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"I could wish it had been possible for us to have prolonged our stay for a few days, not only for our own gratification, but for the benefit which these poor people would have derived from it, for I am perfectly satisfied, from the interest every one took, nothing would have been withheld by the lowest of the crew which probability told him would add to their comfort: however this was impossible; for, from some cause on the part of the commissariat department, and which I cannot well explain, we were reduced to so comparatively small a portion of provisions, that it was necessary to use every means to expedite our return to South America, and after ascertaining the longitude to be in 130° 25′ W. and latitude 25° 4′ S. we again set sail and proceeded on our voyage.

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"No one but the Captains went ashore, which will be a source of lasting regret to me, for I would rather have seen the simplicity of that little village, than all the splendour and magnificence of a city.

"I now lament it the more, because the conclusion of this chapter will be from the relation of another, and I was willing to lay as little as possible before the reader, but what I had myself been a witness; still, as I can rely on its veracity, I shall hope it will please. After landing,' said my friend, and we had ascended a little eminence, we were imperceptibly led through groupes of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit trees, to a beautiful picturesque little village, formed on an oblong square, with trees of various kinds irregularly interspersed. The houses small, but regular, convenient, and of unequalled cleanliness. The daughter of Adams received us on the hill. She came doubtlessly as a spy, and had we taken men, or even been armed ourselves, would certainly have given her father timely notice to escape, but as we had neither, she waited our arrival, and conducted us to where her father was. She was arrayed in nature's simple garb, and wholly unadorned, but she was beauty's self, and needed not the aid of ornament. She betrayed some surprize-timidity was a prominent feature.

"John Adams is a fine looking old man, approaching to sixty years of age. We conversed with him a long time, relative to the mutiny of the Bounty, and the ultimate fate of Christian. He denied being accessary to, or having the least knowledge of the conspiracy, but he expressed great horror at the conduct of Captain Bligh, not only towards his men, but officers also. I asked him if he had a desire to return to England, and I must confess his replying in the affirmative caused me great surprize.

"He told me he was perfectly aware how deeply he was involved; that by following the fortune of Christian, he had not only sacrificed every claim to his country, but that his life was the necessary forfeiture for such an act, and he supposed would be exacted from him were he ever to return: notwithstanding all these circumstances, nothing would be able to occasion him so much gratification as that of seeing once more, prior to his death, that country which gave him birth, and from which he had been so long estranged.

"There was a sincerity in his speech, I can badly describe it—but it had a very powerful influence in persuading me these were his real sentiments. My interest was excited to so great a degree, that I offered

him a conveyance for himself, with any of his family who chose to accompany him. He appeared pleased at the proposal, and as no one was then present, he sent for his wife and children. The rest of this little community surrounded the door. He communicated his desire, and solicited their acquiescence. Appalled at a request not less sudden than in opposition to their wishes, they were all at a loss for a reply.

"His charming daughter, although inundated with tears, first broke the silence.

"Oh do not, Sir,' said she, 'take from me my father! do not take away my best-my dearest friend.' Her voice failed her-she was unable to proceed-leaned her head upon her hand, and gave full vent to her grief. His wife too (an Otaheitean) expressed a lively sorrow. The wishes of Adams soon became known among the others, who joined in pathetic solicitation for his stay on the Island. Not an eye was dry-the big tear stood in those of the men-the women shed them in full abundance. I never witnessed a scene so fully affecting, or more replete with interest. To have taken him from a circle of such friends, would have ill become a feeling heart, to have forced him away in opposition to their joint and earnest entreaties, would have been an outrage on humanity.

"With assurances that it was neither our wish nor intention to take him from them against his inclination, their fears were at length dissipated. His daughter too had gained her usual serenity, but she was lovely in her tears, for each seemed to add an additional charm. Forgetting the unhappy deed which placed Adams in that spot, and seeing him only in the character he now is, at the head of a little community, adored by all, instructing all, in religion, industry, and friendship, his situation might be truly envied, and one is almost inclined to hope that his unremitting attention to the government and morals of this extraordinary little colony, will ultimately prove an equivalent for the part he formerly took,-entitle him to praise, and should he ever return to England, ensure him the clemency of that Sovereign he has so much injured.

