and a two pointed beard; and on his monument in Weftminster Abbey, a very long beard. The fame king, in our common prints of him, is generally pictured with a fort of hat on; but as hats are a deal more modern, wherever I fee him drawn with a hat on, I conclude that picture to be a counterfeit, And indeed it may be quef tioned, whether there are any pictures of any of our kings painted before his time now extant. Philippa, confort to this king, according to her monument at Weftminster, wore a pretty fort of network cawl over her hair, with a long end of the fame hanging down each ear.

In this reign I conceive it was that history fays, "the Commons were befotted in excess of apparel, going fome in -wide furcoats reaching to their loins; fome in a garment reaching to their heels, clofe before, and ftrutting out on both fides, fo that on the back they make men feem women, and this they call by a ridi. culous name gown. Their hoods are little, tied under the chin, and buttoned like the women's, but fet with gold, filver, and precious ftones. Their lerripippes reach to their heels, all jagged. They have another weed of filk, which they call pal tocks, without any breeches. Their gir dles are of gold and filver; their fhoes and pattens inouted, and piked above a finger long, crooking upwards, and faftened to the knees with chains of gold or filver."

"In 1369 they began to ufe caps of divers colours, efpecially red, with coftly linings; and in 1372 they firft began to wanton it in a new round curtail weed called a cloak, in Latin Armclaufa (q. Armiclaufa), as only covering the thoulders."

But this cloak, as I take it, was no more than a monk's hood, or cowl. Richard II, in his picture in Westminster Abbey, is drawn with fhort curling hair and a fmall curling two-pointed beard, Queen Anne, Richard II.'s confort, (who first taught the English women to ride on fide-faddles, who heretofore rid aftride), brought in high-bead attire, piked with horns, and long trained gowns. Their high heads had fometimes one point fometimes two, fhaped like fugar-loaves; to which they had a fort of streamers fattened, which wantoned and hung down behind, and, turning up again, were tied to their girdles. Henry IV. wore long hair, whifkers, and a double pointed beard; in his time the long pocketed filceve was much in vogue. Henry V.

wore much the fame in this reign the fhoes were remarkably broad, which Camden speaking of, fays, "Not many years after, it was proclaimed, that no man thould have his fhoes broader at the toes than fix inches. And women trimmed themselves with foxes tails under their garments, as they do now with French farthingals; and men with abfurd fhort garments *. Henry VI. Edward IV. Richard III. and Henry VII. wore their hair moderately long, no whiskers or beard. Henry VIII. had fhort cropt hair, large whiskers, and a fhort curled beard, his gown furred, the upper parts of his fleeves bowed out with whalebone, and open from his shoulders to his wrists, and there buttoned with diamonds; about his neck and wrifts fhort ruffes. Queen Mary wore a clofe head-dress, with a broad flat long end or train hanging down behind; ftrait fleeves down to her wrist ; there and on her neck a narrow ruffle. On the 27th of May 1555 (2. Queen Mary) Sir William Cecil, being then at Calais, bought, as appears by his MS. Diary, three hats for his children. Thefe are the firft hats I have yet read of; and it should feem at their first coming in they were more worn by children than men, who yet kept to caps.

Queen Elizabeth wore no head-drefs, but her own or falfe hair in great plenty, extravagantly frizzled and curled; a bob or jewel dropt on her forehead; a huge laced double ruff, long piked ftays, a hoop petticoat, extended like a go-cart; her petticoats prodigious tull; her fleeves barrelled and hooped from the shoulders to the elbows, and again from the elbows to the wrifts. In one picture of her, he is drawn as above, with five bobs, one on her forehead, one above each ear, and one at each ear. This Queen is faid to have been the first perfon in England who wore ftockings: before her time, both men and women wore hofe, that is breeches, or drawers, and ftockings all of one piece of cloth. Sir Phi

This fashion appears to have continued unto the reign of Edward IV. By the Stat. 22. of that Prince, 1482, c. I. (Pickering's Edition, Vol. III. p. 455.) it is enacted, "That no manner of perfon under the estate of a Lord fhall wear from the faid Feaft any gown or mantle unless it be of fuch length, that he being upright it fnall-(the indelicacy of our ancestors obliges us to refer to the ftatute)upon pain to forfeit to our Sovereign Lord the King at every default twenty fhillings. It would be difficult to affign a reafon for this fingular privilege of the Peerage. EDITOR.

