May 19. Several men came to our door to exhibit dancing serpents. Some of these were six or seven feet long. Each was coiled up in a separate basket, out of which they were dragged and thrown upon the ground; their keepers singing to them certain drawling airs, accompanied by strokes upon a small drum, which regulated the motions of the serpents. These raised themselves to the height of two feet, flattening their breasts, and turning their heads to bite their keepers, which they were allowed to do occasionally, so as even to draw blood; but they are innoxious, their poisonous fangs having been extracted. We have been told of a gentleman, a fine performer on the violin, who, living at Chinsurah, was obliged to lay aside his instrument, as the lively sounds so charmed the serpents in the neighbourhood that his house could not be kept free from them.

May 20. Visiting a rich rajah, who lives about five miles from the city, his Highness ordered two of his elephants to be accoutred, that we might have the gratification of riding upon them. The seat was a scarlet pad, fastened on the animal's back by means of a crupper and girths round the body; an ornament of silver also was put round the face and over the upper part of the trunk. The command being given, the elephant crouched down, stretching his hinder legs backward, so as to bring his belly nearly to the ground, and then kneeling down on his fore ones.

After an

A short ladder was placed against his flank, which the rider mounted, and took his seat on the pad. The driver, then bestriding the elephant's neck, immediately behind his enormous ears, holds in his hand an iron instrument, about a foot in length, with several hooks along the side; the one end being blunt and the other pointed. With the latter he strikes upon the skull, to quicken the creature's pace. This seems cruelty, but is the readiest way of reaching sensibilities not very accessible. Ours, however, needed no such barbarous excitement, but were guided this way or that, and went slower or faster, by a gentle word or motion of their drivers. The gait of the elephant is a long step, which occasions an unpleasant rocking to the unpractised rider at first, but he soon contrives to accommodate himself to it. amusing ride we dismounted, each from his noble beast, as we had ascended, by means of a ladder; at parting, giving him a salaam, or bow of acknowledgment for his good services, which he courteously returned by raising his trunk above his head. These tractable creatures are sent out regularly to collect their own provender in the neighbouring jungles. This consists principally of the branches of trees, which they rend off with their trunks, and pile upon their backs in great ricks, so aptly laid together and so nicely poised, that their attendants have only to fling a rope across and fasten it under their bellies, when the load is perfectly secure, and they return home with it. The food thus gathered is given to them as they require it, and when exhausted they are despatched for

more.

May 24. At the famous temple of the goddess

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Kali we witnessed idolatry in perfection. The building, which appears to be very ancient, stands near the river, in the midst of a village of miserable thatched cabins. The face of the great image (Kali) is black, having three red eyes, and a golden tongue a foot and a half long, of which the upper part is smeared with blood. The lips, eyebrows, and ears are of gold. Rich ornaments, and wreathes of crimson flowers, adorn the head. In one of her four golden arms this female fiend brandishes a scymetar, and in another holds, by a silver chain, a head of gold, as though it had been just smitten off. The idol is a bust, raised upon a stone pedestal, and the height of the whole may be eight feet. Many Brahmins, presenting flowers, performing puerile ceremonies, or muttering prayers, were seated cross-legged before the shrine; and on the floor were strewn many idols of black stone -all ugly, and not a few utterly detestable to look upon. Several men come in, and prostrated themselves, full length, before the horrid figure; others stretched their hands imploringly towards it, and struck their foreheads repeatedly against the stones of the pavement. In the place of sacrifice two posts were driven into the ground, forked at the tops. To one of these was tied a kid, with a garland of red flowers about its head, which had previously been dipped in the waters of the Ganges. The unconscious victim was waiting for its death-wound at the appointed hour, which being too late for our convenience, we did not wait to see the rite performed. The animal's head, whether kid, or sheep, or bullock, must be severed at a blow; miscarriage indicating ill-luck to the offerer. Multitudes of worshippers are on the road, to and fro, all day long; so great is Kali of the Hindoos-an incarnation of Sheva the

Destroyer. Human sacrifices are confidently affirmed to be offered up occasionally here, but

in secret.

