debilitated by a residence in these sultry climes. And we are of opinion that no Missionary in these countries, labouring under such debility, should ever return to England, when the recovery of his health is the only object, till he has paid a visit to these hills, where he will find a climate so much resembling that of England as to justify the hope that such cases of disease as would be benefited by the one would be as much so by the other.

We were delighted to find flourishing here, as in their native soil, many flowers and plants common in our own country, where also they grow wild in the pasture-grounds. Among these were docks and brambles, geraniums and roses, in profusion; while fields of barley and oats waved in various directions. The general aspect of the mountains, as we proceeded upward, was that of sheep-downs-bold, rounded, and clothed with grass, but having few trees or

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bushes, except occasional clumps of overhanging woods. Though the sun shone out the greater part of the day, the temperature of the atmosphere was like that of the month of May in England, cool and balmy: "inspiring vernal delight and joy." Indeed, it was difficult to imagine oneself within the torrid zone, and only thirteen degrees north of the line. The thermometer at the highest point did not exceed 70°. Mr. Sullivan's house stands in an ample hollow, surrounded by picturesquely-varied mountains, nine thousand feet above the sea. From this exhilarating elevation the eye looks down over the immensity of descending steeps to the immeasurable champaigns below, as from that earthly paradise which the Italian poets represent to be similarly situated,-furthest from the earth, and nearest to the moon; where the souls delivered from purgatory rest till the time appointed for their reception into heaven.

July 28. The boa-constrictor serpent is often found in the south of Hindostan. At Quilon one of these monsters was killed, and brought into the house where we were sojourning. It measured nine feet in length. A short time ago a woman, having left her child, six months old, in the jungle alone for a few minutes, on her return to the place missed it. She gave the alarm immediately, and the thicket being searched a huge boa-constrictor was discovered and killed on the spot. In its gorge the poor infant was found, swallowed down whole.

Aug. 2. We have often observed a favourite kind of scarecrow placed in the rice-fields, not to protect the grain from being plundered and wasted by the birds of the air, but to ward off from it the influences of evil eyes, in which the Hindoos most potently believe. The black image of a man, rudely carved, is placed in the midst of the growing crop, so conspicuously as to arrest the attention of every passenger, when, if any one happens to have an evil eye, at the first look this figure draws all the pestilent virtue out of it upon its own head, as surely as a

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touch receives the charge of an electric battery; and the guarded paddy remains unhurt.

Aug. 4. In the palace of the Ranee, or sovereign princess, at Trivanderam, among other curiosities we saw several civet-cats, which are caught in the jungles among the mountains. They are carefully kept in cages, having a bamboo placed perpendicularly in the same; and against this the creatures rub the parts from which the precious perfume oozes; whereby her Royal Highness is supplied with what she requires for her own use, in native purity.

Aug. 9. Cape Comorin, the southern point of the Indian peninsula, being only three miles from the village of Agatees, where we had lodged, we went early in the morning to see this "land's end." There are a few houses of Brahmins, and several pagodas, near the spot. One of the latter is very spacious, and ranks among the most sacred enclosures in the country. Of course it is a place of great resort for pilgrims, who come hither, on the festivals, to present gifts to the goddess, and to bathe in the sea. An idol is brought annually from Surinderum, to make love to Cania Kummara (for that is her name, from which also the Cape derives its appellation), and propose marriage to her. She demands of him that he shall prepare ground, sow rice, and cause it to spring up and ripen for the wedding-feast. This feat of husbandry, however (as the sole condition on which she will accept him), she requires to be done all in one day; and, as none of her wooers have ever yet been able to accomplish it, the goddess has never been won.

This extremity of the continent is rocky and barren. A violent sea is constantly breaking on the shore, and against a reef which runs out into the water. In doubling the Cape, therefore, it is necessary for ships to stand out at a considerable distance from the land.