lip Sidney, one of her favourites, wore a huge high collar, ftiffened with whale bone; a very broad ftiff laced ruff; his doublet (body and fleeves) bombafted or barrelled, and pinked and flashed all over, fmall oblong buttons, and a loofe long cloak. The custom of men fitting uncovered in the church is certainly ve ry decent, but not very ancient. Dr Cox, Bishop of Ely, died 1581, whofe fu neral proceffion I have feen an admirable old drawing of; as likewife of the affem bly fitting in the choir to hear the funeral fermon, all covered, and having their bonnets on. John Fox the Martyrologift who died in 1587, when an old man (as appears by his picture) wore a ftrait cap, covering his head and ears, and over that a deepish-crowned shallow-brimmed flouched hat. This is the firft hat I have yet obferved in any picture. Hats being thus come in, men began then to fit uncovered in the church, as I take it; for as hats look not fo well on men's heads in places of public worship as hoods or bonnets, (the former wear), this might probably be the firft occafion of their doing fo.

James I. wore fhort hair, large whifkers, and a fhort beard; alfo a ruff and ruff ruffles. In 1612 (10. Jac. 1.) Mr Hawley of Gray's-inn coming to court one day, Maxwell a Scotfman led him out of the room by a black string which he wore in his ear, a fashion then much in ufe; but this had like to have caufed warm blood, had not the king made up the quarrel. Prince Henry, eldest fon of James I. wore fhort hair, fillet ted and combed upward, short barrelled breeches, and filk thistles or carnations at the tie of his fhoes. The young Lord Harrington, this prince's contemporary, is painted in the fame manner, with the addition of ear-drops, a double ruff, and barrelled doublet.

The great tub farthingal was much worn in this reign; the famous Countefs of Effex is pictured in a monftrous hoop of this fort. In conformity to the ladies of that age, the gentlemen fell into the ridiculous fashion of trunk hofe, an affectation of the fame kind, and carried to fo great a height by ftuffing them out, that they might more properly have been called the farthingal breeches*.

The extravagance in this article of drefs will appear from the following extract from Commenter. Hieron. Woltu in Demofthenem, p. 1132. 6. Edit. Francof. 1604. "Nofrates quidem milites patrum noftrorum me.

Charles I. wore long hair, particularly one lock longer than the reft, hanging no the left fide †, large whiskers, a piked beard, a ruff, thoe-rofes, and falling band. His Queen wore a ruff ftanding on each fide and behind, but her bofom open. Sir Francis Bacon, who died in 1626, in his fine monument at St Alban's is reprefented with monarous fhoe-rofes and great bombaft paned hofe, reaching to the knees. About 1641, the forked fhoes came into fashion, almost as long again as the feet, not lefs an impediment to the action of the foot than to reverential devotion, for our boots and fhoes were fo long fnouted, we could hardly kneel. But as a fhort foot was foon thought to be more fashionable, full as much art becarne necessary to give it as fhort an appearance as poffible. About 1650 both men and women had the whim of bringing down the hair of their heads to cover their foreheads, fo as to meet their eyebrows. In 1652 John Owen, Dean of Chrift Church and ViceChancellor of Oxford, went in querpo, like a young fcholar, with powdered hair, his band-ftrings with very large taffels, a large fet of ribbands at his knees, with tags at the ends of them; Spanish leather boots with large lawn tops, and his hat moftly cocked. After the close-stool pan fort of hat, which had now been many years in wear, came in the fugar loaf or high-crowned hat; thefe, though mightily affected by hoth fexes, were fo very incommodious, as that, every puff of wind blowing them off, they required the almoft conftant employment of one hand to fecure them. Charles II. in 1660 appears to have worn a large thick cravat with taffels, a short doublet, large ruffles, short boots with great tops, a very short cloak, and long hair (one moria, eas femorum partes quæ a pudendis ad genua pertinent, nudos habuerunt. Nunc contra, eafdem ulnis panni aut ferici novem et nonaginta (centum enim brevior eft numerus) folent infarcire; credo ut id fuppleant quod patribus et avis defecit. O infaniem fingularem! quam tamen homines (fi Diis placet) ftudiofi non imitari fed vincere ftudent. O fecula! O mores! O difciplinam academiarum! fed quid ilie poffunt fine eorum authoritate, qui, cum prohibere tala et podent et deberent, ipfi faciunt." Whoever would be further informed about Farthingall hofe, or breeches, may confult Bulwer's Artificial Changling, printed 1653.

