ON THE TIDES IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the beginning to the end of the year. The rise and fall also are very inconsiderable, averaging from twelve to eighteen inches. The islands (as you, my friend, well know) are surrounded by that admirably adapted and invulnerable barrier, which we designate the reef. When strong winds prevail, they throw what is termed a heavy surf over the reef: this occasions a slight additional rise on that part of the shore which may be exposed to its effects. In addition to this, there is another rather singular circumstance connected with the rise of the sea on the Tahitian and Georgian islands. On the south-west, and as far as the north-west sides of the islands, there are annually what are termed heavy seas, rolling in whether the winds prevail that way or not. These were so destructive to our original settlement (that settlement we occupied when you were with us in 1822 and 1823) at Raiatea, that we were obliged to abandon it; for no sooner had we got our roads and bridges in good order, than by these heavy seas' all the effect of our labour was destroyed. You doubtless recollect our house; it was about five feet above the high water mark, and it stood about twenty yards from the beach. One calm night we were awakened about twelve o'clock; the strong fence in front of the house being driven down with a frightful crash by the violence of the waves; they dashed also against the house itself, but did no damage except wetting the mats and setting some of the furniture in motion. There are in general from three to five high seas in the season, which are usually of about three days' continuance. These are the only important things I have to mention in answer to your inquiries: 1st. The regularity of the ebb and flow, without being influenced, as in other places, by the moon; 2nd. The regularity of the rise and fall, and the smallness of that rise; 3rd. The annual high seas on the southwest and north-west sides of the islands, while the north, the east, and the south-east are entirely free, except when a gale of wind happens to blow from those quarters. I believe in most of the remaining islands the tides are affected by the moon, as in other parts of the world. In the Austral groups about 350 miles to the southward, and in the same parallel of longitude;-in the Hervey Islands group, about 600 miles south-west of Tahiti, consisting of the islands of Mauti, Matiaro, Atui, Maquaia, Rorotonga, and Aitutaki, the tides are affected by the moon, and rise above four feet. At the Navigators' Islands and the Figii Islands the tides are as in other places, regulated by the moon; so that the phenomena of the Tahitian Islands are rendered ix still more remarkable if they exist only there. There are other groups of islands, as the Sandwich Islands, &c., with which I am unacquainted, but which you have visited, and which are, I suppose, influenced by the moon," The Rev. Mr. Darling, our respected Missionary, who has been long residing at Bunaauia, (Burder's Point), on the west side of Tahiti, answers my questions respecting the tides there as follows: The "You are correct in what you say about the tides in these islands; they are always at the same times-high water at mid-day and midnight-low water at six o'clock in the morning, and again at six o'clock in the evening. natives can always tell when it is midnight, as they have no watches, by going to the seashore. This regular state of the tides I have observed to be at all places I have visited the same." These important and decisive testimonies to the actual phenomena of the tides, as we found them, and as they truly exist, you will please to attach to the introduction of the present corrected Edition of our Voyages and Travels. I am always, Most faithfully, your attached friend, London, Oct. 24, 1840. Postscript.-Among other inaccuracies of statements, which a professional gentleman ought not to have hazarded, Kotzebue says, vol. i. p. 215, "The plan of Matavai and the bay which bounds it on the north-east, completed by us with the utmost care from trigonometrical surveys, is attached to this volume, and renders any further description of the coast it embraces unnecessary." Yet has this navigator placed Port Pape-ete on the east side of Point Venus, and close to the latter, where there is no harbour, whereas Pape-ete is actually from eight to nine miles to the westward of Point Venus; as every one having visited Tahiti knows or ought to know. This blunder is about on a par in contradiction to fact with his assertion, that there is in Matavai Bay but one ebb and one full tide, in twenty-four hours! though every man, woman, and child on the island knows familiarly, that there are two full and two ebb tides, the former