242 HOT SPRING NEAR MONGHIR-WORSHIP OF WORKING-TOOLS. Sept. 3. We reached Monghir by sunset. The current being very strong and rapid off the old fort here, the boat which towed our pinnace across the river came under the lee side of her, and was instantly sunk with five or six of her crew. Happily, however, they all got on board without injury, and the boat was afterwards recovered. Thus again hath the good hand of our God been upon us, to ward off danger, ever near, yet always kept at sufficient distance not to harm us. Near Monghir is a famous hot spring, called Seeta Koond, from the act of a Hindoo goddess, who, being accused by her husband of infidelity, absolved herself by offering to take an oath of her innocence, and, as a pledge of its truth, giving him the choice whether a hot spring or a cold one should spout forth on the spot. He, being of a cold temperament, chose the former; and no sooner had his wife sworn than up bubbled this fountain, which a hundred ages had not been able to cool. The water is limpid and tasteless, and esteemed so pure that it is not only sought for drinking at table by the better classes of inhabitants, but stored for voyages, under the idea that it will keep better than any other. We found the temperature at 132°, but it varies in different parts of the well, which is enclosed in a brick cistern, thirty-four feet in length by twenty-nine in breadth, having steps to the bottom, which appears to be from five to six feet in depth. Sept. 12. At Burhampore the Mahommedans (as indeed throughout India) are childishly superstitious, and their belief in the potency of charms and witchcraft equals anything among the pagans of the South Sea and Sandwich Islands. Here they practise a singular kind of ordeal. There is a tradition that, at some remote 'period, four righteous kings reigned in India at the same time, who coined rupees of a particular die. These are now become exceedingly rare and precious, for their virtue rather than their value, the royal saints having bequeathed their personal holiness to these their silver representatives. When a theft, or other public offence, has been committed, and several individuals are suspected, in order to find out the real criminal one of these sacred rupees is put into the balance against its exact weight of rice; and that quantity of the grain being delivered to each of the persons on test, he is required to put it into his mouth. Those who are innocent, it is said, will return it well masticated and moistened with saliva; but from the lips of the guilty it will come out in dry powder. Instances of the success of this ingenious experiment have been mentioned to us, which there is small reason to question, since the very fear of detection may so effectually parch the tongue and palate as to answer the general purpose with a timid and superstitious people. Sept. 14. We dined with the nawaub (nabob) of Moorshedabad, in company with most of the distinguished Europeans, civil and military, at this station. The entertainment was exceedingly sumptuous and profuse. We were first received in an open tent, in front of which pantomimes and dances were exhibited; afterwards the nawaub, a youth about sixteen years of age, led the way into the palace, and, though he ate nothing himself, sat at the head of the principal table, in a dress of the most splendid costume, brilliantly adorned with diamonds and pearls, in long chains and knots, among which an emerald, of extraordinary size and beauty, was remarkable. The feast was set out in several rooms, all of which were crowded with guests and the great officers of the prince's court. In the evening there were illuminations and fireworks, on a scale of magnificence which we had never seen or imagined. These, which were exhibited on the river and its banks, consisted not of unmeaning displays of flame and light, but they very picturesquely (we might say very poetically) represented battles, sieges, and sea-fights, with a measure of grandeur and terror, amidst surrounding darkness, which powerfully affected spectators like ourselves, to whom the mimic belligerency appeared at once novel and real. In retiring, the nawaub, who stood at one extremity of a handsome apartment to take leave of his guests, presented, with his own hands, a curious necklace of silver wire to each lady as she went out, and put a small quantity of attar of roses upon her handkerchief. Similar necklaces were thrown by his Highness over the heads of several of the gentlemen, among whom the Deputation were thus honoured. Sept. 15. A blacksmith who had been employed yesterday on the Mission premises fetched away his tools this morning for the purpose of worshipping them, this being the day on which the Hindoos pay divine honours to the implements of their various trades: the files and hammers of the smith, the chisels and saws of the carpenter, the diamond of the glazier, the crucible of the goldsmith, &c. &c., all become idols on this anniversary. Thus do they resemble those of old, who sacrificed to their net, and burnt incense to their drag. We had Sept. 18. In traversing the city and neighbourhood to-day we were each