"The young women have invariably beautiful teeth, fine eyes, and open expression of countenance, and looks of such simple innocence, and sweet sensibility, that renders their appearance at once interesting and engaging, and it is pleasing to add, their minds and manners were as pure and innocent, as this impression indicated. No lascivious looks, or any loose, forward manners, which so much distinguish the characters of the females of the other Islands.'

"The Island itself has an exceedingly pretty appearance, and I was informed by Christian, every part was fertile and capable of being cultivated. The coast is every way bound with rocks, insomuch that they are at all times obliged to carry their little boats to the village, but the timber is of so light a nature that one man is adequate to the burden of the largest they have.

"Each family has a separate allotment of land, and each strive to rival the other in their agricultural pursuits, which is chiefly confined to the propagation of the yam, and which they have certainly brought to

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the finest perfection I ever saw. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, were brought with them in the Bounty, and have been since reared with great success. The pigs also came by the same conveyance, as well as goats and poultry. They had no pigeons, and I am sorry to say no one thought of leaving those few we had on board, with them.

"The pigs have got into the woods, and many are now wild. Fish of various sorts are taken here, and in great abundance; the tackling is all of their own manufacturing, and the hooks, although beat out of old iron hoops, not only answer the purpose, but are fairly made.

"Needles they also make from the same materials. Those men who came on board, were finely formed, and of manly features. Their height about five feet ten inches. Their hair black and long, generally plaited into a tail.

"They wore a straw hat, similar to those worn by sailors, with a few feathers stuck into them by way of ornament. On their shoulders was a mantle resembling the Chilinan Poncho, which hung down to the knee, and round the waist, a girdle corresponding to that of the Indians at the Marquesas, both of which are produced from the bark of trees growing on the Island. They told me they had clothes on shore, but never wore them. I spoke to Christian particularly, of Adams, who assured me he was greatly respected, insomuch that no one acted in opposition to his wishes, and when they should lose him, their regret would be general. The inter-marriages which had taken place among them, have been the occasion of a relationship throughout the colony. There seldom happens to be a quarrel, even of the most trivial nature, and then, (using their own term,) is nothing more than a word of mouth quarrel, which is always referred to Adams for adjustment." (P. 88-96.)

On a question being put to one of these visitors on board the ship, as to what he believed on the subject of religion, he immediately went through the creed in our liturgy, informing them that John Adams had taught him, who had also caused a prayer to be said every day at noon. Q." And what is that prayer?" A. "I will arise and go to my Father, and say unto him, Father, I have sinned against Heaven, and before thee, and am no more worthy to be called thy son." Q. "Do you continue to say this every day?" A. Yes, we never neglect it." Upon being asked who was their King, the answer was, "Why, King George, to be sure." It appears that the whole of this little interesting colony, at this time, amounted to forty-eight persons, besides infants. The clothing of the young females consisted, as we learn from Capt. Pipon, of a piece of linen, reaching from the waist to the knees, and generally a sort of mantle, thrown loosely over the shoulders, and hanging as low as the ancles; but this covering appeared to be intended chiefly as a protection against the sun and the weather; as it was frequently laid aside, and then the upper part of the body was entirely exposed, and it is not possible to conceive more beautiful forms than those which

they exhibited. They sometimes wreathe caps or bonnets for the head, in the most tasteful manner, to protect the face from the sun; and, according to Capt. Pipon, "our dress-makers in London might take pattern from the elegant taste of these untaught females." The females of John Adams's family consisted of his old blind wife and three daughters, from fifteen to eighteen years age, and a boy of eleven; a daughter of his wife, by her former husband, and his son in law. On the opposite side of the little village is the dwelling of young Christian; and in the centre is a smooth verdant lawn; and as we learn from the same sources, these houses contain very good beds, comfortable furniture, and have the recommendations of cleanliness in the highest degree. One is, in addition to all this, much gratified to know that such are the natural fortifications of the island, that it may be deemed impregnable to an invading enemy.

