RICHARD FORD.

One of the most vivid pictures of a great country and people ever drawn, is presented in the Handbook for Travellers in Spain and Readers at Home,' by RICHARD FORD (1796-1858). The first edition of this work appeared in 1845, in two volumes. In 1846 the author selected portions of it to form, with additions and corrections, a work suited to the library, and bearing the title of 'Gatherings from Spain. A new edition, partly rewritten, was issued in 1855, as one of the series of Murray's Hand-books.' This interesting and valuable work has elicited praise from all travellers in Spain and all literary critics as the best book that has ever appeared for illustration of the national character and manners of the Spaniards, as well as for its descriptions of the scenery, and topography of the country. Mr. Ford was the eldest son of Sir Richard Ford, at one time M.P. for East Grinstead, and chief police magistrate of London. He studied for the bar, but never practised, devoting himself to art and literature, and residing for many years in Spain. He was an occasional contributor to the Quarterly Review.'

Spain and Spaniards.

Sirte Spain appears on the map to be a square and most compact kingdom, politiclans and geographers have treated it and its inhabitants as one and the same; practically, however, this is almost a geographical expression, as the earth, air, and mortals of the different portions of this conventional whole are altogether heterogeneous. Peninsular man has followed the nature by which he is surrounded; mountains and rivers have wa'led and moated the dislocated land; mists and gleams have diversified the beaven; and differing like soil and sky, the people, in each of the once independent provinces, now bound loosely together by one golden hoop, the crown, has its own particular character. To hate his neighbor is a second nature to the Spaniard: no spick and span constitution, be it printed on parchment or calico, can at once efface traditions and antipathies of a thousand years; the accidents of localities and provincial nationalities, out of which they have sprung, remain too deeply dyed to be forthwith discharged by theorists. The climate and productions vary no less than do Janguage, costume, and manners; and so division and localism have, from time im memorial, formed a marked national feature. Spaniards may talk and boast of their Patria, as is done by the similarly circumstanced Italians, but like them and the Germans, they have the fallacy, but no real Fatherland; it is an aggregation rather than an amalgamation-every single individual in his heart really only loving his native province, and only considering as his fellow-countryman, su paisano-a most binding and endearing word-one born in the same locality as himself: hence it is not casy to predicate much in regard to the Spains' and Spaniards in general which will hold quite good as to each particular portion ruled by the sovereign of Las Espanas, the plural title given to the chief of the federal union of this really little united kingdom. Espanolismo may, however, be said to consist in a love for a common faith and king, and in a coincidence of resistance tc all foreign dictation. The deep sentiments of religion, loyalty and independence. noble characteristics indeed, have been sapped in our times by the influence of Trans-Pyrencan revolutions.

Two general observations may be premised: First, The people of Spain, the socalled lower orders, are superior to those who arrogate to themselves the title of being their betters, and in most respects are more interesting. The masses, the least spoilt and the most national, stand like pillars amid ruins, and on them the edifice of Spain's greatness is, if ever, to be reconstructed. This may have arisen in this land of anomalies. from the peculiar policy of government in church and state, where the possessors of religious and civil monopolies, who dreaded knowledge as power,

pressed heavily on the noble and rich, dwarfing down their bodies by intermarriages, and all but extinguishing their minds by inquisitions; while the people, overlooked in the obscurity of poverty, were allowed to grow out to their full growth like wild weeds of a rich soil. They, in fact, have long enjoyed, under despotisms of church and state, a practical and personal independence, the good results of which are evident in their stalwart frames and many bearing.

