fancied one's self in one of the parched plains of the East, rather than on the shores of the Arctic Sea. From this hillock, I discerned a deep bay, bearing south-west, of which the sandy point of our encampment (called after Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Ogle) formed the eastern extremity; while the opposite side terminated in another point bearing W.N. W. The land which encircled the bay was blue and high, and apparently much encumbered with ice, which stretched from side to side, and again northerly as far as the horizon. Still, however, there was a ray of hope, for narrow streaks of open water chequered the surface, like evening shadows on a bright lake. Rain fell incessantly in the night, and the morning disclosed a dense wet fog, together with the unwelcome sight of closely packed ice against the shore. A little after noon there was a storm, with thunder and lightning; the first I remember to have seen so far north. The steersmen were twice sent to examine the state of the ice as far as Point Ogle (which was now found to be an` island or part of the main, according as it was high or low water, being connected at the ebb by a narrow ridge of sand and stones); for the wind, having towards evening veered to the northward, threatened to carry the outside drift ice into both openings, and thereby effectually prevent our moving an inch. To obviate this, it was my intention to have poled through the inshore ice as far as the narrowest part of the small isthmus that joined the island to the main, and then to have made a portage of boat and cargo to the west side, where, at present, there was a lane of open water, connected with that leading to the distant western land; but the immense size of the pieces, and the firmness with which they were wedged together, rendered the scheme totally impracticable. Though the thermometer was at 42°, yet, being wet, we were chilly and uncomfortable, and our cheerless condition was greatly aggravated by the want of fire. A watch was set in the night, to enable us to take advantage of any movement of the ice which might aid our progress. The steersmen relieved each other also, in going to and from the island for the same purpose; but all was in vain: it still remained packed, some even floating southward into the harbour; and, to add to our wretchedness, the rain scarcely ceased for a moment, and the weather continued raw and cold. This, together with the want of warm food, excited my apprehensions for the health of the crew, and the rather, as one (McKenzie) had been for some days swollen and bloated so as to be incapacitated from performing his regular duty, and, what was at this time of most consequence, from going into the water at all; happily, however, no other had as yet complained. I again crossed over to the hillock through a kind of quicksand, and saw the land as before, except that a high point was now visible to the south-west, which seemed to mark it as an island. To the north and west, nothing but ice presented itself to the view; but due east, I could distinguish open water and a small island. Southward, the drift ice appeared in every quarter; and the wind, which had got a few points to the westward, had already driven it close into the shore. To employ the people, they were sent in search of fern or moss for fuel; but though they went different ways to the distance of ten miles, their labour was fruitless, for they returned at night without a single particle. At 2 P. M. it began to rain violently, and continued to do so without the slightest cessation until noon the following day (August 10th), when it was succeeded by a fog. Meantime a great part of the ice had disappeared, and the boat was soon laden and pulled to the island; but there being no channel, by which we could proceed westerly, owing to the heavy masses wedged against the shore, we made a portage, and launched the boat across. The sand-banks were found to run out several hundred yards, and the ice to seaward, being packed apparently by a westerly current, had forced the lighter pieces on shore; which, together with the shoals, embarrassed us beyond measure: however, by pushing some |