I found that it would be impracticable for me izes them, in case the post-horses are employed to transport the books, papers, press, etc., be- in the transportation of the mail, to demand longing to the consulate, by the overland route, other horses from the peasants of the villages. a distance of some ten thousand versts, a thou- The system seems to work well, and is worthy sand of which must be traversed by pack ani- of consideration to our Government in case a mals, and six thousand by wagon or sleigh. I post-road be established from our Western fronttherefore shipped them from Cronstadt to the ier to California. Amoor by a Russian man-of-war, which, together with a fleet of five or six sail, including a steamer, were expected to reach the Amoor on the opening of the navigation in the spring. The flag, however, I kept with me, as I was to have the honor to unfurl the first stars and stripes ever seen in that region. Besides myself there was but a single transient American in this city, with which our trade ought to amount to millions of dollars, and where our merchants and manufactures ought long ago to have established themselves. I endeavored to make the best use of my time by gaining as much information as possible with respect to the country which I proposed to visit.

At last, after my patience had been nearly exhausted, I found myself in possession of a passport, or certificate, giving me the sanction of the Emperor to visit the Eastern Ocean across the empire of Russia.

On the 3d of December, having prepared myself well for the journey, I set out from Moscow under protection of an officer of the Governor's staff, but in separate sleighs, and proceeded to Irkoutsk. The officer accompanied me as far as Nijne Novgorod, and from thence I had the company of a gentleman in the Government service.

We traveled by post, a system unknown in the United States; but with which I have had an opportunity of making myself thoroughly acquainted, having "posted" in a sleigh a distance of over five thousand versts, or three thousand three hundred miles, a verst being two-thirds of a mile. This system of posting was originally established by the Government for military purposes, then for the mail service, and eventually for the use of travelers. From Moscow to Irkoutsk there are two hundred and ten stations, at which six troykahs of eighteen horses are contracted for by the Government to carry the mail twice a week, at three hundred rubles two hundred and twenty-five dollars -each troykah per year. The stations were originally built by Government, and a postmaster appointed to reside in each. This arrangement compels the contractors to furnish the mail with the necessary horses and vehicles; the horses, at all other times (with the exception of one troykah, which must always remain for the dispatch of Government couriers), are at the command of travelers who carry what is called a padaroshna, or order by the Government on the postmasters to furnish a certain number of horses. For this padaroshna the Government receives, when delivered to you, one-half of a kopeck a verst. This order, besides being an absolute command on the postmaster to furnish the horses required, author

The distance from Moscow to Irkutsk is 5138 verts, or 3426 miles. This is accomplished, under ordinary circumstances, in from twentyfive to thirty days, and by Government couriers in from fifteen to twenty days. There are two hundred and ten stations or changes of horsesan average of twenty-five versts to the station; that is, each relay of horses has to run sixteen and two-thirds miles.

The regulations posted in the stations give the passengers the right to travel eight versts per hour in autumn, twelve in winter, and ten in summer. This rate of speed they have a right to enforce. The couriers make all the speed that the horses are capable of, and as many as twenty-eight horses have been driven to death in a single journey, the Government paying a stipulated price of twenty-five rubles each for the dead horses.

One of the most singular features in the route from Moscow to Irkoutsk, is the fact that over such an immense extent of country there are not half a dozen times when the change of horses does not take place in a city. Between the two cities of Irkoutsk and Moscow I certainly passed through five hundred cities and villages. This, of course, has been the work of time and a strong Government, because villages are made by Imperial command.

In performing the journey I employed over seven hundred horses, because I frequently had four and sometimes five to my sleigh. This, with the two hundred and ten drivers, and fifteen additional postillions, cost me about eight cents a mile.

I am not the least disappointed in my voyage (I transcribe from my notes, written at Irkoutsk); on the contrary, probably more will come out of it than I had anticipated. But being a pioneer in these wilds, I had to meet with as many difficulties as a Western man who has blazed the first trail in a new country. Irkoutsk lies on the Angara, about sixty versts from its source in Lake Baikal. It is the seat of Government for Eastern Siberia, and contains about eighteen thousand inhabitants, with many churches and public buildings, a theatre, club-house, baths, schools, and seminaries, magazines, markets, and bazars. Its situation is well chosen; it is well built, is the seat of wealth, of fashion, of commerce for Eastern Siberia; and, though last not least, of beautiful women. The ladies of Irkoutsk will indeed compare favorably with those of any European city. In fact I have some intention (if I could find one willing) of taking one with me to the Amoor, and so on to California, just to give our people some idea of the productions of this extraordinary country.