Secondly. A distinction must ever be made between the Spaniard in his individual and in his collective capacity, and still more in an official one: taken by himself, he is true and valiant; the nicety of his Pundonor, or point of personal honor, is proverbial; to him, as an individual, you may safely trust your life, fair fame, and purse. Yet history, treating of these individuals in the collective, juatados, presents the foulest examples of misbehavior in the field, of Punic had faith in the cabinet, of bankruptcy and repudiation on the exchange. This may be also much ascribed to the deteriorating influence of bad government, by which the individual Spaniard, like the monk in a convent, becomes fused into the corporate. The atmosphere is too infectious to avoid some corruption, and while the Spaniard feels that his character is only in safe keeping when in his own hands, and no man of any nation knows better then how to uphold it, when linked with others, his self-pride, impatient of any superior, lends itself readily to feelings of mistrust, until self-interest and preservation become uppermost. From suspecting that he will be sold and sacrificed by others, he ends by floating down the turbid stream like the rest: yet even official employment does not quite destroy all private good qualities, and the empleado may be appealed to as au individual.

The Spanish Muleteers.

The muleteer of Spain is justly renowned: his generic term is arriero, a gee-upper, for his arre arre is pure Arabic, as indeed are almost all the terms connected with his craft, as the Moriscoes were long the great carriers of Spain. To travel with the muleteer. when the party is small or a person alone, is both cheap and safe; indeed many of the most picturesque portions of Spain, Ronda and Granada for instance, can scarcely be reached except by walking or riding. These men, who are constantly ou the road, and going backwards and forwards, are the best persons to consult for details; their animals are generally to be hired, but a muleteer's steed is not pleasant to ride, since their beasts always travel in single files. The leading animal is furnished with a copper bel with a wooden clapper (to give notice of their march), which is shaped like an ice-mould, sometimes two feet long, and hangs from the neck, being contrived, as it were, on purpose to knock the animal's knees as much as possible, and to emit the greatest quantity of most melancholy sounds, which, according to the pious origin of all bells, were meant to scare away the Evil One. The bearer of all

this tintinnabular clatter is chosen from its superior docility, and knack in picking out a way. The others follow their leader, and the noise he makes when they cannot see him. They are heavily but scientifically laden. These sumpter' mules are gaily decorated with trappings full of colour and tags. The head-gear is composed of different coloured worsteds, to which a multitude of small bells are affixed; hence the saying. Muger de mucha campanilla,' a woman of many bells. of much show, much noise or pretension. The muleteer either walks by the side of his animal. or sits aloft on the cargo, with his feet dangling on the neck, a seat which is by no means so uncomfortable as it would appear. A rude gun. loaded with slugs, hangs by his side, and often also a guitar; these emblems of life and death paint the nuchanged, reckless condition of fberia, where extremes have ever met, where a man still goes out of the world, like a swan, with a song. Thus accoutred, as Byron says, with

the approach of the caravan is announced from afar by his cracked or guttural voice: 'How carols now the lusty muleteer! For when not engaged in swearing or smoking, the livelong day is passed in one monotonous high-pitched song, the tune of which is little in harmony with the import of the words of his cheerful humour, be ing most unmusical and melancholy; but such is the true type of oriental melody, as it is called. The same absence of thought which is shewn in England by whistling is displayed in Spain by singing.

The Spanish muleteer is a fine fellow: he is intelligent, active, and enduring; he braves hunger and thirst, heat and cold, mud and dust; he works as hard as his cattle, never robs or is robbed; and while his betters put off everything till to-morrow except bankruptcy, he is punctual and honest; his frame is wiry and sinewy, his costume peculiar. li must be admitted that these cavalcades of mules are truly national and picturesque; mingled with mounted norsemen, the zigzag lines come threading down the mountam defiles, now tracking through the aromatic brushwood, now concealed amid rocks and olive-trees, now emerging bright and glittering into the sunshine, giving life and movement to the lonely nature, and breaking the usual stillness by the tinkle of the bell and the sad ditty of the muleteer-sounds which, though unmusical in themselves. are in keeping with the scene, and associated with wild Spanish rambles, just as in England the harsh whetting of the scythe is mixed up with the sweet spring and newly-mown meadow.