They now departed from these interesting colonists, and Chapter VI. introduces us to the sea-port of Valparaiso, on the coast of Chili, at which place they arrived after a voyage of thirty days. It is situated in Lat. 31° 7′ S.; and in Long. 79° 19′ W. This town is commodious, large, and opulent, regularly built, with houses of only one story high; its trade is confined chiefly to corn, cordage, and copper. The custom-house is erected on the beach, as are also the mercantile houses; there are two churches and many monasteries. The citadel is in the centre of the town, and commands it in every direction; it is secured by a battery of twelve guns, adjoining which is the governor's residence and the prison; the whole fortress, however, is quite untenable, and in a very neglected state. The shore is bold, and the anchorage secure, but water for large vessels is very difficult to be procured. Notwithstanding the vigilance of the government, smuggling is carried on to a considerable extent. The market is well supplied, particularly with poultry, vegetables, and fruit. There is an abundance of cattle in the country around, and the horses are handsome, fleet, and spirited. There is likewise another division of this town distinct from the part called Port Valparaiso, already described; this is named Almendrale, or Almond Grove, and has several small churches and a monastery. It is the great fruit mart, and has large vineyards and gardens. The population is about 25,000. The temperature is moderate and salubrious, and the rainy season continues from June to September. Quillota, a town in the interior, was the place next visited by the author; it stands in the midst of a fertile valley, which produces fine hemp, and is very abundant in gold and silver ore. The Chilinans in general are active and expert in securing the wild cattle of the country, but are in a low state of military discipline, and ill affected towards the Spanish government. The

voyage was now re-commenced, and they soon arrived at Callao, the port of Lima, which, with the island of San Lo rensa, forms a magnificent harbour. This town is mean, and contains only 300 houses, but has a custom-house, which is rendered of great importance by its extensive commerce. The approach to Lima is commodious and agreeable; it is entered by an arch-way, and disposed in rectilinear streets, with proper precautions to preserve cleanliness.

"The extent of this city may be estimated to be nearly eight miles in circumference, including the suburb on the north side of the river, or about_two_miles three quarters in length, and a mile and half in width. Its fortification consists, merely of a wall built of unburnt bricks, from 15 to 20 feet high, and nearly as many thick, with bastions flanking each other a distance not exceeding two hundred yards.

"The width of the breast work from the inside extremity of the parapet, is by no means adequate to permit the mounting of cannon, and it appears evident to have been intended only to protect the city from the incursions of, or being surprized by the Indians.

"According to Frazier, whose plan, as well as description of the place, I found to be exceedingly correct, it was built in 1685 by John Ramond, a Flemish Priest in the Viceroyship of the Duke de la Plata.

"It is now very neglected, and out of repair, but the disaffected state of the country seems to have created some just alarm among the Spaniards, and the Marquis of Concordia has ordered several gateways to be repaired, and the wall to be put in a proper state of defence; but its great state of disorganization precludes its being accomplished in any reasonable time. It possesses no kind of ditch, or out-works.

"At about 150 yards, or one square from the bridge, is the Placa Real, or Royal Square, in the centre of which are the remains of an elegant brass fountain; several of the lions with which it was embellished, as well as part of the statue of Fame, still remain. The water is thrown to a considerable height, and the basin is suf ficiently spacious for it to fall within its margin. On the east side of this square is the cathedral, and palace of the bishop. The Viceroy's establishment occupies the North side; the West is taken up by the court of justice, council house, and prison, with a row of arches, which are continued throughout the South side, and under them are shops of various_descriptions. There is a market held in this square, but it cannot boast of any particular excellence.

"The Cathedral does not possess any external beauty; but the splendour, magnificence, and riches of the interior can alone be conceived. The enchanted palaces, as described in the fairy tales, recurred to my memory the instant I entered this elegant sanctuary. The great altar, standing at the east end, is modern; and the columns, numerous as they are, together with every other part, are covered with silver in about the thickness of a dollar, and when lit up for the performance of any

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