428

CHAP. XII.

Exhilarating Influence of a Hunting Excursion. - Removal of the Esquimaux. Leave them a Bag of Pemmican.-Accident to the Boat.-Inundation of the Country.-Discovery of Esquimaux.- Wise Man of the Tribe. Critical Position in the Rapids. - A Storm. Adventure of a Lemming. Encamp at Musk-ox Rapid. — Meeting with Mr. McLeod.— Fate of Williamson. The Yellow Knives. Encamp on Artillery Lake. -Reach the Ah-hel-dessy.- Depart for Montreal. The Sauteaux Indians. Success of Missionary at Sault Ste. Marie.-Return to England. Conclusion.

DURING the night the ice had parted sufficiently to allow of our reaching open water, and with a fair wind we went about twenty miles south, where, for the second time in nine days, we partook of a warm meal. Three stars were seen. Rain fell in abundance the whole of the night and following day; and as it was accompanied by a strong breeze, we were unable to move until 9 P. M.; when, tempted by a lull, we set

out on the traverse to the eastern shore. We were soon, however, enveloped in a thick fog, which shortly turned to a heavy rain, and drenched us to the skin. The people exerted themselves to the utmost, and yet we did not reach Point Beaufort until past two in the morning.

August 17th.—A N.W. gale set in with such fury, that we were obliged to move the boat from where she had been hauled up to a more safe and sheltered place to leeward, and there also we took refuge ourselves from the heavy squalls and the snow that now poured down in large flakes. In the evening, divine service was read.

The succeeding day brought us no better weather; and the surf and waves were much higher. I had long observed a depression of spirits in my steersmen, which I had attributed to the novelty of their situation, but I could not account for the gloom which now spread itself as if by infection over the rest; except, indeed, the artillerymen, whose steady conduct was such as to deserve the highest commendation. The thing itself was of little moment now; but as melancholy faces and melancholy weather are not agreeable companions, and thinking that some of the party would be benefited by a freer circulation of blood, I sent them to hunt, with the promise

430 BENEFICIAL TENDENCY OF RECREATION.

of a glass of grog to any who should bring home something for supper. This infused some activity into them; and after an absence of a few hours, they returned cheerful and ruddy with exercise, bringing with them three fine hares and a brace of ducks, different from any that had hitherto been seen. In colour, these last resembled the bustard of the country, with black neck and bill, the latter short and more curved than in the other kinds; sepia brown plumage about the back and wings, with a mixture of blackgrey, the breast a dull white, and the legs black. They had not the least fishy flavour, and, plain boiled, made us an excellent meal.

The N.W. gale gradually abated in the night, and on the 19th we proceeded towards the river, aided by a breeze from the east; and as it increased, I beheld with a satisfaction almost painful the admirable qualities of the boat, which, had there been a clear passage, would have taken us in the same gallant style to Point Turnagain. The wind freshened into a gale, and made us seek shelter and safety under the lee of Victoria Headland. Here the rain fell in torrents; and notwithstanding the additional covering of the mainsail over the tent, it was impossible to keep it out. The storm, in fact, partook more of the character of a hurricane than a common gale,

and it was with difficulty we could keep the tent up at all.

August 21.- The wind gave place to a dark wet fog, so thick that we were barely able to start by creeping along the land towards the mouth of the river; and after getting frequently on shore upon the shoals at its mouth, we entered it in the afternoon amidst heavy rain, which, however, some of the people scarcely noticed in their delight at having fairly left the ice: one, indeed, as soon as the sea was shut out from view, tossed up his cap for joy. The western range of mountains, extending to Point Richardson, was honoured by the name of her Most Gracious Majesty; others which were visible in the evening, after Francis Chantrey, Esq.; and the eastern range was distinguished after her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent. The night was again rainy, and after a long detention we reached the lower fall, where in our descent we had found the Esquimaux. They had disappeared, which I much regretted, not only because my pockets were laden with presents for them, but because I wanted to make some more sketches, and to show them the survey of the coast as far as we had been, and obtain, if pos

sible, some further information.

The water in

the river had fallen three feet, and thereby afforded a facility for launching the boat over a

point where the baggage was also carried. Having proceeded four miles farther to a line of heavy rapids, an Esquimaux was seen on the hills; and shortly after the two tents which we had before visited were discovered, pitched on the eastern bank of a strong rapid, the eddies of which probably furnished an ample supply of fish. It was impossible for us to cross without endangering the boat, and we commenced making two long portages, while the natives watched us with much composure from the opposite heights, where they were all seated in a line. As we could not attract them to us by any signs, a number of iron hoops were placed on a pile of stones, with various-coloured ribbonds attached to them; besides twenty-three awls, fifteen fishhooks, three dozen brass rings, and two pounds of beads. All this was done under their eyes; they could scarcely fail therefore to understand its friendly import, and that our intention was to benefit them. My only fear was lest such, to them, inestimable wealth should stir up quarrels among them, from any real or fancied inequality in the distribution.

We encamped near the next rapid. It blew too hard on the following morning to allow us to move, and we saw the Esquimaux watching us from behind the rocks. About noon, two of them brought their kieyaks to the water's edge