CHAPTER XLIV.

Sailing up the Hooghly-Buffaloes crossing the RiverMilkmen on the Ganges-Evening Sights and Sounds -Strong Current-River-scenery-Shocking Spectacle -Burning of a Hindoo Corpse-A Yogee or Hindoo Saint-A Funeral by Water-Benares-AllahabadVoluntary Drownings Baboon-worship-Subterranean Temple-Barbers and Bathers-Superb Mahommedan Procession-Privileged Monkeys-Native Termagants -Fashions at Benares.

JUNE 8.-Finding that it would not be expedient to attempt the journey to Benares by land, we engaged a pinnace, about fifty feet in length; a flat-bottomed vessel, brig-rigged, and containing all sufficient means of accommodation for an inland voyage. The crew consists of eighteen men and boys, besides a cook and consumer,—that is, a person to go on shore and purchase such necessaries as might be wanted by the way. Accordingly, we embarked this day, and proceeded up the Hooghly, the most sacred branch of the Ganges, with wind and tide in our favour.

The daily incidents of this leisurely navigation, which was not completed till the 18th of July, though interesting to ourselves, were of too mo

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notonous a description to be detailed in this place. We came to anchor every evening, and sailed again the next morning-occasionally went on shore-and suffered some inconveniences, as might be expected, from weariness and confinement; but, on the whole, as hitherto, through all our journeyings, we experienced the presence, protection, and blessing of God. Our principal entertainment from without was in viewing and contrasting the scenery and aspect of the vast regions which we thus quietly traversed. The variety in these was abundantly gratifying to the eye; while the multitude of human beings, their dwellings, temples, persons, dress, manners, and occupations, alternately furnished subjects of painful and pleasing contemplation, as they glided in continual succession, like the images of a magic lantern, before us.

A few circumstances, by the way, may be noticed. At Terriagully there is a pass which, in former times, was of great military importance, and was often contested between the two provinces of Bengal and Bahar. The Ganges here is about two miles in breadth. Some men were driving a large herd of buffaloes across the stream, and they had to swim the principal part of the distance. It was curious to see the animals, with their muzzles and horns above the surface, while the drovers made a hideous outcry, swimming behind them, and splashing the water to urge them forward. Occasionally they plunged among the cattle, striking them with bamboos, forcing up their heads, or laying hold of their tails, to support them in the current. Some of the calves were taken over in a boat. One poor beast, whose calf was among these, appeared in most pitiable distress. For a while she would swim a little onward, then suddenly turn round, and, with sad lowing and moaning, come to the boat's side, to gaze at her young one, till at length, losing all patience, she made a resolute effort to get into the vessel, but was beaten off again. Distraction was in her looks, and every motion exhibited intensity of affection. When all were safely landed on the other side, no small joy was discovered by the whole herd gamboling and bellowing about the beach for very transport. The drovers, whom we have repeatedly seen conducting such transits of buffaloes, seem to have no fear of the alligators that infest the river, but wade or swim about wherever they like, or as necessity requires.

The doodh wallas, or milkmen, who have to cross the Ganges to milk their cows, or to sell their commodity, are equally regardless of these formidable-looking reptiles. The vessel which they use is a large bottle made of thick leather, which, when empty, or rather when filled with air, is very buoyant. This, being fastened to a piece of light wood, makes a powerful float, on which the man rests, and easily ferries it over the river by the action of his hands and feet. On the contrary, when the bottle is full of milk, though it sinks deeper in the water, yet, the contents being specifically lighter, his raft, including the attachment of

timber or bamboo, is sufficient to bear him through the current, paddled, as before, by his hands and feet.