A. H. LAYARD.

Few modern books of travels or narratives of discovery have excited greater interest in this country than the two volumes published in 1848, Nineveh and its Remains,' by AUSTIN HENRY LAYARD. Mr. Layard (born in Paris in 1817) had travelled extensively in the East, and was devoted to the study of Eastern antiquities and manners. The vast mounds near Mosul, on the banks of the Tigris, were traditionally known as the site of the ancient Nineveh; the French consul at Mosul, M. Botta, had made interesting discoveries at Khorsabad; and, stimulated by his example, Mr. Layard entered on a course of excavations at the same spot. The generosity of Sir Stratford Canning-now Lord Stratford de Redcliffe-supplied funds for the expedition. In October 1845, Mr. Layard reached Mosul, and commenced operations at Nimroud, about eighteen miles lower down the Tigris. He descended the river on a raft.

Appearance of Nimroud.

It was evening as we approached the spot. The spring rains had clothed the mound with the richest verdure, and the fertile meadows which stretched around it were covered with flower of every bue Amidst this luxuriant vegetation were partly concealed a few fragments of bricks. pottery, and alabaster. upon which might be traced the well-defined wedges of the cuneiform character. Did not these remains mark the nature of the ruin, it might have been confounded with a natural eminence A long line of consecutive narrow mounds, still retaining the appearance of walls or ramparts, stretched from its base, and formed a vast quadrangle. The river flowed at some distance from them: its waters, swollen by the melting of the snow on the Armenian hills, were broken into a thousand foaming whirlpools by an artificial barrier built across the stream. On the eastern bank the soil had been washed away by the current; but a solid mass of masonry still withstood its impetuosity. The Arab, who guided my small raft. gave himself up to religions ejaculations as we approached this formidable cataract, over which we were carried with some violence. Once safely through the danger, my e mpen on explained to me that this unusual change in the quiet face of the river was caused by a great dam which had been built by Nimrod, and that in the autumn before the winter rains, the huge stones of which it was constructed squared, and united by cramps It was, in fact one of iron, were frequently visible above the surface of the stream of those monuments of a great people, to be found in all the rivers of Mesopotamia, which were undertaken to insure a constant supply of water to the innumerable canals, spreading like network over the surrounding country, nd which, even in the days of Alexander, were looked upon as the works of an ancient nation. No wonder that the traditions of the present inhabitants of the land shon d assign them to one of the founders of the human race! The Arab was telling me of the connec

tion between the dam and the city built by Athur, the lieutenant of Nimrod, the vast ruins of which were now before us-of its purpose as a causeway for the mighty hunter to cross to the opposite palace, now represented by the mound of Hammam Ali-and of the histories and fate of the kings of a primitive race, still the favourite theme of the inhabitants of the plains of Shinar, when the last glow of twilight faded away, and I fell asleep as we glided onward to Buglidad.

The cuneiform character' referred to is the arrow-headed alphabet, or signs and characters, found on bricks, on cylinders, on the remains of ancient buildings, and on the smooth surfac s of rocks, from the Euphrates to the eastern boundary of Persia. Professor Grotofend deciphered certain names in these inscriptions, and his discovery has been followed up by Sir Henry Rawlinson, Dr. Hincks, and others, with distinguished success. Mr. Layard commenced his operations at Nimroud on a vast mound, 1800 feet long. 900 broad, and 60 or 70 feet high. On digging down into the rubbish, chambers of white marble were brought to light; then sculptures with cuneiform inscriptions, winged lions with human heads, sphinxes, bas-reliefs representing hunting-pieces and battle-scenes, with illustrations of domestic life. One discovery caused great consternation among the labourers.

Discovery of a Colossal Sculpture.

On the morning I rode to the encampment of Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman, and was returning to the mound, when I saw two Arabs of his tribe urging their mares to the top of their speed. On approaching me, they stopped. Hasten. O Bey,' exclaimed one of them-hasten to the diggers, for they have found Nimrod himself. Wallah, it is wonderful, but it is true! we have seen him with our eyes. There is no god but God and both joining in this pions exclamation, they galloped off, without further words, in the direction of their tents.

