mr. Plowden, and others, whom, if we name them not, we yet remember with gratitude and esteem. Dec. 5. We went down the river to the ship which is to convey us to Singapore (the James Scott); but as she was not to sail till to-morrow, we accompanied the first officer and Dr. Barnes several miles up one of the lateral creeks. The sugar-cane was growing in great luxuriance on either side of the river. This being what the Chinese call "a lucky day," we saw, alongshore, in the course of our cruise from Canton to Whampoa, four marriage processions, with large lanterns, bands of barbarian music, and gorgeously-decorated sedans for the bridegrooms and their brides. The "lucky days" are specially marked in the almanacs of China, like the red-letter ones in ours; and this cautious people never venture upon any important engagement without having such earnest of success as these will afford. Matrimony, of course, must be formed under the best auspices; and he would be a bold man who durst contract it in the face of an unlucky day. The musicians in the several processions were all dressed in scarlet, which is the colour for rejoicing, as white is for mourning. On our subsequent way to the island of Lintin we passed many merchant and other ships, which we mention for the purpose of stating that among these, at one station, we were assured that, The Chinese here are of different clans, or tribes, of which the members attach themselves to their own respectively, and are bound by oath to aid and promote each other's prosperity. This they may do as long as all goes well with them, but certain it is that, in many instances, they treat their nearest relatives with inhuman neglect, and even cruelty, when they become infirm and burthensome to them. We have heard of cases in which families, deeming a sick person incurable, have not only left him to perish, but hastened his demise by stupifying poison, when they have carried him out of doors, and laid him down on the ground to die. We saw two fellows dragging a poor, emaciated old man along, by the legs and shoulders, in the most brutal manner, and then throw him into a boat, like a powerless piece of lumber, to be carried to another place out of the way. While the Missionary-house here was building, one of the workmen experienced a stroke of the sun (coup de soleil), and fell down in the midst of his fellow-labourers. They looked on for a moment, laughed, and said, "There will be one less to eat rice!" He expired within two days. Jan. 1, 1826. Having shipped our luggage on board the Alexander, Captain Armstrong, DEPUTATION PROCEED TO MALACCA-SCHOOLS IN MALACCA. we embarked for Malacca. The ship had lost her two last captains by death in the course of a few months; the first on her voyage from Singapore to Batavia, and the second on her return from Batavia to Singapore, two or three weeks ago; both in the Straits of Banda, and very near to the same place. The command therefore devolved upon the second officer, now Captain Armstrong, twenty-one years of age. He showed us in the log-book of the ship the following remarkable instance of the superstition of seamen. When the late captain lay dead, some Portuguese sailors were appointed to watch the corpse by night. A black cat happening to be on board, they all armed themselves with handspikes, to defend their charge against the "foul fiend," saying that if she should walk over the coffin between sunset and sunrise, the body would immediately rise up, when no power on earth could ever make it lie down again. They likewise placed a glass of brandy and water in the cabin where the captain had breathed his last, shrewdly observing, that as the deceased had always loved that kind of grog, perhaps his spirit might be hovering about, tormented with thirst, and if so, it would certainly be glad of a draught of its favourite beverage. It would seem to be much easier for the mass of mankind, even among those who are called Christians, to believe anything, rather than the truth, respecting "an hereafter." Jan. 15. Without any extraordinary adventure on our voyage along the peninsula, we reached Malacca, and immediately on landing were welcomed by Messrs. Humphries and 221 Collie, who conducted us to the College House. This town which has been in the hands of the English since April, 1825, contains about thirtyfive thousand inhabitants- Chinese, Malays, Portuguese, and a few English. It is a poor place, extending along the shore; the houses towards the centre are pretty compactly built together, but those at the extremities mean and straggling; the old church-tower (a ruin) and the lighthouse (built on the site of a dilapidated Portuguese chapel) are the most conspicuous objects, and the Missionary College is the best building. The vicinity is marked by ranges of low hills, with one conspicuous eminence, Mount Mora. All these as far as the eye can distinguish are covered with wood. Jan. 18. On an inland excursion, with Mr. Humphries, to distribute religious tracts among the Chinese, we had an opportunity of seeing some extensive pepper-plantations, which are cultivated entirely by these industrious people. The plants, in rich luxuriance, support themselves by the boles of trees, or against posts fixed in the ground, up which they are trained. They grow to the height of seven or eight feet, much like hops, throwing out, in profusion, their clusters of green and unripe fruit. Indeed, the latter is gathered green, and, when dried in the sun, becomes what is called black pepper. On some of the bunches are found berries which are covered with a thin red rind. These are kept separate, and, this coloured coating being carefully rubbed off, the kernel is white pepper. tenth part of the produce of these grounds is paid by the owner for rent. A Jan. 19. Mr. Collie conducted us through the schools, in Malacca, for Chinese children, under the care of the Missionaries. In these, and a few smaller ones in the country, they compute about two hundred and forty scholars, besides twenty-six who belong to the college. These attend from six o'clock in the morning till eight in the evening, including proper intervals for meals. They all sleep at home with their families. In the schools which we visited, the boys were learning to read, and to get by heart cate chisms and other religious lessons. A few of their countrymen's books are used for particular purposes, but none which contain anything contrary to the gospel. Their