The Angara is the only outlet to the waters

of Baikal. This lake is 700 versts long by 70 | burg. The party consisted of some twenty merwide. The rivers emptying into it drain a great chants and other invited guests. extent of country, their sources being in that chain of mountains which divide the waters of the Pacific from those of the Frozen Ocean. They penetrate far into the regions of Mongolia, and are only separated from the waters of the Hoang-ho, the great northern river of China, by the desert of Cobi.

When I first saw the lake it was frozen over, and I crossed upon the ice. It is here fifty-five versts wide, and I traversed that distance in three hours with one set of four horses to my sleigh, stopping but twice, and then only for a few moments; once to beat down the ice where it had burst and thrown up a ridge several feet high, and again to brush the frost and ice from the noses of our puffing horses.

I rode from Irkoutsk to Kiachta, 550 versts, in about forty-eight hours. After crossing Lake Baikal the most of the way was on the frozen surface of the Selenga, with changes of posthorses about every thirty versts.

In company with the Commissioner, in a vehicle escorted by a troop of Cossacks, we passed out of the southern gate of Kiachta over the neutral ground to the northern gate of Maimattschin. Here we were received by a Mongol guard of honor, and, preceded by a band of music, entered the principal street on our way to the hall of entertainment. The houses are well built, generally around a court, mostly of one story, and entered through a gateway or port. The streets are narrow-say fifteen feet in width-but very clean, and covered with a kind of cement for pavement. They were crowded with Chinese and Mongol faces, eager to get a sight of the outside barbarians.

Arriving at the entrance of the court leading to the residence of the Zargotstschey, we alighted from our carriage, and, amidst the squeaking of fiddles, the rattle of drums, and the clang of gongs, entered, through corridors, into the dining-hall, or "room of feasts." Here we found the chief, a tall old man of the Mantchoo race, who received us with great cordiality. We were soon seated, and tea being served, with confectionery, the feast commenced.

I sat next but one to the chief, on his right hand. Wine being served, he motioned us to drink. A fiery kind of spirit was also served in small cups. The number of the dishes, or rather bowls, was absolutely beyond computation. Each guest was furnished with a saucer half filled with a kind of soy, or diluted vinegar, into which the delicious morsels taken from the aforesaid bowls by the little soup-ladle, or

Kiachta and Maimattschin, the frontier towns of Russia and China, are built in a valley flanked by mountains, and only separated by an open space of ground a rifle shot over, common to both; but each city has a gate and a wooden stockade, more to prevent smuggling than for defense. The Chinese have also built a screen outside their wall before the northern gate, looking into Kiachta, in order to prevent outsiders from observing what they are about. A few curious-looking Mongol Tartars do the military honors of the city on their side, while the universal Cossack, with a few Russian bayonets and lances, do that of Kiachta. A hun-chop-sticks, at the side of his saucer, were to be dred Mississippi rifles would take both places; but Russia, if necessary, could soon concentrate a very respectable force upon this point from the adjacent country.

The Mongols are said to be the best fighting people of these Tartar tribes, though now subject to the Mantchoo race, who govern China. These are the people whom Genghis Khan and his successors led on to devastation and conquest for hundreds of years, until the growing power of Russia bore back upon them the returning wave of successful warfare and conquest, and from marauding hordes whipped them into subjection and hemmed them into comparatively narrow limits. In fact, Russia is the only power that has succeeded in reducing the Tartar race to peaceful pursuits, and she has succeeded most admirably.

The Chinese population of Maimattschin is some three thousand men. No women are allowed to reside here. The Mongol population of the suburbs is considerable. I had the good fortune while at this place to witness the "Feast of Lanterns," the "White Moon" of the Chinese. This occurred on the 9th of February. I was invited by the Russian Commissioner of the Frontier to dine with the Zargotstschey Pahloyah, the Governor of the city, and was introduced as a Russian merchant from St. Peters

dipped; the chief frequently selecting with his own chops dainty morsels, which he conveyed to my now overflowing saucer in the most patronizing and gracious manner.

After these innumerable courses the table was cleared, when, from the upper end of the room, came attendants bearing tables on which were several whole pigs, roasted in the most approved style, and approaching quite to the front of the chief, exhibited to the guests this crowning glory of the feast, all smoking hot. The chief bowed approvingly to the cook, and the pigs disappeared by a side-door. Then came clean saucers and more soy, and soon followed wellfilled bowls of the aforesaid pigs, all finely cut into thin strips, with pieces of the crisped skin broken into small squares.

Finally, small bowls of plain boiled rice, perfectly dry, were served; and the feast closed, in honor of the Russian guests, with sparkling Champagne.

A few minutes before we sat down to dinner we were invited into the court in front of the hall to witness the performance of a band of players, among whom were several men dressed as women, in a native Mongol dance. During the dinner the band of musicians were piping their music and performing their antics for the gratification of the crowd on the outside.