Frynne had a fpite against this lock, and therefore wrote, The Unloveliucfs of Love Locks. 4to. 1628

lock

lock on the right fide longer than ordina ry), all pulled forward, and divided like a long wig on each fide of his face: foon after he wore a pertiwig.

There is no end of the whims, vagaries, and fancies in drefs which men and wo men have run into. Whole volumes might be wrote on the fubject. However, thefe rude notes may ferve as a sketch of the former times.

Old fables tell us of one Epimenides, who after a fleep of fifty years awaked with amazement, finding a new world eve ry where both of men and fashions. Let this fleep go (as it well may) for a fabulous invention, the effects of it, his amazement, I am fure, might have been credible enough though the fleep had been thorter by many years. In fome countries, if men fhould but put on thofe clothes which they left off but four or five years before, and use those fashions which were then in ufe, they would feem even to themselves ridiculous, and unto many little lefs than monftrous.

Europ. Mag.

Extras from the Parish Regifler of Lanmaes,

in the county of Glamorgan.

"VAN YORATH, buried a Saterdaye, the xvii (day of the month not very legible) day of July, anno Doni 1621, et anno regni regis vicefimo primo. annoq; ætatis circa 180. He was a fouldier in the fight of Bofwoorthe, and lived at Lantwit Major *, and he lived much by fishing."

JOHN SHERREY, was buried the viith daye of December, anno Dom. 1623, age Ic2."

In another place, the fame perfon is thus registered in Latin:

"JOHANNES SHERREY, fepultus fuit feptimo die Decembris, anno Domini 1624. rat. circa 104."

"ELIZABETH YEORATH †, the wife of Edmund Thomas, was buried the 13th day February, in the year of cur Lord God 1688, age 177."

There are other inftances of longe. vity in the fame regifter. This parith, and the neighbourhood for many miles around, have afforded many remarkable inflances of very great age within the memory of many living. In the belfry at Lantwit Major there is an intcription on a blue marble flab, with the age 129, * Lantwit Major is almost a mile diftant, weftward, of Lanmaes.

† An inftance, feemingly, of longevity be ing hereditary.

In

the name Matthew Vafs The adjoining parish, to the North, of Lifworney, has feveral infcriptions with ages of 100. the parish of St Donnats, joining Weft. ward, there is now living one John Harry, who is upwards of 112 years of age.

The whole Vale of Glamorgan affords very numerous inftances of longevity. It is an open country, dry foil on a lime. ftone bottom, fertile, lies along the Brif tol channel, the coaft rocky, no marshes, fheltered to the North and North east by a chain of mountains at about fifteen miles diftance. The air is very clear and temperate. Lantwit Major (a town) is in latitude 51° 24'; but, what feemingly contributes molt to the health and frequent long life of the inhabitants, is their fimple diet, confifting of good wheat bread, milk, cheefe, butter, vegetables, and their drink nothing but water in general; many families never eat any animal food above once a week, feldom or never ufe auy malt liquors, and spirituous liquors are almost unknown except to fome of the richer inhabitants. thatched, and are very frequently whiteThe cottages are well built of stone, and wafhed with new ftone-lime within and without. Cleanly habits prevail, and flan.. nel is generally worn next the body. The fea air from the fouth is fupposed to contribute much to health. Mi Howard, in one of his publications (I remember) highly recommends white-wafhing with new ftone-lime, as one of the very best prefervatives against infection, and of health. Gent. Mag.

I

· ED. WILLIAMS.

Remedy for CORNS.