Among the numberless temples which, wherever we sailed, marked the landscape on the right hand and on the left, we observed one which the roots of a banyan-tree had so entirely overgrown, that the walls, both within and without, were imbedded in the wood. The edifice was about eight feet square, and, being open at the top, there was placed in it the odious symbol most worshipped throughout India (the lingu); and on this "abomination" a votive wreath of flowers had recently been hung, before our arrival.

Anchoring in a narrow creek, near the town of Colgong, and the evening being very calm, numbers of the natives of both sexes came down to bathe in the river, which they did with the utmost decorum. Many women also were seen returning with their water-pots on their heads; some carrying their infants in their arms, and others astride of the hip, as in the South Sea Islands. A drum, trumpet, and human voice singing, in the distance, were sounds so familiar as to remind us at once of the land of our nativity, which was brought, as it were, before our eyes, by the appearance of a flag flying on the top of a long bamboo. Towards this we hastened, and found it to be hoisted in the market-place of the little town, consisting entirely of native houses, low and thatched, except one of European structure, deserted and in ruins. Nearly opposite were three monuments, which, on examination, we found to have been erected in memory of some Englishmen. Meanwhile, as night came on, starlight and tranquil above-from layers of far-distant clouds, frequent flashes of lightning, unaccompanied by thunder, played in ziz-zag coruscations, illumining and darkening the horizon by turns. Millions of fire-flies covered the ground, and glittered to and fro through the air, as though all "the motes that people the sunbeams" by day were now lighted up under the covering of gloom. Our ears were entertained with the chirping of crickets, and the buzz, the hum, and the drone of a great variety of other insects. This harmony, however, was soon interrupted by the dismal yells and screams of innumerable jackalls and wolves, sallying out of the jungles, prowling for prey, alive or dead, about the streets of the town, or through the adjacent country, down to the banks of the river, and sometimes close to our vessel. These lugubrious howlings were sent forth by fits and starts, lasting about ten minutes at a time; then, for a little while, all might be still; but no sooner did one of the horde of night-rovers give mouth than he was answered by a thousand horrid throats, rising in clamour to the utmost pitch, then gradually sinking away, to be renewed, in like manner, a hundred times from nightfall to dawn.

over,

On the 29th of June we anchored near the Fakier's Rocks. Here is a conical hill, eighty feet high, the foot of which is washed by the Ganges, and on either side this eminence is

girt with monstrous crags, very hard and resembling granite. Not far thence, and standing in the channel of the river, is another stupendous upright rock. Here the wind, blowing in the direction of the stream, brought down so strong a current that it was impossible to proceed against it. Several vessels were at anchor, having been detained for nearly a week by this adverse circumstance. Two days ago three Hindoo keels, laden with cotton, got into this current, and were wrecked; the lives of the crews and the cargoes being with difficulty saved. On the day of our arrival we had the affliction of seeing two others lost in the same way. The first of these was hurried down the stream with uncontrollable violence, and struck upon the rocks, when the poor creatures on board uttered a dreadful shriek, thinking all was then over; but, before their little bark filled with water, they had time to take to their boat, and to throw a few articles of clothing into it as they leaped from the sinking deck. Within two hours of this disaster, another vessel, loaded with goods belonging to the East India Company, was caught in the same irresistible vortex, and dashed on the same rocks; but, being jammed into a crevice, with her stern under water, the crew had opportunity to effect their escape.

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baffle all description. The height we could not ascertain. Hindoo superstition and ingenuity have made the most of this singular pile, and have constructed upon its summit a handsome temple, of which the conical roof, conspicuous from afar, terminates in a trident, the symbol of Seeva, the destroyer. Various minor temples are placed on the flanks, where there was room to build, down to the water's edge; also small houses for the use of the Brahmins, and others, who either reside on this holy mount or frequent it. Wherever suitable surfaces presented themselves, the rocks have been sculptured all over, like Egyptian monuments, with mythological figures and characters, of which the rude style and caricature-resemblances of the things intended are the best recommendations, the subjects being, in many instances, too gross to be endured, except by eyes blinded by the god of this world. Staircases are hewn upwards, and along the slopes, in different directions, from the water below to the several edifices on this unique island, which is substantially one huge stone. One of the very few fine mythological traditions of the Hindoos (most of their fables being as monstrous as madmen's dreams, or as silly as those of idiots) is, that in the beginning of the world all the channels of the sea were dry, impassable abysses, till Brahma, in