Aug. 30. The present is the season of one of the Hindoo festivals, when dreadful feuds generally arise between the right-hand castes and the left-hand ones. The tumult and uproar, accompanied with fierce conflicts, have continued here (at Madura) for several days. The whole dispute is about the manner of performing a certain ceremony. The right-hands contend that to them only belongs the privilege of presenting their offerings to the common idols of both parties, mounted upon elephants. The lefts contend that they have as much right to ride on the occasion as their antagonists; each faction, of course, endeavours to prevent the other from presenting their offerings at all. This miserable schism has existed for generations. It is said that when a certain great captain was serving in India, at one of these festivals of discord, the usual quarrels (which, in truth, are just as rational as if a man's right hand should fall out with his left, and each should attempt to prevent the other from serving the mouth) became so desperate, that he seized two ringleaders of each party, and, having convicted them of endangering the public peace, ordered them in turn to be blown to pieces from the mouth of a cannon. This prompt execution

for a while struck so much terror into the bulk of the mischief-makers as to restrain them from similar disorders for some time afterwards; but latterly they have been revived with characteristic asperity. We understand it to be the fact (though we do not recollect having heard it mentioned before we came hither), that the whole native Hindoo population are divided in this sectarian manner, whatever their castes may be, into right and left-hand men. Hence, the former being deemed the holier of the two in the human economy, those who take their names from it in the social system assume corresponding superiority. The right hand must always give and receive presents; any breach of this etiquette would be deemed a high affront. The left hand is condemned to perform all the meaner offices of life, being regarded as unclean.

The Hindoos are habitually-we had almost said constitutionally-covetous. Much of their ordinary conversation with one another is about rupees and property. This spirit never leaves the man possessed by it, till his own spirit leaves his body. When sick, and apprehensive of danger, they often bury their treasure within the house, and under the place whereon they sleep, to secure it during their illness, and have it at hand if they recover. Sometimes, out of spite to their heirs, they hide it in holes, where they hope neither the latter nor any one else can find it after their decease. It is not uncommon, when the possessor of a hoard, which he has not made away with, is dying, for him to say to his wife, or his friend (to whom he may have given it in charge), "Oh, do bring me that bag of money, that my eyes may once more look upon it before I leave the world!"

When at Quilon we were not more than twenty-four hours from Cotym, and the Syrian churches, which have excited so lively an interest among Christians in England; and being aware that the worthy Church Missionaries there wished to see us, and that our having seen those Christians would be highly gratifying to our Missionary Society, we resolved to pay them a short visit. Dr. Macauley lent us his boat; we proceeded up the Backwater (a series of lakes running parallel with the sea-shore northward, and seventy-five miles from Quilon), and arrived next day. Our pious and excellent friends received us with all the cordiality and joy of brethren and sisters, and showed us no small kindness. We saw all that was possible for the short time of our visit, both of the state of these churches and of this Mission among them we shall give you a general idea in as few words as we can. The whole Syrian population in Travancore amounts to 13,000 families, perhaps about 70,000 individuals. They have fifty-five churches still in their hands; the papists have appropriated several others to themselves. These churches, in general, resemble the parish churches of our own country, though of course they are of various sizes, and differ much as to the style of architecture. Some of them are respectable buildings, and of a con

siderable extent. They have neither pews nor benches inside. At the east end there is a kind of altar, with steps, on which a cross is placed, and tapers lighted in time of worship. Their mode of worship strongly resembles that of the Armenian churches, and strikingly approaches, in different ceremonies, those of the church of Rome. Though they have crosses in their churches, there is no crucifix nor carved image. The service is read in the Syriac language, of which the people know nothing; and but few of the Catenars are acquainted with it. The Catenars are the priests. Here is no preaching, and nothing in the whole service for their edification, but a short extract from one of the Gospels, which is read in the Malayalim language, which is the language of these Syrian Christians. Of course they are in a state of the most wretched ignorance. In fact, these churches are but so many limbs of popery, from which, as to doctrinal sentiment, they do not essentially differ. The Church Missionaries have for their object the introduction of the pure gospel among these benighted Christians. The Rev. Mr. Bayley is engaged in translating and printing the Scriptures in the Malayalim language, and has made considerable progress. The Rev. Mr. Doran is at the head of the college, in which are fifty-one students and stout boys; twenty-eight of these are intended to be Catenars.