mounted upon an elephant, and seated in a houdah, or tent, upon its back. The motion to us was irksome, being slow, and the pace long. The caution of these animals in passing upon any infirm or dangerous ground, is so great as even to betray timidity. They frequently cannot be prevailed upon to venture upon the slight bamboo bridges, for instance, which are common here. to cross a small one, over a mere ditch; but the ends of some of the bamboos appearing, the animal hesitated, slackened its pace, and tried the strength of the support by putting first one foot upon it and then another, before it would trust its whole enormous bulk. In going over loose or boggy soil, they thrust the end of their trunk down to the bottom, to gauge the depth for solid footing; and thus they stalk along, sounding their way. The beasts on which we rode were full grown, so that we seemed to look down from a moving hill, along the flanks and over the head; but they were docile enough to be guided by the driver, astride upon the neck, with a touch or a word, and rarely required a AN ELEPHANT'S REVENGE-INFANTICIDE. hint from the goad which he held in his hand. In marching through some of the narrow streets, their rounded sides nearly came in contact with the buildings. When they approached a corner, they always made a loud noise, that people or cattle might get out of the way, and no sooner was this warning heard than passengers and animals scampered off to make room, where there could be no disputing for the right of road. We must honestly add that these, our majestic bearers, were complete freebooters, seizing food which they liked wherever they could reach it. Not content with breaking off the branches of trees that overhung their path, and plants that grew on walls fourteen or fifteen feet high-which they easily did with their trunks-one of them laid hold of a bundle of green sugar-cane, which he drew out of a cart, and eagerly devoured it: the poor man to whom the property belonged complained loudly of the theft, but this gave no concern to the elephant, and as little to the driver. In another place, while passing a shop where grain was sold, the "lithe proboscis" was plunged unceremoniously into a basket, and as much as it could hold laded out into the ready mouth below, without the pilferer halting an instant. If allowed to stop for a moment or two where there was grass, he twisted his trunk round as much as he could gather within its grasp, tore it up, roots and soil together, and, with the horny toes of his fore-feet, carefully beat away all the earth from it before he put the morsel into his mouth. The trunk, indeed, is an admirably appropriate member of the unwieldy body to which it is attached, combining strength and flexibility in an extraordinary degree; while the eye, quick and piercing, is ever on the scout, and regulates all the creature's motions. The elephant in its domestic state endears itself to all its acquaintance by its gentleness, sagacity, and tractable disposition. In travelling, it often carries a large leafy bough upon its trunk, with which it can drive off the teasing insects from the fore parts of its body; while with its tail, which is long and bushy, and almost as flexible as the proboscis, it keeps clear its hind quarters. At Moorshedabad we were told that a gentleman had a young elephant, which, being allowed to roam at large about his premises, one day entered the dining-room, where a large company were assembled. Being treated with a biscuit from one person, a piece of bread from another, and a sweetmeat from a third, it went all round the table, levying contributions, till it came to a young gentlemen who pricked the end of its proboscis with his toothpick. The insulted animal retired immediately, but soon returned, and raising its trunk blew out of it, full into the offender's face, thousands of ants, which it had collected from a nest hard by, whither it had repaired for the means of vengeance. Elephants sometimes become blind, yet continue to be nearly as useful as when they could see; their surprising sagacity, their delicacy of touch, and probably of smell, amply compensating for loss of vision. An old bridge having 243 been broken down, and a new one erected near the same site, a blind elephant was driven to the place, to try whether he would go over that which was dilapidated; but no sooner did he approach the ruin than he turned back, and nothing could induce him to proceed. Where they doubt the security of the ground, they keep their trunks nearly close to it, and thus ascertain their footing at every step. The natives value their elephants by their tails, which are long and lithe, and can be spontaneously knotted into a ring, and untied again. The estimate is made according to the perfection of the hairs on this appendage, which are like copper wire, and stand upon the opposite sides as the bristles of a brush. If an elephant, in an encounter with a tiger, has lost his tail, his worth in the market is thereby greatly reduced. Sept. 22. Attending a court of justice, we observed the manner in which Hindoo and Mahommedan witnesses are sworn, respectively. When the