heaven upon the earth; which soon, with its per

longed to an ascetic, who lived here in contemplative retirement. Though it is now a ruin, and forsaken, its lofty exterior, as well as many other relics of internal decoration, prove that it has been a place of considerable grandeur and extent. Near the mosque is a burial-ground, while in many places, round the hill and on the declivities, are fragments of towers and traces of walls, all of brick, but finely wrought and faced with durable cement. From this elevation the prospect of land and water is the most striking that we have seen in India. The magnificent Ganges, rolling in its amplitude below our feet, presents, at the distance of half a mile, in the midst of its channel, another high rock, already mentioned, crowned with a superb Hindoo temple. Beyond this the river is traceable, in splendid reaches, through the whole country. Towards the right the land is flat, but well adorned with trees, and thickly peopled, and skirted with fine hills.

The insulated rock, with its idolatrous diadem, forms one of the most singular and picturesque objects in the world, according to the testimony of those who have seen most of nature's curiosities by land and water. It is pretty evident that this columnar mass has been separated from the adjacent shore by the encroachments of the Ganges, working its way behind an obstacle which it had not force to remove, and taking prisoner an opponent not otherwise to be overcome. It is about a quarter of a mile in circuit at the base, where many huge crags rear their heads above the water. Over these the great rock rises abruptly, but in such angles, protuberances, and recessions, on their flanks, as

void, and engirdled the land with the ocean.

Several women, with children in their arms, presented themselves, from time to time, on the shore, near our pinnace, begging with such importunity and perseverance as would take no repulse. We usually dismissed them, enriched and delighted, by giving each woman two pice, and each child one. A pice is the hundred and twentieth part of a dollar. But every necessary of life here, where necessaries are few and simple, is so cheap, that the wages of a servant, even in Calcutta, are often not more than four or five rupees a month, at two shillings sterling the rupee; out of which he provides houserent, food, and clothing, for himself and his family.

Near Monghir we saw exposed on the bank, as we sailed by, the dead body of a human being, quite naked, partly in and partly out of the water. On this a savage dog had fastened, and was tearing the flesh from the bones with no small appetite, while about forty hungry vultures and a gigantic crane were keenly watching for their turn, when he should have sufficiently gorged himself; but, growing impatient, they ventured a little nearer than he liked, when the dog bolted upon them in fury and instantly put the whole covey to flight. From Jelingy we entered the "Burra Gunga,” or Great Ganges. This is most truly a magnificent river. The noble width of the channel, the sea-like waves that frequently agitate the vessels, of which great numbers are always in sight, produce altogether a most powerful impression on first entering this mass of yellow

water.