After Champagne was freely drunk the chief | cups of tea and hot Chinese wine was absoluteinvited the company to visit the theatre. This ly necessary, in order to satisfy the pressing inwe did on foot; and here was a scene worthy vitations of the various hosts, who frequently the pencil. The chief, preceded by a few Mon- added Madeira and Champagne. gol guards to clear the way of the crowding mul- At the entrance of each establishment the titude, conducted us to an open pavilion in front musicians ranged themselves in open order, of the theatre, where we were seated on wood-piping us into each house, and during the reen benches around a table. The theatre is sim- past continued their antics and music for the ply a stage open in front and on the sides, with amusement of the crowd without. At our exit screens for the performers to retire behind. The they took up the line of march, the lanternaudience stand in the open air. The players bearers resumed their station, and on we went, were already in the midst of some grand scene amidst fire-works, fire-crackers, plays, and lanwhen we arrived. The Mongol guards cleared terns, to the next feast, and so on to the end. and kept free a space in front of the chief's box. Tea, confectionery, and dried fruit were served to us during the performance. The crowd of spectators swayed to and fro like the surges of the ocean. The united breath of the multitude ascended into the cold air like steam from a boiling caldron.

We next visited the great pagoda. By this time night had set in, and the illumination by lanterns had commenced in good earnest. Passing through a court immediately in front of the theatre, we were conducted by the Zargotstschey into the temple. On tables in front of the different idols a great variety of dishes were spread, with whole carcasses of sheep, as a repast for the gods. At night these dishes are taken and caten by the priests in the recesses of the temple. The sheep, I suppose, go the way of all flesh, and serve for the priests' dinner next day.

From the temple we returned to the diningroom, where a party of Russian ladies from Kiachta and Irkoutsk had been invited to meet us to take tea, and then partake with us of the "feast of the lanterns." They soon arrived. Tea, confectionery, and fruits were served. Some children present were loaded with sweet things by the good-hearted old chief.

We were now very soon on our way to see and partake of the feast of the lanterns. But how shall I describe the indescribable? Led on by the Zargotstschey, preceded by the whole band of musicians, actors, and mountebanks, with two special lantern-bearers carrying great round lanterns immediately in front of the chief, and followed and pressed on all sides by a motley crowd of real live Tartars, we commenced the promenade of the evening.

The concluding feast was near the gate. The Zargotstschey and the host of the feast bid us good-night. We reached our vehicle at the outer port, the Mongol guard and music conducting us.

Here the commissioner's Cossack guard were already mounted, waiting to conduct us, and, amidst the shouts of the crowd, we crossed the "neutral ground" and passed the gate of Kiachta, put the commissioner down at his residence, and reached my lodgings, three versts distant, all the better for the ride in a clear frosty night, which helped much to counteract the effects of the various Chinese potations.

From Kiachta I returned to Irkoutsk, where I remained until March 9, 1857, when, accompanied by Mr. Gourieff, a Russian officer, private Secretary to General Mouravieff, we set out for Chetah. Crossing Lake Baikal on the ice, we reached Verchnödinsk the following day. Here we overtook General Korsackoff, Governor of the Province of Trans-Baikal, to whom the merchants of the place were giving a dinner. We were invited to it upon our ar

rival.

We did not go on direct to Chetah, but at 11 P.M. set out for Petrofsky iron-works, one hundred and eighty versts to the southeast, at the foot of the Stanovey mountains. We arrived there the following day, and were kindly received by the superintendent, who gave me every facility to inspect the works. It is a convict establishment, with a very considerable village attached, which has grown up from liberated convicts and the settlement of peasants. The ore is of good quality and is smelted with charcoal, though mineral coal is found in the vicinity in great abundance. The smaller castings and bar-iron looked well, though the superintendent said that the best bars had all been sent to market. Some machinery has also been produced here, and an attempt has been made Thus led on, pressed by the crowd, to the to manufacture steam-engines and boilers; but tune of this most unmusical Mongol music, we owing to the want of necessary appliances and proceeded through one of the principal streets machine-shops, the work looks rough and imto the residence of the first merchant we were perfect. This is to be remedied, as there is to "feast ;" and this was to be repeated eight now erected the frame-work of an iron building times in different parts of the city at as many which, when completed, is to contain all the different establishments. But it will not do to modern appliances for the constructing of steamdescribe the eight suppers, or feasts; they were engines and other machinery. These mines but little removed in style or fashion from the were first opened and worked in the reign of dinner. Of course, eating was out of the ques-Peter the Great, whence the name. They were tion; but tasting and drinking innumerable neglected for some years immediately preceding

The streets were beautifully ornamented with colored paper suspended from the roofs of the buildings on cords, and lanterns of every imaginable size, shape, and color lighted the streets and illuminated the buildings and temples.

the administration of affairs in Siberia by General Mouravieff; but since his appointment as Governor-General of Eastern Siberia, he has caused much improvement and reform in all branches of industry.