On reaching the ruins I descended into the new trench, and found the workmen, who had already seen me as I approached, standing near a heap of baskets and cloaks. Whilst Awad advanced and asked for a present to celebrate the occasion, the Arabs withdrew the screen they had hastily constructed, and disclosed an enor mons human head sculptured in full out of the alabaster of the country. They had uncovered the upper part of a figure, the remainder of which was still buried in the earth. I saw at once that the head must belong to a winged lion or bull, similar to those of Khorsabad and Persepolis. It was in admirable preservation. The expres sion was calm, yet majestic, and the outline of the features shewed a freedom and knowledge of art scarcely to be looked for in the works of so remote a period. The can had three horns, and, unlike that of the human-headed bulls hitherto found in Assyria, was rounded and without ornament at the top.

I was not surprised that the Arabs had been amazed and terrified at this apparition. It required no stretch of imagination to conjure up the most strange fancies. This gigantic head, blanched with age, thus rising from the bowels of the earth, might well have belonged to one of those fearful beings which are pictured in the traditions of the country as appearing to mortals, slowly ascending from the regions below. One of the workmen, on catching the first glimpse of the monster, had thrown down his basket and run off towards Mosul as fast as his legs could carry him. I learned this with regret, as I anticipated the consequences

Whilst I was superintending the removal of the earth, which still clung to the sculpture, and giving directions for the continuation of the work, a noise of horsemen was heard, and presently Abd-ur-rahman, followed by half his tribe appeared on the edge of the trench. As soon as the two Arabs had reached the tents, and published the wonders they had seen, every one mounted his mare and rode to the nound, to satisfy himself of the truth of these inconceivable reports. When they beheld the head, they all cried together: There is no god but God, and Mohammed

is his prophet!' It was some time before the sheikh could be prevailed upon to descend into the pit, and convince himself that the image he saw was of stone. This is not the work of men's hands,' exclaimed he, but of those infidel giants of whom the prophet-peace be with him!-bas said that they were higher than the tallest date-tree; this is one of the idols which Noah-peace be with him!-cursed before the flood. In this opinion, the result of a careful examination, all the by-standers concurred.

The semi-barbarism of the people caused frequent difficulties; but the traveller's tact, liberality, and courage overcame them all. In about twelve months, eight chambers were opened. Additional funds for prosecuting researches were obtained through the trustees of the British Museum, and ultimately twenty-eight halls and galler es were laid open, and the most valuable of the exhumed treasures transmitted to the British Museum. Mr. Layard afterwards commenced excavations at Kouyunjik, on the plain beyond the Tigris, opposite Mosul, and was there equally successful. In 1849, he undertook a second expedition, funds having been supplied (though with a niggardly hand) by the trustees of the Museum and the government. On this occasion, Mr. Layard extended his researches to Babylon and the confines of Persia, but the most valuable results were obtained in the field of his former labours, at Nimroud and Kouyunjik. The sculptures were of all kinds, one of the most remarkable being a figure of Dagon-a four-winged male divinity. There were representations of almost every mode of life-banquets, processions, sieges, forts, captives in fetters, criminals undergoing punishment, &c. The Assyrians appear to have been familiar with the most cruel barbarities-flaying alive, impaling, and torturing their prisoners. In the mechanical arts they were inferior to the Egyptians, and in moving those gigantic sculptures they had no motive-power but physical force-the captives, malefactors, and slaves being employed. The well-known emblems of Egyptian art appear on those Assyrian marbles, and Sir Gardiner Wilkinson considers this as disproving their early date. They are all, he concludes, within the date 1000 B.C., illustrating the periods of Shalmaneser and Sennacherib; and Mr. Layard is also of opinion that the Assyrian palaces he explored were built by Sennacherib, who came to the throne at the end of the seventh century before Christ. The mounds at Nimroud, Kouyunjik, and Khorasan would seem to be all parts of one vast city and capital-the Nineveh of Jonah, which was a three days' journey, and contained one hundred thousand children, or a population of half a million. The measurement of the space within the ruins gives an area almost identical with that assigned by the prophet.

The account of this second expedition was published by Mr. Layard in 1853, under the title of Discoveries in the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon.' He afterwards entered into public life, was a short time in 1852 Under-secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, and mem