teachers are Chinese ; yet, in none of the rooms, excepting one, did we perceive any trace of idolatry. The nails, which we observed growing on three of the fingers of one of the schoolmasters, were of surprising length, the largest being not less than six inches. They were all considerably curved, like talons. We offered the man a 222 PROFICIENCY OF NATIVE SCHOLARS-SABBATH AT PINANG. dollar a-piece for these loathsome excrescences, but he was too proud of ornaments so precious in his own sight to part with them for twenty times their weight in silver. This is one of the finical and foppish Chinese fashions, to show that the persons thus disfigured do not live by a menial occupation, but rank as gentlefolks. We have been assured that women's feet are maimed for the sake of the same vanity, as none but ladies can afford to lose what Providence has made indispensably necessary for the use of those who are compelled to labour for their subsistence. Jan. 22. (Lord's day.) Mr. Tyerman, on the invitation of Mr. Humphries, who acts as chaplain here, preached in the old Dutch chapel, before a congregation of about seventy people, English, Dutch, Chinese, and Malays. In the afternoon a hundred and twelve Chinese scholars were catechised, in the lecture-room at the college. They answered questions, and repeated lessons, with mechanical accuracy. Some of these lads could recite the contents of a moderate-sized volume, without mistaking a single character-no small achievement in Chinese literature. In the evening several of them were exercised in psalm and hymn singing, in their own tongue; when their performances were quite as well as could have been expected. To eight of the boys who understood English pretty well we delivered a few words of suitable advice and encouragement. All the children in these schools are half-castes; the fathers being Chinese, and the mothers Malays. They generally speak their mother tongue-Malayan; but in the college they are required to employ the Chinese only. Several attempts have been made to open schools here for girls, among the Malays; but these have hitherto been ineffective, the parents insisting that the Koran, and sundry books of their own, to the exclusion of all others, should be used-terms to which no Christian teachers could ever agree without themselves becoming renegades. Jan. 28. At the request of the Missionaries, we laid the foundation-stone of a chapel (there being none at present), for the benefit of the Chinese and the Malays. Most of our countrymen at Malacca attended the ceremony, together with a great concourse of the mixed native population. Mr. Tyerman, in English,-Mr Humphries, in Malay,-Mr. Collie, in Chinese, -severally addressed the audience on the purposes of the intended building. Some of the Mahommedan Malays expressed much displeasure at the idea that they should be thought to need the instructions of British Missionaries; while, on the other hand, the idolatrous Chinese were not a little chagrined that a Christian church should be erected just opposite to their principal temple. We trust that this very cause of offence will ultimately be the means of grace to both. Jan. 30. In the Portuguese burying-ground we saw the tomb of the Society's late excellent Missionary, Dr. Milne. It is a plain oblong sepulchral structure, arched and elevated about four feet above the ground. On the headstone are inscriptions relating to the death of his wife, his child, and himself. All Missionaries who die on this station will be entitled to interment in the same humble mansion of mortality. Feb. 4. We were shown the process of extracting toddy from the cocoa-nut tree. Just as the young nuts are beginning to be formed, they are cut off from the stalks on which they grow, and a bamboo, that holds about half a gallon, is attached to the wounded part, so as to receive the sap which flows from it, and which would otherwise have nourished the fruit. This vessel is emptied twice every day, before sunrise and after sunset. One of these stems will yield as much as a quart in twenty-four hours. The liquor must be drunk immediately, or it will soon ferment and turn sour. In taste and colour it much resembles milk and water; sweet, but slightly acid. Arrack, an intoxicating spirit, is distilled from it. The fresh toddy is hawked about in the streets, morning and evening. Land-crabs abound here, in the low grounds, where they burrow in the earth, and throw up hillocks of such bulk that one of them would fill the body of a cart. There is a frog which is found both in fresh and salt water. It is long-bodied, like a lizard, having very prominent eyes. It runs over the surface with surprising celerity. Alligators are numerous in the rivers, and in the sea at their confluence. They are not very audacious, but will generally make their escape at the approach of a man; yet they are prompt enough to carry off any one whom they catch at his ease, leaning on the edge of his canoe, with the gunnel near the water. Feb. 9. We came to anchor this evening in the harbour of Pinang, having left Malacca on the 6th in the barque Malvina, Captain Howard. George Town, the metropolis of the island (or rather the small group known by the general name of Pinang, or Prince of Wales's Island, near the main land of the Malay peninsula), stands upon at least a square mile of ground, and is well laid out in streets at right angles. There is an air of superiority about it-an English character, which we have not seen before in the east. Many of the buildings are in good style. The residences of the governor and the principal officers are very delightful retreats, adjacent to the town, having high hills for their back ground, and being surrounded by gardens and plantations, of which nutmegs, full of fruit, cloves, and other spices, are the ornamental trees and shrubs. Malays and Chinese, as usual in this part of India, compose the bulk of the population; the former the drudges, the latter the mechanics, tradesmen, and farmers of the settlement. Feb. 12. Being Lord's day, Mr. Beighton, the Missionary here, met his Malay congregation. About seventy persons of both sexes were present, one half of whom were adults, the rest children under religious instruction. The service was principally catechetical; prayer was offered, hymns were sung, and certain portions of Scripture expounded. We met a Malay marriage procession. The bride, a girl apparently not more than nine |