SIR, Bpp. Wearmouth, Feb. 18. Have been tormented with corns for many years, lately, by tight shoes, had an addition of them. Employing my fervant to cut them, he took a needle (after cutting off the hard fkin, fo as to ice the corn); by little and little pulled them quite up by the root, giving little pain, fome leaving a hole two tenths of an inch deep; fome, after railing them, would draw up in a fpiral manner, like a cork-fcrew; fome broke, but at a fecond or third attempt, got out the whole. I have not now one left, nor no return, for more than twelve months paft. Some were upwards of twenty years ftanding. I had fome on the top of my toes, others infide, one on the fole of my foot, and one back part of my beel.

On

On the Qualities and Effects of the Particular Subftances which are used as Food. Continued from p. $4.

Egetables, having the quality of being in general lefs nutritive than animal food, are well fitted to form the whole or chief part of the diet in certain conftitutions.

There are perfons who poffefs excellent organs of digeftion, fecrete from the food a great deal of chyle, which is formed into blood, and who do not use fuch exercise as is fufficient to wafte a quantity of blood equal to that which is formed. In confequence of this ine quality between the formation and waste of the blood, the fluids must accumulate, and the veffels become too full.

Fat is then fecreted, in order to relieve the loaded blood veffels. But if the fame circumftances continue, the fat muft conftantly increase, and become at length an oppreffive load; and the plethoric diftention of the veffels endangers life, from hemorrhages, inflammations, and other diseases.

To correct this kind of constitution, a vegetable diet ought to be employed; and when accompanied with fufficient exercife, cannot fail of fuccefs. It is vain to expect to remove it by purgatives and bleedings. Thefe means only produce temporary relief.

Long courfes of powerful medicines are dangerous; and cannot prevent the return of the plethoric state, except by weakening or ruining the organs of digeftion.

A vegetable diet is an innocent and effectual remedy.

As fish are the leaft nourishing genus of animals, they ufually enter as part of the vegetable regimen. The fat fish, however, are to be excepted, and likewife rich fauces. Milk, for the fame reason, although an animal fubftance, is always admitted into the vegetable diet.

To conform to fuch a regimen is at firft irkfome; habit however makes it become eafy, and as agreeable as the more ufual food. As fudden changes in the mode of life are fometimes dangerous, the vegetable diet ought to be introduced gradually; and, except in extreme cafes, it need not be made the fole, but the chief species of aliment.

As the vegetable diet is proper in one kind of conftitution, a meat diet is preferable for those of an oppofite habit of Vol. LV. February 1793.

body. Namely, perfons who are ema

ciated, pale, and feeble, who have weak and delicate ftomachs, and are fubject to acidities or flatulency.

The appetite of perfons of this defcription is never great, many of them hardly ever feel the fenfation of hunger; but after fafting fome time, grow weak and faint. As the quantity of food which they are able to fwallow is always fmall, it ought to be both nourishing and cafily digefted.

Moft vegetables which are light of digeftion give little nourishment, and fat meats, although extremely nutritive, are heavy. Both these species of aliments are therefore improper; the leaner meats ought to be the principal part of the diet, and fuch vegetables, and vegetable juices, as are at the fame time light and nourishing.

Another quality of vegetable aliments is that of being cooling, or less stimulant than animal food.

From this circumftance they are extremely proper in inflammatory complaints, and in a variety of diseases of excitement. There is good reafon to believe that this cooling quality principally proceeds from the acid which is in mot vegetable productions; because thofe vegetables which are most acid are most cooling.

Vegetables are likewife generally confidered as acefcent and flatulent. As these qualities, however, are never perceived by people of vigorous ftomachs, the fault feems to lie in the perfon, rather than in the aliment. So that acidity and flatulency may be reasonably imputed to dif eafe in the ftomach and bowels, and to digeftion being carried on in a difturbed and imperfect manner.

Having taken notice of thefe general qualities, I fhall next proceed to confider a few of thofe vegetable substances which are chiefly employed as food; and firft, of bread.

This forms by far the greater part of the vegetable food, and is generally made of wheat. Wheat, however, is not a vegetable in a natural ftate, but, like almoft all those used by men, has been enlarged and improved by culture. The feed of the plant alone is alimentary, which is ground, fifted, fermented, and baked, in order to form bread. These proceffes are too generally known to require defcription.

It is thought by many, that fermentaI tion