Trivanderam.-This is the capital of the kingdom of Travancore. It is situated about mid-way between Nagercoil and Quilon, and is about forty miles distant from each place, on the main road which leads from the one to the other, and within a mile of the sea-shore. It is an extensive city, with wide streets, the houses standing, in general, in separate compounds, and have a respectable appearance. The style of architecture is peculiar to this country, and the population must be very considerable, though we were not able to form or obtain an estimate. The neighbourhood is likewise populous, and abounds with villages. The ranee's palace is here, an extensive building, near which is a large pagoda; the rest in this city are generally small. Near the city is the house of the resident; when here he takes up his abode there. On the same side of the city are the barracks for the native troops, all the principal officers of which are also Englishmen. Here is also a medical gentleman, Dr. Provan, a respectable and kind man, who attends on the ranee and the young rajahs. Cocoa-nut trees and palmyras grow in every part of the city, and the houses enjoy the benefit of their shade. An artificial canal extends from the lower part of the city, runs parallel with the shore, and forms a communication with the extensive Backwater, which stretches down to Angengo.

Nagercoil, or Nagracoil.-This name comes from Nagur, a serpent; and coil or covil, a church, or place of worship. There is an ancient Hindoo pagoda here, at which the serpent is worshipped. This village, surrounded by several others very near, is situated not far from the southern extremity of the ghauts, or moun

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tains, which extend through this peninsula from north to south, near the western coast. It is also near to the southern extremity of the kingdom of Travancore, and fourteen miles north from Cape Comorin. It is in lat. N. 8° 12', and long. E. 77° 31'. The face of the country around is well wooded, slightly undulated, and rich in well-watered paddy-grounds. The lofty, abrupt, and picturesque ghauts are seen to the eastward, extending to the north and south as far as the eye can reach. The scenery is highly romantic and beautiful. The vicinity of Nagercoil is very populous. The inhabitants are Brahmins, goldsmiths, shopkeepers, weavers, carpenters, sharnars (or the climbers of the palmyra-trees), &c. The pagoda above referred to is the only one here of considerable size; the rest are very numerous, but small, and are called swamy-houses, at which idols are worshipped which the very people who pay them homage call Pishasha (or devils). Idolatry appears throughout Travancore in a more primitive form, and less deteriorated, than in any other part of India; and the Brahmins were more particular in excluding us from their idoltemples.

The kingdom of Travancore possesses still a nominal independence, and is under the government of a ranee, or queen, who is regent for her nephew, who will be of age to ascend the throne in about a year. Trivanderam is the capital city. There is the ranee's palace, and the seat of government. The government, though Hindoo, is singularly liberal, and has, from the earliest ages, granted free toleration to other religions, as the continuance of the Syrian churches demonstrates. The government has never opposed any difficulties in the way of our Missionaries. The Roman Catholics are nume rous in Travancore; and their churches extend along the sea-shore, at the distance of two or three miles from each other. So much attention is paid by the government to the freedom and to the rights of Christians, of all denominations in common, that every court of justice is provided with a Christian judge, who may belong to any denomination-Protestant, Syrian, or Roman Catholic. Colonel Morison is the English resident at the court. This gentleman bears a high character as a man and as a soldier; a character which is still more exalted by its being associated with the principles of Christianity.

The kingdom of Travancore, nearly the whole length of which we have travelled, forms one of the most rich and beautiful parts of Peninsular India. Nearly all the land which is susceptible of it is in a high state of cultivation; the dry soils being planted with palmyra-trees, which abound towards the south, and which yield toddy, from which jaggery (or coarse sugar) is made; the middle and northern parts bearing cocoa-nut trees, which yield similar products. The low and well-watered grounds are cultivated for rice, or paddy, which they produce in great abundance. The heat is moderate. The buildings, both sacred and common, the customs and manners of the people, their dress and orna

is a large and handsome building, situated to the south of the fort, with a view of the sea in front. The Black Town is fortified on the land side, and is open to the sea to the east. It is laid out with great regularity, and contains a large population, principally natives. Here are many good houses. Here also are the mint, and the jail, an Episcopal church, and one of the Mission-chapels, a Roman Catholic and Methodist chapel, mosques and Hindoo pagodas in great numbers, but none of large dimensions. Facing the sea is an extensive row of fine buildings, among which is the supreme court, the custom-house, general post-office, board of trade, and several merchants' houses, &c. Behind these are several very good European shops. Excellent water is raised from wells situated on the northern side of Black Town, and is conveyed all over it by means of pipes. In this city it is delightful to find Missionary, Bible, and Tract Societies; orphan schools for both boys and girls; various other schools, and many other institutions of a noble and benevolent kind, such as adorn most of the great cities and towns in our own favoured land. Here are many pious and excellent individuals belonging to different denominations, several of whom are amongst the first classes of society, and breathe much of the lovely spirit of the gospel.