We departed on the 13th, at 11 P.M., returning by way of Verchnödinsk, took the road toward Chetah in an easterly direction, crossing the Stanovey mountains, which divide the waters of the Frozen Ocean from those of the Pacific. The frost was yet severe, and upon the summit of the mountains we had a violent snow-storm, but the drivers hurried us along at full speed. The summit is reached by an easy grade, over a country frequently bare of timber. The eastern descent is more abrupt, but not the least inconvenient for a good wagon road. Some portions of it are well covered with forest. we approached the foot of the mountains, and descended toward the Ingodah, the country presents to the view a very extensive valley bare of forest, reaching to the mountains on the east of the river, some ten or twelve miles distant. We now passed along this valley to the north, over a beautiful rolling prairie, where herds of cattle were grazing on the natural grasses.

As

We arrived at Chetah on the 16th of March, at 8 P.M., after a ride in sleighs and telegas, according to the nature of the road, in fortyfive hours, a distance of four hundred and fifty versts from Verchnödinsk. Governor Korsackoff had lodgings provided for us, and we were soon made comfortable. Chetah, the capital of the government of Trans-Baikal, is situated on a small river of that name, which falls into the Ingodah about one mile distant. The Ingodah is one of the main sources of the Amoor. Chetah contains twelve hundred inhabitants. It is a new place, being now in its fourth year as the seat of government. The frontier of Mongolia is one hundred miles to the south.

be under the charge of Colonel Oushakoff, the chief of the military expédition for the Amoor, to whom it must be referred on my arrival at Schilkah, because a barge had already been assigned for my use at that point.

The province of Trans-Baikal is about the size of California, and contains near the same population (340,000). It is a good grazing country for both cattle and sheep, the number of which is stated officially at about two millions. The rivers abound in fish. The soil produces grain and vegetables, flax and hemp. forests afford plenty of game, and the mountains abound in minerals. The winters are cold, but remarkably dry and salubrious; the sky is seldom obscured by clouds, and storms are unfrequent except on the mountain ranges.

The

I determined to employ the time that must elapse before the breaking up of the ice in the river in visiting the mines of Nertchinsk, and other objects of interest in this section of the country. We set out, by way of Old Nertchinsk, to visit the silver mines of Great Nertchinsk. We passed through a very interesting country, until we came to the town of Bankin, about three hundred versts below Chetah, where we had to cross the country, in a southeast direction, over a range of high mountains; passing these, we again found a tolerably level road, with post-stations at villages where we were provided with changes of horses.

Great Nertchinsk is a place of five thousand inhabitants, situated in the centre of one of the richest and most extensive silver countries in the world. Tin, gold, lead, copper, iron, and coal are also found here. This place is six degrees east and one degree south of Chetah, on the waters of the Argoon, about four hundred and fifty versts from its entrance into the Amoor.

The superintendent of the mines treated us with every consideration; and after looking at the town and resting over night, he gave us his own traveling vehicle, with horses from the police-station, to facilitate our progress through the mines. There were no mines worked at Nertchinsk at this season of the year; so we had to ride to a small village a few versts to the south. At this place we found Mr. Eichwald, who had spent several years in the mines of Germany. He had been recently ordered from St. Petersburg to take charge of these mines, which had been rendered worthless for want of proper drainage and ventilation. The errors and defects of former engineers will be remedied, and the mines restored to their former

After remaining a few days at Chetah, and satisfying myself that it was the point at which I should embark on the opening of navigation, I concluded to make it the point of my departure by water on my way to the Pacific Ocean. It was my original intention to have gone to Schilkah, to await the breaking up of the ice in the river; but after reaching Chetah, and gaining such information as I could, I came to the conclusion that steamboats could ascend to this point. In view of this, and having been invited to do so by Korsackoff, I finally determined to embark at this point. Governor Korsackoff, in order to carry out this intention, ordered a small boat to be constructed for me. Mr. Li-productiveness. nan, a merchant of Chetah, also offered me a passage in one of his barges, with the understanding that I should have the opportunity of stopping at such points as I might desire, in order to visit the inhabitants along the shores, and learn as much as possible of the country, together with the manners, customs, and commerce of the people. I communicated this proposition to Governor Korsackoff; he answered that, by order of General Mouravieff, I was to

We visited the mines of the "Three Holy Saints;" descended by a shaft to a depth of over two hundred feet; and then, entering an adit, passed out on the side of the mountain a thousand feet from where we entered. Few laborers were at work; we, however, saw plenty of ore, which looked rich; and, from evidences around us, vast amounts must have been previously mined.

We then visited the mines of Zarentoonsky,