Hindoo was placed at the bar, a copper vessel (copper is deemed a sacred metal), the size of a tea-saucer, was presented to him, containing some water from the sacred Ganges, and a few leaves from a sacred plant. This he held flat on the palms of both his hands all the time that he was under examination, and consequently regarded himself as swearing by Gunga-the Holy River-to the truth of all his words. Some Hindoos of the higher castes, it is said, will not take this oath under any circumstance, deeming it a profanation. The Mussulman, in like manner, held a copy of the Koran, wrapped in a cloth, which was laid upon his hands, while he answered the questions that were put to him. The Hindoos, in general, are stupidly passive to the sentences of law passed upon them. A criminal, being condemned to be hanged on the following day, made a low salaam to the judge, and coolly replied, "Bhote hkoob"-" very good." Another, when asked if there was anything which he particularly wished before leaving the world, answered, "Yes; I never saw a great heap of rupees together, and of all things I should like to have that pleasure before I die." A third, when the same question was addressed to him, longed for something more substantial. He said, "Your food is much better than mine; now, before you hang me, pray give me such a good dinner as you have." The indulgence was granted, and he ate with no small appetite. A convict was informed with due solemnity that his punishment must be eight years of imprisonment. "Ten, if you please!" cried the poor fellow, anxiously. He was told again that eight was the judgment of the court. But he persisted in his request, crying, "No, no; ten, ten, if you please!" "Why so?" demanded the judge. "Because," returned the shrewd calculator, "I am fifty years old; I shall live to be sixty; and if I am turned out of gaol at the end of eight, how am I to live the other two?" The sacrifice of infants, by throwing them into the Ganges, was very common here (indeed it was so along the whole course of the sacred 244 SACRED CANNON-FESTIVAL OF DOORGA. river), till the practice was made a capital offence, punishable with death, by the British government. A frightful outrage of this kind not long ago occurred near Cutwa. In a village near this city we saw what yet appears above ground of an immense brass cannon, seventeen feet and a half long, twenty-one inches in diameter at the muzzle, and enlarging proportionately towards the breech; the calibre is six inches. On the upper surface are several large rings, and a Persian inscription, of which we have not preserved a copy. This prodigious piece of ordnance was mounted upon a carriage of wood and iron; but a large tree has been springing up, about and underneath it, till it is no longer possible to move the cannon without destroying the plant, whose roots have completely enveloped and upheaved the lower part, and whose growth, in due time, will undoubtedly embed the whole mass. The Hindoos have deified this inert and impotent engine of destruction, having placed an idol at one extremity, which they worship. They have a tradition that when this cannon is fired the world will come to an end, and, from present appearances, it is not likely to be fired before then. becomes so fierce that no man may approach her, except at his peril; the long bill, as an offensive weapon, being scarcely less formidable than a broad-sword in the hands of a powerful warrior-of which the following proof has been mentioned to us. A man was carrying a leg of mutton upon his head, when an adjutant-crane, too eagerly darting to seize so precious a quarry, missed its aim, and grasped the neck of the poor fellow, between the serrated mandibles of its beak, with such savage ferocity as to cut it nearly asunder, and kill him upon the spot. Oct. 9. Being at Chinsurah, during the festival of the Doorga-the Goddess of Nature-we saw heathenism at the height of its madness. In the palace of an opulent baboo, an idol with ten arms, manufactured for the occasion at an expense of five hundred rupees, was placed in the recess of a superb apartment, used as a temple. The image, not yet having been consecrated, was said to be blind; but a small hole was left in one of the eyes, through which the divinity was supposed to enter at a particular crisis of the rites, when the orifice was immediately closed, and she was shut in; not long however to remain a prisoner there, for soon afterwards the idol itself was broken to pieces, and cast into the Ganges, with many others, carved for this particular festival, and by the sale of which the craftsmen make no small gain. Before the sanctuary was a spacious area, about the middle of which a stump of wood was fixed in the ground, having a notch in the top of it wide enough to admit the necks of kids or lambs, when slain for offerings; across which there was an iron bolt, to confine the animal, with the head projected, as through the loop-hole of a pillory. Beyond this was another stouter apparatus of the same kind, with an opening wide enough to secure the necks of young buffaloes. These two stakes were, in fact, "the horns of the altar," a