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It has been properly stated, that point device signifies exact, nicely, finical; but nothing has been offered concerning the etymology, except that we got the expression from the French. It has, in fact, been supplied from the labours of the needle. Poinct, in the French language, denotes a stitch; devise any thing invented, disposed, or arranged. Point devise was, therefore, a particular sort of patterned lace worked with the needle; and the term point lace is still familiar to every female. They had likewise their point-coupé, point-compté, dentelle au point devant l'aiguille, &c. &c.

But it is apparent, he adds, that the expression point devise became applicable, in a secondary sense, to whatever was uncommonly exact, or constructed with the nicety and precision of stitches made or devised with the needle.

Various books of patterns of needlework for the assistance and encouragement of the fair stitchers were published in those days. Mr. Douce* enumerates some of them, and the omission of any part of his notation would be unpardonable in the present work.

The earliest on the list is an Italian book, under the title of "Esemplario di lavori: dove le tenere fanciulle et altre donne nobile potranno facilmente imparare il modo et ordine di lavorare, cusire, raccamare, et finalment far tutte quelle gentillezze et lodevili opere, le quali pò fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano, con li suoi compasse et misure. Vinegia, per Nicolo D'Aristotile detto Zoppino, MDXXIX. 8vo."

* Illustrations, vol. ii. p. 92.

The next that occurs was likewise set forth by an Italian, and entitled, "Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de lingerie. Paris, 1588. 4to." It is dedicated to the Queen of of France, and had been already twice published.

In 1599 a second part came out, which is much more difficult to be met with than the former, and sometimes contains a neat portrait, by Gaultier, of Catherine de Bourbon, the sister of Henry the Fourth.

The next is "Nouveaux pourtraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme, nouvellement inventez et mis en lumière. Imprimé à Montbeliard, 1598. 4to." It has an address to the ladies, and a poem exhorting young damsels to be industrious; but the author's name does not appear. Vincentio's work was published in England, and printed by John Wolfe, under the title of "New and Singular Patternes and Workes of Linnen, serving for paternes to make all sortes of lace, edginges, and cutworkes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of ladies, gentilwomen, and others that are desireous of this Art. 1591. 4to." He seems also to have printed it with a French title.

We have then another English book, of which this is the title: "Here foloweth certaine Patternes of Cutworkes; newly invented and never published before. Also, sundry sortes of spots, as flowers, birdes, and fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some with gould, some with silke, and some with crewell in coullers; or otherwise at your

pleasure. And never but once published before. Printed by Rich. Shorleyker." No date. In oblong quarto.

And lastly, another oblong quarto, entitled, "The Needle's Excellency, a new booke, wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious." Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640. Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. The poems were composed by John Taylor the water poet. It appears that the work had gone through twelve impressions, and yet a copy is now scarcely to be met with. This may be accounted for by supposing that such books were generally cut to pieces, and used by women to work upon or transfer to their samplers. From the dress of a lady and gentleman on one of the patterns in the last mentioned book, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James the First. All the others are embellished with a multitude of patterns elegantly cut in wood, several of which are eminently conspicuous for their taste and beauty. We are happy to add a little further information on some of these works, and on others preserved in the British Museum.

"Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes

sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dédié à la Reyne. A Paris, 1578."*

The book opens with a sonnet to the fair, which announces to them an admirable motive for the work itself:

"Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer."

Aux Dames et Damoiselles.

SONNET.

"L'un s'efforce à gaigner le cœur des grads Seigneurs
Pour posseder en fin une exquise richesse;
L'autre aspire aux estats, pour monter en altesse,
Et l'autre, par la guerre alléche les honneurs.

"Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs,
Je me sen satisfaict de vivre en petitesse,
Et de faire si bien, qu'aux Dames ie delaisse
Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs.

"Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames) ie vous prie,
Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquels ie vous dedie,
Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer.

"En ceste nouveauté, pourrez beaucoup apprendre,
Et maistresses en fin en cest œuvre vous rendre,
Le travail est plaisant: Si grand est le loyer."

Which, barring elegant diction and poetic rule, may be read thus::

Whilst one man worships lordly state

As yielding all that he desires

This, fertile acres begs from fate;
Another, bloody laurels fires.

To dissipate my devils blue,
Trifles, I'm satisfied to do;
For surely if the fair I please,

My very labours smack of ease.

*This seems to be a somewhat earlier edition of the second book

in Mr. Douce's list.

Take then, fair ladies, I you pray,
The book which at your feet I lay,
To make you happy, brisk and gay.

There's much you here may learn anew,
Which comme il faut will render you,
And bring you joy and honour too.

Proceed we to the

Ouvrages de point Coupé," of which there are thirty-six. Some birds, animals, and figures are introduced; but the patterns are chiefly arabesque, set off in white, on a thick black ground.

Then, with a repetition of the ornamented titlepage, come about fifty patterns, which are represented much like the German patterns of the present day, in squares for stitches, but not so finely wrought as some which we shall presently notice. These patterns consist of arabesques, figures, birds, beasts, flowers, in every variety. To many the stitches are ready counted (as well as pourtrayed), thus:

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"Ce Pélican contient en longueur 70 mailles, et en hauteur 65." This pattern of maternity is represented as pecking her breast, towards which three young ones are flying; their course being indicated by the three lines of white stitches, all converging to the living nest.

"Ce Griffon cõtient en hauteur 58 mailles, et en lõgueur 67." Small must be the skill of the needlewoman who does not make this a very rampant animal indeed.

"Ce Paon contient en longueur 65 mailles, et en hauteur 61."

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La Licorne en hauteur cõtiết 44 mailles, et en longueur 62, &c. &c."

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