The neighbourhood of Madras is greatly benefited and adorned by the rivers and canals, which run in different directions, and over which several beautiful bridges are thrown. The roads are amongst the best in the world; and, though the climate is hot, the locality is considered as very healthy.

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Abstract of the Farewell-Letter of the Deputation to the Missionaries on the various stations of the Society in India.

Isle of France, Dec. 7, 1827. DEAR and esteemed Friends and Brethren, Having, as a Deputation from the London Missionary Society, completed our official visits to you, its honoured friends and associates in the great and glorious work in which we are all engaged, and having bid adieu to the shores of India to proceed to the discharge of other duties, we embrace the earliest opportunity allowed us to say Farewell.

A wider scope, beloved brethren, for Missionary exertion and for Missionary talents than lies before you cannot be desired. Not fewer probably than one-tenth of the human race, one hundred millions of immortal beings and British subjects, lie spread around you: the valley is full of dry bones-very dry; the field is white to the harvest, inviting the reapers to put in the sickle. All these immortal beings standing on the verge of an eternal destiny, all hastening to that tribunal where it must be determined by the Judge of all the earth; while alas! with few -very few exceptions, they are without God and without hope in the world. Can you indulge in inglorious supineness, in such circumstances? Can you repose in sloth, when you ought by day and by night to stretch forth the

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hand of Christian philanthropy, and do all you can to snatch these brands from the eternal burnings? We do not question your willingness to use your best exertions in such a cause; and you will allow us affectionately to stir up your minds by way of remembrance, to those obligations which you are under to work while it is called day, seeing the night cometh when no man can work.

Never had Missionaries stronger motives presented to awaken their zeal, and to rouse them to use their most vigorous exertions. And now is the accepted time, this is the day of salvation. So far as the government is concerned, not one obstacle lies in your way, and the prudent Missionary may have access to every city, town, village, and hovel, throughout these extensive countries. You enjoy all the protection and unembarrassed freedom you can wish; and though the civil power wisely maintains its neutrality, it protects you in using your best exertions, and none dare make you afraid; while you have every reason to hope that the Supreme Authority wishes well to your labours and prosperity to your cause.

We are well aware of the difficulties and discouragements which oppose you: human nature in its worst condition; an idolatrous system, the whole of whose principles and ceremonies are diametrically opposed to those of the religion which you advocate; customs and associations which plead an almost unlimited antiquity; pride, avarice, and sensuality, which are inherent in fallen nature; ignorance, sloth and deceit, which to human agency are invincible; and all these powerful opponents in alliance with the powers of darkness, whose intervention is never wanting when the truth as it is in Christ is to be withstood, and its doctrines and its precepts neutralized. How formidable do these obstacles appear when duly considered! Yet there is no reason for either discouragement or despair. The cause in which you have embarked is the cause of God. Greater is He who is for you, than all they who are against you.

But, brethren, as it is by the intervention of the appointed system of means that God will destroy idolatry, change the hearts of the heathen, and bring them into the fold of Christ, with what holy diligence ought you, by prayer and study, to seek to be duly qualified for your great work, as workmen who need not be ashamed! The knowledge of the language of the people whose conversion you seek is essential to your success; for the better you are acquainted with it, and the more correctly and fluently you speak it, the more respect and attention will be given to your message. To that one language bend your most earnest attention until you have made it your own; nor suffer your minds to be drawn away by others, or by the pride of being thought learned, or the vanity of knowing many languages. The possession of any one of the languages of India, in such a degree of perfection as is desirable, will usually cost exertion enough; and when obtained, will give you access to millions of souls-scope enough for your best exertions.