"She tawghte hem to sewe and marke
All maner of sylkyn werke,

Of her they wer ful fayne.""

Syr Kadore says of her—

"She ys the konnyngest wommon,
I trowe, that be yn Crystendom,
have sene."

Of werk that y

And again describing her—

"She sewed sylke werk yn bour."

This same accomplished and luckless lady had, princess though she was, every advantage of early tuition in this notable art, having been sent in her childhood to a lady called Abro, who not only taught her “curtesye and thewe" (virtue and good manners), but also

"Golde and sylke for to sewe,

Amonge maydenes moo:"

evidently an old dame's school; where, however, we may infer from the arrangement of the accomplishments taught, and the special mention of needle-work, that the extra expense would be for the sewing; whereas, in our time and country (or county), the routine has been, "REDING AND SOING,

THREE-PENCE A WEEK: A PENY EXTRA FOR MAN

NERS.

This expensive and troublesome acquirementthe art of sewing in "golde and silke "-was of general adoption: gorgeous must have been the appearance of the damsels and knights of those days, when their

66

Clothys wyth bestes & byrdes wer bete,†
All abowte for pryde."

* Emare.

† Bete-inlayed, embroidered.

By that light Amadis saw his lady, and she appeared more beautiful than man could fancy woman could be. She had on a robe of Indian silk, thickly wrought with flowers of gold; her hair was so beautiful that it was a wonder, and she had covered it only with a garland." *

"Now when the fair Grasinda heard of the coming of the fleet, and of all that had befallen, she made ready to receive Oriana, whom of all persons in the world she most desired to see, because of her great renown that was everywhere spread abroad. She therefore wished to appear before her like a lady of such rank and such wealth as indeed she was: the robe which she put on was adorned with roses of gold, wrought with marvellous skill, and bordered with pearls and precious stones of exceeding value."†

"His fine, soft garments, wove with cunning skill,

All over, ease and wantonness declare;

These with her hand, such subtle toil well taught,
For him, in silk and gold, Alcina wrought." $

"Mayde Elene, al so tyte.

In a robe of samyte, §

Anoon sche gan her tyre,

To do Lybeau's profyte

In kevechers whyt,

Arayde wyth golde wyre.

A velvwet mantyll gay,
Pelored || wyth grys and gray,

Sche caste abowte her swyre;

A sercle upon her molde,
Of stones and of golde,
The best yn that empyre."

*Amadis of Gaul, bk. i. ch. xv.
Orl. Fur.: transl. by Rose.
|| Pelorea-furred.

+ Ibid. bk. iv. ch. iii.
§ Samyte-rich silk.

Lybeaus Disconus.

We read perpetually of " kercheves well schyre,*

"Arayde wyth ryche gold wyre."

But the labours of those days were not confined to merely good-appearing garments: the skill of the needle-woman-for doubtless it was solely attributable to that-could imbue them with a value far beyond that of mere outward garnish.

66

"She seyde, Syr Knight, gentyl and hende,†

I wot thy stat, ord, and ende,

Be naught aschamed of me;

If thou wylt truly to me take,
And alle wemen for me forsake
Ryche i wyll make the.

I wyll the geve an alner,‡
Imad of sylk and of gold cler,

Wyth fayr ymages thre;

As oft thou puttest the hond therinne
A mark of gold thou schalt wynne,

In wat place that thou be."§

But infinitely more marvellous is the following:King Lisuarte was so content with the tidings of Amadis and Galaor, which the dwarf had brought him, that he determined to hold the most honourable court that ever had been held in Great Britain. Presently three knights came through the gate, two of them armed at all points, the third unarmed, of good stature and well proportioned, his hair grey, but of a green and comely old age. He held in his hand a coffer; and, having inquired which was the king, dismounted from his palfrey and kneeled before him, saying, God preserve you, Sir! for you have made the noblest promise that ever king did, if you hold it.'

* Schyre-clear.

Alner

+ Hende-kind, obliging.
§ Launfal.

:

• To

What promise was that?' quoth Lisuarte. maintain chivalry in its highest honour and degree : few princes now-a-days labour to that end; therefore are you to be commended above all other.' Certes, knight, that promise shall hold while I live. God grant you life to complete it!' quoth the old man and because you have summoned a great court to London, I have brought something here which becomes such a person, for such an occasion.' - Then he opened the coffer and took out a Crown of Gold, so curiously wrought and set with pearls and gems, that all were amazed at its beauty; and it well appeared that it was only fit for the brow of some mighty lord. Is it not a work which the most cunning artists would wonder at?' said the old knight. Lisuarte answered, In truth it is.' 'Yet,' said the knight, it hath a virtue more to be esteemed than its rare work and richness: whatever king hath it on his head shall always increase his honour; this it did for him for whom it was made till the day of his death: since then no king hath worn it. I will give it you, sir, for one boon.'

6

'You also, Lady,' said the knight, should purchase a rich mantle that I bring:' and he took from the coffer the richest and most beautiful mantle that ever was seen; for besides the pearls and precious stones with which it was beautified, there were figured on it all the birds and beasts in nature; so that it looked like a miracle. claimed the Queen, this cloth

On my faith,' excan only have been

made by that Lord who can do everything.'

the work of man,' said the old knight;

but rarely

will one be found to make its fellow: it should belong

to wife rather than maiden, for she that weareth it shall never have dispute with her husband.' Britna answered, If that be true, it is above all price; I will give you for it whatsoever you ask.' And Lisuarte bade him demand what he would for the mantle and crown." *

But the robe which occupied the busy fingers of the Saracen king's daughter for seven long years, and of which the jewelled ornaments inwrought in it as was then very usual-were sought far and wide, has often been referred to (albeit wanting in fairy gifts) as a crowning proof of female industry and talent. We give the full description from the Romance of EMARE,' in Ritson's collection :

"Sone aftur yu a whyle,

The ryche Kynge of Cesyle

To the Emperour gaun wende,

A ryche present wyth hym he browght,
A cloth that was wordylye wroght,

He wellcomed hym at the hende.†

"Syr Tergaunte, that nobyll knyghte hyghte,
He presented the Emperour ryght,

And sette hym on hys kne,

Wyth that cloth rychyly dyght.
Full of stones ther hit was pyght,

As thykke as hit myght be,

Off topaze and rubyes,

And other stones of myche prys,

That semely wer to se,

Of crapowtes and nakette,

As thykke ar they sette

For sothe as y say the.

* Amadis of Gaul, bk. i. ch. xxx.
+ Hende-kind, civil, obliging.