mound of earth being raised on that side of each over which the animal was to be stretched to receive the mortal stroke. For this a tremendous knife, something like a bill Sept. 24. One of the gigantic cranes (ardea dubia), commonly called adjutants, from their soldier-like walk, was brought to us. The breadth, from tip to tip of the extended wings, measured not less than eleven feet; the length, from the point of the bill to the end of the tail, was four feet, including twelve inches for the bill itself; the legs were a yard in height. The plumage on the back was a light blue (in some specimens dark brown), on the belly white; the bill a dingy white; the iris sky-blue, and the eye quick and keen. The throat is capable of such prodigious expansion as to swallow, whole, the body of a cat, or a small dog. We tried an experiment with one of these gluttons, when it bolted, with perfect ease, the entire leg of a kid. The peculiar feature of this crane is a membranous pouch, of a reddish colour, occasionally let down from the neck, which, being inflated with air, pre-hook, four feet in length (including a short sents a cylinder fourteen or fifteen inches long, and three or four in diameter. Many small apertures, each equal to a pin's head, communicate between the windpipe and this appendage, of which the precise use is not known. The pouch is without feathers, and is generally gathered up about the neck. In very hot weather this bird is wont to soar to an invisible height in the atmosphere, for the purpose of enjoying a cooler temperature, when it seems probable that the expanded pouch enables it to maintain its buoyancy, or in some way assists in the functions of flight or respiration. The adjutant-crane is a privileged carrion-eater throughout India, preying on all kinds of offal in the streets of the most populous cities, and collecting no small part of its sustenance from the floating corpses which may be said to people the Ganges, the Hooghly, and the Jumna. builds its nest in lofty trees, slightly putting a few sticks across each other, on which to deposit its eggs. In the breeding season the female It handle), and very broad, strong, and sharp, was provided. This slaughtering-place was surrounded with posts and railing, to which were bound two buffaloes, the one about two years and the other fifteen months old, also four kids and a lamb, all males. The horns of the buffaloes were painted red, and garlanded with foliage; their bodies were successively sprinkled with water from the Ganges, and an infusion of turmeric poured upon their heads. A few green leaves were strown on the ground under their bellies, and a yellow cloth cast over their backs; after which the man who was to be executioner on the occasion lightly drew the great knife across the neck of each of the intended victims. The four kids and the lamb, one after the other, were then brought forward, and their bodies being stretched across the earthen altar, and their necks fastened within the forked stake, each in turn was decapitated by a single blow. The moment the head fell a Brahmin snatched it up and ran to ANIMAL SACRIFICES-DEPUTATION SAIL FOR MADRAS. present it to the idol. Another Brahmin took up the body, and held it while the blood flowed into a sacred copper vessel, lined with plantainleaves. Immediately before the knife descended, at a given signal, a terrible din of gongs and drums, accompanied by a loud shout of the multitude, was raised on every hand, which continued till the head had been laid before the idol. When the five smaller animals had been despatched, a piece of the flesh of each was cut out of the carcase, and thrown into the dish that had received its blood, and the whole was set reeking before the shrine where they heads were. The lesser stake was then pulled up, the earthen altar repaired, and a large gourd, with a streak of red paint, was placed upon it. This was split in two, and both ends being thrown aside, seven sugar-canes were, in like manner, first laid upon the altar, and each cut in two. These were to represent offerings of the fruits of the soil. The larger buffalo was then led within the enclosure, and his neck fixed within the fork of the stronger stake; while, by means of ropes fastened to all his legs, his body was drawn out, and held down upon the earthen mound, or altar. The sacrificer, a blacksmith, a man of mighty bone and muscle, then fetched the knife with great formality from before the idol, where it had been laid with each of the former offerings. For a few moments he looked with intense earnestness towards the image of Doorga, as though imploring the might of her ten arms to aid his two; every eye was fixed on him, and every face expressed a strange solicitude for the sequel, as the canon law in such case requires that the head of the victim shall fall under one blow; for, if this be not effected, the omen would be deemed most unfortunate, and the sacrificer would be driven away with scorn and cursing from the place. The blacksmith, however, on this occasion failed not; having deliberately taken aim and lifted the terrible instrument, one moment we saw it gleaming through