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THE WHITE HILLS.

"The best image which the world can give of Paradise, is in the slope of the meadows, orchards, and cornfields on the sides of a great Alp, with its purple rocks and eternal snows above; this excellence not being in anywise a matter referable to feeling, or individual prefer· ences, but demonstrable by calm enumeration of the number of lovely colors on the rocks, the varied grouping of the trees, and quantity of noble incidents in stream, crag, or cloud, presented to the eye at any given moment."

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Of the grandeur or expression of the hills, I have not spoken; how far they are great, or strong, or terrible, I do not for the moment consider, because vastness, and strength, and terror, are not to all minds subjects of desired contemplation. It may make no difference to some men whether a natural object be large or small, whether it be strong or feeble. But loveliness of color, perfectness of form, endlessness of change, wonderfulness of structure, are precious to all undiseased human minds; and the superiority of the mountains in all these things to the lowland is, I repeat, as measurable as the richness of a painted window matched with a white one, or the wealth of a museum compared with that of a simply furnished chamber. They seem to have been built for the human rue, as at once their schools and cathedrals; full of treasures of illuminated manuscript for the scholar, kindly in simple lessons to the worker, quiet in pale cloisters for the thinker, glorious in holiness for the worshipper. And of these great cathedrals of the earth, with their gates of rock, pavements of cloud, choirs of stream and stone, altars of and vaults of purple, traversed by the continual stars,-of these, as we have seen, it was written, nor long ago, by one of the best of the poor human race for whom they were built, wondering in himself for whom their Creator could have made them, and thinking to have entirely discerned the Divine intent in them—' They are inhabited by the Beasts.'"

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RUSKIN.

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Two groups of mountains are included under the general title of "The White Hills,"-one, the Mount Washington chain, or the White Mountains proper, the other, the Franconia range, of which Mount Lafayette, a thousand feet lower than Mount Washington, is the highest summit. We commence by calling attention to this simple fact, because many persons, even now, in spite of the excellent guide-books, go into New Hampshire,

with confused notions of the topography of the region which attracts them, and leave with no map in their mind's eye of what they have seen. We have even seen maps, that were regularly sold in the mountain hotels, which represented the Franconia range as a westerly continuation of the great White Mountain chain, and which placed Montreal a little south of Portland. Once a traveller who was just entering the hill country, and who seemed to be eager to find "The Notch," asked us if it was situated on the top of Mount Washington. And one guide-book, that, a very few years ago, was sold to travellers from New York and the South, described "The Profile " as only a short walk from the Willey House. They are about thirty miles apart. We advise all travellers, therefore, to study a good map of the mountain region, carefully, before starting, and to consult it so faithfully, between the prominent points of their journey, that the geography of the country which gives them pleasure and refreshment, may not be distorted and dislocated in their

memory.

There are four avenues of approach to the two highest ranges of the New Hampshire mountains,-the valleys of the Saco, the Merrimac, the Androscoggin, and the tributaries of the Connecticut. Railroads connect with every one of these natural paths, except the Saco. And by each line of railroad one may reach some point among the highest hills, on the evening of the same day that he leaves Boston, or in about twenty-four hours from New York.

There is ample reward, as we shall hope to show, in any method of approach. Whichever path travellers may select, they

In this delicious region.

cannot err

We shall devote a few pages to a statement of these routes, the times they require, and the general character of the scenery to which they first introduce the traveller.

And in doing this, we are entirely independent of any preferences for railway or stage companies, and of any influence from the rival

ries of hotels. This book is devoted to the scenery of the mountain region. We intend to state fairly from what points the noblest views are to be gained, what are the characteristics of each district, and along what routes the richest beauty lies; with no thought in any case of the nearness to or distance from any hotel, or stage line, or railway station. It is assumed that the public houses are all good, and that the stage lines are equally worthy of patronage. And we take it for granted, also, that travellers are moved to spend their money and time, not primarily to study the gastronomy of Coös County in New Hampshire, or to criticize the comparative upholstery of the largest houses there; but to be introduced to the richest feasts of loveliness and grandeur that are spread by the Summer around the valleys, and to be refreshed by the draperies of verdure, shadow, cloud, and color, that are hung by the Creator around and above the hills.

THE ANDROSCOGGIN VALLEY.

The quickest access to the White Mountain range itself is gained by the valley of the Androscoggin. This noble river flows by the extreme easterly base of that range, where the forms are the most noble and imposing. Within a very few miles of the foot of Mount Washington, it receives the Peabody River, which issues from the narrow Pinkham Pass between Mount Carter and the White Mountains. This stream is supplied in part from the southeast slopes of the highest mountains of the chain, and is often swollen into a tremendous torrent by the storms, or the heavy and sudden showers that drench their sides. It is the Androscoggin which has engineered for the Grand Trunk Railway, that connects Portland and Montreal, the St. Lawrence with the Atlantic. That Company are indebted to it for service in their behalf that was patiently discharged centuries before Adam.

Leaving Boston in the morning by the Boston and Maine, or the

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