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The

July 11. Sailing close upon shore in the vicinity of Patna, we had an opportunity of being spectators at a Hindoo funeral. corpse of an old man was brought to the beach upon a bier of bamboos, aud set down with the face towards the sacred Gunga (Ganges), as it is called. Presently a boat laden with wood for the burning arrived; and with this the pile was formed, consisting principally of small sticks, with some large logs, all very dry; over which four green boughs, one at each corner, were placed. Two half cocoa-nut shells, containing fire, were set on the ground to be ready for use. Two muslin cloths, one white, the other crimson, which had concealed the body, but were longer than necessary, were then each curtailed at one end, when the pieces torn off were divided in shreds among the kindred of the deceased. The corpse, thus barely covered, was brought to the water, and part of the head immerged, the nearest kinsman standing in the stream and throwing handfuls of water over the whole, till every limb was drenched; after which the red cloth was carefully raised and smoothly adjusted over the body. This was lifted again upon the bier, and from thence stretched upon the pile, with the head towards the river. Abundance of fuel was heaped above and around, so as entirely to hide it, and the whole encompassed with dry brushwood, that might kindle at once when the flame should be applied. But a long and furious altercation ensued at this critical juncture; the boatman who had furnished the wood, sitting down by the cocoa-nut shells, from which the fire was to be taken, positively refused to let the ceremony proceed till he had received payment for the materials. His demand was two rupees (four shillings), which being deemed too much by the party, they strenuously resisted, but in vain; the fellow would not move till the money was in his gripe. The nearest kinsman, then tying about his loins the remnants of cloth that had been rent from the shroud of the corpse, stood prepared to do the last office of affection for the deceased. A quantity of ghee (Indian butter), resembling thick oil, being poured upon the faggots, to make them burn more fiercely, this person walked six times round the pile and applied a brushwood torch to it in three or four places, and soon the heap was in a blaze. He then stepped into the river, and falling prostrate towards the corpse, with his feet in the water and his body along the sand, he set up a howling lamentation, which was accompanied by the hard din of several conch-shells, blown by people that stood near the funeral pyre, for about a minute. After this he rose up and carefully superintended the process of cremation. The utmost pains were taken that every part of the body and every fragment of wood should be reduced to ashes. Some of the larger joints however remained. When the fire was nearly extinct, the chief mourner and his relatives threw water from the Ganges upon the embers from cocoa-nut shells till the heap was saturated. One large log having nearly escaped the flames, he flung it into the river, and followed its

course, throwing water upon it with both his hands, till, having reached the main current, it was quickly borne away. All the relics of the pile, wood and bones, were afterwards cast into the same sacred depository; and the ground on which the holocaust had been made was washed perfectly clean from every trace of defilement. When all was over, the relatives retired from the spot with much apparent solemnity, and the spectators quietly dispersed. Several Brahmins were present, but took no part in the performance of the rite.

sun.

July 12. Within a few yards of the river on our left stood one of those horrid figures called a yogee-an Indian saint-a gentleman-beggar, who had placed himself in a certain attitude, from which he had vowed never to swerve during the remainder of his life, but spend his existence in mental abstraction. He appeared on a platform of earth, raised about eighteen inches from the ground. At one end of this mound (which might be seven feet long by five broad) were erected two bamboos, seven or eight feet high, and sufficiently apart for him to stand between them. At elbow-height a broad board was placed across from the one bambʊo to the other; and upon the middle of this another piece of plank, two feet long by five inches wide, was fixed, sloping upwards from him. He, therefore, standing on the platform and resting his arms upon the cross-bar, held with his hands on each side of the upright sloping board. He seemed to press equally on either foot, leaning a little forward, with his face turned rather aside and raised towards the His personal appearance was squalid and miserable. His body was daubed all over with blue mud; his hair-long, matted, discoloured to a yellowish brown with exposure-dangled in all directions. His beard was bushy and black, and the rest of his face so disfigured with hair that it might be said to be all beard. Not the slightest motion in one of his limbs nor in a muscle of his countenance was perceptible. He was altogether without clothing, except a slip of brown stuff about the loins. He wore the poita, or sacred thread, indicating that he was a Brahmin. Night and day, it is understood, the wretched sufferer (if indeed his state can be called one of suffering) maintains without any variation this paralysing position. However, at the contrary end of the platform are four upright bamboos, with a mat suspended upon them, forming such a rude canopy as the Hindoos often sleep under: and at a short distance there is another shelter of the same kind; so that it is not improbable the crafty mendicant (like many of that fraternity in all countries, who live by their miseries, but know how to relax from them at due seasons), occasionally at least takes the liberty to slip out of his pillory, and enjoy a restorative nap under the darkness of night. It may be a question whether he is most a dupe to his own fanaticism, or a deceiver of the credulity of others, on whose charitable contributions he subsists. After all,

it may be no great penance for an idle fellow to loll day and night in a wooden frame, especially