the air, and the next it was crimsoned and reeking with blood from the slain beast; the head of which was immediately caught up and presented to the idol. Meanwhile the people shouted and danced-hugged in their arms, and crowned with a chaplet of leaves, the brawny slaughterman, as a benefactor of their country. Presently, however, a grand struggle took place for the body of the buffalo, which was dragged away by the strongest party in triumph, as lawful spoil. The second bullock was beheaded with the same good luck; but the body of this was seized by a number of women, who fought with Amazonian fury for the possession of it. Many men and boys afterwards pressed forward to dip their hands in the blood, as it lay in pools on the ground, marking with it their temples and various parts of their bodies. A lighted lamp was then placed on the head of each of the victims, and one of the Brahmins began to mutter over it his prayers or incantations; but we were not allowed to see or hear any more of the ceremony. On the evening of the following day all the idols prepared for this anniversary were brought down to the river, embarked on a platform between two boats, from 245 which, with great pomp of music and pageantry, they were plunged into the stream. We were told that, the spirits of the gods being supposed to have gone out of the images, they were regarded as dead carcases, and, instead of being worshipped, were spurned and execrated by the people, who both on land and water indulged themselves in the most abominable excesses. At Chinsurah, also, there is a famous place of resort, called Saraishortollah, or the residence of the Bull-god. This is a square area, on which, beneath the umbrage of one vast banyan-tree, stand several temples dedicated to different popular idols, to accommodate all classes of comers. Here many self-inflicted or self-chosen cruelties are practised, by those who thus hope to merit a place in the Hindoo heaven. A favourite penance is to have the tongue bored through with a large iron spike. A blacksmith is the operator, who is said to be very skilful both in driving a nail and driving a bargain. It sometimes happens that the candidates for this piece of service at his hands are so numerous and impatient that they are obliged to submit to be arranged in order as they arrive, and wait till each in his turn can be gratified with a wound in the unruly member, which they use meanwhile with no small eloquence to induce him to hasten to their relief, and, when he is come, to get the business done as cheaply as they can. The shrewd knave, however, is wise enough to take his time, and extort a larger or a smaller fee, according to the number, rank, or fanaticism of his customers. The principal object of veneration is a large unshapen block of black stone, in one of the temples under the tree, which thousands come from the remotest provinces of the peninsula to worship. The tradition runs, that the proprietor dreamed that, if he would search in such a part of the bed of the river, he would find just such a stone. Straightway next morning he went to the spot, and found the identical block which had been shown him in his sleep, and which of course could be no other than a god; so a god he made it, and invited whoever pleased to pay their devotions to it, provided they first paid a small tax to himself. Thus are these people deluded by the basest and shallowest artifices of profligate and mercenary men. CHAPTER XLVI. Deputation sail for Madras-Arrival at VizagapatamDr. Bell's School-system-Madras-Sir Thomas Monroe -Chowltries, or Caravanseras-Arcot-Pungalore-Palanquin-bearers - Guramconda-Tigers-Arrival at Cuddapah-Hindoo Villany-Festival of Cama, at Bellary -Ruins of Bijanaghur-The Cow and the TigerNew-year Festival at Gudduck-Village FortressesWhirlwind at Chittoor-Christian Natives at Belgaum -Bathing of Buffaloes-Ants-Indian Gipsies. 1826. DEC. 19. After a second residence of two months in Calcutta, we sailed this day for Madras, intending to visit the Missionary stations of our society in the south of India, as we have now done those in the north; where, so far as it was practicable, we trust that we have accomplished the benevolent purposes for which we 246 DR. BELL'S SCHOOL-SYSTEM-CHOWLTRIES. were originally deputed. Our vessel is the Aurora, burthen five hundred tons, and teakbuilt. 1827. Jan. 5. We landed at Vizagapatam, where we stayed three days, sojourning with the Missionaries, Messrs. Gordon and Dawson, and discussing with them various important matters relative to their labours on this station. Jan. 11. On our arrival at Madras we found our kind Missionary friends, Messrs. Taylor and Crisp, waiting to receive us, and with them we took up our abode. other parts of the east) are erected at convenient distances by the roadside, which are open day and night for the reception of respectable passengers. Inferior sheds are likewise reared to shelter persons of the lower classes. Adjacent to these are water-tanks, and frequently pagodas. White pots are in some places suspended from the branches of trees, containing chunam (lime), which the people use with the betel-nut and