at noon and midnight, the latter at six o'clock in the morning, and again at the same hour in the evening; as is most satisfactorily shown in the foregoing letters from Missionaries long resident in the various islands. Kotzebue says, vol. i. p. 125, "Here are neither ants nor musquitoes." Now there are in Tahiti myriads of both, as well as in all the other Society and Georgian Islands. TO MY FRIEND, GEORGE BENNET, ESQ., Of Sheffield, on his intended Voyage to Tahiti, and other Islands of the South Sea, where Christianity had been recently established. Go, take the wings of morn, And fly beyond the utmost sea; Thou shalt not feel thyself forlorn, Thy God is still with thee; And where his spirit bids thee dwell, There, and there only, thou art well. Forsake thy native land, Kindred, and friends, and pleasant home; O'er many a rude barbarian strand In exile though thou roam, Walk there with God, and thou shalt find, Double for all thy faith resign'd. Launch boldly on the surge, And in a light and fragile bark Thy path through flood and tempest urge, Like Noah in the ark; Then tread like him, a new world's shore, Thine altar build, and God adore. Leave our Jerusalem, Whom pagan gloom oppress'd; Till bright, though late, around their isles, Amidst that dawn, from far, And tell them, while they hail the sight, Point where his hovering rays The Sun of Righteousness, who brings Nor thou disdain to teach Till warriors fling their arms aside, THE REV. Train them, by patient toil, To rule the waves, subdue the ground, With harvest-trophies crown'd, Thus, then, in peace depart, That will not let thee go: Though the broad world, between Though day and night to thee be changed, Yet one in soul, and one In faith, and hope, and purpose yet, Those from whose eyes his orb retires, When tropic gloom returns, Mark what new stars their vigils keep, The ship of Heaven-the patriarch's dove- While these enchant thine eye Of higher glories talk'd, Those hours, those walks, are past; Sheffield, March 10, 1821. *The Cross and other Southern Constellations. DANIEL TYER MAN. The following Inscription for a Tablet, intended to be placed in the Chapel, where he had ministered for seventeen years, at Newport, in the Isle of Wight, previous to his setting out with Mr. Bennet, on their Missionary Visitation, was written at the request of some Members of the late Mr. Tyerman's Church and Congregation. His last intelligible words were, "The Covenant of Grace!" and, with this hope in his mind, he died in the capital of Madagascar, after a brief illness, on the 30th of July, 1828. "The covenant of grace" shall stand, When heaven and earth depart; On this he laid his dying hand And clasp'd it to his heart. In a strange land, when sudden death J. M. xi CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The Tuscan sails with the Missionaries on board, May 2, 1821-Novelty of Nautical Arrangements-Whaler's Anecdote -Drop down the Channel -Bay of Biscay Colour of the Water- Cape Finisterre-Luminous Appearances in Ship's Track-Charnel House at Madeira-North-east Trade Wind - Sucking Fish-Cross the Tropic of CancerFlying Fishes-The Black Whale-The Southern Cross Whit Monday — A Shark caught-Exploit of a TahitianCrossing the Line-Booby-birds-Magellan Clouds-Animals of the DeepSpermaceti Whale-Marine Rainbows Commemoration of the sailing of the Ship Duff, with the first Missionaries to the South Seas Mollymauks Agitated Sea-scene-A Storm-Imminent Peril and great Deliverance-Tropic of Capricorn-The "Prickly Heat"-The Gannet-War Hawk-Lunar InfluenceDangerous Archipelago-A Whale struck -The Tropic Bird-Planet VenusLunar Rainbow-Water-spouts - Sailors' Dreams - A Booby-bird takenRetrospective Reflections- Indications of Land-An unknown Island-Resolution, Doubtful, Tuscan, Bernie, Chain, and other Islands-Arrival at Tahiti CHAPTER III. Pomare's Residence-Account of a League of Pacification among the NativesStrangers in Tahiti-Upuparu's House Cocoa-nut Water Exotic TreesDress of Natives-St. Luke's Gospel transcribed by Pomare-Visit to Papeete-Preparations for the Sabbath-Singular Consequence of a Mistake in Captain Wilson's Sea-reckoning First Sabbath at Matavai Prevalence of Infanticide in former times Canoe Page 1 9 scene Page 16 23 Project of a Cotton mill-Shells, &c.Magnificent natural Panorama-NightBanns of Marriage · Palma Christi and other plants-Native Martyrs -Great Marae-Arabu, chief of Eimeo -Cowries, &c.-Roman Catholic Missionary-Trials of the first Preachers of the Gospel here-Roguery of the Islanders formerly-Their present character contrasted-Idolatrous Priests-Second Interview with Pomare - Tatooing — Mosquitoes-Return to Tahiti-Housekeeping-Native Manners-Barter Trade 30 CHAPTER VI. Fishing by Torch-light-Valley of Matavai CHAPTER VII. |