cere-leaf, so commonly chewed by them. Vessels are occasionally set by the wayside, under the thick shadow of trees, containing cool water and drinking-cups for a temporary refreshment. Ignited ropes also are fastened here and there against a wall, at which people may light their cheroots or tobaccopipes, which they smoke as they go along. The chowltry at which we halted was sixty feet in thatched verandah in front. Three parallel rows of arched pillars supported the ridge-tree and roof. At each end and behind are private apartments. The whole is well paved with brick, and kept perfectly clean, without expense to any one who enjoys the benefit of it. conveniences are generally built by wealthy Hindoos as sacrifices of charity, whereby future happiness is to be merited. These Jan. 17. We have been much gratified with the general appearance, the admirable management, and we believe the efficient means for doing much good, of the Madras school, which was formerly under the care of the public-spirited Dr. Bell, and wherein he first adopted the educational system which bears his name; borrow-length by thirty in width, having an open, ing indeed some of the details from Hindoo usages, but greatly improving these, and adding others that were necessary in the instruction of children of rather a higher degree of intellect than is often to be found among the native castes here. The dwelling-house is a plain, common building; but the rooms for conducting the business of the establishment are very large and commodious: the principal one being two hundred and fifty feet in length, by fifty in width. There are at this time, on the foundation, four hundred and sixty boys, chiefly half-castes, the sons of British soldiers and native women; many of whom are orphans; and of these latter a few whose parents were English;-these are boarded, lodged, fed, clothed and taught the rudiments of useful learning and Christian knowledge, upon Dr. Bell's plan, at an expense of about eight guineas a-head per annum. The superintendant, the Rev. Mr. Roy, showed us the premises, and answered our various inquiries with great politeness and intelligence. Jan. 19. This morning we had the honour of an interview with the governor, Sir Thomas Monroe, who of his own accord spoke with manifest pleasure of what he had already heard concerning the work of God in the South Seas, and desired to hear more at a convenient opportunity. We stated to his Excellency our purpose (with permission) to visit the Missionary stations in South India; and he, in the most gracious manner, promised at once to furnish us with suitable facilities; though having no licence from the East India Directors in England, we understand that we might have been ordered forthwith to leave the country. We were afterwards entertained several times by Sir Thomas Monroe during our stay at Madras, and had great satisfaction in affording him such further information respecting the Pacific Islands as he appeared delighted to receive. Feb. 4. In the evening we reached the chowltry, about half-way between Madras and Tripasore-about fifteen miles-which completed the first stage on our journey. It is pleasing to observe the hospitable attention that is paid to the accommodation of travelling in these countries by the rich natives. Chowltries (which answer the same purposes as caravanseras in We travel in palanquins, each being provided with a set of thirteen men, palky-bearers, hired by the month at no great cost, besides coolies, or porters, to carry provisions and other requisites. There being no inns where entertainment can be procured, travellers furnish themselves with eatables, which may be cooked at the chowltries; but, as there is seldom any furniture in these except a long stool, bedding also is a necessary article of luggage. Our palanquins were our carriages by day and our couches at night. Feb. 5. The roads in this part of India are exceedingly bad, being little else than barren burning sand, covered with a scanty vegetation. In some places they have been flooded to-day so deeply that the water reached the lower part of our palanquins, and our bearers have waded up to the loins through it. Palmyra, fan-palm, and banyan-trees, however, abound and flourish amidst universal apparent sterility. Early in the evening we were obliged to halt, that our weary bearers might rest themselves. During this day's march one of our servants, being at a little distance before the rest, was attacked by two ruffians, who attempted to rob him, but he escaped; and, the alarm being given, a chase ensued, and the rogues were taken. One of these was immediately bound, with his hands behind his back, and well beaten upon the spot with an old shoe, which is the greatest disgrace that a Hindoo can suffer; but our men would not punish the other, who most deserved both chastisement and contempt, because he proved to be a Brahmin, by the sacred thread which he wore. They were both therefore turned loose again. This incident reminded us of the importance of being upon our guard; a precaution which a traveller in India hardly thinks of now in the well-governed districts; very few robberies |